CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques

News aggregator : April 2019

Our news aggregator is a service that automatically collects all current topics related to the cosmetics sector recently published on the Internet, all media combined.


04/10/2019 The Rise of G-Beauty

K-Beauty got us hooked on Korean BB Creams and jelly cleansers. J-Beauty convinced us of the benefits of Japanese essences and sake ingredients. Probably we were bound to grab our beauty passports and move on to another country. And so we did: Now there’s G-Beauty.

In the last few years, German beauty brands have begun to inhabit nearly every beauty aisle, including Whole Foods and high-end beauty retailers like Bluemercury.

But unlike, say, K-Beauty, which started as a concerted effort by the Korean government to market Korean brands abroad, G-Beauty is less about pushing novel routines than it is about making clean beauty – a confusing space with many conflicting definitions – more approachable.

“Our customers like that Germany beauty follows the European standards for clean, which automatically means they don’t include many toxins,” said Jessica Richards, the founder of the influential Brooklyn boutique Shen Beauty. German brands also tend to have fairly minimalist, straightforward packaging, which is a good thing in today’s noisy beauty aisles.

Cassandra Grey, the founder of Violet Grey, a luxury beauty retailer in Los Angeles, is even more emphatic. “Customers now look for the Made in Germany stamp on skin-care products the same way we look for the organic sticker on our tomatoes,” she said. The three top-selling skin-care lines at her shop are from Germany.

In German beauty, clean, efficacious skin care can mean taking a farm-based, organic approach, as is the case with Weleda, a natural skin-care pioneer with Swiss-German roots that was founded in 1921; and Dr. Hauschka, a natural skin care and cosmetics line that has been around since 1967. Both have had decades to build out their biodynamic farms, labs and manufacturing processes.

“We have a lot of control over our ingredients, which is key for a natural beauty brand,” said Rob Keen, the chief executive of Weleda North America. “You don’t know where some of these companies are getting their naturals from.”

Weleda is experiencing a resurgence in the United States and gaining a cultish following for its classic Skin Food moisturizer ($18.99), a staple for many top makeup artists and, InStyle reports, for Rihanna, Julia Roberts, Victoria Beckham and more.

Last year, sales in the United States were up 19 percent, Mr. Keen said. (According to the market researchers Spins and Nielsen, German natural personal-care brands are up 13 percent in the United States compared with 11 percent for all natural personal-care brands.)

And while the German government is not helping its companies market abroad, “the country truly does support biodynamic farming and this idea of sustainability,” said Martina Joseph, the chief executive of Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. “If you look across many different categories and businesses in Germany, it’s about quality and ingredient integrity.”

For the most demanding clientele, though, the exciting brands are the ones that offer not only clean formulations, but also new science. That includes such German skin-care darlings as Augustinus Bader, Dr. Barbara Sturm and Royal Fern.

Timm Golueke, the dermatologist in Munich who is behind Royal Fern, thinks of his line, which includes an ingredient patented from fern extract, as “marrying wellness with German engineering.”

He points out that German brands are particularly transparent. The packaging is clear, the ingredients are laid out simply, and claims are backed up with science (in his case, his patent and decades seeing patients as a dermatologist).

“The patients I see in London and in Germany, they want the same thing,” Dr. Golueke said. “They want skin care that works, but they also want things to be nontoxic. That’s what German brands are building trust in.”

As a retailer, Marla Beck, the co-founder and chief executive of Bluemercury, has bought in. “German beauty is known for science-backed, clean formulas that deliver highly effective results,” she said, noting her particular admiration for the Dr. Barbara Sturm Brightening Serum, which features cress sprouts extract as well as shimmer particles that give a glow. (Bluemercury is the largest retailer of the Dr. Barbara Sturm line in the United States.)

Ms. Beck also mentioned the high quality of the ingredients, especially important when customers are shelling out $310 for said brightening serum.

Barbara Sturm, an aesthetic medical doctor in Düsseldorf, became the talk of social media for creating custom-blended creams with blood drawn from the patient. She created her highly regarded line based on the philosophy of eliminating all damaging ingredients.

“Clean beauty, which I take to mean nontoxic, nonirritating and noninflammatory, is at the center of my approach to healing the skin,” Dr. Sturm said.

Then there is the professor and scientist Augustinus Bader, who founded his namesake skin-care line two years ago. According to the company, it closed out last year with $6 million in revenue with just two products (moisturizers called the Cream and the Rich Cream). In February the company appointed a new chief executive, Maureen Case, a veteran of Estée Lauder, and has plans to introduce a new product this summer.

Dr. Bader, who has serious science credentials in stem cell research, took years to develop the two products. He approached his formulas from an epigenetics point of view – that is, using ingredients to stimulate repair signals inside the body.

“The stem cells, they work, but they work too slowly,” Dr. Bader said. “I thought, ‘How can we use the body’s own repair mechanisms?’ We have some inner clock as our skin ages that shuts down the repair mechanisms. My idea here is you can jump-start skin healing with the right triggers.”

“It’s a different form of treatment,” he said.

A last thought from Dr. Sturm, who, for all of her momentum, cautioned that G-Beauty is a marketing concept and that nationality doesn’t tell you if a product is “clean.” “Skin care is not the Olympics,” she said.

Bee Shapiro - The New York Times
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04/10/2019 Industrial cannabis is booming in China

T plant has a storied history in China. It was probably twisted into the world’s first rope there around 2,800. In the West you find it in cigarette paper and Bible pages. In the East, it is woven into uniforms of the People’s Liberation Army (). Since its cooler sister, marijuana, became legal for recreational use in Canada and many American states last year, industrial-use hemp – a variety of cannabis that contains trivial amounts of weed’s mind-altering substance, – is flourishing in a country that until a few years ago banned its cultivation outright and where cannabis traffickers can face the death penalty.

China grows nearly half the world’s legal hemp. In 2018 sales, mostly of textile fibre made from the plant’s stalk, totalled $1.2bn. Now global demand for its seeds, leaves and flowers is surging. Packed with fulsome fatty acids, seeds go into snacks and oil. Leaves and flowers contain cannabidiol (), a non-intoxicating compound that reduces anxiety and inflammation. It is being added as a supplement to food, drinks and cosmetics across the West. In June America approved the first medicine, for epilepsy.

China’s first licence to extract went to Hanma Investment Group, owner of its largest hemp planter and processor, in January 2017. By next year, estimates New Frontier Data, a cannabis consultancy, Chinese sales of will more than quadruple to $228m. Investors are rushing into the field. A Chinese hemp index tracked since 2018 by Wind Information, a data provider, has more than doubled in value this year. Shares in Shanghai Shunho New Materials Technology, a packaging firm, rose threefold after it received a licence to plant hemp in south-western Yunnan, the first province to lift a national ban in 2010. Shineco, a biotech company whose market capitalisation on New York’s Nasdaq exchange has nearly doubled to $25m since it unveiled a hemp subsidiary last month, plans China’s largest industrial-cannabis project in frosty Heilongjiang.

That north-eastern province became the second to legalise hemp-growing in 2017, issuing a three-year plan to become the biggest cannabis base in the world by 2020. In its inaugural year, Heilongjiang harvested 30,000 hectares (74,000 acres) of hemp – nearly one-third the size of European and Canadian fields combined. Neighbouring Jilin province, too, will soon earn a licence.

Chinese growers are already setting their sights farther afield. In December America legalised industrial hemp nationwide for the first time since the second world war. Hanma ships more than half its domestic output there. Tan Xin, chairman of Hanma, says he will begin to grow and process hemp in Nevada later this year. American hemp has higher levels than China permits.

On March 27th the anti-drugs squad declared that China had never approved industrial cannabis as a medical or food additive; the hemp index briefly drooped. Mr Tan expects China’s government to tighten monitoring, while gradually allowing wider application of the plant’s by-products. Factories in China are also closely monitored with cameras and workers are subjected to daily urine tests. But Hanma has teamed up with the to develop a -based drug to treat post-traumatic stress. That will be the next chapter in the plant’s long history in China. During the long years of the hemp ban Yunnan’s ethnic minorities continued in secret to harvest leaves, stalks and seeds. Today they can earn farmers 50,000 yuan ($7,400) per hectare, at least twice as much as corn.

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04/10/2019 Gradually, nervously, courts are granting rights to animals

H one of seven Asian elephant calves captured, probably from the same herd, in Thailand in the early 1970s. Named after Disney’s seven dwarves, they were shipped to America and sold to circuses and zoos. Happy and Grumpy ended up in the Bronx zoo, where they lived in an enclosure for 25 years. In 2002 they were transferred to a larger enclosure with a second pair of pachyderms, Patty and Maxine. Their new environment was a little closer to the wild one, in which elephants form large families. But Patty and Maxine charged at Grumpy, injuring her. Unable to walk and with suppurating wounds, Grumpy was euthanised.

Happy was then paired with a younger female elephant, Sammy. She died of kidney failure in 2006. But meanwhile Happy had become a scientific celebrity. In 2005 she became the first elephant to pass the “mirror self-recognition test”, an indicator of self-consciousness. Scientists painted a white cross over her left eye, and led her to a large mirror. Happy repeatedly touched the marking with her trunk, showing that she recognised herself. Most animals (and human infants) cannot do this.

Now Happy is stretching the limits of people’s understanding of animals once again. On December 14th a court in New York state heard a request to grant her a writ of habeas corpus. Steven Wise, a lawyer, argued that, as an intelligent, self-aware being, Happy is entitled to the full protection of the law. Habeas corpus, an ancient common-law principle, guards against arbitrary imprisonment.

So far, all applications for habeas corpus relief for animals have been turned down in American and European courts. However, in a case in May 2018 involving Tommy, a chimpanzee, one of the judges said he thought the main argument for denying habeas corpus to chimps was wrong. This is that they lack the capacity to carry out legal duties or be held accountable for their actions. As the judge pointed out, “the same is true for human infants and comatose human adults, yet no one would suppose it is improper to seek a writ of habeas corpus on behalf of one’s infant child.” Happy’s case is likely to drag on for a while. When it is resolved, it could fundamentally alter the way some animals – especially great apes – are treated in law.

Over the past few decades, the science of animal cognition has changed people’s understanding of other species. In several, researchers have discovered emotions, intelligence and behaviour once thought to belong exclusively to humans. But the law has changed slowly, and in one respect barely at all. Most legal systems treat the subjects of law as either people or property. There is no third category. Legal persons possess rights – guaranteed protections. Property does not. Because domesticated animals are economic assets, the law has always regarded animals as property.

Some lawyers and animal-rights advocates say the time has come to change that, arguing that it is justified both by science and by rising concerns about animal welfare. Opponents reply that to give animals rights would not only be unprecedented but, by erasing distinctions between them and people, would undermine something fundamental to being human.

For years, people seeking to improve the lives of animals have sponsored animal-welfare laws. In November, voters in California passed a ballot initiative (a referendum) that requires larger minimum spaces for caged farm animals. In the past decade the European Union, India, Colombia, Taiwan, seven Brazilian states and California have all banned the testing of cosmetics on animals. New York and Illinois banned circus elephants, while voters in Florida banned greyhound racing.

Recently, animal advocates have tried to push existing welfare laws into new areas. In Iowa, the Animal Legal Defence Fund sued a private zoo for infringing the Endangered Species Act, which protects wild animals. It won, and the Department of Agriculture revoked the zoo’s licence. The same organisation, arguing that Oregon law permits victims of violence to sue for redress, filed suit for damages on behalf of an eight-year-old racehorse, Justice, who had been found severely frostbitten and malnourished and whose owner had been convicted of neglect. The suit was denied but is the subject of an appeal.

At least eight jurisdictions have written into law that animals are sentient beings, including the (in one of its foundational documents, the Lisbon treaty) and New Zealand. These “sentience laws” have had surprisingly little impact. No cases have been brought in New Zealand, for example, which amended its animal-welfare act to say animals are sentient in 2017. But three American states have passed pet custody laws which give the idea of sentience practical meaning. These laws say that if a couple divorces and cannot agree on the terms of separation, the interests and feelings of any animals in the household must be taken into account. Animals are thus treated more like children than furniture.

To some animal advocates, expanding existing welfare laws or writing new ones does not go far enough. They argue that such laws fail to protect animals from captivity and that some highly intelligent species, such as great apes and elephants, should not be treated as property at all, but as beings with rights.

Animals have appeared in court before. At Clermont in France, a pig was tried and convicted of killing and eating the baby of Jehan and Gillon Lenfant on Easter Day, 1494. It was executed by strangulation. At Autun, in the early 16th century, Bartholomew Chassenée defended rats against a charge of destroying the barley harvest. He persuaded an ecclesiastical court that, since it would be dangerous for the rats to travel to court, they could legally ignore the summons. What has changed is that animals are plaintiffs, not the accused, and lawyers are demanding they be granted the status of legal persons.

That idea is not quite as far-fetched as it might sound. A legal person does not have to be human. Companies have long been legal persons, able to act in court in their own right. In 2017 New Zealand granted legal personhood to the Whanganui river, in order to boost the power of local Maoris to protect it. In the same year, the High Court of the Indian state of Uttarakhand gave legal personhood to the Ganges and Yamuna rivers in its territory, though this ruling was reversed by India’s Supreme Court.

Activists have tried to give animals protection under ordinary laws, not just animal-welfare rules. People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (), an activist group, sued a photographer, David Slater, who had been taking pictures of wild macaques. One day, the macaques used his camera to take selfies (see picture) which Mr Slater published. sued in America’s federal courts, saying Mr Slater had infringed the monkeys’ copyright. The suit was kicked out, with the judge opining: “I am not the person to weigh in on this. This is an issue for Congress and the president.”

Other cases have got further. India’s environment ministry said in 2013 that cetaceans (a group that includes dolphins and whales) were “non-human persons” with “their own specific rights”. The ministry told state governments to reject any request to keep cetaceans for entertainment.

The following year, India’s Supreme Court ruled that all animals have an inherent right to life under the constitution, though they can still be property. The case concerned a custom called jallikattu in which men tame young bulls, often by mutilating them. The court ruled that “every species has a right to life and security [and] that, in our view,”life" means something more than mere survival…or instrumental value for human beings." Still, the court said it was up to parliament to write laws safeguarding those rights and it did not change animals’ status as property.

The boldest legal challenge has come from attempts to give animals habeas corpus rights. In 2005 animal-rights organisations in Brazil applied for habeas corpus protection for Suiça, a chimpanzee in a zoo. She was found dead in her cage before the court could rule. In 2007 Austrian activists applied to make one of their number the legal guardian of Hiasl, a chimpanzee who had been released from a pharmaceutical laboratory. The case ended in the European Court of Human Rights, which rejected the application.

Reversals have been frequent. In 2015 a court in New York issued a writ of habeas corpus on behalf of two chimpanzees, Hercules and Leo, but the judge changed her mind the next day, deleting the reference to habeas corpus. Another New York court threw out similar applications for Tommy and Kiko, two more chimps.

In the past few years, however, animal-rights lawyers have started to win cases. In 2014 the criminal appeals court of Argentina said Sandra, an orangutan in the Buenos Aires zoo, was a non-human person – though the court has jurisdiction only over animal-cruelty cases, so this was a ruling on welfare, not habeas corpus. The biggest victory came in 2016, when a judge in Mendoza, also in Argentina, ruled that Cecilia, a chimpanzee, was a non-human person who had been arbitrarily deprived of her freedom by being placed in the city’s zoo. He ordered her to be taken to a sanctuary in Brazil, where she remains. It was the first ruling of its kind. It was followed in 2017 when Colombia’s Supreme Court ruled that Chucho, a spectacled bear, was a non-human person and ordered him to be taken from Barranquilla zoo to a wildlife reserve.

But so far, except in South America, objections to animal legal rights have carried the day. These are: that it is unclear which species should get protection and which rights they should get; that giving great apes rights could hamper medical research; that giving some animals limited rights might open the door to giving farm animals a right not to be eaten; and that, if consciousness and cognition give rise to rights, they would apply to artificially intelligent machines, too.

The upshot is that “the law is a patchwork,” says Kristen Stilt, who teaches animal law at Harvard Law School. Animals still lack rights, but the bright line separating them from people has been dulled by sentience laws and rulings in India, Argentina and Colombia. As the judge in Tommy’s case said, “the question will have to be addressed eventually…Should such a being be treated as a person or as property, in essence a thing?” Meanwhile, Happy awaits the result of her day in court in solitary confinement, an unnatural state for an elephant. She is, when all is said and done, just somebody’s property.

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04/10/2019 Botox bars are coming to a city near you

“Y change someone’s life with a bit of lip,” says Dr Alexander Blinski, the co-founder and chief medical officer of Plump Cosmetics and Injectables, a beauty salon in New York. His practice, which feels more like a cross between a cupcake shop and a SoulCycle studio than a place where people willingly go to let needles full of neurotoxins gently paralyse the muscles in their faces, is one of a growing number of establishments in America aimed at making injectable cosmetic treatments seem less clinical.

“West Coast Lips” are a favourite. With 20% more volume than “East Coast Lips”, they are fuller and appear more enhanced than the subtle, work-with-what-you’ve-got plump of their east-coast cousin, which is more rosebud than rhododendron. “Instaready Cheeks” are another popular treatment among those who want a more influencer-worthy contour to their jowls. They are achieved with a dose of an injectable filler and cost just over $1,000. More modestly priced treatments include the “Goodbye Gummy Smile”, which restrains the muscles in the upper lip, and is for those who want to flash more white in their posts. A $2,000 treatment helps those who wish to minimise their underarm sweat production in ways that the humble antiperspirant has yet to master.

Celebrities like the Kardashians, Bella Hadid and the Real Housewives are credited with the mainstreaming of injectables, which are the most common minimally invasive cosmetic procedure performed, according to data from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. Clients are mostly millennials in search of a plumper pout, but also include daughters who bring their mothers, wives who bring their husbands, Wall Street bankers keen to banish an angry-looking furrowed brow or drag queens in search of more dramatic cheeks.

“I liked that the filler was natural-looking – I didn’t want to look like a balloon or like I lived in Los Angeles,” says Richelle Oslinker, a patient of Dr Blinski’s. Nate Storey, a magazine editor, decided to get a few shots around his 30th birthday. He did so because his preferred hairstyle – a man bun – gave him no place to hide the wrinkles creeping across his forehead.

Although nearly 10m of these procedures were performed in America in 2017, there is reason to approach them with prudence. The main ingredient in Botox, which is generally used in the upper third of the face, is derived from the substance that causes botulism. The two most common injectables are Botulinum Toxin Type (commonly marketed as Botox) and soft-tissue fillers.

Botox is often referred to as the “gateway drug” to soft-tissue fillers, which are generally used in the lower two-thirds of the face. Many are made from naturally occurring substances like hyaluronic acid – which is found in the human body, especially in the fluid around the eyes and joints – but they can have serious side-effects. If accidentally injected into a blood vessel, for instance, they can cause tissue death, permanent blindness or a stroke.

Botox generated $3.2bn in worldwide sales in 2017, which were buoyed by a multimillion-dollar marketing campaign starring a retired American football player, Deion Sanders. This was an attempt to increase its use among men, who are estimated to make up 15% of the cosmetic injectable market. Revenue from the neurotoxin is expected to reach $4.5bn by 2024. Plump, one of the biggest users of Botox in America by volume, has recently opened its second injectables bar in New York City, with plans to expand to Miami.

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04/10/2019 Les " nouvelles routes de la soie "… ou de la contrefaçon ?

Tribune. La Chine s’est donc lancée à la conquête du monde par la construction d’un réseau d’infrastructures terrestres, ferroviaires et maritimes visant à la rattacher à l’Europe et à l’Afrique par de nouvelles routes commerciales. Un projet titanesque, lancé en 2013 et estimé à plus de 1 000 milliards de dollars.

Il peut toutefois être pertinent de mettre en parallèle l’impact qu’aura inévitablement cette initiative sur les entreprises françaises avec les chiffres de la contrefaçon publiés le 18 mars dans un rapport conjoint de l’Organisation de coopération et de développement économiques (OCDE) et de l’Office de l’Union européenne pour la propriété intellectuelle (EUIPO), " Trends in Trade in Counterfeit and Pirated Goods ".

Le commerce de produits contrefaits représentait, en 2016, près de 450 milliards d’euros dans le monde, soit 3,3 % des échanges mondiaux. Des chiffres particulièrement alarmants car ils ne prennent en considération ni les contrefaçons produites et consommées à l’intérieur d’un pays, ni celles distribués via Internet.

La France figure parmi les principales victimes de la contrefaçon, juste derrière les Etats-Unis, puisqu’en 2016, 17 % des produits de contrefaçon saisis usurpaient des marques ou des brevets français.

Les auteurs du rapport ont analysé les données provenant de près d’un demi-million de saisies douanières réalisées dans le monde entre 2014 et 2016, afin d’établir l’estimation la plus rigoureuse à ce jour de l’ampleur du commerce de faux produits à l’échelle mondiale.

Il en ressort que la contrefaçon concerne tous types de produits, que cela soit des chaussures, des sacs à main, des cosmétiques, des parfums, ou encore des pièces de machine et des produits chimiques.

Or, la majorité des produits " contrefaisants " saisis lors de contrôles douaniers proviennent de Chine - les Emirats arabes unis, la Turquie, Singapour, la Thaïlande et l’Inde étant les autres principaux lieux de provenance.

Les nouvelles routes de la soie ouvrent la voie à des atteintes potentiellement localisées, non plus dans un seul pays, mais dans plusieurs pays dans lesquels les produits contrefaits peuvent transiter, être stockés, commercialisés.

Le rempart le plus évident est bien sûr l’information des consommateurs, car les produits issus de la contrefaçon, outre leur impact économique, présentent des risques pour la santé et la sécurité des consommateurs.

Maureen Theillet - Le Monde.fr
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04/10/2019 ASOS affiche son optimisme et bondit

(AOF) - Asos bondit de 14,79% à 3670 pence après avoir maintenu ses prévisions pour l’ensemble de l’exercice 2019, malgré une baisse de son bénéfice avant impôts au premier semestre. Celui-ci a chuté de 87% à 4 millions de livre sterlings. Quant au chiffre d’affaires de l’entreprise britannique de commerce en ligne de vêtements et cosmétiques, il a progressé de 14% et atteint 1,31 milliard de livres sterling. “Asos est capable de bien plus”, a commenté Neck Beighton, CEO du groupe, optimiste en l’avenir.

“Nous approchons de la fin d’un important programme d’investissements. Bien que cela ait inévitablement entraîné d’importantes perturbations et des coûts de transition, la capacité mondiale qu’elle nous procure aujourd’hui nous donne une confiance accrue dans notre capacité à continuer à gagner des parts de marché tout en restaurant notre rentabilité et en accélérant la génération de cash flow libre”, a ajouté Neck Beighton.

Alors que le marché mondial de la mode en ligne est en pleine croissance, Asos dispose désormais d’une plate-forme technique, d’une infrastructure, d’une “discussion constante” avec sa clientèle.

" Nous pensons qu’en fin de compte, il n’y aura qu’une poignée d’entreprises d’envergure véritablement mondiale sur ce marché. Nous sommes déterminés à ce que ASOS soit l’une d’entre-elles", a-t-il conclu.

Le succès du commerce en ligne ne se dément pas en France, porté par le développement du nombre d’acheteurs et de sites marchands. En 2018, le chiffre d’affaires devrait atteindre 93 milliards d’euros (contre 81,7 milliards en 2017), selon la fédération du e-commerce et de la vente à distance (Fevad). Le digital est d’ailleurs la priorité de deux distributeurs de jouets, Toys “R” Us France, racheté par Jellej Jouets et Ludendo (La Grande Récré), repris par son PDG avec la Financière Immobilière Bordelaise. Une refonte globale du modèle économique de ces enseignes est nécessaire. Elles sont concurrencées à la fois par les chaînes d’hypermarchés et les géants de l’e-commerce. Il est nécessaire de créer du trafic dans les magasins et de désaisonnaliser l’activité. Créer des espaces de jeu est une des solutions envisagées.

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04/10/2019 " Brexit ", une marque qui fait vendre?

Fromage Brexit, bière Brexit, biscuits Brexit… Dès 2016, plusieurs entreprises britanniques ont déposé la marque “Brexit”. Même en France, une poignée d’entreprises ont fait preuve du même opportunisme. Mais toutes n’exploitent pas réellement la marque.

Couronné “Mot de l’année 2016” par le dictionnaire anglais Collins, le terme “Brexit” s’est progressivement fait une place dans le langage courant. Contraction de “British” et de “Exit”, ce néologisme a été employé dès 2013 outre-Manche pour désigner la sortie du Royaume-Uni de l’Union européenne avant de gagner en popularité en Europe à l’approche du référendum de 2016.

A tel point que certaines entreprises ont vite vu dans ce mot-valise une opportunité pour développer leur activité. Dès après le scrutin, les organes régissant les droits de propriété intellectuelle ont reçu de nombreuses demandes d’entreprises désireuses d’exploiter le potentiel commercial de cette marque.

Un premier refus de l’EUIPO

Mais leur demande fut loin d’être aussi aisée qu’elles l’avaient imaginé. En juillet 2016, deux entrepreneurs polonais installés à Manchester se tournent vers l’Office de l’Union européenne pour la propriété intellectuelle (EUIPO). Eux veulent carrément baptiser leur entreprise “Brexit Drinks Ltd”. Leur but: produire une boisson énergisante sous la même appellation. L’examinateur de l’agence européenne se prononce d’abord contre l’enregistrement d’une telle marque, estimant que le terme “Brexit” était à la fois “descriptif et offensant”. Comme le rappelle Mondaq, site spécialisé dans le conseil aux entreprises, l’agence européenne estime que cela “pourrait être perçu comme un slogan en faveur de la sortie des Britanniques de l’UE et non comme une indication d’origine relative aux produits faisant l’objet de la demande”. L’examinateur juge même que la marque pourrait paraître offensante, en particulier aux yeux des 48% de Britanniques qui ont voté contre le Brexit.

Cet argument sera rejeté quelques mois plus tard par la commission d’appel de l’EUIPO qui valide le dépôt de la marque pour les classes 5, 32 et 34, lesquelles regroupent notamment les boissons énergisantes, les compléments alimentaires, les bières et les cigarettes. “Certes, c’est un sujet litigieux et polémique. Cependant, lorsqu’il est décliné sous forme de marque désignant des cigarettes électroniques, de la bière ou des jus de fruits, l’humour prend le pas sur le message politique et fortement controversé du terme ‘BREXIT’”, finit par admettre l’EUIPO.

Peu de temps après, la boisson énergisante du Brexit est lancée. “Les gens nous demandent si c’est une déclaration politique […]. Non, nous pensons simplement que c’est un bon nom pour un produit”, arguait l’un des fondateurs de la marque.

Thé, fromage, alcool…

Cette décision de l’EUIPO ouvre la voie à d’autres entreprises qui, à leur tour, se hâtent de déposer la marque “Brexit” dans leur secteur d’activité. Et on voit très vite apparaître outre-Manche, des produits -notamment alimentaires- sous cette dénomination.

Une vingtaine de dépôts ont ainsi été enregistrées auprès de l’Office de la propriété intellectuelle (IPO) outre-Manche, sans compter celles qui ont été refusées. Toujours dans les boissons, la “Brexit Beverages Company” a vendu sur Amazon la “Brexit Premium Lager”, une bière blonde à déguster pour “célébrer l’Article 50”.

Les entreprises déterminées à tirer profit de l’événement ont également lancé l’“English Brexit Tea”, les biscuits “Brexit”, le fromage “Brexit blue”, la “Brexitovka” (vodka du Brexit) ou encore la “Brexit Box”, pour survivre 30 jours après la sortie de l’UE… La marque “Brexit the Musical” a quant à elle été déposée pour le titre d’une comédie musicale.

Opportunités

Les États-Unis n’ont pas été épargnés. Une société basée au Colorado a déposé la marque “Brexit” dans le but de l’attribuer à des compléments alimentaires. La Boston Beer Company a elle aussi déposé ce nom au lendemain du référendum. Elle comptait l’utiliser pour mettre en avant son cidre mais le produit n’a pas encore été commercialisé.

Il faut dire que de nombreuses entreprises déposent la marque par anticipation plus que pour respecter une quelconque stratégie marketing. Certaines n’ont d’ailleurs pas de projet clair au moment de l’enregistrement mais préfèrent assurer leurs arrières, au cas où l’opportunité se présenterait… Parfois il s’agit simplement d’empêcher un concurrent d’utiliser la marque à son compte. Au final, il n’est pas rare de voir des sociétés déposer des marques sans jamais les exploiter.

Brexit made in France

En France, moins de dix entreprises ou personnes physiques ont fait la démarche d’enregistrer la marque “Brexit” auprès de l’Institut national de la propriété intellectuelle (INPI). Et parmi elles, une minorité ont tenté le coup. Depuis l’an dernier, Thibaut sillonne les routes de Bordeaux et ses alentours avec son “Brexit bus”, un bus rouge à étage typiquement anglais faisant office de food truck.

“On a choisi ce nom pour le parallèle évident avec le bus anglais et c’était clairement une volonté de faire un clin d’œil à cet événement”, précise Thibaut qui réfute cependant toute connotation politique: “Je suis très européen […] et je suis triste de les (les Britanniques, ndlr) voir partir. C’est plus de la dérision, de la taquinerie”.

“Immature, écologique et responsable”, le “Brexit bus” de l’entrepreneur bordelais joue la carte de l’humour et “neuf clients et demi sur dix” comprennent qu’il s’agit du second degré, assure-t-il. Même si “une fois de temps en temps, on tombe sur un Anglais qui ne trouve pas ça très drôle”.

Il reconnaît néanmoins avoir hésité sur l’utilisation du terme “Brexit” et l’image politique qu’il renvoie: “C’était une grosse question au début”, se rappelle-t-il. Et d’ajouter: “Aujourd’hui même, quelqu’un est venu me poser la question. Il m’a demandé si c’était une manifestation en faveur du Brexit, si on militait pour…”. Le temps d’expliquer rapidement le concept du food truck, basé sur une énergie propre et un système “zéro déchets” et les clients les plus dubitatifs comprennent que le nom de l’entreprise n’est qu’une façade teintée d’ironie.

Le prestigieux groupe français de cosmétique Sothys a lui aussi déposé la marque “Brexit” en 2017. Contactée, l’entreprise indique que l’initiative a été prise par l’ancien PDG Bernard Mas, père de l’actuel patron Christian Mas. Mais la marque n’ finalement jamais été exploitée.

Paul Louis - BFMTV
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04/09/2019 Alaena, les crèmes protectrices venues de Biarritz

Alertée par la recrudescence de cancers, une dermatologue basque a lancé une marque de soins 100 % naturels, devenue une référence de la beauté “clean” en France.

À l’heure où les Français achètent leurs premières crèmes solaires, une question revient: ces formules sont-elles nocives pour les océans? L’an dernier, l’État d’Hawaï décidait d’interdire dans ses lagons les produits bronzants à base d’oxybenzone ou d’octinoxate, mais une batterie d’études a tenté récemment de relativiser l’impact des cosmétiques sur l’écosystème marin au regard du réchauffement des eaux et des ravages de la pêche électrique.

À Biarritz, peu importe, on reste concernés. Quand elle crée un soin protecteur, Sylvie Peres, fondatrice de la petite marque à succès Alaena, la débarrasse de toutes nanoparticules. Depuis quinze ans, elle milite à la fois contre les pollutions des mers issues de la mauvaise gestion des eaux usées et de la surconsommation des détergents (qu’elle dénonce fréquemment auprès des mairies du littoral atlantique) et pour une cosmétique “clean”. “En déchiffrant les ingrédients des listes INCI contenus dans les crèmes que je prescrivais, j’avais noté la présence de CRM (cancérogène, mutagène et reprotoxique, toxique à la reproduction), raconte la dermatologue basque. À l’époque, je n’achetais que des aliments bio mais je conseillais à mes patients des onguents contenant des perturbateurs endocriniens et des cancérigènes, ce qui n’avait pas de sens.” Nous sommes en mai 2004, un groupe de scientifiques et d’écologistes de haute volée vient de se réunir à l’Unesco pour le colloque “Cancer, environnement et société”, concluant que le développement de nombreuses maladies est consécutif à la dégradation de l’environnement.

Sylvie Peres se tourne vers les bonnes recettes d’antan et fait réaliser en pharmacie des préparations magistrales dont elle contrôle entièrement la traçabilité. Ces formules sont très efficaces sur les pathologies des patientes, mais elles manquent de glamour dans le packaging et les textures. L’idée de concevoir une marque de cosméceutiques germe en 2015 quand Anne, sa fille aînée ingénieure, ouvre le spa Alaena à Biarritz avec son père, chirurgien esthétique. Dans l’offre proposée, il manque une ligne bio aux formules concentrées en actifs, approuvées par le milieu médical. “J’ai commencé par éliminer tous les ingrédients de”remplissage“, peu coûteux mais qui ne servent pas à grand-chose, et sans lesquels on peut quand même obtenir des textures agréables”, dit-elle. Dans sa liste noire de suspects: les acrylates, des épaississants supposés être cancérigènes, neurotoxiques et reprotoxiques ; le phénoxyéthanol, un conservateur ayant remplacé les parabens ; le sodium laureth sulfate, un détergent jugé irritant pour la peau.

Lancées fin 2017, fabriquées dans un laboratoire du Sud-Ouest, ses 14 références pour le visage et le corps promettent plus de 50 % de principes actifs (contre environ 20 % habituellement) issus de la biotechnologie, d’huiles végétales biologiques, de conservateurs naturels et d’un actif breveté élaboré à partir de graines germées. La germination permet en effet d’augmenter le taux de vitamines et des acides aminés favorisant la production de collagène. Dernière-née de la gamme, la Crème Réparatrice offre des résultats spectaculaires sur les eczémas et calme les peaux les plus sensibles après une exposition au soleil. Les packagings sont recyclables et les produits certifiés Ecocert Cosmos, le label bio européen. Vendues dans les spas, dont le George-V à Paris, elles font la fierté des Biarrots comme le bonheur des Français férus de minimalisme cosmétique.

Astrid Cazenave - Le Figaro.fr
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04/09/2019 Le spécialiste du vrac Day by day passe la vitesse supérieure

web-vrac.jpgL’enseigne compte aujourd’hui 48 magasins, contre 34 à la même époque l’an dernier.

Chez Day by day, les demandes de franchise se bousculent. Plus d’une centaine arrive chaque mois. Le créneau du vrac est porteur et l’enseigne, qui s’est lancée dès 2013, s’est dotée d’une forte identité. Les candidatures sont soigneusement triées sur le volet. Mais le nombre de magasins grossit vite. Il en existe aujourd’hui 48, contre 34 à la même époque l’an dernier. De quinze à vingt supplémentaires sont prévus d’ici à la fin de l’année.

L’enseigne a de fortes ambitions. Les 7 millions d’euros levés en février par sa maison mère My Retail Box auprès d’Amundi, via son fonds d’épargne à impact social et solidaire, devraient l’aider à monter en puissance. " Le vrac a connu un premier coup d’accélérateur en France au moment de la Cop21. Depuis six à huit mois, nous en constatons un second ", relève le président de My Retail Box, Didier Onraita. Avec une forte implication des moins de 35 ans. Ils sont deux fois plus représentés parmi les clients que dans la population globale.

L’offre s’élargit avec l’arrivée de pâtes à tartiner ou de spiritueux ce qui permet, par exemple, de n’acheter que la quantité de rhum nécessaire pour faire des crêpes. Parmi les derniers produits arrivés dans certaines boutiques figurent les crèmes cosmétiques, dont on dose la quantité, avec la start-up CoZie . " A travers des développements technologiques, on peut explorer de nouveaux segments ", se félicite le dirigeant.

Le distributeur a fait de la traçabilité et de l’information des consommateurs l’un de ses piliers. En magasin, il met l’accent sur l’étiquetage en allant plus loin que la réglementation, donnant le pays précis d’origine, détaillant la composition. Des informations que le consommateur retrouve à la maison sur Internet à défaut de pouvoir le lire sur un emballage. Il commence aussi à y trouver des vidéos présentant les fournisseurs.

Si Day by day vise les centres-villes de plus de 50.000 habitants, My Retail Box, qui table sur un chiffre d’affaires consolidé en 2019 de 33 à 35 millions d’euros, soit une croissance de plus de 65 % par rapport à 2018, déploie des solutions pour des communes plus petites. A La Pesée repose ainsi sur une quinzaine de familles de produits pour des supérettes familiales dans des villes de moins de 10.000 habitants. Poids et Mesure, un " shop-in-shop " pour les zones urbaines entre les deux, est déjà installé en Vendée dans des magasins de primeurs.

Déjà leader européen du vrac dans un univers éclaté, le groupe n’est pour l’instant présent, hors de France, qu’en Belgique et au Luxembourg. Mais il compte aller assez vite aux Pays-Bas puis, dans deux ans, en Allemagne avant de s’attaquer un peu plus tard au Canada.

Clotilde Briard - LesEchos.fr
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04/08/2019 Details Count For Successful On-Target Branding

Think about the many products you buy and the brands that market to you as a consumer. From aspirin to automobiles, bath soap to beer, candy bars to cosmetics, each of us has a least a few favorite brands that are go-to choices in a particular category we purchase. But how and why did those brands become our favorites?

The answer is not only that they deliver benefits we care about. It’s also that they’ve found ways to communicate those benefits effectively and to reinforce them in our actual experience.

For example, as a friend in consumer packaged goods has shared with me, if the speckles in a box of detergent are made with (inert) blue paint, more consumers believe the wash comes out whiter. Change the colored specks to green, and more believe the wash smells fresher. Those little specks are signals to reinforce a brand’s core promise.

First, of course, my friend’s company had to decide which segment of the market they were pursuing. Imagine a pie chart that depicts the primary interest of various consumers in the detergent business: What product attributes does each group most care about? The answer is more complex than just whiteness versus brightness. Some consumers love to see high-suds detergents in action, for example. When they peek into the wash and see lots of bubbles, they enjoy feeling that their clothes are being cleaned with diligence. Other consumers prefer low-suds products, believing that they’re better and safer for the planet’s ecology.

On-target branding must start with defining the target market and the primary benefits most prized by that particular segment. Every aspect of the brand should reinforce the fulfillment of its core promise, helping the product hit a communications bullseye that is relevant and meaningful to the intended purchaser.

Obviously, then, the name of a product that promises brightness should feel quite different from one that pledges freshness. The design of the packaging must support that choice, from the wording and look of text to the appearance of a sales brochure, advertising to prospects and so on. The more each detail is aligned, the more you’ll have a little army of product elements that all march together for maximum impact on your desired buyer.

Even after purchase when the product is being used, those built-in signals (like the specks) reinforce the delivery of whatever has been promised. The more congruent these elements are, the more you’ll avoid what psychologists call “cognitive dissonance” – the kind of inconsistency that would occur, for example, if the colors and font of your logo didn’t support a single overall message.

It’s easy to note the impact of color. One of the most famously successful examples of branding in the world is Coca-Cola. You won’t find its specific red on any standard Pantone color chart that designers and manufacturers use in creating the looks of their products and messaging. But since 1948, Coca-Cola red has been the globally known symbol of what’s still the No. 1 best-selling soft drink in the world.

Branding signals like logo colors for individual brands can even become communicators for entire categories. Have you noticed how widely shades of red and yellow are used across the fast food industry? McDonald’s, Burger King, Johnny Rockets, Wendy’s and Pizza Hut all use red and yellow. Some say red and yellow represent ketchup and mustard. Others point to those colors as being happy and celebratory. Makes for a pretty good mood to be in for lunch or dinner, wouldn’t you say?

None of these choices are haphazard. The color blue is perceived as a symbol of security and trust. Fully a third of the world’s top 100 brands use the blue in their logos. Think Volkswagen, IBM, Walmart and GE. All are brands with an active stake in consumer trust.

Other research has shown the importance of not just choosing your branding colors carefully, but sticking with them over time for the sake of brand recognition. Next, consider the ways the shape of a logo or an element within it can affect our perception of a brand. Some symbols are universal. The symbolic heart, for example, is documented as representing love and caring for centuries. The five-pointed star goes back even further. These are icons which retain branding relevance today, from hearts for Valentine’s Day merchandise to five-star reviews for movies and restaurants.

The point is, nothing, no element of a design, is too small to be carefully considered. And again, consistency matters. One global brand I admire in this regard is Heineken. No matter where in the world you see this brand and no matter how its design has evolved since 1864, you’ll always see a five-pointed star worked into the brand’s design. According to Heineken, brewers have used this symbol since the Middle Ages to symbolize the water, barley, hops and yeast used to make beer, along with a fifth element that represents “the magic of brewing.”

The bottom line is this: when it comes to branding your product or service, no choice should be arbitrary. Don’t jump into the water with immediate decisions on the color, shape and font of your logo, or the marketing tagline you might use to define your brand in a pithy, memorable way.

Instead, begin with the marketing pie chart I mentioned. What segment are you pursuing? Only after that crucial definition of your brand’s targeted market – and assuming you can deliver on what you promise – should you choose the expressions of branding (text, color, imagery, sounds, etc.) that support and reinforce the core identity you’ve decided to stand for.

John McDonnell - Forbes
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