CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques

News aggregator

Our news aggregator is a service that automatically collects all current topics related to the cosmetics sector recently published on the Internet, all media combined.


03/22/2019 Le Briochin surfe sur le made in France

Petit poucet face aux géants mondiaux des produits ménagers, l’entreprise Le Briochin trace son sillon en misant depuis son origine sur ses productions toutes françaises. L’huile de lin qu’elle utilise pour son savon noir est produite dans le nord de la France, ses bidons sont fabriqués en Normandie et ses étiquettes à Lorient.

Ses choix lui réussissent, puisque la société familiale dirigée et contrôlée par Philippe Allio a réalisé l’an dernier un chiffre d’affaires de 23,5 millions d’euros, en croissance de 13 %. Pour poursuivre sur sa lancée, le P-DG - également propriétaire de la marque Harris spécialisée dans les allume-feu naturels -, se diversifie. A l’occasion du centenaire du Briochin, il annonce le lancement, en septembre, de 1919 Bains de mer, sa nouvelle marque de cosmétiques bio.

Fabriqués à base d’eau de mer, la dizaine de produits, notamment du gel douche, va être mise en vente dans les instituts de beauté, les enseignes de parapharmacie et les parfumeries.

Les compositions du Briochin sont fabriquées dans l’usine que possède la société à Quintin (Côtes d’Armor) où l’industriel a investi l’an dernier 4,5 millions d’euros pour moderniser ses lignes.

Bouteilles en verre

C’est en bidons - 9 millions par an - que Le Briochin conditionne la plupart de ses produits ménagers liquides. Pour répondre aux attentes des consommateurs, le dirigeant a prévu, sans pour autant abandonner les contenants en plastique, de progressivement proposer des bouteilles en verre aux enseignes de la grande distribution et aux magasins de bricolage formant l’essentiel de sa clientèle.

Composée d’une équipe de 60 personnes, Le Briochin s’intéresse à l’international. " Des distributeurs d’une quinzaine de pays passent commande, nous avons professionnalisé notre outil afin de respecter leurs exigences réglementaires ", indique Philippe Allio.

Ce spécialiste du vintage fait feu de tout bois. Son service de R & D a remis au goût du jour une lessive en poudre naturelle qui va prochainement être proposée aux enseignes. Petite cerise sur le gâteau, chaque paquet contiendra un petit cadeau… Comme c’était autrefois le cas pour la marque Bonux !

Effectif : 60 salariés

Chiffre d’affaires : 23,5 millions

Activité : chimie

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03/22/2019 Comment bien choisir ses lingettes pour bébé?

Lucile a toujours fait un usage modéré des lingettes pour ses deux enfants. Pour nettoyer le siège de Tara, 3 mois, et d’Oscar, 3 ans et demi, cette maman privilégie les carrés de coton, avec du liniment, un mélange d’eau de chaux et d’huile d’olive: “J’ai essayé des lingettes lorsqu’il avait un an, ça a été une catastrophe: mon fils a eu des plaques sur les fesses, j’ai donc arrêté au bout de 2 jours”.

Lucile réserve l’utilisation des lingettes “en promenade, en voyage, ou pour nettoyer les mains après un repas”. Elle privilégie “une marque bio pour bébé”, tout en avouant ne pas regarder la composition sur le paquet et la présence éventuel de phénoxyéthanol, un conservateur soupçonné d’effet toxique sur la reproduction. “On y comprend rien”, regrette la Parisienne. Alors comment s’y retrouver?

Privilégier les listes d’ingrédients les plus courtes

“C’est vrai que c’est difficile pour les parents de connaître les ingrédients qui posent problème”, reconnaît Justine Berteau, ingénieur santé cosmétique à 60 millions de consommateurs. “Le conseil le plus simple reste de privilégier les listes d’ingrédients les plus courtes”, explique l’experte.

Eviter le phénoxyéthanol, l’alcool et le parfum

Et pour les parents qui se lancent dans la lecture de la composition, “il faut éviter en priorité les produits qui contiennent du phénoxyéthanol, de l’alcool et du parfum, à cause des risques d’allergie ou d’irritation”, souligne Justine Berteau. “Déjà, si on respecte ces trois critères, on peut s’attendre à un produit assez sûr pour la zone du siège. Ailleurs, cela pose moins de problème”.

Une zone très sensible

Il est vrai que le siège est une région à risques. “Les fesses des enfants de 3 ans ou moins étant particulièrement sensibles du fait des irritations fréquentes, l’absorption du produit s’y fait plus facileme”, explique Thierry Thomas, directeur adjoint des produits cosmétiques à l’Agence Nationale de Sécurité du Médicament et des produits de santé (ANSM).

Selon l’ANSM, 64% des utilisateurs de lingettes reconnaissent utiliser fréquemment toutes sortes de lingettes, pas forcément destinées aux enfants, pour nettoyer les fesses des tout-petits.

C’est pour éviter cet usage trop fréquent que l’Agence sanitaire vient d’imposer aux fabricants de cosmétiques, et notamment de lingettes, y compris pour adultes, de mentionner sur l’emballage qu’ils ne peuvent pas être utilisés sur les fesses des enfants de moins de 3 ans. En attendant l’avis de la Commission européenne.

Margaux De Frouville - BFMTV
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03/22/2019 Sylvie Chantecaille On Her Seasonal Skincare Darlings

The skincare skipper, the matriarch, the beauty innovator and all-around boss, Sylvie Chantecaille has a fascinating cosmetics story.

First off, Sylvie de Bois de Soheit as she was known, migrated from France to New York during the hey-day of Studio54 (she was a former debutante so the elegant razzle-dazzle was already second nature to her). And amongst this, the 70s scenester established her eponymous cosmetics brand with none other than her chic counterpart, Diane von Furstenberg. Her niche cosmetics line impressed Estée Lauder, so much so, she was invited to hop on board to spearhead their Prescriptives line.

Riding the wave of success at Lauder, she then met her French husband, Olivier Chantecaille in New York and soon three children followed, as did her own firm focussing on her holistic approach to cosmetics. And it’s very much a family affair; as her brand grew, so did her children, with her two (also very chic) daughters Olivia and Alex brought into the fold, now holding the positions of Creative Director and Vice President of Sales, while her son Philippe is the Director of Media Productions. Oh, and not forgetting Olivier, he’s the Chief Financial Officer, combining his business know-how with his passion for the environment.

And when they’re not providing the red carpet women with their show-stopping looks (cue Rachel Weisz, Emily Blunt, Thandi Newton et al)? Well, they’re pushing their philanthropy platform which highlights global environmental issues and supports conservation efforts around the world. Which leads me onto their limited edition Lip Veil shades which will launch this summer and support the work of the Asia-focused Elephant Family Foundation, as they protect the migratory paths of Elephants in India. What a family.

Tell us about what your job encompasses, and your favorite aspect of it?

It depends on the day! As the founder and CEO of Chantecaille, my responsibilities can find me in Africa, in the bush among a pride of lions, or at my desk with our accountant, reviewing international tax laws for each country we expand to, or working with my product development team to finalize new lip colours, or even sitting beside Sir David Attenborough at The Perfect World Foundation’s Polar Bear Ball, discussing environmental issues. It’s always different - that is why I love it.

Which is your ultimate go-to product and why?

Bio Lifting Serum +. It lifts my skin, rebuilds collagen, heals my stress, and is tremendously regenerative.

What is your signature product at Chantecaille?

Pure Rosewater. I can’t live without it. It has healing properties known to help with inflammation, irritation, and sunburn. It also revives and refreshes skin, and calms the mind and spirit.

What are your top 5 products for spring?

  1. Blue Light Protection Hyaluronic Serum - We all spend too much time on iPads, computers, and smartphones. Our skin is silently, secretly being damaged and we all need this protection.

  2. Polar Ice Eye Palette - Really, incredibly fun and playful - a shadow glaze for the eyes.

  3. Lip Cristal - It is so fun to have completely new technology in makeup - the excitement of a sparkling lip resonated with so many people.

  4. HD Perfecting Loose Powder in Candlelight - The easiest, portable, beautifying trick in your bag.

  5. Darby Rose Fragrance - Do you know how hard it is to make a great rose fragrance? It’s almost impossible!

What’s coming up for the rest for the year?

We have exciting things ahead. Our collaboration with De Gournay will launch in May - this is the first time de Gournay has incorporated a rose in one of their designs - very befitting of our Darby Rose fragrance and gorgeous Lumiere Rose highlighter. This summer we are releasing three limited edition Lip Veil shades that support the work of the Asia-focused Elephant Family Foundation as they protect the migratory paths of Elephants in India - much like the work we do with Space for Giants in Africa. The colors are gorgeous and their work is very impactful. Then, this fall we are launching a new all-encompassing eye and face stick called Real Skin + that is a concealer and foundation in one. Our foundation family is extremely strong.

Felicity Carter - Forbes
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03/21/2019 SGH Healthcaring acquiert Eskiss et Dosapharm

Le petit groupe de dispositifs médicaux atteint désormais les 40 millions d’euros et entre sur le marché des compléments alimentaires.

En accueillant Mérieux Développement et Gimv à son capital l’an dernier, Stiplastics Healthcaring le spécialiste dans la fabrication de dispositifs en plastique pour le secteur de la santé se donnait pour objectif de financer sa croissance. C’était chose faite, en juin, avec le rachat de Rovipharm et de RR Plastiques pour les traitements liquides (pipettes, compte-gouttes..), ce qui l’a fait doubler de taille, aujourd’hui, avec celui de deux autres sociétés basées dans l’Allier, Eskiss Packaging et Dosapharm.

Situé à Saint-Bonnet-de-Rochefort, Eskiss Packaging emploie 25 personnes pour un chiffre d’affaires de 5,2 millions d’euros. La société a trois lignes de produits sur le secteur des compléments alimentaires. Elle fabrique les Unicadose, des ampoules en plastique sécables qui peuvent remplacer les ampoules en verre en double pointe.

Mais aussi des flacons en PET (polyéthylène téréphtalate) pour des compléments alimentaires et des piluliers en plastique PEHD (polyéthylène haute densité) permettant de ranger des comprimés. Quant au laboratoire Dosapharm, il est spécialisé dans le remplissage de l’Unicadose pour différents secteurs de la diététique, cosmétique, phytothérapie, vétérinaire, biomédical ou agroalimentaire.

Chambres d’inhalation

" Avec ces deux opérations, le groupe accède au marché en plein essor des compléments alimentaires et renforce ses capacités de production tout en disposant d’une nouvelle technologie, l’injection soufflage ", se félicite Jérôme Empereur, PDG de SGH Healthcaring.

Jugé plus accessible et moins contraignant que le secteur pharmaceutique où le groupe agissait jusque-là avec les piluliers, les chambres d’inhalation ou les mouche-bébé, le secteur des compléments alimentaires va enrichir le catalogue du groupe. SGH Healthcaring compte désormais 200 salariés et trois sites de production en France : Stiplastics à Saint-Marcellin (Isère), Rovipharm à Val-Revermont (Ain) et Eskiss Packaging à Saint-Bonnet-de-Rochefort (Allier). Le groupe annonce un chiffre d’affaire de plus de 40 millions d’euros en 2019 et s’est fixé comme objectif de passer 100 millions d’ici à cinq ans.

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03/21/2019 On National Fragrance Day, Shiseido Fragrances SVP Robin Mason Gives The Industry's Inside Scoop

The world of perfume is clouded in mystery. So, in honor of National Fragrance Day today, held annually on March 21, we asked Robin Mason, Senior Vice President, Marketing for Shiseido Fragrances, to give us a peek inside. “It is great to have a day like National Fragrance Day, created and celebrated by the Fragrance Foundation,” she says. “It brings awareness to the fragrance industry and the talented artists that make fragrance their life’s work. I think it is important to demystify the category and educate consumers on the importance of scent. Fragrance is so personal and meaningful that having a day to acknowledge the importance scent plays in marking the milestones of our lives is wonderful.” She shares her valuable insider’s insight:

How have you seen the fragrance industry evolve over the course of your career? I have witnessed the industry evolve from the big and bold scents of the 80’s and 90’s to the celebrity craze that dominated the early 2000’s, where having a piece of someone famous transpired into celebrities being their own brand ambassadors. Success was predicated by the size of their fan base and social following. Today, artisanal scents with stories showcase a consumer’s own interests. With this transition and easy entry into the category, we have learned to view the industry in a less traditional and more consumer-centric way.

As the SVP of Marketing for Shiseido fragrances, what is a typical day like for you? I oversee five designer brands, with over 20 launches a year – it’s safe to say there is never a dull moment! I start my day at 7AM catching up on emails and getting organized for the day ahead. I touch base with my team before the day starts and then it’s eight hours of meetings, which can include a variety of marketing topics, hosting visitors, budget discussions, calls with our partners in Paris, business lunches, negotiating agreements, etc. Every day is full of decision making, exciting new ideas and working through our challenges. I usually end the day with an industry event or dinner with friends or family. I kiss my family goodnight and I’m asleep by 11PM.

What are the challenges of tapping the influencer community for fragrance? Fragrance is different than any other beauty pillar; you can’t see the results like the instant gratification you get from color cosmetics or hair styling – or even skincare before-and-after shots. So, we put stock into our influencer partners, tapping into their network and their creative storylines with backdrops that paint the picture of what each fragrance represents. An experiential event or trip where we can bring influencers into a branded environment allows them to tell our fragrance story in their own voice. This is something we are doing more of. For example, coming up in April, we are hosting influencers on a trip to Iceland to tell the story of the new fragrance by Narciso Rodriguez, for her Pure Musc. That said, we can’t rely wholly on these modern-day tactics; scent is so personal and everyone still wants to smell and test before they commit to a purchase. To blend current practices with tried and true methodology, we partner the two: digital sampling by means of social media.

How has marketing changed? The very nature of marketing is to be ever-evolving, but it now changes at rapid speed due to social media and technology. Although print still holds its luster, consumers absorb their information at the tips of their fingers (quite literally, through their phones). Because every brand wants a piece of the pie when it comes to digital space, it’s more important than ever to maintain authenticity; Gen Z especially craves relatability, so we’re constantly ideating how to insert ourselves into what’s relevant without compromising our brand DNA.

How are niche, indie fragrance brands challenging the industry dynamic and how are classic brands responding to that? The prestige universe is being fueled by the fast growth of artisanal brands that continue to drive creativity and the thirst of consumers for innovative and unique scents. Consumers today are more engaged than ever; they want to connect to a brand on a deeper level before they commit to it. This has in turn pushed the more classic brands into re-thinking how they speak to that consumer. We must go beyond the tried-and-true traditional marketing techniques to reach a deeper level.

Why do you think gender neutral scents are on the rise? We are living in a time where traditional stereotypes are being broken down – there are no rules and it’s very motivating as a marketer. Everyone should be able to wear the scent that speaks to them personally. Who is to say certain olfactive territories belong to each sex? Scent has no gender; it should be enjoyed by everyone.

Why are personalized scents becoming so popular? Personalized scents have been available at local perfumers in select cities for years, but now there are companies that create personalized scents with information from a customer’s online questionnaire. These services provide consumers an opportunity to play perfumer, learn about essential oils and raw ingredients and create something completely custom. It combines two needs at once: individuality (no one wants to smell like every other person in the room anymore!) and the “I want it now” desire that our generation can’t seem to get enough of.

What new innovations are you most excited about? After being in the industry over 25 years, it’s a new world. Anyone with a strong fragrance background, an innovative concept and unique story can make a name for themselves in the fragrance industry. Go walk the floor of specialty retailers and you will find a collection of names that were not around two or three years ago. I am so inspired by the companies that started creating in say, a Brooklyn garage, and are now shaking up the category – it’s interesting to watch and it’s why I love this industry. I also find that some of the direct-to-consumer plays are really changing the way we perceive scent.

What drives trends in the fragrance industry? Moments in history and society shape how people feel and therefore change purchasing patterns – this is true for fashion and many categories of consumer goods, inclusive of fragrance. Right now we’re seeing a resurgence of bolder scents, which I think is emblematic of today’s climate, consumer confidence and our focus on women empowerment, more so now than ever before. Just like eucalyptus reminds us of the spa and coconut reminds us of vacation, bold scents evoke confidence and tenacity!

What notes and types of fragrances will be trending this spring? Florals will always have a moment come spring, but just because this isn’t groundbreaking doesn’t make it “boring” – the same genre of notes can always be reinvented and paired in different ways (i.e. pepper and freesia as seen in Dolce & Gabbana’s new Dolce Peony fragrance, giving the perfect balance of spicy and sweet). I also think we’ll see an emphasis of gourmands in the juice, like coffee beans, vanilla and coconut water. These notes strike a chord with everyone on some level, acting as nostalgic mood manipulators. Lastly, hemp notes! Cannabis is a huge trend right now, spanning multiple industries, but we’re just starting to see this translate into fragrances.

What new fragrances are you launching this spring? We’re really excited for Narciso Rodriguez for her Pure Musc, which is the newest iteration in the iconic for her collection and is absolutely addicting! Narciso’s fragrances are always beautiful inside and out. Because he’s first and foremost a fashion designer, the bottle design reflects his aesthetic and then there’s the juice, focused on his mainstay heart note: musc, which is timeless and super sensual, yet empowering. We also have an exciting new launch from Dolce & Gabbana: Dolce Peony. This is the newest rendition of the original Dolce scent. Last year’s version, Dolce Garden, received such a great response. Dolce Peony is just what you want during the spring season: A youthful, floral scent that gets you excited for warmer months ahead.

Celia Shatzman - Forbes
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03/21/2019 China Retail: Can A Personal Shopper Be Your Secret Weapon?

During a lunch a few weeks ago in Los Angeles, a friend showed up with some products he had just purchased from the local CVS drugstore. When he relayed that the purchases were to be shipped to relatives in China, I observed that his purchases were already available there. He agreed, but said that his in-laws preferred products shipped directly from the U.S. “So you are a one-man daigou,” I commented, and he nodded in agreement.

Daigous are one of the most important but least understood sales channels in China, in some cases, so successful that a single daigou e-commerce store can be larger than the “official” branded e-commerce store. Balea, a German skincare brand achieves some one-third of its sales through daigou and indirect channels. What is a daigou and how can a brand use this channel to drive sales?

Daigou-pronounced dye-go-literally means “representative purchasing” and refers to merchants who source and re-sell products even if they are not authorized distributors. It is essentially an informal consumer-to-consumer channel. They proliferate in the Chinese e-commerce ecosystem, with several advantages for the Chinese consumer:

In the early days of China e-commerce, a typical daigou was a student or a tourist who could bring back a duffle bag of products to sell online. This has now evolved to where the daigous are much larger, more businesslike, and can have formal relations with brands. Frontier Strategy Group estimates that 7% of China e-commerce takes place through daigou channels. For their part, brands are increasingly likely to actively manage the daigou.

The categories with the most Daigou activity: Luxury apparel and accessories, cosmetics (especially those that are cruelty-free), and nutrition, including mother and baby products.

Taobao has long been the primary platform for daigou merchants, although WeChat is becoming more active. And daigous are not just for the U.S. market; Australia and New Zealand have huge daigou ecosystems as do many European countries.

Chinese Government View

The Chinese government has been largely supportive of the daigous, realizing that they fill a market need-helping when a brand will not enter the China market or will not effectively connect with the Chinese consumer. At the same time, there is a concern about daigous who might be taking advantage of loopholes.

These concerns center on tax evasion and on product safety and dependability, so China customs will often check matters such as expiration dates and product authenticity. And there are a few other changes. Daigou agents are now required by Chinese law to register. This means their business must be connected to a Chinese entity and taxes must be paid on products brought across the border. No more students with duffle bags.

For their part, WeChat and Taobao have taken steps to identify unregistered daigou agents on their platforms and remove their posts and listings.

Three Lessons for a Brand

These trends indicate that even as daigous grow in sales, they will be fewer but more professional. How should this affect brand behavior?

First, the daigou market has been a central driver of Chinese consumers’ internationalization and brand education. Professional daigou agents have a book of loyal customers who trust them not only to provide a quality product, but to recommend new products the agent deems suitable for their customers’ lifestyles. Much ado is made about the emphasis placed on solid relationships in Chinese culture, and that dynamic is on full display in the daigou market.

Second, serious daigou agents are not scared by the new policies, and indeed embrace them. Legitimate daigous have the resources to build their businesses and fully comply with local laws. Although there may be adjustments to their economics, these daigous welcome the extra scrutiny as it weeds out bad actors. This “flight to quality” means an increase in consumer spending through this channel, with a skew toward the stronger daigous.

Frank Lavin - Forbes
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03/21/2019 Certaines lingettes ne doivent pas être utilisées sur les fesses des bébés

Des lingettes contenant un conservateur, le phénoxyéthanol, ne doivent pas être utilisées pour nettoyer les fesses des enfants de 3 ans ou mois.

Les lingettes contenant un conservateur, le phénoxyéthanol, soupçonné d’effets toxiques pour la reproduction, ne doivent pas être utilisées pour nettoyer les fesses des enfants de 3 ans ou moins, recommande l’Agence des produits de santé (ANSM).

Elle a donc décidé d’imposer aux fabricants des produits cosmétiques dits “non rincés” contenant cet agent conservateur, notamment toutes les lingettes y compris celles vendues pour adultes, de faire figurer sur l’étiquetage, au plus tard dans neuf mois, qu’ils ne peuvent pas être utilisés sur les fesses des enfants de 3 ans ou moins.

Cette décision de “police sanitaire”, est prise à titre conservatoire, en attendant l’avis de la Commission européenne à ce sujet, ajoute ce mercredi l’Agence nationale de sécurité du médicament et des produits de santé (ANSM).

La recommandation et l’étiquetage vise à éviter la trop fréquente utilisation de toutes sortes lingettes, destinées ou non aux enfants, pour nettoyer les fesses des tout-petits - ce que 64% des utilisateurs reconnaissent faire.

Or, ajoute l’agence sanitaire, leur siège est “particulièrement sensible” avec un risque plus fréquent de peau lésée (érythème fessier) favorisant le passage du conservateur phénoxyéthanol dans le corps.

Des crèmes et laits concernés

Les déodorants, ainsi que des produits de coiffage et de maquillage qui contiennent ce conservateur, ne sont pas concernés par cette décision d’étiquetage.

En revanche, “les crèmes, laits et lotions non rincés devront porter cet étiquetage”, précise à Thierry Thomas de l’ANSM.

Pour les autres produits destinés aux enfants de 3 ans ou moins, la concentration de 1% maximum en phénoxyéthanol est applicable, conformément au règlement européen relatif aux produits cosmétiques.

Des études toxicologiques suggèrent une toxicité du phénoxyéthanol pour la reproduction et le développement à fortes doses chez l’animal, sans que de tels effets aient été rapportés chez l’homme, note l’ANSM.

Agence France-Presse,Clément Boutin - BFMTV
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03/21/2019 Half head, half guts: LVMH man's maxim for leadership

As opening gambits go, Stéphane Bianchi’s is one of the more guarded. “I say no to most interviews,” begins the head of the LVMH watches division, which includes TAG Heuer, Hublot and Zenith.

“I don’t want to say anything about strategy because we’re working on it – and anyway, I don’t want to be too precise because it only benefits competitors.”

If that remains his position, Mr Bianchi will cut a very different figure from his predecessor, with whom inevitably he will be compared. In November, the mild-mannered Frenchman took over from industry veteran Jean-Claude Biver, a vocal character known throughout the industry for his candour and showmanship. Mr Biver, who had been suffering from ill health, has since moved into a non-executive role in the division.

Dressed in a modest blue suit and white shirt, Mr Bianchi looks comfortable in the plush surroundings of Geneva’s Kempinski Hotel. While he might come across as more reserved than his predecessor, he appears no less determined.

“I have never looked at the man, I’ve looked at the job,” he says when asked about following in Mr Biver’s footsteps.

“[He] is very famous, but I’ve taken over from many great men and founders, and I’ve never looked at myself taking over from someone else. I’m taking over a brand. It’s completely different.”

Industry observers viewed Mr Bianchi’s appointment as left field.

He arrived aged 54, with no watch industry experience, typically a prerequisite when taking the reins at the biggest names in watchmaking. His perspective is that he likes “working with family-owned companies – even if that company is huge”. LVMH describes itself as a “family-run group”, with more than 150,000 employees.

Mr Bianchi has form here. In 1994, after a stint with now-defunct accounting firm Arthur Andersen, he joined family-run French cosmetics group Yves Rocher, becoming its chief executive three years later, aged 33. He was tasked by Mr Rocher, the founder who died in 2009, with buying back shares that he had sold in the early 1970s, after he was told by doctors – wrongly as it transpired – that he was dying, according to Mr Bianchi.

At the end of 2012, he says, he had delivered the brief. “That was a good time for me to leave,” he adds – though the family convinced him to stay another three years.

“I wanted to buy my own company,” he explains. “To be alone without anyone looking over my shoulder.” By his own admission, it didn’t work out. “This was a failure because I did not succeed,” is his simple summary. “I could not find a very good brand, a brand I could fall in love with and for a good price.”

So in 2016, he joined the board of Maus Frères, a family-owned Swiss conglomerate that operates sportswear and outdoor brands Lacoste, Gant and Aigle, among others – a position he has retained since joining LVMH.

He had met Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive of LVMH, informally a few years before he was approached by him last year to take over from Mr Biver.

LVMH – whose other subsidiaries include Louis Vuitton, Dior and Bulgari – says its watches division contributed €4.1bn to group sales of €46.9bn in 2018. “This division might [be able to] occupy a bigger place within the group, but that’s a real challenge because this is a fashion group,” Mr Bianchi says.

While he holds back on details of the division’s current performance, he says growth is “not far off being in line” with 2018 export figures reported by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, which grew 6.3 per cent year on year.

“I’m not here just to manage things as they are,” he insists. “I’m here to grow our brands and the division as well.”

Alongside his role leading the division, Mr Bianchi, who lives in London with his family, has also become chief executive of TAG Heuer, which is based in the Swiss town of La Chaux-de-Fonds.

He is a longtime watch collector and is enjoying getting under the skin of the division’s three brands, he says. “I’ve been working with brands for years and I need to understand them before launching a strategy,” he says.

“I need to feel them. For me, with brands it’s 50 per cent head and 50 per cent guts.”

TAG Heuer has the highest revenues in the portfolio, he says. He describes its price positioning as “perfect” and the “entry to luxury”. Hublot has the strongest presence of the three in China, he notes, while Zenith and TAG Heuer have “huge work to do” in the Asian market. He believes Zenith, the smallest of the three brands, “deserves to be much bigger than it is now”.

Mr Bianchi admits he still harbours an ambition to have his own company. “Yes, it does remain, but now I want to build something within the division,” he says.

Still, that comes with its own risks. “I’m not paid to establish something wrong,” he says. “I’m paid to succeed.”

Half Guts,Robin Swithinbank,Half Head - Financial Times
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03/20/2019 Avec ses "KHOL", le luxe français affiche des profits record - Luxe

Les Etats-Unis ont les GAFA (Google, Apple, Facebook, Amazon), la France a les KHOL : Kering, Hermès, L’Oreal et LVMH. Les quatre fleurons du luxe tricolore affichent une capitalisation de 422 milliards d’euros, soit 25% du CAC 40. “L’indice CAC 40 est déformé par le poids de ces quatre acteurs du luxe, c’est pourquoi on peut oser la comparaison avec les GAFA américains”, explique Pierre-Yves Gauthier, directeur de la recherche d’AlphaValue, inventeur de l’acronyme. Certes, la comparaison est fade face aux GAFA, dont la capitalisation est dix fois plus élevée (4 240 milliards de dollars), mais contrairement aux valeurs technologiques américaines qui ont été chahutées en bourse, le luxe français ne connait pas (encore) la crise.

Hermès a publié ses résultats ce mercredi 20 mars. Les ventes et le bénéfice net du sellier-maroquinier ont atteint de nouveaux records en 2018 : le chiffre d’affaires frôlé les 6 milliards d’euros, en hausse de 10,4% ; son résultat s’est élevé à 1,4 milliard d’euros, en progression de 15 % sur un an. L’Asie, hors Japon, poursuit sa forte croissance en Chine et dans les pays d’Asie du sud (+14%).

Kering a également fait état de résultats annuels record. Propriété du milliardaire François Pinault, le groupe détient des marques telles qu’Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen et surtout Gucci qui a dopé les résultats en 2018 : sur les 14 milliards d’euros de ventes réalisées par Kering en 2018, Gucci y a contribué à hauteur de 8 milliards. Le résultat net a été multiplié par deux à 3,71 milliards. Une dynamique portée par l’Amérique du Nord (+38 %), mais aussi l’Asie, (+34 %), et notamment la Chine, où la tendance est restée bien orientée début 2019.

Attention à la décélération de la croissance chinoise

L’Oréal a publié un bénéfice net de 3,89 milliards d’euros en 2018, en hausse de 8,8% sur un an, ainsi qu’un nouveau record de rentabilité, grâce au dynamisme de ses divisions haut de gamme L’Oréal Luxe et Cosmétique Active. La marge d’exploitation du géant mondial des cosmétiques a atteint 18,3% du chiffre d’affaires l’an dernier. Ses ventes annuelles ont totalisé 26,9 milliards d’euros (+3,5%). Les ventes de L’Oréal ont de nouveau bondi dans la zone Asie-Pacifique (+24,1% à données comparables), grâce surtout à la Chine.

LVMH, enfin, la plus grosse capitalisation du CAC 40 (161 milliards d’euros), a réalisé en 2018 des ventes de 46,8 milliards d’euros, en progression de 10 %. Le résultat opérationnel courant s’est établi à 10 milliards d’euros en 2018, en hausse de 21 %, tandis que le résultat net a progressé de 18% à 6,4 milliards d’euros.

“Sur le plan industriel, les performances des acteurs du luxe sont extraordinaires, c’est presque une anomalie dans le monde des sociétés cotées en France”, commente Pierre-Yves Gauthier. “Leur marge d’exploitation s’élève à 23% contre 12,5% en moyenne dans le CAC 40”. Sur un an, le cours de l’action de Kering a progressé de 47%, celle de Hermès de 31%, L’Oréal de 29% et LVMH de 25%. Attention toutefois à l’atterrissage. “Ces géants du luxe sont très exposé à la Chine, or personne ne sait si le consommateur chinois sera encore présent en 2019, il y a un fort risque de décélération”, prévient le directeur de la recherche d’AlphaValue. Or plus il y a un excès de valorisation, plus les cours risquent de s’effondrer. C’est ce qu’il s’est passé pour les GAFA en novembre dernier.

L'Usine Nouvelle - usinenouvelle.com/
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03/20/2019 L'Agence des produits de santé recommande d'éviter certaines lingettes pour bébés

Les fabricants de lingettes contenant du phénoxyéthanol vont devoir faire figurer sur l’étiquetage que ces produits ne doivent pas être utilisés pour des enfants de moins de 3 ans.

L’Agence nationale des produits de santé (ANSM) vient d’émettre une nouvelle recommandation : les produits " non rincés " comme les lingettes contenant du phénoxyéthanol, un agent conservateur soupçonné d’effets toxiques sur l’organisme, ne doivent pas être utilisés sur les fesses des enfants de trois ans ou moins.

L’ANSM impose également aux fabricants de produits cosmétiques " non rincés " contenant ce conservateur, notamment les lingettes, les crèmes et les lotions, de faire figurer sur l’étiquetage qu’ils ne peuvent pas être utilisés sur les fesses des enfants de trois ans ou moins.

Une partie du corps particulièrement sensible

Cette décision de " police sanitaire " doit être appliquée d’ici neuf mois. Elle est prise à titre conservatoire, en attendant l’avis de la Commission européenne à ce sujet, ajoute l’ANSM, qui choisit d’appliquer un principe de précaution. Les déodorants ainsi que des produits de coiffage et de maquillage qui contiennent ce conservateur ne sont en revanche pas concernés par cette décision.

En 2012 déjà, l’Agence avait émis une recommandation pour que la teneur maximale du phénoxyéthanol dans les produits pour nettoyer le siège des bébés soit restreinte à 0,4 %. Désormais, s’appuyant sur un rapport d’experts européens, l’ANSM décide de recommander de ne plus les utiliser. Pour les autres produits destinés aux enfants de 3 ans ou moins, comme les gels douches, la concentration de 1 % maximum en phénoxyéthanol est applicable, conformément au règlement européen relatif aux produits cosmétiques.

La recommandation et l’étiquetage visent à éviter la trop fréquente utilisation de toutes sortes de lingettes, destinées ou non aux enfants, pour nettoyer les fesses des tout-petits - ce que 64 % des utilisateurs reconnaissent faire. Or le siège des bébés est une partie du corps " particulièrement sensible ", affirme l’Agence. Elle comporte un risque plus fréquent de peau lésée, favorisant le passage du phénoxyéthanol dans le corps.

Des études toxicologiques suggèrent une toxicité de ce conservateur pour la reproduction et le développement à fortes doses chez l’animal, sans que de tels effets aient été rapportés chez l’homme, note l’ANSM.

Avec AFP

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