Les Trophées Cosmébio 2022 – Quels produits sont en lice cette année?
Tuesday, February 27, 2018News

2018 new Cosmétagora formulas (6)


Just like every year, the Cosmétagora show organized by the SFC (French Society of Cosmetology) last January 9-10, celebrated innovations in cosmetics formulation. Brands could find plenty of inspiration, both in terms of product design and marketing concepts

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Formulas presented (S to… S)


À Fleur de Peau is an ultra-feminine, captivating, soothing cleansing oil composed of 83% natural ingredients.
Its visual, perfume, and texture convey wellness and relaxation.
It is an invitation to experience a sensorial, poetic and calm journey in the world of spas.
VEGGIE GEL, a lipophilic gelling agent containing a biosourced, biodegradable oil, and biosourced oil EMOLID CC combine for outstandingly efficient cleansing.
The experience is prolonged thanks to water rinsing: the cleansing oil soaked with impurities turns into a delicate, milky emulsion for an infinitely soft and silky skin feel.
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Safic Alcan

Our universal minimalist cream composed of 10 ingredients conceals many surprises. This formula was designed thanks to an innovative ingredient based on the HIPE (High Internal Phase Emulsion) complex technology.
If a traditional emulsion makes it possible to integrate up to 74% of water, the HIPE system helps incorporate over 90% hydrophilic internal phase.
This technological feat is possible thanks to the polygonal, non-spherical structure of the dispersed phase.
Using an innovative, unique ingredient – a real keystone in this formula - helped us easily obtain a radiant white cream with a rich texture for excellent handling and easy application.
You will appreciate the elegant sensoriality of the application and be astonished by the quick-break effect providing an ultra-fresh sensation and leaving a protective film and very soft finish.
Our meticulous selection of multifunctional ingredients creates a rich, velvety texture and prevents the addition of too many additives. This minimalist formula is economical and environmentally friendly.
The universal minimalist cream will seduce both kids and adults thanks to the pleasure of use provided by its freshness and comfort.
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Instant Activation Mask.
Instant Activation Mask, a playful formula with an immediate effect, was developed to seduce DIY and customization lovers. You can play with colours, the combined actives, and perfumes depending on the sensorial experience you expect and the results you hope for.
With only ten, 99% natural ingredients, this mask fully meets consumer demand for ‘transparent’, natural products without compromising on performance.
Formulated with sugar for gentle exfoliating, this mask is enriched in actives based on mattifying, detoxifying fossilized algae from the old volcano lakes of the French Auvergne region, but also on purifying zinc oxide.
A pigment is used to give the powder its initial pink shade. Thanks to an aqueous thickener based on potato starch, the powder instantaneously turns into gel when it comes in contact with water.
The green colourant obtained by chlorophyll extraction is only unveiled by adding water to give the mask its final colour.
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Lemon meringue pie.
GELTRAPTM duo, nourishing, comforting body care.
Playful concept, two-phase cream with:
• At the bottom, a lemon cream
• On the surface, a meringue cream with its spikes!
A gourmet cosmetic product evoking a lemon meringue pie thanks to its appearance, texture, and smell!
Simple, minimalist formula. The two superimposed formulas are identical in terms of composition and process.
The two phases are obtained with a bulking rotor-stator process involving the GELTRAPTM technology (gel in oil) and the EASYNOVTM lipophilic emulsifier.
It helps get consistency and comfort with very little oil and only eight raw materials (i.e. 10 INCI ingredients).
Key ingredients:
• SEPIMAXTM ZEN, a thickening polymer which provides a floaty texture. It stabilizes the air bubbles incorporated when the gel forms during the bulking process. It also creates the elastic texture that maintains the meringue spikes.
• LANOLTM P, a consistency agent which gives GELTRAPTM density and enhances the powdery finish.
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Shin Etsu

Minimalys – sorbet gel - anti-photoaging - soothing.
A scintillating look in the blink of an eye!
Ombre Scintillante combines comfort and long wear thanks to the association of two film-forming agents:
• KF-7312T (Trimethylsiloxysilicate) for long wear
• KP-549 (Silicone acrylate) for comfort and flexibility
TMF-1.5 (Methyl Trimethicone) and KSP-300 (hybrid powder of silicone) provide a slide effect and softness for simple and quick application.
Its small size will become an essential in all handbags. Only one gesture and your gaze is illuminated till the end of the night!
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Scrub Velvet: a face scrub with a velvety look and skin feel.
Sensorial pleasure also depends on attractive looks that make the user feel like touching and plunging their fingers in the surprising texture. That is when the granita-like transparency is unveiled. You will marvel at this concentrate of emotions!
The composition simplicity - ten perfectly-dosed ingredients - offers very gentle exfoliation thanks to silica particles and transparent macrospheres forming real mini-cleansing sponges. Your skin is purified, free from dead cells.
Yes to simplicity, no to dullness!
To be applied on dry skin. Gently massage the skin and rinse off with clear water.
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CrazySpheres® Soothing.
Gelée perlée apaisante à l’eau de Rose - Soothing pearly gel with Rose water.
A real ally of reactive and sensitive skins, CrazySpheres® Soothing is a serum made of hydro-soothing, multi-active pearls enriched in purifying rose water.
When applied on the skin, its gel texture instantaneously relieves irritations and durably restores skin comfort by providing an instantaneous sensation of softness and freshness.
Based only on ten ingredients, this skincare product contains skin pearls featuring a biotechnological active that restructures the skin’s barrier function, immediately soothes the skin, moisturizes it, and provides a silky skin feel in full symbiosis with the rose petal water serum. This unique, high-tech, refined formula helps sensitized and dried skins recover wellness.
Main ingredients:
• In the Pearl: Fucogel® - biotechnological active which restructures the skin’s barrier function, provides an immediate soothing effect, moisturizes the skin, and creates a silky skin feel
• In the Serum: rose floral water – gently purifies the epidermis and provides radiance
Instructions for use:
• Press the pump to deliver the product quantity needed
• Apply in the morning and at night on the face, on clean and dry skin.
Intended for external use, avoid eye contact.
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Stéarinerie Dubois

Green Short.
Maximum comfort, minimum INCI list.
A real skincare & comfort benefit for a light finish.
 100% natural, wrapping, repairing… Such is the comforting effect offered by water-in-oil formulas.

Women search for surprising sensations on their skins.
The market is changing, and water-in-oil formulas provide a warm, comforting sensation on the skin, while preserving the liquid texture.
Oils reinvent feelings and sensuality!
• Both rich and light formula
• Wholly natural
• Green emulsifier composition
• Biodegradable
• Cold process
• Skin feel close to those created by water-in-silicone emulsions with green ingredients
This cream guarantees high protection against the cold and bad weather, while creating a long-lasting, sensual, light effect.
Rich in omegas, it provides prolonged hydration and optimum protection.
Minimalist formula with only 10 ingredients (including water)!
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New technologies, pollution, stress, lack of sleep… Your skin constantly suffers new damages due to your urban lifestyle.
Consequences: dull complexion, marked features, tightness, redness. Say no! Revive your complexion radiance!
This life concentrate with ten precious ingredients provides your skin with its vital core. The minimalist formula contains two powerful, responsibly extracted natural ingredients for multiple benefits.
• An ancestral beauty secret from Amazonia: derived from the tree commonly known as ‘tree of life’ and fair-trade-sourced, the Symrise Buriti oil is rich in carotenoids, vitamin E, and fatty acids. It provides a healthy glow and helps hydrate the skin and protect it from sun damage.
• SymBright® 2036: a salvia active molecule which boosts the complexion’s luminosity by evening it out and protecting it from UV rays, blue light, and pollution, while soothing it from discomforting sensations.
This concentrate of efficacy will delight the busiest among you with its ultra-light, instantaneously absorbed aqueous texture.
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Formulating a sun product with a high protection factor is a real challenge for formulators. It raises four major problems related to the high sun filter concentration:
• Modified tolerance and skin toxicity
• Poor sensorial qualities
• Negative impact on the marine environment
• Economic issue related to the cost of sun filters
UVINESSENCE 50+ benefits from a unique technology which helps obtain a 3.1 SPF yield for a liquid spray (number of units SPF/% of filters).
With only 18% filters (all authorized worldwide), you reach an SPF56 ( in vivo FDA), a critical wavelength of 376 nm, and excellent photostability thanks to Synoxyl® HSS, a photostabilizer and SPF booster.
HydraSynol® DOI plays a double role: it is moisturizing (Aquaporin pathway) and acts as an acrylic polymer bioplasticizer.
A few minutes after applying the anhydrous spray, the persistent quality and invisibility of the film on the surface combine performance and sensoriality. The latter criterion is essential to encourage the user to frequently reapply the product.
The simple, efficient combination of multifunctional ingredients in a preservative-free formula offers an excellent economical profile and enhanced neutrality for the marine environment.
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Best ingredient innovation of 2022

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