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The Absolute of Lemongrass Newly Authorized in Cosmetic Perfumes

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Up to the present, and since an opinion given in May 2000 by the scientific committee of European cosmetic products European, the use of the oil of verbena (Lippia citriodora Kunth., in French citronelle - lemongrass - or odorous vervain) was prohibited in cosmetic products. Evolution of the regulation: recent Directive of 22 December 2009 rehabilitates this ingredient at least partially….

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January 4, 2010

In 2000, the European scientific committee recommended the prohibition of essential oils of verbena (Lippia citriodora Kunth.) and of derivatives, both the concrete and absolute, for use as an ingredient of perfume, because of their sensitizing potential.

However, in another opinion given in 2001, this same committee deemed that the absolute of verbena obtained starting from Lippia citriodora Kunth. could be used under the condition that the concentration in finished cosmetic products does not exceed 0.2%.

It is this decision which the European commission has addressed recently in Directive 2009/164/UE. This text allows the reintroduction of absolute of verbena in perfumes, to begin 15 February 2011, specifying in addition that any substances "Essential oils of verbena (Lippia citriodora Kunth.) and derivatives other than the absolue" are, always prohibited for use as an ingredient of perfume.

This same Directive also introduces an additional restriction, which relates to Allyl phenethyl ether (No. CAS 14289-65-7). This substance, from now on classified among allyl esters which can contain allyl alcohol as an impurity, is therefore subject to a new restriction of employment: the level of allyl alcohol free in ether must be lower than 0.1%.

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