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July 22, 2019 | Congress reports

Cosmetic ingredients: how to innovate despite the constraints pro

Regulatory or market-imposed restrictions, safety and security requirements when tools are lacking to evaluate them… the framework for the use of cosmetic raw materials is increasingly constrained. How then to develop innovation, this major driver of the cosmetics sector? During a day of conferences organized by Cosmetic Valley on June 20, 2019, Adama Traoré, Johnson & Johnson Group’s safety assessor, recalled the basics and gave some keys to continue to move forward.

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Adama Traoré
22 July 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetic ingredients: how to innovate despite the constraints pro

Regulatory or market-imposed restrictions, safety and security requirements when tools are lacking to evaluate them… the framework for the use of cosmetic raw materials is increasingly constrained. How then to develop innovation, this major driver of the cosmetics sector? During a day of conferences organized by Cosmetic Valley on June 20 ...

Gaultier Massip
17 July 2019 Congress reports

Recycling, use of recycled material, reuse: towards circular packaging pro

Among all the requirements that exist today in the world of cosmetics, environmental constraints are increasingly at the heart of the news, and plastics are not the only materials concerned. During a day of conferences on the theme of consumer safety organized by Cosmetic Valley, Gaultier Massip, from CITEO, presented ...

2019 Seminary on Quality in the Cosmetics industry
17 July 2019 Congress reports

From approval to storage: the management of cosmetic raw materials pro

During the 2019 Seminary on Quality in the Cosmetics industry, organised by IFIS and FEBEA, Chrystelle Gatelier, Jean-Pierre Guidot and Marjorie Schambel, all three quality managers, respectively for the Guerlain, L’Oréal and Pierre Fabre groups, detailed the procedures for the proper management of raw materials used in cosmetic products, based, of ...

Sylvie Gallage-Alwis
16 July 2019 Congress reports

Essential oils in court pro

The determination of the status of products containing essential oils is often quite delicate, but particularly important because it determines the regulations applicable to them and their legal qualification. During the two-day Aromadays conference, organised by Cosmed in Avignon on 4 and 5 July 2019, Sylvie Gallage-Alwis, lawyer at Signature Litigation, detailed the main sources ...

CSR: a new way to create value
15 July 2019 Congress reports

CSR: a new way to create value pro

The theme of engagement was at the heart of the third edition of la Journée de la Beauté, organized in Paris on June 25 by the CEW. Cosmetic companies are expected by consumers and civil society to take social, ethical and environmental positions. Moreover, these commitments could even increase the value of ...

Françoise Audebert
10 July 2019 Congress reports

Methods for reducing microbial load pro

The challenges of preserving a cosmetic product are such that sometimes… its formula does not pass the challenge-test… To save a batch contaminated by microorganisms from the dumpster, the last resort may be a treatment such as sterilization or irradiation. Techniques that can be used in cosmetics, but which are ...

Brands/consumers relationship: instructions for use
09 July 2019 Congress reports

Brands/consumers relationship: instructions for use pro

As every year, the CEW organized the “Journée de la Beauté”, an event dedicated to professionals in the sector, to take stock of market trends and future challenges. For the third edition, held in Paris on 25 June 2019, the central theme was the notion of engagement. Stéphanie Gabriel, vice-president of the trend ...

Cosmetics sector: a major player in the French economy
08 July 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetics sector: a major player in the French economy pro

Futile, the cosmetics industry? Not so much… At its general meeting held in Paris on June 5, 2019, the FEBEA unveiled the results of a study conducted by Astères on the economic weight of beauty companies in France. The cosmetics industry actively contributes to the country’s wealth and influence.

You'll have some more fake news, won't you?
02 July 2019 Congress reports

You'll have some more fake news, won't you? pro

“300 dangerous cosmetics on the market”, “ingredients used by beauty manufacturers are unreliable”, “the use of skin care products can cause illness”, and many other such claims are in the minds of consumers. Even if the cosmetics industry has the tangible evidence to deconstruct them, they are persistent. At the FEBEA ...

Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of the Cosmetic Valley
26 June 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetics: safety in danger

On June 20, 2019, Cosmetic Valley organized a day of conferences on the theme of consumer safety. As Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of the Cosmetic Valley, mentioned in his introductory speech, and as Charles Reinier of Cosmepar and Gaël Gervais of Analytec subsequently demonstrated, with their analyses of the evolution of cosmetic ...

Salvatore D'Acunto, Gerald Renner and Monique Goyens at CEAC 2019
24 June 2019 Congress reports

CEAC 2019: Safety in debate pro

The Annual Conference of Cosmetics Europe (Federation of European Cosmetic Companies) was held on June 12 and 13 in Brussels. Its theme was “New Horizons”, but it opened with a session largely dominated by a topic that seems to have blocked the cosmetic industry’s horizon for several years now: the debate on ingredients ...

Consumers
17 June 2019 Congress reports

Portrait of the new cosmetic consumer pro

Seducing the consumer? This is the question to which all brands would like to have the answer. Consumers are becoming increasingly difficult to attract because their habits are changing. During a day of conferences on the theme of “clean beauty”, the cosmetic ingredient distributor Ami Ingredients tried to analyse the ...

BASF's EcoSun Pass
12 June 2019 Congress reports

More eco-friendly sunscreens with BASF's EcoSun Pass pro

With widely diverging global regulations, increasingly controversial filters, whether due to their potential toxicity or their harmful effects on marine environments, consumer expectations for ever-increasing naturalness and safety… the formulation of sunscreen products is an increasingly difficult challenge. During the Ami’Days, organised on 4 June 2019 by the active ingredient supplier Ami Ingrédients ...

GMP: supplier quality control
05 June 2019 Congress reports

GMP: supplier quality control pro

Contractual relations with subcontractors and suppliers or control of the quality and release of raw materials are regularly among the critical points that motivate ANSM’s injunctions to cosmetic companies. During the Regulatory Meeting organized by Cosmed on March 21, 2019, Aymeric Lebon and Alexandre Enich, from the consulting firm Strategiqual ...

Guerlain
05 June 2019 Congress reports

Guerlain, all in transparency

Luxury cosmetics brands are often accused of being unspoken about their internal procedures or of not caring about environmental issues. Guerlain has decided to stand out and Sandrine Sommers, Head of CSR and Sustainable Development, presented the brand’s latest communication strategies in terms of sustainable development at the Beauty ...

Martin Foe
28 May 2019 Congress reports

Essential oils: the right packaging to avoid interactions pro

Ubiquitous in many consumer products, including cosmetics, essential oils are complex substances containing many active compounds. How to control their possible interactions with product packaging, which may have undesirable implications in terms of stability or toxicity? During the Cosmetic Days 2018 dedicated to essential oils, Martin Foe, from packaging supplier Aptar, came ...

UEBT
22 May 2019 Congress reports

UEBT 2019 Barometer: Biodiversity from Asia pro

For the eleventh consecutive year, the UEBT has unveiled the results of its biodiversity barometer at a conference held in Paris on 20 and 21 May 2019. This international study aims to measure consumer awareness of biodiversity, and how this affects purchasing decisions This year, the UEBT wanted to focus on Asia.

Yoann Fillatre
22 May 2019 Congress reports

How much pesticide in my essential oil? pro

Essential oils are plant extracts, whose cultivation does not necessarily exclude plant protection products… How many of them can be found once the extraction is completed, and in what proportions? Can this also apply to organic essential oils? During Cosmetic Days 2018, Yoann Fillatre, who conducted studies on the subject within ...

Packaging
20 May 2019 Congress reports

Packaging: an external sign of wealth

The packaging is thousands of years old. Since time immemorial, humans have invented containers to store and transport different types of goods. Over the ages, art has begun to influence the esthetics of packaging to the point of making it just as precious and beautiful as what it contains.

Alix Courivaud
13 May 2019 Congress reports

The French market for essential oils pro

They are widely talked about, praised for their properties, criticized for their allergenicity, pointed out by the control authorities when their claims are far too close to borders… But before being a subject of debate, essential oils are a real sector, from the cultivation of the plants from which they ...

Charlotte Bringer-Guérin
06 May 2019 Congress reports

REACH and essential oils pro

Cosmetics, food, biocide, medical devices… depending on their destinations, essential oils are governed by several different regulations. To add to the puzzle, they are also affected by the REACH Regulation. A Regulation that is quite complex to implement, especially for substances that are themselves characterised by their complexity. During the ...

Constantin Dallot
29 April 2019 Congress reports

Understanding everything at CMRs pro

What is a CMR? By what process is a harmonized classification of a substance achieved? What are the impacts in cosmetics? During the Regulatory Meeting organized by Cosmed on March 21, 2019, Constantin Dallot, toxicologist expert and consultant of ATOUT REACH, came to explain the concepts necessary to fully understand CMRs.

Catherine Apolinario and Marie Magnan
24 April 2019 Congress reports

International cosmetic controls: the results of Cosmed's survey pro

How are cosmetic products exported abroad controlled by the national authorities of the different countries? At the March 2019 International Meeting, Catherine Apolinario and Marie Magnan presented the results of the survey conducted by Cosmed in 2018 among the cosmetics industry. The aim was to measure the extent of the presence of French companies ...

Jean-Marc Giroux
17 April 2019 Congress reports

Essential oils and endocrine disruption pro

With regard to the endocrine system, are essential oils active or disruptive substances? It is to this question that Jean-Marc Giroux, Doctor of Pharmacy, Toxicologist Pharmacologist and also President of Cosmed, wanted to answer during the Cosmetic Days 2018 dedicated to essential oils. Stressing that the issue, in the context of regulatory ...

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15 April 2019 Congress reports

DGCCRF: Market surveillance 2017, 2018 and 2019 pro

During the Regulatory Meeting organised by Cosmed on 21 March 2019, Catherine Argoyti and Céline Nowak presented the actions of the DGCCRF in terms of cosmetic product controls. The main topics were: labelling of nanomaterials, relations between principals and subcontractors, safety assessors, “Free-from…” claims and the control programme for 2019.

François-Victor Noir
10 April 2019 Congress reports

E-commerce in China: key figures and main players pro

The easiest way to export cosmetics to China is certainly to use the Internet, whether through traditional or cross-border e-commerce. During the International Meeting organized by Cosmed on March 22, 2019, François-Victor Noir, Export Business Manager Art of Living and Health of the Business France Office in Shanghai, gave the main ...

art and cosmetic
10 April 2019 Congress reports

History of art and beauty: a thousand-year-old proximity

“When art inspires cosmetic innovation” was the theme chosen for the 10th edition of the U’Cosmetics student competition. If the subject seems extremely vast, the relationship between art and cosmetics is far from new. Since time immemorial, the canons of beauty and aesthetics have been largely inspired by the artistic ...

Vanessa Picot
08 April 2019 Congress reports

French ANSM: the results of the 2018 inspections pro

At the Regulatory Meeting organised by Cosmed on 21 March 2019, Vanessa Picot, Cosmetics Inspector of the French ANSM, presented the results of the Agency’s inspections during 2018 and detailed its expectations regarding the non-conformities noted. On the agenda: cosmetics to be personalised, products used by beauty professionals, GMP non-conformities… and at the end ...

Salvatore d'Acunto
01 April 2019 Congress reports

European regulatory news: an update by Salvatore D'Acunto pro

As usual, Salvatore D’Acunto, Head of Unit - Health Technologies and Cosmetics of the European Commission, spoke at the Regulatory Meetings organised by Cosmed on 21 March 2019, to present the progress of cosmetic regulatory dossiers. No big announcement, but the work that has been going on for several years is still ongoing.

Hélène Chaumont
12 March 2019 Congress reports

Overview of the regulations applicable to essential oils pro

At the opening of the Cosmed’s CosmeticDays 2018 dedicated to essential oils, Hélène Chaumont, from Puressentiel, presented a review of the regulations applicable to them, in Europe according to the different statuses of finished products (cosmetic, biocide…), as well as in Switzerland and Canada. With, at the end of her lecture ...

FEBEA's press workshop on endocrine disruptors
06 March 2019 Congress reports

Endocrine disruptors explained by the FEBEA (3/3) pro

The issue of endocrine disruption is a real public health issue, which political and health authorities have begun to consider as such. But pending the concrete results of the various action plans undertaken, should consumers fear the identified or suspected “endocrine disrupting substances” in their daily products, and in particular ...

FEBEA's press workshop on endocrine disruptors
26 Feb. 2019 Congress reports

Endocrine disruptors explained by the FEBEA (2/3) pro

Complex substances, difficult to characterize, potentially dangerous to human health, endocrine disruptors are of concern to consumers. Especially since they often feel that political and health authorities remain powerless to manage the risk they represent and do nothing to protect them. However, action plans have been initiated, both at European ...

Antoine Descamps
20 Feb. 2019 Congress reports

Brexit: the French tools to be prepared pro

On 17 January 2019, the French government launched the “Plan related to a Brexit without agreement”. For some time now, the possibility of an exit of the United Kingdom from the European Union without transition has been less and less ruled out, and incentives for companies to do so have been increasing. At ...

FEBEA's press workshop on endocrine disruptors
19 Feb. 2019 Congress reports

Endocrine disruptors explained by the FEBEA (1/3) pro

The problem is a major concern for French people, but who knows exactly what we are talking about? Which substances have an endocrine disrupting action? How do they act and with what effects? What are political and health authorities doing to reduce risks? And what share do cosmetics have in ...

ADF:PCD's logo
12 Feb. 2019 Congress reports

Moving towards more environmentally friendly plastic packaging pro

The qualities of plastic are no longer to be praised, but its disastrous effects on the environment are no longer to be proven either. While it is not easy for manufacturers, including cosmetic manufacturers, to put a stop to it, eco-responsible alternatives exist. A conference was devoted to this subject ...

Gaëlle Saint-James and Alexandre Glatz
11 Feb. 2019 Congress reports

Brexit: legal implications pro

Contracts, intellectual property, data protection, distribution… many aspects of the legal sphere can also be affected by Brexit. And it will be all the more rapid if the scenario of a No-Deal, an exit of the United Kingdom from the European Union without agreement, is confirmed. At the information meeting ...

Manuela Coroama
31 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetic claims from a European perspective pro

While, in France, the new provisions resulting from the European Technical Document on Cosmetic Claims will apply, at least from a legal point of view, mainly through the new ARPP Recommendation “Cosmetic Products”, situations may vary in the other Member States of the Union. At the information meeting organised by ...

Julie Joseph and Anne Dux
31 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

The new ARPP Recommendation "Cosmetic Products": causes and consequences pro

The new ARPP Recommendation “Cosmetic Products”, or more precisely its 8th version, was published on 14 November 2018. With major changes in the rules for certain cosmetic claims. Julie Joseph, ARPP Legal Advisor, and Anne Dux, Director of Scientific and Regulatory Affairs at FEBEA, detailed the changes made to the text and explained their ...

Érica Mennesson
30 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

Why an 8th revision of the ARPP Recommendation "Cosmetic Products"? pro

In France, self-regulation of cosmetic claims is the responsibility of the ARPP, particularly through its Recommendation “Cosmetic Products”. Its last version, the seventh one, was dated 2013. The eighth was published on 14 November 2018. During the information meeting on cosmetic claims organized by the FEBEA, Erica Mennesson, Director of Quality, Regulatory Affairs and ...

Loïc Armand
30 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

The interest of professional regulations in advertising pro

At the opening of the information meeting organised by the FEBEA on 16 January 2019 on claims, Loïc Armand, President of Cosmetics Europe and ARPP Director, recalled the role of professional self-regulation and the positive results it can boast of in terms of advertising. With one main message: a well integrated domestic law is ...

Emmanuelle Gidoin
30 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

Brexit: the implications for customs pro

As the “No-deal” scenario (the United Kingdom’s exit from the European Union on 30 March 2019 without agreement) becomes increasingly feared, voices are being raised from all sides to urge companies to be prepared for its consequences. Beyond the regulatory or legal implications, Brexit will also have an impact on the passage of ...

Georges Favre
29 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

Nanomaterials: the right characterization to comply with regulations pro

The idea is widespread that there are currently insufficient analytical methods available to characterize nanomaterials and adequately address the requirement for labelling of nano-ingredients in cosmetic products. An idea that Georges Favre, Director of the LNE Nanotech Institute, wanted to break new ground at the 16th Cosmetic Valley Perfumes and Cosmetics ...