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July 22, 2019 | Congress reports

Cosmetic ingredients: how to innovate despite the constraints pro

Regulatory or market-imposed restrictions, safety and security requirements when tools are lacking to evaluate them… the framework for the use of cosmetic raw materials is increasingly constrained. How then to develop innovation, this major driver of the cosmetics sector? During a day of conferences organized by Cosmetic Valley on June 20, 2019, Adama Traoré, Johnson & Johnson Group’s safety assessor, recalled the basics and gave some keys to continue to move forward.

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FEBEA information meeting on cosmetic claims
23 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

FEBEA information meeting "New rules for cosmetic claims": the Q&A session pro

On 16 January 2019, FEBEA organised an information meeting on the new rules applicable to cosmetic claims as from next 1 July. After explaining why, how and with what implications the ARPP Recommendation Cosmetics Products had been updated following the publication of the European Technical Document on Cosmetic Claims, Anne Dux, Director of Scientific and ...

Anne-Marie Breton & Armand Guyon
23 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

Critical regulatory developments around the world pro

The United Kingdom and its Brexit, China and the United States are not the only countries in the world where regulatory developments are impacting the cosmetics sector. During the 16th Cosmetic Valley Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress, Anne-Marie Breton and Armand Guyon, FEBEA’s International Regulatory Affairs Officers, gave a world tour ...

Gerald Renner
07 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

Packaging safety assessment: the latest developments pro

How does packaging affect the safety of the cosmetic product, what information must be made available by the supplier to enable this impact to be assessed in accordance with the requirements of the Cosmetics Regulation? Cosmetics Europe has developed Guidelines on the exchange of information throughout the value chain. Gerald ...

Olivia Santoni & Emma Trogen
04 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

The impacts of Brexit on cosmetic companies pro

Nothing is simple when it comes to Brexit. Neither the political negotiations nor the management of the impacts that the withdrawal of the United Kingdom will have on companies, including in the cosmetics sector. While there are still as many questions on this subject as there are initial answers, Emma ...

Pamela Bloor and Sylvie Cupferman
03 Jan. 2019 Congress reports

Preserving preservatives: the Cosmetics Europe action plan pro

They are suspicious in the eyes of consumers and at the heart of the attention of the authorities, who are tending to regulate and limit them more and more. Faced with the ever-increasing threats targeting them, the cosmetics industry has decided to defend its preservatives. At the 16th Cosmetic Valley Perfumes ...

Emmanuelle Amsler
19 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

The value of cosmetovigilance pro

Article 23 of the Cosmetics Regulation requires the communication of serious adverse reactions related to the use of cosmetics to the control authorities. Sometimes perceived as a constraint, this obligation is also of interest to companies. At least this is the postulate defended by Emmanuelle Amsler, dermato-allergologist, at the Perfumes & Cosmetics ...

Anne Dux
18 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

Perfumes: the regulatory requirements pro

Alcohol, fragrance composition and its related ingredients… a perfume is a particular cosmetic product, which depends of course on Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, but also on other regulatory frameworks. It must therefore meet very specific requirements, as detailed by Anne Dux, FEBEA’s Director of Scientific and Regulatory Affairs, in charge ...

18 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

Reduce surfactants? The Greentech's solution pro

When it’s less, it’s better? This is sometimes also true in cosmetics. Raw material suppliers are therefore competing with each other in their imaginations to develop multifunctional ingredients to reduce the weight of formulas. Magali Cabannes, formulator for Greentech, presented the innovations of her company during the third ...

Tiphaine Daubert-Macia
17 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

United States: towards a tightening of cosmetics regulations? pro

Unlike some countries, the cosmetics regulations in the United States are considered to be quite flexible. This “laxity” is not to the liking of some American legislators who intend to tighten the rulese. At the Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress, held in Chartres on November 14 and 15, Tiphaine Daubert-Macia, Expert in cosmetic regulation ...

12 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

ANSM: review of inspections in 2018 pro

At the Chartres congress organised by de la Cosmetic Valley, which took place on 14 and 15 November 2018, the supervisory authorities are still taking the floor. The ANSM, represented by Julien Dupont, Head of the Market Surveillance Inspection Unit, and Manuella Boutillier, Cosmetics Inspector, presented its actions and an initial review of the controls ...

11 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

Safety assessment, Brexit, International regulations: the FEBEA's answers pro

The last part of the report of the traditional Q&A session, which closes the Cosmetic Valley Perfumes and Cosmetics Congress every year. The FEBEA’s scientific, regulatory, environmental and international affairs experts answered the congress participants’ questions regarding the cosmetic product safety assessment, but also concerns raised by Brexit and ...

05 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

Controversial ingredients, Cosmetics Regulation and ISO Standard16128: the FEBEA's answers pro

During the traditional Q&A that closes the Cosmetic Valley Perfumes and Cosmetics Congress every year, FEBEA’s scientific, regulatory, environmental and international affairs experts answered the delegates’ questions with open arms. Many focused on ingredients that have become “sensitive” in the news, on labelling rules or the ISO standard 16128 on natural ...

Raniero de Stasio
03 Dec. 2018 Congress reports

When cosmetic ingredients are governed by other regulations pro

It is not absurd to think that the ingredients used in cosmetic products are totally governed by Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, its provisions and obviously its annexes providing a sufficiently precise and exhaustive framework. However, this is sometimes not the case, and some other regulations, particularly the CLP and REACH Regulations ...

27 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

Cosmetic claims: the FEBEA's answers during Cosmetic Valley's Congress pro

No less than 19 questions on the theme of cosmetic claims were asked by participants to the FEBEA’s scientific, regulatory, environmental and international affairs experts during the traditional Question and Answer session, which closes the Cosmetic Valley Perfumes and Cosmetics Congress every year. With a particular focus on the “Free from ...

Ambroise Pascal et Céline Nowak
26 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

Review of DGCCRF's 2017/2018 controls pro

As every year, the first day of the Perfumes & Cosmetics congress, which was held in Chartres on November 14 and 15, 2018, ended with the intervention of the control authorities. The DGCCRF, represented by Ambroise Pascal, Head of the Bureau of Health Products and Human Services and Céline Nowak, Editor in charge ...

Export to China
21 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

China: on the road to new regulations (2/2) pro

Complex regulations, burdensome administrative procedures, some of the longest registration times in the world, impossibility of using new ingredients… we know that exporting cosmetic products to China is no easy task today. But things are changing… new, easier ways have opened up via e-commerce or free zones like Pudong. And ...

Julie Joseph, ARPP, & Raffaella Berioli, FEBEA
20 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

Claims: the new rules for cosmetic products pro

The 8th version of the Recommendation Cosmetic Products was adopted by the ARPP Board of Directors on 17 October 2018. On the same day it was published online, November 14, during the 16th Cosmetic Valley Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress, Julie Joseph, Legal Advisor, Head of Ethics Rules Update at ARPP and Raffaella Berioli, Scientific and Regulatory ...

20 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

Minimalist cosmetics: what's new in the United States and South Korea?

The trend may be well established, but it is still declining. Cosmetic minimalism has many facets and many of them come from the other side of the globe. During the third Formul’Tech organised by the CED on 30 October 2018 in Lyon, Elina Tran, project manager at Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation and Amélia ...

Salvatore d'Acunto
19 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

European regulatory news pro

Endocrine disrupters, CMR, nanos, preservatives, allergens, claims, ingredient glossary… At the 16th Cosmetic Valley Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress, Salvatore d’Acunto, Head of Unit - Health Technologies and Cosmetics of DG Grow (European Commission), provided an update on European regulatory developments and gave some ideas on what to expect for 2019.

Jest's logo
19 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

Seppic's alternatives to silicones in cosmetics pro

Widely used in cosmetics, silicones give cosmetics an emollient feel and are also beneficial to the skin. However, their use is controversial given their negative impact on the environment, and for some, on human health. Replacing them therefore becomes a priority. Sabrina Mizael, Seppic’s Emollient Product Manager, presented the ...

Export to China
14 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

China: on the road to new regulations (1/2) pro

Will things finally move in China? For so long, we have been waiting for a more flexible regulation that would facilitate exports to this country, we are counting on the fingers of one hand the new ingredients accepted by the authorities, we are desperate about registration deadlines and eventually, we ...

07 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

Minimalism takes over cosmetics pro

More and more consumers now are demanding ethical products from the cosmetics industry that are good for their skin and nature. Professionals in the sector can only be attentive to these expectations. Sébastien Mendes, marketing engineer at Gattefossé, presented one of the answers with his vision of minimalism in cosmetics ...

Mathilde Lion - NPD
06 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

Prestige fragrances: trends and outlooks pro

During a conference given at LuxePack Monaco 2018, Mathilde Lion, Europe Industry Beauty Expert of the market research firm NPD, presented the trends in the Prestige fragrance market in Europe and North America. An opportunity to highlight the drivers of growth and the resulting opportunities for companies.

Tailor-made cosmetics
05 Nov. 2018 Congress reports

"Tailor-made" in cosmetics: an unavoidable trend pro

“Personalization”, everyone swears by that term nowadays. Faced with the plethoric cosmetic offer, more and more consumers are looking for treatments that are specifically suited to their skin problem. The cosmetics industry intends to respond to the needs of its customers. Lætitia Tetedoux, marketing consultant, gave an update on the ...

Prepare for Brexit
29 Oct. 2018 Congress reports

Brexit in practice: what to be prepared for… now! pro

On either side of the Channel, the arrival of the Brexit, and the uncertainties surrounding it, continue to worry. As a “Hard Brexit” (an exit of the United Kingdom from the European Union without an agreement) is less and less excluded, it is high time for companies to prepare for ...

Artificial intelligence
22 Oct. 2018 Congress reports

When beauty meets artificial intelligence pro

At first glance, the beauty sector is not the most technophile, but it would be a good idea to reconsider. Indeed, the advantages of artificial intelligence are constantly being highlighted. At the Beauty Day, organized by the CEW on July 4 in Paris, Charles Dadi, Machine Learner and Partner at Factonics, explained ...

Dr. Meike Gebhard at the Naturkosmetik Branchen-kongress 2018
10 Oct. 2018 Congress reports

Natural and organic cosmetics: the growth drivers pro

How do consumers perceive natural and organic cosmetics and what are the profiles of those who are convinced of their interests? What are the motivations that guide them towards more responsible purchasing behaviour? What opportunities do the new generations offer to brands and distributors? At the Naturkosmetik Branchen-kongress (Conference on ...

Green chemistry
09 Oct. 2018 Congress reports

Industrials, monitor your impact on the environment! pro

Today, no one can ignore anymore the worrying state of the planet. Everyone is responsible for this issue, including the beauty industries. Pascale Rossi, Croda’s technical manager, presented the various actions that companies can take to have a positive impact on the environment at the 18th JEST organised by Cosmed ...

Insagram's logo
08 Oct. 2018 Congress reports

When Instagram dictates its law pro

No one escapes anymore the flood of social networks, not even the industry. Not only have they changed the way we communicate and consume, they also require beauty professionals to rethink innovation. Nilufar Khalessi, an expert in trends and founder of the Darius office, explained how Instagram is changing the ...

Cosmed's JEST 2018
02 Oct. 2018 Congress reports

Cosmetics: when less is more… but how? pro

Recurrent doubts about the safety of some ingredients, repeated denunciations of the hazards that cosmetics would represent for health and the environment by various NGOs or consumer associations: the time has come to question traditional cosmetics and seek solutions to reassure and regain confidence while being more responsible. One of ...

01 Oct. 2018 Congress reports

How to whisper in the ear of the 50-year-olds

Skin aging is no longer the number one public enemy. From now on, it is the pro-age (or aging well) that is in high demand, and that is good. But this trend to better accept the horrors of time is relatively recent and cosmetic brands do not necessarily have all ...

Z&Q Generations
26 Sept. 2018 Congress reports

Z&Q Generations: when semiology is involved

Z, Q,…For each age group a letter, a denomination and very specific characteristics. The beauty industry has also been involved in this segmentation. But what does it really mean? At the Beauty Day organized by the CEW on July 4 in Paris, Ariane Goldet, journalist, spoke with Anthony Mathé, semiologist, for ...

Marc-Antoine Jamet
25 Sept. 2018 Congress reports

When Marc-Antoine Jamet and Cosmetic Valley talk about them pro

If there is one name that many in the cosmetics industry know, it is his. But do we really know who he is? Marc-Antoine Jamet, Secretary General of the LVMH group and President of Cosmetic Valley, spoke at a networking session organized by the CEW in Paris on September 11, 2018.

Old woman
18 Sept. 2018 Congress reports

Smile, you're getting old!

Until now, the cosmetics industry has not yet found a way to stop skin ageing. Instead of mourning and bitterly regretting our early years, why not take an opposite approach? Good news, it’s called pro-age, it’s trendy and it’s exactly what’s happening for people over 50.

10 Sept. 2018 Congress reports

Generation Y is dead. Long live to generation Z! pro

While the beauty planet had eyes only for them, the Millenials’ reign is over. For whose benefit? From their youngest children! Generation X, which refers to individuals aged 15 to 22, is an industry passion. However, to attract her favours, you still have to know her….

04 Sept. 2018 Congress reports

Why do some people look younger than their age?

Who would not like to know the secret to looking younger? At the 6th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference held in London on June 5-6, 2018, Dr David Gunn, of Unilever, presented the results of his research on the factors impacting the appearance of an individual and his/her age perceived by others ...

Philippe Berlan
04 Sept. 2018 Congress reports

Beauty & e-commerce: marketplaces are reinventing themselves pro

It is not easy to become a marketplace that sells beauty products. You need to stand out from your competitors and offer a different experience from what consumers get in retail. And yet, it is not impossible. Indeed, Philippe Berlan, Deputy Director-General of La Redoute, came to the E-Beauty conference ...

03 Sept. 2018 Congress reports

The cosmetics industry under pressure pro

Manufacturing and placing cosmetic products on the market is not a bed of roses… At the Journée de la Beauté organized by CEW on July 4, 2018 in Paris, Laurence Wittner, editor of CosmeticOBS, was invited to provide an overview of the context in which manufacturers and formulators work today… and of ...

28 Aug. 2018 Congress reports

E-commerce: prestige beauty is lagging behind!

It is well-known that e-commerce revolutionized consumption patterns in many ways. What about the beauty industry? How are prestige cosmetics sales doing online? Mathilde Lion, industry analyst and Director of Beauty Europe of the NPD Group, dissected this issue at the E-Beauty day organized by JDN last June 7, 2018 in Paris.

27 Aug. 2018 Congress reports

Cosmetics inspired by new forms of awareness pro

Largely modelled by science revolutions, our awareness of the world surrounding us is constantly changing. New knowledge and information are relayed at an extremely fast pace, impacting our vision of things. Cosmetics cannot but follow these contemporary movements. At the Journée de la Beauté organized by CEW on July 4, 2018 in ...

23 July 2018 Congress reports

The list of ingredients and its digital future pro

Technology is revolutionizing means of communication, playing an increasingly more intimate part in consumers’ lives. Can this new digital situation solve the labelling issues the cosmetics industry is facing? At least, that is what Cosmetics Europe has been working on, taking several actions to promote the digital list of ingredients ...

Dr Bianca McCarthy at the 6th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference
06 July 2018 Congress reports

The role of vitamin D in skin protection pro

At the 6th Anti-Ageing Skin Care Conference held in London on June 5-6, 2018, Dr Bianca McCarthy, of the University of Sydney, Australia, presented her research on the photoprotective and anti-skin aging effects of vitamin D and similar compounds. Her work shed a new light on the processes inducing UV-related DNA damages ...