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Nov. 19, 2019 | Congress reports

Flexit: what it changes for Brexit pro

At the end of October, a further postponement of Brexit, the United Kingdom’s exit from the European Union, was validated. A “flexible” postponement which must be effective by 31 January 2020 at the latest, but which can in theory take place at the end of each month by then. At the Cosmetic Valley Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress, held in Chartres on November 6 and 7, 2019, Emma Meredith of the British CTPA (Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association) and Emma Trogen of Cosmetics Europe presented the new deal of this Flexit.

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Flexit: what it changes for Brexit
19 Nov. 2019 Congress reports

Flexit: what it changes for Brexit pro

At the end of October, a further postponement of Brexit, the United Kingdom’s exit from the European Union, was validated. A “flexible” postponement which must be effective by 31 January 2020 at the latest, but which can in theory take place at the end of each month by then. At the Cosmetic Valley Perfumes ...

Salvatore D'Acunto
18 Nov. 2019 Congress reports

Regulatory news from the European Commission pro

It has become a regular rendez vous for cosmetic regulatory conferences and Salvatore D’Acunto doesn’t miss one. As every year, during the Cosmetic Valley Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress held in Chartres on 6 and 7 November 2019, the Head of Unit of DG Grow presented the current dossiers at the European Commission (CMR, nanos, endocrine ...

How to increase the recyclability of packaging?
13 Nov. 2019 Congress reports

How to increase the recyclability of packaging? pro

The issue of packaging and its environmental impact is part of consumers’ complaints to the industry. They do not only want a cleaner cosmetic, they also demand that it be more respectful of nature… and this obviously goes through the pack. During the JEST 2019 organized by Cosmed, Claire Pelletier, project manager ...

A world tour of the natural cosmetics markets
13 Nov. 2019 Congress reports

A world tour of the natural cosmetics markets pro

Natural and organic cosmetics are doing well. This is the statement made at the Natural Cosmetics Conference held in Berlin at the end of September 2019, where Elfriede Dambacher (Naturkosmetik konzepte), Melanie Schriever (Mixed Greens) and Moritz Aebersold (Contura Consulting) proposed a world tour of the natural cosmetics markets, to highlight ...

Regulatory news: the 10 announcements of the Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress
12 Nov. 2019 Congress reports

Regulatory news: the 10 announcements of the Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress pro

During the Cosmetic Valley Perfumes & Cosmetics Congress, held in Chartres on November 6 and 7, 2019, the 17 presentations and question and answer sessions on the program provided an opportunity for speakers to make some announcements. An additional preservative in Annex V to the Cosmetics Regulation, the new regulations to come for several ingredients (CMR, ...

Cosmetic claims: should you comply with the European Technical Document?
04 Nov. 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetic claims: should you comply with the European Technical Document? pro

Since its entry into force on 1 July 2019, the European Technical Document on Cosmetic Claims has been the subject of ongoing debate, if not controversy. And for each company, there is still the question of whether or not to comply with them, and in particular with the new rules it lays down ...

Sulphates: surfactants that are controversial
30 Oct. 2019 Congress reports

Sulphates: surfactants that are controversial pro

Sulphated surfactants are among the controversial ingredients of the moment, which leads some distribution chains (e. g. Biocoop) to refuse them in the products listed on their shelves. And they are particularly controversial in the organic sector, since, although not exactly natural, they are still authorized by the COSMOS standard. ...

A study on the dermal penetration of titanium dioxide
23 Oct. 2019 Congress reports

A study on the dermal penetration of titanium dioxide pro

Are titanium dioxide nanoparticles dangerous to human health? The question, which is the subject of debate, is crucial, and in particular for organic cosmetics, since TiO2 is one of the only two UV filters authorized by its standards. This is why the Odysud laboratory, which develops organic sunscreens from the Acorelle ...

CSR in action
23 Oct. 2019 Congress reports

CSR at the SME scale pro

This acronym (Corporate Social Responsibility) can be found on all communication media of companies wishing to show that they are in step with sustainable development. But in practice, what is CSR? At a conference held on October 1 at Luxe Pack Monaco, Laëtitia Tetedoux, Marketing Director at Agrimer, illustrated this through the ...

Ingredients: the issues of organic cosmetics
16 Oct. 2019 Congress reports

Ingredients: the issues of organic cosmetics pro

For a long time, organic cosmetics has been protected from the climate of mistrust that has developed among consumers regarding the safety of cosmetic ingredients. This is no longer the case today, far from it. Nanoparticles, titanium dioxide, sulphated surfactants, preservatives… are on the spot like petrochemical or synthetic ingredients. ...

Silicones, Phenoxyethanol, Sulfates: Which are the natural alternatives?
15 Oct. 2019 Congress reports

Silicones, Phenoxyethanol, Sulfates: Which are the natural alternatives? pro

Some raw materials used in cosmetic products are victims of a real witch hunt, rightly or wrongly. This crisis of confidence is forcing the industry to review its formulation methods and turn to more naturalness. During the JEST 2019, organized by Cosmed on September 27th in Montpellier, Sabrina Pappatico, development manager at ...

What does commitment mean?
02 Oct. 2019 Congress reports

What does commitment mean? pro

We see it everywhere, it is willingly invited on product packaging or brand advertising media: commitment is in vogue. But by using too much of a word, we sometimes forget a little its meaning. A short class on lexicology with semiologist Anthony Mathé, on the occasion of Beauty Day, organised ...

Towards a more conscious retailing?
26 Aug. 2019 Congress reports

Towards a more conscious retailing? pro

In the green revolution we are experiencing, distributors are also in the consumers’ sights. On the occasion of the Beauty Day organized on July 25 by CEW France, Candice Colin, founder of Beautylitic, and Damien Pelle, Director of Sustainable Development of the Galeries Lafayette Group, came to explain how to ensure cleaner ...

Nadège Testa and Nelly Van Chinh
24 July 2019 Congress reports

Labelling of essential oils and products containing them pro

Due to their multiple properties, and the almost as many regulations on which they may depend, essential oils, but also the products containing them, are often quite delicate to label. During the Aromadays, organised by Cosmed in Avignon on 4 and 5 July 2019, Nelly Van Chinh and Nadège Testa, from Naturakem, gave instructions for ...

Coherence and environment: a new challenge for the cosmetics industry
23 July 2019 Congress reports

Coherence and environment: a new challenge for the cosmetics industry pro

Pascale Brousse’s commitment to natural beauty issues is not new. For more than 20 years, the founder of the Trendsourcing agency has been calling on the cosmetics sector on this subject. It is on the scene of the Beauty Day, organized on June 25 in Paris by CEW France, that she recommended to the ...

Adama Traoré
22 July 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetic ingredients: how to innovate despite the constraints pro

Regulatory or market-imposed restrictions, safety and security requirements when tools are lacking to evaluate them… the framework for the use of cosmetic raw materials is increasingly constrained. How then to develop innovation, this major driver of the cosmetics sector? During a day of conferences organized by Cosmetic Valley on June 20, 2019, ...

Gaultier Massip
17 July 2019 Congress reports

Recycling, use of recycled material, reuse: towards circular packaging pro

Among all the requirements that exist today in the world of cosmetics, environmental constraints are increasingly at the heart of the news, and plastics are not the only materials concerned. During a day of conferences on the theme of consumer safety organized by Cosmetic Valley, Gaultier Massip, from CITEO, presented ...

2019 Seminary on Quality in the Cosmetics industry
17 July 2019 Congress reports

From approval to storage: the management of cosmetic raw materials pro

During the 2019 Seminary on Quality in the Cosmetics industry, organised by IFIS and FEBEA, Chrystelle Gatelier, Jean-Pierre Guidot and Marjorie Schambel, all three quality managers, respectively for the Guerlain, L’Oréal and Pierre Fabre groups, detailed the procedures for the proper management of raw materials used in cosmetic products, based, of course, ...

Sylvie Gallage-Alwis
16 July 2019 Congress reports

Essential oils in court pro

The determination of the status of products containing essential oils is often quite delicate, but particularly important because it determines the regulations applicable to them and their legal qualification. During the two-day Aromadays conference, organised by Cosmed in Avignon on 4 and 5 July 2019, Sylvie Gallage-Alwis, lawyer at Signature Litigation, detailed the main sources ...

CSR: a new way to create value
15 July 2019 Congress reports

CSR: a new way to create value pro

The theme of engagement was at the heart of the third edition of la Journée de la Beauté, organized in Paris on June 25 by the CEW. Cosmetic companies are expected by consumers and civil society to take social, ethical and environmental positions. Moreover, these commitments could even increase the value of ...

Françoise Audebert
10 July 2019 Congress reports

Methods for reducing microbial load pro

The challenges of preserving a cosmetic product are such that sometimes… its formula does not pass the challenge-test… To save a batch contaminated by microorganisms from the dumpster, the last resort may be a treatment such as sterilization or irradiation. Techniques that can be used in cosmetics, but which are ...

Brands/consumers relationship: instructions for use
09 July 2019 Congress reports

Brands/consumers relationship: instructions for use pro

As every year, the CEW organized the “Journée de la Beauté”, an event dedicated to professionals in the sector, to take stock of market trends and future challenges. For the third edition, held in Paris on 25 June 2019, the central theme was the notion of engagement. Stéphanie Gabriel, vice-president of the trend ...

Cosmetics sector: a major player in the French economy
08 July 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetics sector: a major player in the French economy pro

Futile, the cosmetics industry? Not so much… At its general meeting held in Paris on June 5, 2019, the FEBEA unveiled the results of a study conducted by Astères on the economic weight of beauty companies in France. The cosmetics industry actively contributes to the country’s wealth and influence.

You'll have some more fake news, won't you?
02 July 2019 Congress reports

You'll have some more fake news, won't you? pro

“300 dangerous cosmetics on the market”, “ingredients used by beauty manufacturers are unreliable”, “the use of skin care products can cause illness”, and many other such claims are in the minds of consumers. Even if the cosmetics industry has the tangible evidence to deconstruct them, they are persistent. At the FEBEA ...

Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of the Cosmetic Valley
26 June 2019 Congress reports

Cosmetics: safety in danger

On June 20, 2019, Cosmetic Valley organized a day of conferences on the theme of consumer safety. As Marc-Antoine Jamet, President of the Cosmetic Valley, mentioned in his introductory speech, and as Charles Reinier of Cosmepar and Gaël Gervais of Analytec subsequently demonstrated, with their analyses of the evolution of cosmetic formulas ...

Salvatore D'Acunto, Gerald Renner and Monique Goyens at CEAC 2019
24 June 2019 Congress reports

CEAC 2019: Safety in debate pro

The Annual Conference of Cosmetics Europe (Federation of European Cosmetic Companies) was held on June 12 and 13 in Brussels. Its theme was “New Horizons”, but it opened with a session largely dominated by a topic that seems to have blocked the cosmetic industry’s horizon for several years now: the debate on ingredients’ safety. ...

Consumers
17 June 2019 Congress reports

Portrait of the new cosmetic consumer pro

Seducing the consumer? This is the question to which all brands would like to have the answer. Consumers are becoming increasingly difficult to attract because their habits are changing. During a day of conferences on the theme of “clean beauty”, the cosmetic ingredient distributor Ami Ingredients tried to analyse the ...

BASF's EcoSun Pass
12 June 2019 Congress reports

More eco-friendly sunscreens with BASF's EcoSun Pass pro

With widely diverging global regulations, increasingly controversial filters, whether due to their potential toxicity or their harmful effects on marine environments, consumer expectations for ever-increasing naturalness and safety… the formulation of sunscreen products is an increasingly difficult challenge. During the Ami’Days, organised on 4 June 2019 by the active ingredient supplier Ami Ingrédients on ...

GMP: supplier quality control
05 June 2019 Congress reports

GMP: supplier quality control pro

Contractual relations with subcontractors and suppliers or control of the quality and release of raw materials are regularly among the critical points that motivate ANSM’s injunctions to cosmetic companies. During the Regulatory Meeting organized by Cosmed on March 21, 2019, Aymeric Lebon and Alexandre Enich, from the consulting firm Strategiqual, gave the ...

Guerlain
05 June 2019 Congress reports

Guerlain, all in transparency

Luxury cosmetics brands are often accused of being unspoken about their internal procedures or of not caring about environmental issues. Guerlain has decided to stand out and Sandrine Sommers, Head of CSR and Sustainable Development, presented the brand’s latest communication strategies in terms of sustainable development at the Beauty of ...

Martin Foe
28 May 2019 Congress reports

Essential oils: the right packaging to avoid interactions pro

Ubiquitous in many consumer products, including cosmetics, essential oils are complex substances containing many active compounds. How to control their possible interactions with product packaging, which may have undesirable implications in terms of stability or toxicity? During the Cosmetic Days 2018 dedicated to essential oils, Martin Foe, from packaging supplier Aptar, came ...

UEBT
22 May 2019 Congress reports

UEBT 2019 Barometer: Biodiversity from Asia pro

For the eleventh consecutive year, the UEBT has unveiled the results of its biodiversity barometer at a conference held in Paris on 20 and 21 May 2019. This international study aims to measure consumer awareness of biodiversity, and how this affects purchasing decisions This year, the UEBT wanted to focus on Asia.

Yoann Fillatre
22 May 2019 Congress reports

How much pesticide in my essential oil? pro

Essential oils are plant extracts, whose cultivation does not necessarily exclude plant protection products… How many of them can be found once the extraction is completed, and in what proportions? Can this also apply to organic essential oils? During Cosmetic Days 2018, Yoann Fillatre, who conducted studies on the subject within ...

Packaging
20 May 2019 Congress reports

Packaging: an external sign of wealth

The packaging is thousands of years old. Since time immemorial, humans have invented containers to store and transport different types of goods. Over the ages, art has begun to influence the esthetics of packaging to the point of making it just as precious and beautiful as what it contains.

Alix Courivaud
13 May 2019 Congress reports

The French market for essential oils pro

They are widely talked about, praised for their properties, criticized for their allergenicity, pointed out by the control authorities when their claims are far too close to borders… But before being a subject of debate, essential oils are a real sector, from the cultivation of the plants from which they ...

Charlotte Bringer-Guérin
06 May 2019 Congress reports

REACH and essential oils pro

Cosmetics, food, biocide, medical devices… depending on their destinations, essential oils are governed by several different regulations. To add to the puzzle, they are also affected by the REACH Regulation. A Regulation that is quite complex to implement, especially for substances that are themselves characterised by their complexity. During the ...

Constantin Dallot
29 April 2019 Congress reports

Understanding everything at CMRs pro

What is a CMR? By what process is a harmonized classification of a substance achieved? What are the impacts in cosmetics? During the Regulatory Meeting organized by Cosmed on March 21, 2019, Constantin Dallot, toxicologist expert and consultant of ATOUT REACH, came to explain the concepts necessary to fully understand CMRs.

Catherine Apolinario and Marie Magnan
24 April 2019 Congress reports

International cosmetic controls: the results of Cosmed's survey pro

How are cosmetic products exported abroad controlled by the national authorities of the different countries? At the March 2019 International Meeting, Catherine Apolinario and Marie Magnan presented the results of the survey conducted by Cosmed in 2018 among the cosmetics industry. The aim was to measure the extent of the presence of French companies ...

Jean-Marc Giroux
17 April 2019 Congress reports

Essential oils and endocrine disruption pro

With regard to the endocrine system, are essential oils active or disruptive substances? It is to this question that Jean-Marc Giroux, Doctor of Pharmacy, Toxicologist Pharmacologist and also President of Cosmed, wanted to answer during the Cosmetic Days 2018 dedicated to essential oils. Stressing that the issue, in the context of regulatory, ...

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15 April 2019 Congress reports

DGCCRF: Market surveillance 2017, 2018 and 2019 pro

During the Regulatory Meeting organised by Cosmed on 21 March 2019, Catherine Argoyti and Céline Nowak presented the actions of the DGCCRF in terms of cosmetic product controls. The main topics were: labelling of nanomaterials, relations between principals and subcontractors, safety assessors, “Free-from…” claims and the control programme for 2019.

François-Victor Noir
10 April 2019 Congress reports

E-commerce in China: key figures and main players pro

The easiest way to export cosmetics to China is certainly to use the Internet, whether through traditional or cross-border e-commerce. During the International Meeting organized by Cosmed on March 22, 2019, François-Victor Noir, Export Business Manager Art of Living and Health of the Business France Office in Shanghai, gave the main keys ...

art and cosmetic
10 April 2019 Congress reports

History of art and beauty: a thousand-year-old proximity

“When art inspires cosmetic innovation” was the theme chosen for the 10th edition of the U’Cosmetics student competition. If the subject seems extremely vast, the relationship between art and cosmetics is far from new. Since time immemorial, the canons of beauty and aesthetics have been largely inspired by the artistic trends ...