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Monday, June 20, 2022News

Endocrine disrupting ingredients in cosmetics

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The European Commission having concluded that the framework of Regulation 1223/2009 was sufficient to manage the risk that endocrine disruptors may represent in cosmetics, one might be tempted to bury their heads in the sand and ignore the fact that there can be a problem. But we also know that some substances suspected, and sometimes strongly suspected, of being so are still under evaluation. There is no doubt a number of consumers and associations representing them will increasingly target them – and that an equally high number of formulators would have scruples using ingredients that may have deleterious effects on the people that will use the products they develop. As a result, everyone can be tempted to avoid them, in particular by targeting the substances already proven to act or strongly suspected of acting as endocrine disruptors.

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Endocrine disruptors can be found in a wide range of consumer products. The list below only covers those that can be used in cosmetics and does not include substances already listed in Annex II to the Cosmetics Regulation (prohibited ingredients).
It was drawn up by crossing several sources:
Work done by IPCP (an international group of experts in chemical pollution) and initiated by the UN
list published by the European Commission
Call for data from the European Commission on endocrine disruptors
CoRAP programme for 2019-2021 and CoRAP programme for 2020-2022
• The Endocrine Disruptor Lists Website

Known or suspected endocrine disruptors

INCI CAS FUNCTION STATUS
Acetylcedrene 32388-55-9 Perfuming Not regulated
Acetyl hexamethyl tetralin 1506-02-1
21145-77-7
Masking Annex III/182
Forbidden in oral products
Maximum authorised concentration:
• Leave-on products: 0,1%, except: hydro alcoholic products: 1%, fine fragrance: 2.5%, fragrance cream: 0.5%
• Rinse-off products: 0,2 %
Benzophenone 119-61-9 Masking
UV absorber
Not regulated
Benzophenone-1 131-56-6 UV absorber Not regulated
Benzophenone-2 131-55-5 Masking
UV absorber
Not regulated
Benzophenone-3 131-57-7 UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/4
Maximum authorised concentration: 6%
Other condition: Not more than 0.5% to protect product formulation
Benzophenone-4 4065-45-6 UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/22
Maximum authorised concentration: 5% (as acid)
Benzophenone-5 6628-37-1 UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/22
Maximum authorised concentration: 5% (as acid)
Benzotriazole 95-14-7 Antimicrobial Not regulated
Benzyl salicylate 118-58-1 Perfuming
UV absorber
Annex III/75
The presence of the substance must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds:
• 0.001% in leave-on products
• 0001% in rinse-off products
BHA 25013-16-5 Antioxidant
Masking
Not regulated
BHT 128-37-0 Antioxidant
Masking
Not regulated
Butylparaben 94-26-8 Masking
Preservative
Annex V/12bis
Maximum authorised concentration:
• 0.14% (as acide)
• 0.8% for mixtures of parabens, the individual concentration of Butylparaben not exceeding 0.14%
t-Butyl methyl ether 1634-04-4 Solvent Not regulated
Butylphenyl methylpropional 80-54-6 Perfuming Annex III/83
The presence of the substance must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds:
• 0.001% in leave-on products
• 0001% in rinse-off products
Cyclomethicone 69430-24-6
556-67-2
541-02-6
540-97-6
Antistatic
Emollient
Hair Conditioning
Humectant
Solvent
Viscosity Controlling
Not regulated
Cyclopentasiloxane 541-02-6 Emollient
Hair Conditioning
Skin Conditioning
Solvent
Not regulated
Daidzein 486-66-8 Skin Conditioning Not regulated
Deltamethrin 52918-63-5 Not reported Not regulated
Dibromocyanoacetamide 10222-01-2 Antimicrobial Not regulated
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5466-77-3 UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/12
Maximum authorised concentration: 10%
Ethylhexyl salicylate 118-60-5 UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/20
Maximum authorised concentration: 5%
Ethylparaben 120-47-8 Preservative Annex V/12
Maximum authorised concentration:
• 0.4% (as acid) for single ester
• 0.8% (as acid) for mixtures of esters
Genistein 446-72-0 Skin Conditioning Not regulated
Hexamethylindanopyran 1222-05-5 Perfuming Not regulated
Homosalate 118-56-9 Skin Conditioning
UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/3
Maximum authorised concentration: 10%
Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate 71617-10-2 UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/14
Maximum authorised concentration: 10%
Kojic acid 501-30-4 Antioxidant Not regulated
MEK 78-93-3 Perfuming
Solvent
Not regulated
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor 36861-47-9
38102-62-4
UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/18
Maximum authorised concentration: 4%
Methylparaben 99-76-3 Preservative Annex V/12
Maximum authorised concentration:
• 0.4% (as acid) for single ester
• 0.8% (as acid) for mixtures of esters
Nitrophenol 88-75-5
100-02-7
554-84-7
25154-55-6
Hair Dyeing Not regulated
Octocrylene 6197-30-4 UV absorber
UV filter
Annex VI/10
Maximum authorised concentration: 10%
Propylparaben 94-13-3 Perfuming
Preservative
Annex V/12bis
Maximum authorised concentration:
• 0.14% (as acide)
• 0.8% for mixtures of parabens, the individual concentration of Propylparaben not exceeding 0.14%
Resorcinol 108-46-3 Antioxidant
Denaturant
Hair Dyeing
Perfuming
Annex III/22
Maximum authorised concentration:
• As an oxidising colouring for hair dyeing: 5%
• In hair lotions and shampoos: 0.5%
Other condition: Not to be used to dye eyelashes or eyebrows
Salicylic acid 69-72-7 Antidandruff Agent
Hair Conditioning Agent
Keratolytic Agent
Antiacne Agent
Masking
Denaturant
Preservative
Skin Conditioning Agent
Fragrance Ingredient
Annex III/98
Maximum authorised concentration:
• Rinse-off hair products: 3%
• Other products: 2%
Other condition: Not to be used in preparations for children under 3 years of age, except for shampoos


Annex V/3
Maximum authorised concentration: 0.5%
Other condition: Not to be used in preparations for children under 3 years of age, except for shampoos
Thiabendazole 148-79-8 Antimicrobial Not regulated
Triclocarban 101-20-2 Deodorant
Preservative
Annex III/100
Forbidden in leave-on products
Maximum authorised concentration in rinse-off products: 1.5%
Other condition: Purity criteria - 3, 3’, 4, 4’-Tetrachloroazobenzene<=1ppm; 3, 3’, 4, 4’-Tetrachloroazoxybenzene<=1ppm

Annex V/23
Maximum authorised concentration: 0.5%
Other condition: Purity criteria - 3, 3’, 4, 4’-Tetrachloroazobenzene<=1ppm; 3, 3’, 4, 4’-Tetrachloroazoxybenzene<=1ppm
Triclosan 3380-34-5 Deodorant
Preservative
Annex V/25
Maximum authorised concentration:
• Toothpastes, hand soaps, body soaps/shower gels, deodorants (non-spray), face powders and blemish concealers, nail products for cleaning the fingernails and toenails before the application of artificial nail systems: 0.3%
• Mouthwashes: 0.2%
Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide 75980-60-8 Skin Conditioning Not regulated
Triphenyl phosphate 115-86-6 Plasticiser Not regulated
LW
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