CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
Sept. 4, 2014Focus on French Launches

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The Observatory of Cosmetics

There are the very strong, borderline dermato, and the very soft ones that can be used almost every day. In new powder, foam or lotion textures, featuring chemical or enzymatic exfoliation: the grain has definitely bad press! From the softest to the most powerful, an overview of cosmetic exfoliants for the face in September.

Reading time : ~ 7 minutes

Microexfoliating powders

Inspired by Japanese rituals, these powders of a new kind (between cleaning and scrubbing), are one of the strong trends of the moment. The ancestor of this type of product is the Kanebo Silk Powder Peeling (40 g, 79 €). Dermalogica followed in 2011 with its Daily Microfoliant (75 g, 66.35 €). Similar to talc, these powders contain enzymes (rice, papaya or pineapple), clay or AHA (salicylic acid in the head), which gently remove dead cells and impurities. Mix them with a little water in the palm of the hand before foaming them on the moistened face. Some can be used on a daily basis, even on sensitive skins, such as L'Art du Soin de Diptyque Purity Face Powder (40 g, 45 €), based on white clay and flower petal powders (rose, jasmine, orange blossom) that are foamed with a small black foam ball. This is also the case with Hydra Sparkling Instant Radiance Powder, Givenchy's Micropeeling Cleansing Care (30 g, 40 € sprinkling bottle), which contains fruit acids (AHA and BHA), coupled with allantoin to soothe the epidermis. Or Alpha H Gentle Daily Exfoliating (50 g, 37.50 €) with pineapple and papaya enzymes. In the certified organic brands, One Love Organics offers a powder with fruit enzymes and organic pea flour, which acts as a daily scrub or weekly mask (Brand New Day Masque & Micro Exfoliant, 60 ml, 39 €). Others Exfoliating cleansing powders should be used once a week, such as the Sephora Metamorphose Exfoliating Powder (salt shaker 40 g, 13.95 €), rich in salicylic acid. For daily use, it can also be mixed with its usual cleaner. As for the Pure Fect Skin 2 in 1 Pore Mask, a deep extractor & micro-exfoliating Biotherm clay and fossil mask (75 ml, 24 €), intended for normal to oily skin, it dries in one minute and reveals an exfoliating action when rinsed. Its white clay detoxifies and cleans deeply, and its microexfoliating fossil algae (diatoms) tighten pores when drying. They allow a fine exfoliation and high precision because their particles display a diameter three times smaller than the pores of an oily skin.

Grain-free scrub creams or gels

Typical institute brands that use them in their facial care protocols in the cabin, their creamy texture does not"scratch" the epidermis and requires to be gently massaged on very dry skin, before being rinsed. Very gentle, the grain-free scrub creams still allow a deep cleaning. Their frequency of use varies according to skin type: 2 times a month for reactive skin, once a week for normal skin, 2 or 3 times a week for oily skin. If Esthederm was the first to offer this type of product (Osmoclean Gentle Scrub Cream, 50 ml, 29.80 €), followed by Sothys which has just released a vintage edition of its Deep Cleansing Desquacrem with gypsophila extract (50 ml, 29.50 €), it is the turn of Institut Arnaud to launch its Zero Abrasion Scrub Cream (75 ml, 12 €). The Hadamaru Japanese Gentle Exfoliant (120 g bottle, 38.40 €, at Parashop) is a gel that absorbs and eliminates dead cells thanks to dicocodimonium chloride. Rich in soothing and emollient ingredients (sucrose, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, sodium hyaluronate), it can be used on delicate skin.

Mosses with fruit acids

Chemical exfoliation and foam texture for these new retexturizing cleansers that smooth the skin texture, and for some even and illuminate the complexion (Mousse Peeling Eclaircissante with blackberry and sea fern Saisona, 150 ml, 18 €, certified organic, with 52% ingredients from organic farming). Based on glycolic acid (Deep Cleansing Foam Cream Pure Ritual Care-In-Foam Helena Rubinstein, 125 ml, 59 €), or light fruit acids from citrus extracts (Cleansing Foam Booster Sephora, 150 ml, 9.90), they are found in double action cleansers/exfoliants.

Powerful exfoliants

One of the most intense has just been released at StriVectin Labs (Weekly glycolic peeling in 5 minutes, 2 tubes of 50 ml, 75 €, Sephora). This is a new two-step routine that not only eliminates dead cells, but also reduces fine lines and wrinkles, reduces the appearance of pores and promotes skin renewal, thanks to a powerful glycolic acid complex and other AHAs. The first step consists in letting a detoxifying base act on the clean face for one minute, without rinsing it. Then immediately apply Activator AHA (a gel) which is applied for 3 to 5 minutes, before rinsing well. As regards instructions for use, the brand recommends not combining these products with retinol, limiting sun exposure and wearing sun protection during the day. Other"muscular" proposals at Resultime by Collin (Microdermabrasion Quartz and Vitamin C Scrub, 50 ml, 28,50 €, in institute), or La Prairie (Cellular Mineral Exfoliating Face, 100 ml, 110 €). This last contains quartz crystal and powders of precious stones (diamond, tourmaline) coated in a cream texture which makes it possible to absorb the"karcher" effect ! Some are accompanied by an exfoliating massage disc, such as Daniel Jouvance's Eclacéane Dynamic Facial Scrub (50 ml, 16 €). Formulated with Physiomarine water and exfoliating particles from a red coral micro-algae (noctiluca), it oxygenates and detoxifies the complexion. Finally, the night peeling lotion is one of the newest exfoliating and anti-stain gestures of the new school year. Concentrated with 3% glycolic acid, this lotion is applied to cotton wool on dry skin before going to bed. The brand recommends, for optimal exfoliating effectiveness, not to apply cream afterwards and to use the next morning a treatment with a minimum SPF 15 (Revitalift Laser X 3 Lotion L'Oréal Paris, 125 ml, 17.90 €).

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics

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