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Thursday, January 8, 2015Focus on French Launches

Lip oils

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

The lipstick territory was missing an oil! Forgetting will be fixed next spring, when cosmetic innovations for lips will abound. 2015 is indeed asserting itself as the year of the mouth! Straddling between care and make-up, lip oils reinterpret the gesture as much as the colour result of lipstick. With a real pleasure to the application and a surprising sensoriality..;

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Lips event … At the crossroads of lip care and beauty, lip oils combine colour, shine and perfect comfort. They look more like fluid lip balms than gloss or inks. From journalist's memory, these are the most sensory lipsticks we've ever tried. Which in itself is new because sensoriality, until now, was not the strong point of lipsticks! Rich in vegetable oils, enveloping and comforting, these oils glide on the mouth with sensuality, leaving an intense feeling of nutrition. Their presence disappears with application, leaving an impression of lips full and swollen, bright and slightly coloured, but above all perfectly hydrated. Without a shred of tights… The oil is also the texture that best fixes the perfume, often of food origin, and the brands do not deprive themselves of this small sensory"plus". Aésop even proposes the double use for its own (Moisturizing Oil for lips, 25 €), with a real floral perfume (jasmine, violet and tuberose). Thanks to its mixture of walnut and plant oils in a small ball bottle, it can be used as a care for dry and fragile lips (free of pigments) and also as a perfume.

New formulas

Vegetable waxes and butters, synthetic waxes, polymers, silicones… up to now, lipsticks or lip balms were made up in stick form, but not vegetable oils! Why? Why? This is because oil is an elusive and difficult to handle element, not very compatible with pigments. Oil and pigments repel each other naturally. New hybrid and high stability technologies (like Yves Saint Laurent's"Colour Link Infuser" in Volupté Tint-In-Oil, Huile à lèvres, 30 €, 8 shades) allow these opposites to attract each other. As a result, the colour particles are evenly distributed in the oil. Captured, the color diffuses continuously and gains in intensity. Over the hours, the vegetable oils (apricot kernel, macadamia nuts, coriander, jojoba, passion flower) disappear but the brilliance of the colour remains. Better still, an original ink activates on contact with the moisture of the lips and interacts with their natural complexion for a custom make-up finish. The natural color of the lips is sublimated, their brightness awakened.

A variable color result

Generally speaking, more than lipsticks, they are"lipsticks" that enhance the color of lips. The make-up result is light, less"involving" than that obtained with a lipstick covering. But with nuances. If the colour is relatively bright in Yves Saint Laurent, it is more diluted for Clarins (Éclat Minute Huile Confort Lèvres, 20.50 €, 2 shades: 01 Honey or 02 Raspberry, the latter in limited edition). The texture, frankly oil, is a real treat for the mouth (hazelnut oil, organic jojoba, mirabelle plum or raspberry) but contains few pigments. In contrast to Too Faced, which is much more gelled and resembles a tattoo-style lip ink (Melted, Liquified Long Wear Lipstick, Long-lasting liquid lipstick, 20 €, from February at Sephora).

A real"glow" for the lips!

Lip oils should seduce women who are looking for a natural make-up result and are intimidated by colors too strong, young generations in mind… but not that, because they are also care products that sublimate the beauty and youth of lips, their full, smooth and pulpy appearance. They create volume and smooth streaks. With them, lips are plumped and plumped, as shiny as with a gloss, they shine brightly. This is the real plus of these"lip beautifiers", their valence care. We promise them a bright future…

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics
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