CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
June 26, 2014Focus on French Launches

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The Observatory of Cosmetics

Typically Asian, cosmetic masks made of bio-cellulose are now popular with the general public. More effective than fabric masks, they offer many benefits, such as tolerance, occlusion, biocompatibility, stretchability, perfectly deserving their nickname"second skin".

Reading time : ~ 7 minutes

The bio-cellulose masks began to bloom in the institute booths where they replace the so effective collagen sheet, since the ban of bovine collagen (Comforting mask Bio Cellulose Resultime by Collin, the new aesthetic brand bought by Aliza Jabès, creator of Nuxe), then in niche brands such as Talika (Bio Enzymes Mask Anti-ageing or Moisturizing, 12 € the unit) and eye care products where their tolerance is marvellous. We now see them bloom in many brands with anti-aging, moisturizing, radiance. While Taiwanese suppliers compete for the bulk of the market, the French have also recently been offering them (Tech Nature).

Active support…

Straight from biotechnology, bio-cellulose is obtained by the natural enzymatic fermentation of coconut milk. Its technology was initially developed to treat severe burns in hospitals because it has unique healing and skin regeneration properties. As thin as a membrane, this material, whose fibres are a thousand times thinner than the diameter of a hair, offers exceptional absorbency and bioavailability. This new galenic constitutes a care in itself, apart from the active ingredients that are incorporated. Nothing to do with a fabric (or non-woven), because this membrane perfectly fits the skin, stretches without tearing and offers a very pleasant fresh contact. Soft but resistant, it provides a rare comfort and does not interfere in any way with the plasticity of the face. Thus, it does not condemn to immobility! The sensation of"second skin" (even if the word is overused) is total, because bio-cellulose adheres perfectly to the shape of the face (no more uncertain and by no means standard cuts, often designed for small Asian faces and poorly adapted to the French morphology). In osmosis with the skin, the bio-cellulosic support remains firmly in place and can be removed without leaving residues. During application, this second skin evenly and deeply conveys the active ingredients (moisturizers, anti-ageing, radiance, firmness, lighteners…) with which it is impregnated. They are often concentrated in the form of serum (a mask can contain up to 15 ml of serum) and with the occlusion of the mask, their absorption is optimized. Often, after removing the mask, there is no excess, the skin has assimilated everything. Last but not least bio-cellulose can be adopted by the most sensitive and fragile skins. It's simple, when you've tried a bio-cellulose mask once, you quickly want to come back because it really feels good! Two downsides though: its high price (that's why masks are often sold individually) and its long action time (between 15 and 20 minutes of exposure, more is even better!).

… impregnated with various ingredients

Hyaluronic acid, marine collagen, plant stem cells, vitamins, aloe vera, glycerin, anti-stain agents… bio-cellulose fibres are capable of trapping a high concentration of active ingredients within their structure. They can hold up to 100 times their dry weight, about 10 times more than ordinary fabric masks. Saturated with active ingredients (which helps increase the price of the mask), they offer the effectiveness of professional care at home. A S.O.S gesture par excellence when you are looking for extra hydration, radiance, firmness…

High-performance face masks…

They are essentially moisturizing, plumping, anti-aging, lightening. Logically, because they are all the rage in Asia where women are looking for uniformity of complexion. Some brands like Helena Rubinstein only offer them on this market, in their"whitening" ranges (Prodigy White Mask). Among the latest releases: Cryo-Mask Biocyte, radiance and firmness mask, to be placed in the refrigerator before use for a fresh remodeling effect (38 g, 12 € per unit); Hydrabiocellulose, Dermance Anti-Thirst Mask, rich in marine collagen and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid (8 ml, 24.90 € per unit dose). Same ingredients for the TT Mask, Collagen Mask Bio Cellulose Timeless Truth (9.90 € per unit, at Parashop), an anti-aging and moisturizing mask. Phyderma SubliLift Radiance Lift Mask (4 bags of 25 ml, 59.90 € the 4 masks), contains tensor organic oats and plant extracts lighteners (skullcap, white mulberry, saxifrage, grapes…). For the moment, only Talika offers a purifying bio-cellulose mask, which reduces imperfections and tightens pores (Bio Enzymes Mask Purifiant, 12 € per unit). Any leads?

… as for the eye area

Fine and sensitive, the eye contour area particularly benefits from the feeling of well-being and soothing of bio-cellulose patches. After Lancôme, Helena Rubinstein launches her own, based on vegetable stem cells of oceanic crist (antioxidant and regenerating), with an instant anti-puffiness and smoothing effect: Prodigy Powercell Eye Urgency, Eye Treatment (6 x 4 ml, 105 €). The brand announces"the equivalent of 15 days of eye treatment in a single application". As for the TT Mask, it also exists in a specific formula look (Collagen Mask Bio Cellulose Eye Contour Timeless Truth, 2 masks of 5 ml, 3.70 € - Parashop).

A little foresight

One could imagine masks in after-sun bio-cellulose, anti-redness, specific neck or intolerant skins. As they can integrate the most diverse care assets, they should be promised a great future…

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics

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