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Thursday, March 6, 2014Focus on French Launches

Cow" perfumes

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

They bite, slap, whip or"scratch"… Don't worry, they smell very good but they evoke the fauwn, the glass wool, the rain or the subway! Atypical, daring, unusual… but certainly not consensual! Zoom on the new perfumed cosmetics of the week by Ariane Le Febvre.

Reading time
~ 4 minutes

Before them, there were My Claw (Carven), Intoxication (Parfums d'Orsay), Passage from Hell or Of Mood Massacring of Les sautes d'humeur (L'Artisan Parfumeur) box set, carrion or Magnificent Secretions (Orange Free State), and obviously Poison (Dior) and Opium (Yves Saint Laurent)… And certainly many others… Perfume likes breakups. Transgression and provocation. And then, we have to renew the genre. Get off the beaten track. The spring 2014 exercise is proving creative. The compositions reveal unexplored chords, without resorting to the usual"imagery" of perfumery. For once, we are not in the register of the exacerbated poetry and the verbose lyricism that the world of perfume is so fond of. But in the one of strong emotions. Far from the"natural" folklore, these perfumes stand out in the ambient olfactory landscape. Audacious, sharp, biting, they disturb to surprise us better… and throw a big blow to the smells received!

Glass Wool The latest Serge Lutens (eau de parfum 100 ml, 105 € or 50 ml, 75 €) is an aldehyde floral with metallic accents. Third opus in the Les Eaux line, it combines the frosty, polar, ozonic notes of Somali incense with the warm, woody scents of cashmeran and the sensual caress of …

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