CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
Dec. 21, 2017Focus on French Launches

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The tears of pistacia lentiscus (also known as lentisk or mastic) cannot but make us smile! This precious resin revives the cell activity and helps the skin naturally regenerate. You will find this precious ally in the most promising anti-aging skincare products of this end-of-year.

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Its essential oil, obtained by distilling its flowers and branches, was well-known in fine perfumery – but not widely used, because of its outrageous price due to an extremely low yield. Jean-Claude Ellena had reintroduced its exquisite herbaceous scent in 2003, in the Hermès eau de toilette Un Jardin en Méditerranée .

We have recently discovered the anti-aging properties of its resin (tears obtained by incising the bark), commonly known as mastic: pistacia lentiscus is also called ‘mastic tree’. If this evergreen bush grows all around the Mediterranean, the only place where it produces tears is Chios Island in Greece (protected designation of origin).
This plant-derived gum offers revitalizing, smoothing, and antioxidant benefits in new high performance anti-aging skincare products. Rich in oleanolic acid, it helps the skin recover its natural regeneration abilities.

It can be found in the Garancia Huile Ensorcelante aux Super Pouvoirs (Bewitching Oil with Superpowers, 25 ml, €35.35), a dry face oil endowed with plumping, nourishing, firming, and soothing properties. The brand claims that ‘the pistacia lentiscus tear extract activates detoxification and cell repair, by increasing the level of two proteins, Foxo (longevity protein) and Klotho, recently identified as the new youth protein (its level gradually falls over time). This extract significantly increases the synthesis of the Klotho protein in fibroblasts. In vitro, 54-year-old fibroblasts have a similar level of Klotho as 37-year-old fibroblasts’ (protocol: human dermis fibroblasts from donors with different ages/Incubation with the active at 0.005% for 24 hours/Observation and analysis of the expression of Klotho by immunofluorescence).

In the new Cattier organic-certified anti-aging range, pistacia lentiscus tears are combined with raspberry oil (Absolu de Beauté Anti-Aging Redensifying Serum Oil, 30 ml, €27.95). This serum oil offers a comprehensive action on anti-aging signs (wrinkles, loss of firmness and radiance).

Lastly, next January 12, Chanel, which had already used this active in Blue Serum (30 ml, €95), will do it again in Blue Serum Eye, Eye Revitalizing Concentrate (15 ml, €65). The lentiscus gum from Chios Island, which the brand identified as one of these famous ‘longevity ingredients’ consumed in blue areas, the territories where you count the most centenarians, is harvested from a local cooperative and obtained with supercritical CO  2 extraction to preserve its properties.

The odds are that we will hear about this magical resin for quite long…

Ariane Le Febvre

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