CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
Feb. 14, 2019Focus on French Launches

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Detox is becoming more precise. Once a little “stuffy”, it is now becoming the other name for anti-pollution skincare, which is increasingly gaining ground in supermarkets. In selective channels, beauty institutes and pharmacies, these “city cares” are often combined with an oxygenating or anti-blue light action.

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As we know, pollution is one of the most harmful oxidative phenomena for the face (with of course UV rays).
Protecting oneself from the urban environment is becoming a growing concern for women. Suspended particles, cigarette and exhaust smoke, UV, blue light… The skin is subjected to many stresses on a daily basis.
Photo-pollution (combination of UV and pollution) in particular increases oxidative skin stress, a factor in accelerated natural ageing and the appearance of spots.
The new detox treatments provide physical protection (anti-adhesion film that prevents pollution particles from adhering to the skin surface) as well as biological protection (anti-oxidant, detoxifying, oxygenating).

Pollution control is gaining ground in supermarkets

Detox cleaners (meaning those that remove toxins including pollution residues) are very successful in supermarkets. They are a guarantee of deep skin cleansing.

After Le Petit Olivier and its Anti-pollution Almond Flower range (Cleansing Cream, Exfoliating Jelly, Foaming Mask, Facial Mist, Eye Contour Gel, Day Cream Gel, from €4.90 to €7.90), it is now Neutrogena’s turn (Skin Detox range), Garnier Bio (Detoxifying cleansing gel with organic citronella essential oil, 150 ml, €6.90) and Le Petit Marseillais (Multi-Protection Nourishing Fluid SPF 20 Délice de Miel, 50 ml, €6.80) to take out their detox treatments.
Neutrogena’s Skin Detox range is the most complete.
It offers a Purifying Scrub and a 2-in-1 Purifying Clay Mask (150 ml, €4.99 each) both containing glycolic acid and targeting traces of pollution and 100% of toxins, as well as a Detoxifying Moisturizing Care (50 ml, €9.90) which uses, in addition to a powerful antioxidant, a film-forming polymer that traps external toxins.

The pharmacy relies on oxygenating care

The palm goes to Filorga who after the Oxygen-Glow line with nasturtium extract, detoxifying enzymes and hyaluronic acid (Oxygen-Glow Clean, Super cleanser with a clear skin effect, 125 ml, €19.90; Oxygen-Glow Eyes, Super-Smoothing Eye Care, 15 ml, €29.90; Oxygen-Glow Mask, Super-Perfector Express Mask, 75 ml, €32.90 and Oxygen-Glow, Super-Perfecting Eye Cream, 50 ml, €39.90 from March) launched in April Scrub & Detox, Intense Purity Foam Exfoliant (50 ml, €32.90).
That’s five products at once!

The Giphar Laboratory imagines a night mask for normal to combination skin, based on hyaluronic acid, extracts of antioxidant wild thinking and relaxing silk tree (My Detoxifying Night Mask, 50 ml, €12.90).

Saève offers Detox Officinale Botanical Serum Antioxidant Detox Shield with fresh organic birch sap, titrated dandelion extract and encapsulated apple phloretin (30 ml, €32.10).

And Mavala creates Pore Detox Perfecting Toning Lotion with a physiological pH (200 ml, €14) that cleanses and purifies the skin.

Urban care is multiplying in perfumeries and beauty institutes

By Terry focuses on urban protection with its Cellularose Detoxilyn line, depolluting and anti-aging (Detoxilyn City Essence Detoxifying Preparatory Water Essence, 130 ml, €68; Detoxilyn City Serum, Detoxifying Defense Concentrate, 30 g, €115; Detoxilyn City Cream Detoxifying Defense Cream, 50 ml, €95; Detoxilyn City Mask, Effervescent Detoxifying Mask, 80 g, €78).

The same applies to Carita with Le Fluide Urbain Fortifiant, Anti-Pollution SPF 15 (50 ml, €95) and This Works with In Transit Skin Defence, Anti-Aging Anti-Pollution Moisturizer SPF 30 (40 ml, €38, at Sephora).
Guerlain adds the blue light protection (in addition to UV and infrared) with Abeille Royale Skin Defense Protection Jeunesse SPF 50 (30 ml, €65).

In spas and beauty salons, after Citadine Citylife, Crème Sorbet Visage et Yeux with a fresh “non-stick” texture (50 ml, €69), Phytomer imagines Algodéfense SPF 20, Emulsion Rides Multi-Protectrice (50 ml, €65, from March), a marine shield, both protective and wrinkle corrector on a daily basis.

Matis also enhances its city care with a protection against blue light with Réponse Jeunesse City Protect SPF 50 Fluide Anti-Lumière Bleue (30 ml, €42).
The brand states that “6 hours per day and per year of exposure to blue light from the screens is equivalent to 3 months of sun exposure…”

Certified organic care is not to be outdone

After Patyka (Hydra-Défense Anti-Pollution Mist 1st Signs of the Age, 40 ml, €19.90), Sanoflore has just launched Aqua Aeria Oxygenating Botanical Mist Anti-Pollution (100 ml, €27.50) which contains a totum of citrus savory (hydrosol and essential oil) helping urban women to keep their skin healthy and fresh. Its plus: it can also be sprayed on the hair.

Cattier offers a range of 1st anti-pollution wrinkle treatments based on montmorillonite clay, seaweed, remineralizing and detoxifying Noirmoutier seawater, anti-pollution white marble extract and blue light (Eclat de Rose Concentré Regard, 15 ml, €15,70; Eternal Nectar Rich Anti-Aging Smoothing Care, 50 ml, €22.99; Eternal Nectar Light Anti-Aging Smoothing Care, 50 ml, €22.99; Eternal Murmur Sleeping Smoothing Night Cream, 50 ml, €24.30; Flower Sap Revitalizing Smoothing Serum, 30 ml, €24.99).

Ariane Le Febvre

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