CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
July 26, 2016Ingredient of the month

Polyethylene, a small but sticking bead Add to my portfolio
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The Observatory of Cosmetics

It is a cosmetic ingredient that is used in high quantities in many formulas. It has been popular for a long time for its soft feel on the skin and its modest cost, as well as for its exfoliating and film-forming properties. However, its outer beauty is now overshadowed by the inner polluting characteristics of its plastic material, in particular for marine environments. And if polyethylene is more and more badly thought of, it is also increasingly targeted by regulations.

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Polyethylene is a thermoplastic resin that is widely used all around the world because it is one of the cheapest and easiest polymers to synthesize.
It is derived from the petrochemical industry and exhibits very high stability, which provides it with a good impact strength and chemical resistance.

There are several types of polyethylene, including LDPE and HDPE homopolymers, and copolymers: LLDPE plastomers, for example.
HDPE is mainly used in stiff goods (detergent or cosmetics jars, bottles, food containers, jerry cans, car tanks, etc.), while LDPE is found in soft goods (plastic bags, films, packets and small bags, flexible containers, etc.).
Polyethylene is also a food additive (E914).

Polyethylene, a cosmetic ingredient

Polyethylene is listed in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients under number CAS 9002-88-4, with three main functions: exfoliating agent, film-forming agent, and viscosity control agent.

It is incorporated in formulas in the form of microbeads between 0.1 and 1 millimetre which offer many advantages for formulators: easily available, cheap, white, and odourless, they are completely inert and do not interfere with the other cosmetic ingredients.

Gentle for the skin

Polyethylene can thus be used for multiple applications and is found in thousands of products belonging to almost all cosmetic categories, from cleansers (soaps, facial and body gels, toothpaste…) to skincare products (facial creams, eye contours, lip balms…), and makeup (lipsticks, foundation, mascaras…).

It is also present in a lot of body and face scrubs. Its microbeads are known for being perfectly spherical and devoid of any potentially aggressive micro-edges (unlike the plant-derived exfoliating powders obtained from fruit kernels or shells), and they have long been described as the softest and most respectful for the skin.

Safe for human health

Its use further increased when polyethylene was deemed safe for use. A recent study published in 2014 by the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) was another example of positive conclusion as regards its safety for human health, even in case of dermal absorption or unintentional oral ingestion of polyethylene microplastic particles from cosmetic products.

Then why does polyethylene belong to the category of controversial ingredients now?

Polyethylene, a hazard for aquatic environments

It actually has to do with its high stability, which makes it non-biodegradable, and with its end-of-life when it is used in cosmetics formulas. This was highlighted in particular by Dutch NGOs in 2013 .

Warnings from NGOs

Here is what they found:
• Microbeads are used in hundreds of personal care products (including toothpaste, shaving cream, shower gel and exfoliating scrubs)
• Microbeads could constitute up to 10% by volume of a single product
• Sewage treatment facilities are not designed to filter these tiny microbeads from wastewater so some microbeads will still be present in effluent water leaving the treatment plant
• Microbeads are found throughout the marine environment (from Lake Geneva to the North Pole).
• Microbeads will not biodegrade
• They are ingested by various sea species
• They attract persistent organic toxins (POPs)
Therefore, they concluded that the accumulation of plastic, including microplastics, in the marine environment is today recognised as a serious, global environmental issue, due to both the impact this type of pollution has on marine biodiversity, and its related consequences on human health.

Global awareness

These findings were confirmed by a report of the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) in 2015, which emphasized that 'knowledge is emerging about the ubiquitous occurrence of microplastics throughout the world's marine environment and their potential for secondary health impacts via the food chain, including to humans who consume seafood. This, coupled with emerging knowledge about the toxic effects such particles have on biological organisms, including mammals, has led to concern…'
As a result, several recommendations were formulated by the United Nations, for producers and consumers, as well as for researchers and policymakers, calling for a voluntary phase-out of microplastics by the industry precipitated by consumers' decisions not to buy products containing microbeads. [ID 3051]

Polyethylene, a species becoming extinct?

Even if cosmetic products do not represent the main source of plastic pollution for aquatic environments, the issue is given a lot of coverage, and cosmetics players are starting to launch campaigns to inform consumers on their commitment to making polyethylene disappear from their formulations.

Towards giving up on PE

The Unilever group (Axe, Dove, Monsavon, Rexona, Signal, Williams…) has decided 'to phase out plastic scrub beads from personal care products and expect to complete this phase out globally by 2015.'
L’Oréal has decided 'not to develop any new products with microplastic-pearls as an exfoliating agent and we will also work to substitute these in existing product formulas.'
Procter & Gamble (Fluocaril, Gilette, Head & Shoulders, Pantene Pro-V…) said 'that all products will be free from microplastics in 2017.'
Johnson & Johnson (Listerine, Neutrogena, Roc, Vendome…) said: 'We’ve already begun the phase out of polyethylene microbeads in our personal care products. We have stopped developing new products containing plastic microbeads.'
We could also name The Body Shop, Colgate-Palmolive or Lush, who have made the same type of commitment.

Research for substitutes

Apart from natural exfoliating agents (fruit shells and kernels, bamboo silica, pumice stone, sand…) whose abrasiveness and aggressiveness for the skin sometimes proves too strong, the cosmetics industry already has a few solutions available to replace plastic microbeads by others, less harmful for the environment, but just as gentle for the skin.
Jojoba or carnauba wax, or also cellulose microbeads are already quite commonly used in various products, even if they are more expensive and their cosmetic properties are a bit less efficient.

Ingredient suppliers are seeking other alternatives – some of them have already found a few – with almost the same characteristics to replace plastic derivatives in the long run.
That is how, in 2007, Brazilian company Braskem had already announced it was able to certify a green polyethylene polymerized from ethylene derived from ethanol, which was obtained by fermenting sugar cane.
Then, in 2014, Lessonia presented a new plant-derived exfoliating active that presented ‘ all the advantages of polyethylene in terms of availability, stability in the formulation, sensoriality, and cost, while being biodegradable and Ecocert-certified ’.

And as other alternatives should be soon launched on the market, it seems there is nothing against the disappearance of polyethylene in cosmetics… except it is still authorized, with no limit, at least in Europe.

Polyethylene, a target for regulations?

It is on the other side of the Atlantic that the issue of polyethylene microbeads triggered the first regulatory changes.
As the debate reached the political sphere, several American States introduced law texts aiming to ban them from cosmetic products. If they are still being drafted in Ohio or Michigan, they have already been adopted in Illinois and California.

And the trend has gone more global, as it also reached the federal level when President Barack Obama signed the Microbead-Free Waters Act on December 28, 2015, to ban plastic microbeads from rinsed-off cosmetic products throughout the US territory. The measure will be enforced as from July 2018.

Europe is late

What about Europe? It is true that the European Commission has highlighted marine microplastics pollution as a priority area of concern. The Netherlands, Austria, Luxembourg, Belgium, and Sweden have issued a joint call to ban the microplastics used in personal care products.

And yet… these stands have not led to any action, at least for now. European regulations still do not provide for any restrictions, and neither is there any ban proposal for polyethylene.
On July 20, 2016, France took the initiative, through the Law on Biodiversity, to introduce the ban of solid plastic particles in rinse-off cosmetic products used for exfoliation or cleaning. A provision which should come into force on January 2018. And in September 2016, the British government announced that microbeads will be banned from sale in the UK by the end of 2017 .

Still, nothing prevent consumers from taking action, in particular by not buying or using the cosmetic products that contain this ingredient. It is a quite simple citizen action, as people only need to have a look at the list of ingredients, where polyethylene is found under its INCI name: Polyethylene.

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