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May 16, 2018 | Ingredients

Cosmetic innovation: repair and rejuvenation of the JDE by a polypeptide,"Cebeline".

The dermis and epidermis are connected by an adhesion zone centered around the basal blade, called the Dermo-Epidermal Junction or JDE. It consists of thin sheets (50 to 80 nm) that separate the cells of different origin. On the epidermis side, this structure anchors the keratinocytes of the epidermis to the papillary dermis, and on the dermis side, the anchoring fibres interact with the basement membrane to form a network that traps the collagen fibres of the upper part.

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Epidermal Dermo Junction and Cosmetotheque Logo
16 May 2018 Ingredients

Cosmetic innovation: repair and rejuvenation of the JDE by a polypeptide,"Cebeline".

The dermis and epidermis are connected by an adhesion zone centered around the basal blade, called the Dermo-Epidermal Junction or JDE. It consists of thin sheets (50 to 80 nm) that separate the cells of different origin. On the epidermis side, this structure anchors the keratinocytes of the epidermis to the papillary dermis ...

17 April 2018 Ingredients

Ingredients and light

Light control in cosmetics began with the effects of pigments and fillers used to modify colour perception or skin appearance. We will not return in this contribution on the white powders allowing the make-up, like the famous powder of ceruse (in fact lead carbonate which caused many worries) nor on ...

24 Oct. 2017 Ingredients

The myth of blue skin: the return?

The first references to blue skin can be found in mythology… and are also found in large TV sagas or comic strips. But this colour is not very common on the faces we see on the street… What if, after the trend towards white skin, the myth of blue skin ...

11 Oct. 2017 Ingredients

The most valuable ingredient in the cosmetics industry: water

In the cosmetics industry, water is the main ingredient, first of all quantitatively, but also because of its importance in formulation and its role in skin physiology. This water story is told by Jean-Claude Le Joliff.

29 Nov. 2016 Ingredients


Neophytes or automatic spell checkers often confuse ceramics and ceramides. Although the spelling is quite similar, their functions and characteristics are quite different. This term ceramides appeared in the cosmetic language at the end of the 80s. Yves Le Guen and Karl Lintner recount the research that preceded the development of ...

08 Nov. 2016 Ingredients

A magical white powder from the formulator: Lauroyl lysine

In the lipopeptide saga, we have already described several substances that are very often characterized by their biological properties. But lipopeptides are not only"active" or functionalizing substances. In addition to the famous"acyl glutamates" and other lipoamino acids already mentioned, another substance is widely used in a large number ...

02 Nov. 2016 Ingredients

Silicon and Beauty 5&nbsp: Silicones(2)

Polymers based on the silicon atom in combination with oxygen, silicones find their origin in the work of Berzelius who isolated this element in 1824. Successive developments then led to the marketing of the first products in the 1940s by Dow Corning.

19 Oct. 2016 Ingredients

Silicon and Beauty 5&nbsp: Silicones(1)

Some substances have particularly marked the history of science and technology and have left an indelible mark. This is the case, for example, of the materials making up the sole of Niel Armstrong's boot, which set foot on the moon in July 1969 and pronounced the famous phrase:"This is one ...

12 Oct. 2016 Ingredients

Talc&nbsp: a key ingredient of beauty(2)

In a previous contribution, we put into perspective the different fields of use of talc in cosmetic formulations. We take here a publication by Jean-François Robert, who spent most of his professional career in talc. His knowledge of talc mineralogy and geology is unparalleled. He retired in July 2016 after a 35-year career ...

05 Oct. 2016 Ingredients

Talc&nbsp: a key ingredient of beauty (1)

Talc has been a major ingredient in the cosmetics industry since time immemorial. The Cosmetotheque has already discussed its use in the Silicon and Beauty dossier. Appreciated for its soft and powdery touch, talc has also been used for thousands of years for its absorbent and mattifying properties, but also ...

21 Sept. 2016 Ingredients

A brief history of placental extracts

In a previous contribution concerning anti-ageing active ingredients, the use of placental extracts had been addressed briefly. There have been many varieties of placental, human, animal or plant extracts. It is necessary to clearly distinguish the different variants which have been used, and which are no longer used, except in ...

07 Sept. 2016 Ingredients

A surprising peptide: NATAH

Peptides are an exceptional class of ingredients that have strongly contributed to the advancement of cosmetic responses to various questions. The Cosmétothèque® has been trying to contribute to their recognition by publishing contributions on this theme for several months. The part related to biopeptides is probably the most fascinating…

01 June 2016 Ingredients

Beauty and epigenetics

The Cosmetotheque® is not intended to be a technical and scientific watch, and that is why we only talk about research fields when ingredients appear. Epigenetics is becoming a hot topic in the world of cosmetics, and we see many initiatives in this field. Ingredients have recently appeared at several ...

20 April 2016 Ingredients

The Oléos project&nbsp: when tradition reinvents modernity&nbsp!

The design of active principles is a fairly recurrent activity in our businesses, and generally the fact of companies specialized either in synthesis, or in biotechnologies or in extraction techniques. There are many extraction processes for obtaining more or less qualified specialities, but alongside these, there are also more innovative ...

23 March 2016 Ingredients

Skin hydration, a layer by layer approach: osmolytes

There are many ways to moisturize the skin, or more accurately prevent it from becoming dehydrated. As a result, there are many substances with these properties. Moreover, skin hydration remains one of the main concerns of the cosmetics industry under pressure from users. Close-up on osmolytes, slowers of water loss.

09 March 2016 Ingredients

Pigments treated or coating or coating techniques

The use of treated pigments, and more generally of coating treated fillers, has become one of the basic technologies in the formulation of make-up products in the cosmetics industry. As always, it all started in the 1970s with some form of stammering, before becoming a constant affecting virtually all products. The ...

24 Feb. 2016 Ingredients

The birth of the PSTC concept and plant stem cells

The concept of stem cells appeared in the early 2000's in the cosmetics industry, but without quickly finding a logical and legitimate application. It will be a few years before this concept becomes generalized little by little. Its use has been made possible by several factors, but in particular by ...

27 Jan. 2016 Ingredients


The cosmetics industry, after having used for many years ingredients often of rather little or poorly defined composition, selected mainly for their propertiesIn the course of time, the use of supposed biological teas has become more and more oriented towards the use of increasingly better characterized substances and especially in ...

02 Dec. 2015 Ingredients

Silicon and beauty 4&nbsp: Functional clays and colloids

There are several definitions of clays. The term"clay" refers, depending on the case, to a group of mineral species, a family of rocks, a category of soil or a granulometric class. Under this generic name hides in fact a great variety of materials, whose common point is to possess ...

21 Oct. 2015 Ingredients


Beer, like wine or chocolate, should also have benefited, in the abundance of multifunctional products, from the rapprochement between food and cosmetics, described for a long time by prospectivists. It is surprising that a subject such as the use of beer and its derivatives in cosmetic products was not discussed ...

07 Oct. 2015 Ingredients

Acylglutamates: a nugget of surfactant hyper-actives!

Amino acid derivatives constitute a very broad family of ingredients with multiple functionalities. We have already treated some parts like biopeptides or lipoamino acids. Another particularly interesting family is glutamic acid derivatives, better known as"acylglutamates", which are of major interest as the basis for formulating foaming preparations of all ...

23 Sept. 2015 Ingredients

The history of Brightenyl or how Induchem came to develop it

Ingredients play an important role in our industry's history and ways of innovating. Hence the idea of telling how some of them were carried on the baptismal font. It is not a question of promoting these substances, but of giving a more precise idea of how they were developed ...

09 Sept. 2015 Ingredients

Pastel oil for cosmetic use

Christine Lauth and Olivier Thierry are pleased with the management of the Pastel project within the Bourjois/Chanel organisation. It consisted of the recultivation of pastel in the Toulouse region and the preparation of an oil for cosmetic use. Nowadays, this project might seem pretty obvious. In the late'80s ...

01 July 2015 Ingredients

Silicon and Beauty 3 - Organic Silicon: Silanols

Silicon, a very abundant element on the Earth's surface and widely used in cosmetics through various derivatives, has also been used as an active ingredient for many years. Confusion is often made between organic silicon derivatives and silicon polymers. This article clarifies the role of specific derivatives, silanols, and ...

17 June 2015 Ingredients

Silicon and beauty 2: Silica and Silicates in formulation

Silicon is never used as a metal in cosmetic products, but always in the form of derivatives combining different types of elements, of which oxygen is the most frequent. In this series of contributions, we will look at the uses of these derivatives during the formulation process. There will mainly ...

Thinkstock/L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques
03 June 2015 Ingredients

Anti-aging through ingredients

Trying to rewrite the history of anti-aging skin care products is like trying to rewrite the history of beauty in general. This is strongly associated with the fact that the skin is the only organ whose aging is seen. Women have always been concerned about the accompaniment of ageing, its ...

20 May 2015 Ingredients

Lipoamino acids - Part 2

In this contribution, Régine Frick looks at Seppic's current offer based on lipoamino acid technology. A little forgotten these last decades, this one begins little by little to find the place which is due to it and is at the origin of substances endowed with remarkable properties.

25 March 2015 Ingredients

PCA or L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid - Part 2

In this second part, we will discuss the evidence of efficacy of this ingredient, the formulation elements, as well as a review of the state of the art, i.e. a fairly complete inventory of the different types of CACs available and their effects. We will also deal with a ...

18 March 2015 Ingredients

PCA or L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid - Part 1

Who among us has never heard of the BCP? Universally known in cosmetics, to the point where it even goes almost unnoticed in formulas, PCA has always been one of the best options for moisturizing the skin. Considered as the physiological moisturizer of reference and cited in all cosmetology textbooks ...

04 Feb. 2015 Ingredients

A peptide mimicking the youth hormone!

In 1993, with the creation of the European Institute of Cell Biology (now Lucas Meyer Cosmetics), several scientific data were going to allow the elaboration of the research philosophy which the creators of this company wished to develop. Many new discoveries concerning the skin upset the acquired knowledge.

03 Dec. 2014 Ingredients

Silicon and Beauty

Silicon is a chemical element of the crystallogen family, Si symbol and atomic number 14. It is the most abundant element in the earth's crust after oxygen, 25.7% of its mass, but it is comparatively present in relatively small quantities in the matter that makes up living organisms. On ...

19 Nov. 2014 Ingredients

Pastel in cosmetics

We are at the end of the 80s, the problem of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) continues to make the news in food and is beginning to be a certain subject in cosmetics. Many sources for these substances are proposed, and some work is beginning to clarify their role at the skin ...

15 Oct. 2014 Ingredients

"More peptides! What's the point???"

This could be the reaction of a Marketing Manager of an"anti-ageing" range when the formulation laboratory presents the latest proposal of innovative active ingredients. Indeed, peptides - as described in the first part of this article - have been introduced, used, commented on, praised and sometimes criticized for a long time ...

25 June 2014 Ingredients

Lipoamino acids - Part 1

Lipopeptides are structures containing lipids chemically associated with proteins. They were first identified in 1866 by Hoppe Seyler, a German chemist and physiologist, but it was not until 1928 that the term lipoproteins appeared and their existence was no longer controversial.

14 May 2014 Ingredients

Nail polish with SNPE

Nitrocellulose has a special place in the world of nail polish. Given its importance, but also its characteristics, it seemed useful to us to make a particular focus on this ingredient. To do this, the former technical director of one of the main manufacturers of this ingredient, SNPE (Société Nationale ...

16 April 2014 Ingredients

Peptides: What else?

A peptide is a linear chain of amino acids (AA); a protein is also a linear chain of amino acids, but it is a much longer chain. The boundary between the two is not officially fixed, but from a molar mass of 10,000 daltons (approx. 100 amino acids), we speak more of ...

19 March 2014 Ingredients

Boron nitride

In addition to the traditional uses of boron-derived compounds, new substances have gained renewed interest in recent years in the formulation of many cosmetic products. These are mainly so-called"modern ceramics", or at least some of the compounds used to make these specialities, and more specifically boron nitride, or more ...

By Rock Currier ( [CC-BY-3.0 (], via Wikimedia Commons
12 March 2014 Ingredients


Known since ancient times - the word comes from the Arabic bawraq or the Persian boûraq (white - brilliant), borax is an odourless and colourless salt that comes in the form of flakes or powder. It can be irritating. Borax is a mineral species of the formula (Na2B4O7-10H2O). It is a boron ...

By Ben Mills (Personal work)[Public domain], via Wikimedia Commons
05 March 2014 Ingredients

Boric acid

Boric acid (boric acid or orthoboric acid) is a weak acid often used as an antiseptic, insecticide, neutron absorber in nuclear power plants to control the fission rate of uranium, and as a precursor to other chemical compounds. It takes its name from one of its components, boron. Its gross ...

By Xvazquez (Personal Work)[CC-BY-SA-3.0 ( or GFDL (], via Wikimedia Commons
26 Feb. 2014 Ingredients


Boron is a chemical element of symbol B and atomic number 5. It is a trivalent metalloid. It is rather rare in the Earth's crust and solar system, but more abundant on the Earth's surface, especially as borax, due to the high solubility of borates. It constitutes about 0.001 ...