CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
Oct. 5, 2016Ingredients

Talc&nbsp: a key ingredient of beauty (1) Add to my portfolio
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Talc has been a major ingredient in the cosmetics industry since time immemorial. The Cosmetotheque has already discussed its use in the Silicon and Beauty dossier. Appreciated for its soft and powdery touch, talc has also been used for thousands of years for its absorbent and mattifying properties, but also as a base substance in many products of all kinds, or as an essential manufacturing intermediate.

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In this emerging third millennium, this ingredient remains at the centre of many uses. Here are some recent examples of formulations in different types of products ( Source cosmetikwatch.com ).

- Shower product AQUA/WATER, SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, GLYCERIN, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, COCO-BETAINE, BHT, PPG-5-CETETH-20, PEG-150 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRASTEARATE, PEG-6 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES, PEG-90M, LINALOOL, TALC ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, SODIUM BENZOATE, SALICYLIC ACID, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, COUMARIN, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS OIL/SWEET ALMOND OIL, STYRENE/ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, CITRIC ACID, POLYQUATERNIUM-7, HEXYL CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, PERFUME/FRAGRANCE.

Face powder TALC POLYETHYLENE, MAGNESIUM STEARATE, PARAFFINUM LIQUIDUM (MINERAL OIL), SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, KALANCHOE PINNATA LEAF EXTRACT, LANOLIN ALCOHOL, METHYLPARABEN, SILICA, MAGNESIUM MYRISTATE, FRAGRANCE, SERICA (SILK POWDER), PROPYLPARABEN, PEG-8, TIN OXIDE, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, TOCOPHEROL, STEARIC ACID, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, MALTODEXTRIN, BHT, ASCORBIC ACID, CITRIC ACID +/- (MAY CONTAIN) CI 12085 (RED 36), CI 15850 (RED 6), CI 15850 (RED 7 LAKE), CI 15880 (RED 34), CI 15985 (YELLOW 6 LAKE), CI 17200 (RED 33 LAKE), CI 19140 (YELLOW 5 LAKE), CI 42090 (BLUE 1 LAKE), CI 45380 (RED 22 LAKE), CI 45410 (RED 28 LAKE), CI 73360 (RED 30 LAKE), CI 75470 (CARMINE), CI 77007 (ULTRAMARINES), CI 77163 (BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE), CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE), CI 77742 (MANGANESE VIOLET), CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), MICA.

Foundation foundation AQUA/WATER, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, ALCOHOL DENAT., ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, GLYCERIN, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, BIS-PEG/PPG-14/14 DIMETHICONE, CITRUS AURANTIUM DULCIS FRUIT WATER/ORANGE FRUIT WATER, MENTHA PIPERITA EXTRACT/PEPPERMINT EXTRACT, RNA, ZEA MAYS KERNEL EXTRACT/CORN KERNEL EXTRACT, ROSA CENTIFOLIA EXTRACT/ROSA CENTIFOLIA FLOWER EXTRACT, SORBITOL, SACCHARUM OFFICINARUM EXTRACT/SUGAR CANE EXTRACT, VACCINIUM MYRTILLUS FRUIT EXTRACT, TALC ARGININE, PYRIDOXINE HCL, ALUMINA, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, PHENYLALANINE, MAGNESIUM SULFATE, MANNITOL, ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDE, NYLON-12, TYROSINE, DISODIUM ADENOSINE TRIPHOSPHATE, DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, ACER SACCHARUM EXTRACT, CITRUS LIMON FRUIT EXTRACT/LEMON FRUIT EXTRACT, MALTITOL, GENTIANA LUTEA ROOT EXTRACT, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, HISTIDINE HCL, ETHYLHEXYL HYDROXYSTEARATE, BHT, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, SORBIC ACID, PHENOXYETHANOL, PERFUME/FRAGRANCE, LINALOOL, EUGENOL, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, HEXYL CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, BENZYL SALICYLATE +/- (MAY CONTAIN) CI 77163/BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499/IRON OXIDES, CI 77891/TITANIUM DIOXIDE.

Face care WATER, DIMETHICONE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERIN, DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL, XYLITOL, POLYSORBATE 20, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, PEG-10 DIMETHICONE, TALC PHENOXYETHANOL, PEG-150, POLYVINYL ALCOHOL, SILICA, ALUMINA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891), MICA, TETRASODIUM EDTA, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, SODIUM CITRATE, FRAGRANCE (PERFUME), SODIUM METAPHOSPHATE, POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE, CITRIC ACID, SODIUM METABISULFITE, LIMONENE, INOSITOL, HEXYL CINNAMAL, IRON OXIDES (CI 77491), BENZYL BENZOATE, BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL, LINALOOL, SACCHAROMYCES FERMENT LYSATE FILTERTRATE, SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE, THYMUS SERPILLUM EXTRACT, IRON OXIDES (CI 77492), CITRONELLOL, GERANIOL, CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS (SAFFLOWER) FLOWER EXTRACT, ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS (ROSEMARY) LEAF, TOCOPHEROL.

Lipstick RICINUS COMMUNIS (BEAVER) SEED OIL, LANOLIN, PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL, EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX, CERA ALBA (BEESWAX), RHUS VERNICIFLUA PEEL WAX, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) SEED OIL*, BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS/ALEURITES FORDII OIL COPOLYMER, CERA CARNAUBA (COPERNICA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX), AROMA (FLAVOR), TOCOPHEROL, TALC CALCIUM ALUMINUM BOROSILICATE, SILICA, TIN OXIDE, MICA, LINALOOL, +/- (MAY CONTAIN) CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77510, CI 75470 (CARMINE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77492 (IRON OXIDES).

And we could continue this list for a long time…

Over the period 2012 to 2016, nearly 600 new formulas incorporate this ingredient, all types of products or brands combined. It is also an excellent manufacturing intermediate for the processing of a wide range of substances, in particular pigment dispersions.

It has also known very poetic periods, with dreamy appellations like Venice Talc. Career material as will be explained in this paper, all those who have been to Venice find it difficult to imagine that there were careers there. Does he owe this name to the fact that he arrived by boat in Venice or for the quality of the diaphanous make-up that he allows to be produced? This Venice talc has been and still is traditionally used to relieve irritated areas in infants and babies in case of diaper rash, in athletes to reduce friction and to relieve irritation, especially in areas of folds. .

This popularity has also led to regular media controversies. He first made headlines in 1972, when young children died and others seriously intoxicated by the use of the infamous Morhange talcum powder. But it was a handling error at the manufacturing stage (the mistaken introduction into the product of a high dose of hexachlorophene, a potent bactericide), and not the talc itself.

It was also indirectly at the origin of a positioning often discussed, mineral make-up. This micro-positioning appeared in the 1970s following a series of publications indicating that certain sources of talc could be contaminated by the presence of asbestos. Some brands thought they had to claim talc-free formulations. Having experienced ups and downs, this positioning will however end up asserting itself as one of those who oversees the make-up business. But the debate comes back regularly and as innocent as it seems, talc is a regular subject of controversies that regularly affect cosmetics. And it is not its millenary use that calms the debates. For all that, should we put this white powder on the red list of ingredients to avoid? First of all, let us recall that the alerts and potential risks concern only talc powder presented in free powder and that the last controversy, which concerns alleged carcinogenic properties, focuses on the use of powders for intimate hygiene. Compact make-up powders, eye shadows and other blushes are therefore not affected, as are all products in which talc is dispersed in the formulation. Nor are matifying creams or deodorants, where talc remains"prisoner" in a homogeneous galenic. Case to be continued!

According to some, one can also do a lot of things with talcum powder The following steps: fight against boils, practice hair removal, replace dry shampoo, remove sand, clean blood stains, remove grease stains, clean suede fabrics, undo knots, refresh sheets, put on rubber gloves, maintain books, clean a deck of cards, reduce squeaking from the floor, keep ants away, plant bulbs, etc.

So, still topical, it seemed useful to us to take stock of this major ingredient, through a new contribution that proposes a complete update around this ingredient .

A biologist by training, Jean Claude Le Joliff was a man of R&D for many years. Successively in charge of R&D, then of Research and Innovation in a large French cosmetics and luxury group, and after an experience of creating a research centre (CERIES), he turned to innovation management. He is the founder of inn2c, an R&D and Innovation consulting company. Consultant to several international companies, he has actively participated in projects such as Filorga, Aïny, Fareva, and many others. He created the Cosmétothèque®, the industry's first conservatory of crafts and know-how.
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