Monday, December 21, 2020Cosmetic regulations

The regulation of essential oils outside the Cosmetics Regulation

La réglementation des huiles essentielles hors Règlement Cosmétiques

During Aromadays, a congress dedicated to essential oils organised by Cosmed, Marie Orjubin, in charge of the Essential Oils consortium, presented a very precise overview of the regulations applicable to essential oils used in cosmetic products. After detailing the prohibitions and restrictions provided for in the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, she addressed the various recommendations or self-regulation codes of the control authorities and the industry. And she warned about upcoming new restrictions…

Reading time
~ 10 minutes

The “Terpenoid” Recommendation

Published in 2008 by Afssaps (now ANSM), the Recommendation on terpenoid-based cosmetic products covers three terpenes: camphor, eucalyptol, and menthol. Following serious undesirable effects (convulsions) in young children, the Agency recommends limiting their concentrations in cosmetic products intended for them.

For products intended for children under three years of age
• Camphor: 0.015%
• Eucalyptol: 0.1%
• Menthol: 0.45%
In this type of product, any voluntary addition is not recommended, as only an indirect contribution (e.g. via perfume) can be tolerated.

For products intended for children from 3 to 6 years old
• Camphor: 0.15%
• Eucalyptol: 1.12%
• Menthol: 4.5%
The sum of these three substances must be ≤ 4.5%.

IFRA Standards

They are to be taken into account as soon as essential oils or natural molecules are used in perfume compositions for cosmetic products. These standards set out recommendations so that manufacturers can market fragrances that are safe for consumers. It is a tool for industry self-regulation, which is different from a “real” regulation. In case of conflict between an IFRA Code and the Cosmetics Regulation, the latter always prevails.

The IFRA Standards contain restrictions (maximum quantities not to be exceeded per type of finished …

This content is only available to subscribersPREMIUM, PRO, STARTUPandTPE

Already subscribed?Log in

Discover our subscriptions


Associated elements(1)

Cosmetic regulationsOther articles

257results