CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
Jan. 28, 2019Cosmetics news

The new formulas of Cosmétagora (1/6) Add to my portfolio
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The Cosmetagora exhibition was held in Paris on 15 and 16 January 2019. This event organized by the SFC was a great success for its eleventh edition. Nearly 150 suppliers came to present their latest innovations. An opportunity for visitors to discover new cosmetic trends.

Reading time : ~ 14 minutes

For the past five years, the Formulation Prize has been organized on the occasion of the Cosmétagora Fair.
An opportunity for companies to present to a jury of experts the formulas they are proud of.
Moreover, the theme of the 2019 edition was none other than “Surprise us with your best formula”. The following is a complete list of participants, in alphabetical order (from A to B) and the presentations they have made of their candidate forms.


This multifunctional mobile stick will be your beauty ally, always have it handy. Containing 75% natural ingredients, this stick will be the ideal solution to calm your minor irritations and for a renewed skin, thanks to its anti-ageing and soothing active ingredient and its high shea content.
The transparency of the product is surprising with the presence of more than 50% shea derivatives. Its light and premium texture contrasts with the richness felt when applied without any greasy or sticky effect.

Its assets:
• Technical challenge: transparent stick containing more than 50% shea butter derivatives
• Minimalist formula: eight ingredients
• Lipex SheaLight: Shea butter ester with a silky, non-sticky feel
• Synergy of structuring agents of fatty phase
• Lipex SheaClear: transparent shea butter oil
• Water/oil emulsifiers to help stabilize
• Lipex SheaTris: shea triterpene concentrate: soothing, anti-aging and barrier effect

INCI: Shea butter ethyl esters, Polyamide-3, Polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, Butyrospermum parkii (shea) oil, Polyamide-8, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Silica dimethyl silylate, Butyrospermum parkii butter extract.


Shift it! Cream gel that changes color.
Color-Smart Day Moisturizer provides a radiant, matte finish. When applied to the skin, the cream changes colour, adapts to your skin tone for a natural and healthy complexion. A fresh and radiant complexion.
It is a treatment that instantly adapts to each skin tone. It is to be applied in the morning to clean and dry skin to obtain an even and matt complexion.
It can be used alone or as a make-up base.
Formulated with Adeka NOL GT-930, the texture that melts on the skin has a slightly blurry effect although its texture is thixotropic. The product evens out the complexion and gives an immediate healthy glow effect thanks to the pigments used, which are perfectly compatible with Adeka NOL GT-930.

“Shift it!” has three missions:
• To heal by moisturizing
• Blur skin imperfections with semi-transparent corrective pigments that adjust to skin tone + smoothing and mattifying agents
• Follow the skin like a pantyhose, without masking it or making it thick.

Alban Muller

Incredibly sensory red fruit sabayon of natural origin.
Body product (this product is not a food. Do not ingest).
• At the forefront of new trends for consumers who wish to use sensory and gourmet products, the Sabayon de fruits rouges is “THE” innovative body product combining sensoriality, naturalness and efficiency.
• Its airy, silky, pearly, pearly, non-greasy texture and pale pink colour are the result of a perfect knowledge of the galenic process combined with a real knack for manufacturing.
• Made up of 99% natural ingredients and 22% organic ingredients, the formula is bursting with ingredients from the processing of red fruits known for their beneficial properties for the skin (Cosme-Phytamis of raspberry and blackcurrant, pomegranate extract).
• Developed according to a responsible approach, the formula is certifiable according to the COSMOS standard and compatible with a Vegan approach (without ingredients of animal origin).
• Fragrance: olfactory pyramid evocative of “red fruits”.
• Very quickly absorbed, this red fruit mousse leaves a “glowy” and satin finish and gives the skin a feeling of comfort and vitality.

Ami Ingredients

Foaming, fun, natural, soft and sulfate-free.
“I don’t want to be pushed around, but they say I’m very funny! I twist all over the place, and I’m natural too! Who am I? Who am I? The sulphate-free foaming modelling clay developed by Ami ingredients!”

An abundant foam combined with a new playful gesture: our foamy modelling clay has been conceived naturally, both by its 98% natural composition, free of sulphates and preservatives, and by its nomadic and fun use thanks to its solid form, which can be shaped to infinity.

Key ingredients :
• Jordapon® Sci Power, gentle anionic surfactant, sulfate-free, solid foaming, non-irritating
• Citrofol® Ai Extra, versatile emollient COSMOS
• Vitacel® CS 20 FC, biodegradable alternative to synthetic touch powders, COSMOS, texturizing, soft Available in COSMOS version!


Discover our surprising gel to powder texture for this innovative eye shadow.
Thanks to Orgasol® UD Nat Cos , you will obtain a perfectly even coverage and intense color.
This sensory powder enhances the bouncy and velvet touch and facilitates the spreading of the eye shadow.
This minimalist formulation has an efficient drying and a long-lasting effect.
Try this playful and refreshing texture, ideal for calming and hydrating the skin!


Let yourself be surprised by this bouquet! Turn a flower into your “DIY minute cream”. Make your choice and follow the procedure to make the magic work!
Customize the texture according to the amount of water added to suit your skin type (mixed/dry), time of day (morning/evening), season or region (dry/wet climate).

The combination of RapiThixTMA-100, N-HanceTM BF17 and AqualonTM EC-N200 polymers, structuring and texturizing, with ProlipidTM141 emulsifier and waxes, allows the flower to be both resistant and easily transformable into a smooth and soft cream upon application.

So, what does your skin need today?
• A detox treatment with SerenitylTM, condurango extract, Andean vine with detoxifying effects?
• An energizing treatment thanks to SignalineTM S, composed of activated oils, to boost your cells?
• A repairing cream with EderlineTM S, apple seed oil extract, rich in phyto-nutrients with regenerating properties?

A bouquet garni? Combine the flowers as you wish!
Without water, without preservatives, this eco-responsible treatment will allow you to formulate your morning or evening ritual according to your needs!


With a simple pressure, this cleansing foam transforms into a perfectly sculpted rose.
This surprising development is due to the optimal combination of a specially designed formula and packaging.
The “Chantilly flower”, creamy and sensory, will wrap your skin to gently cleanse it and nourish it intensely.

Our key ingredients:
• Agenajel 20.383 and Agenaflo 9050 (Agrana): corn starches to stabilize the emulsion and bring smoothness and richness to the foam
• Dub Estoline® (Stéarinerie Dubois): polymer ester with a protective barrier effect, providing extreme comfort for cocooning effects and exceptional sensations of softness
• Hostapon® range (Clariant): ultra-gentle sulphate-free surfactants to counter the drying effect of soap bases
• GlucoTain® Sense (Clariant): natural surfactant (Palm Free and COSMOS) improves the sensory properties of your rinsed formulations and provides a more creamy foam
• WS SA50TM (Tagra): coated salicylic acid allowing the optimization of its solubilization and the prevention of coloration and recrystallization phenomena


Let yourself be surprised by our Blue Lagoon Sensation formula!
This jelly has the particularity of combining a stabilized suspension of micro-droplets of shea butter formed in-situ with exfoliating microbeads that respect the environment.
The magic works on application, when some exfoliate, others are released from the gelled network to melt on contact with the skin and thus reveal the immediate effectiveness of the product.

This exfoliating and enveloping combination is complemented by the cleansing and solubilizing ingredients of our gel.
The texture of this translucent gel is wiped or rinsed with water for a sensation of freshness and perfect cleanliness leaving a soft, light and silky finish, ideal for all skin types.
Our Blue Lagoon Sensation formula contains more than 96% natural ingredients and is environmentally friendly thanks to its exfoliating and biodegradable beads.


This minimalist powder formula is ideal for gentle facial cleansing.
It is the ideal solution for skin stressed by the harsh winter weather conditions.
Just a dab in the palm of your hand and a little water will already be enough to create a beautiful creamy lather. Gently massage this mixture on your face, rinse and enjoy the moment.
Discover a warming sensation in the palms of your hands as you prepare the foam, then a comforting and soothing effect by applying the product to your face.
Define the desired volume of foam according to your requirements by the intensity of friction.
Comfort your skin after the small daily aggressions: cold, stress, holiday toxins.
Its anhydrous and practical form will follow you on all your escapades.


Fruity ritual
Exfoliating make-up remover gel

This formula has been designed to meet the expectations of today’s consumers who want to optimize the time spent on their daily beauty routine while remaining attentive to the protection of the planet.
In the form of a single-dose gel and without individual packaging, “Fruity Ritual” is a unique beauty treatment that offers three steps for optimal make-up removal.

In the first line, small fat encapsulation beads will contribute to a gentle and perfumed make-up removal thanks to the oil of the Perle de la Prairie and the Beurre de Sapote.
The main ingredient of this jelly is Clementine paste, obtained by using a by-product from the manufacture of candied fruit. It brings a subtle citrus scent as well as a contrasting colouring with pieces of fruit, peels and zists that will allow a gentle exfoliation. The latter are coated with a washing gel that will leave a pleasant feeling of freshness.

This superb fruity gel is to be used on a wet face by applying directly its beaded base to the skin with circular movements, then finish the cleansing with the fingertips and rinse.


With Aqua’Pop, shake up your certainties!
Surprisingly, these little coloured bears are not made to be eaten!

These shower companions allow, after contact with water, to clean effectively and gently all types of skin, even the most sensitive. They replace shower gels in a fun way!
Its formula, which is light in ingredients (only new!), is rich in active ingredients. With 67% jasmine floral water and 2% Aqua’Protek®, its action provides hydration to the skin thanks to oregano extract and an anti-inflammatory action by jasmine.

In addition, offered in simple and reusable packaging, Aqua’pop is an environmentally friendly product and helps to fight against the excessive use of plastic.
It will be ideal for your travels, slipping into a small toilet bag!


A naturally fluorescent yellow colour and COSMOS certified (99% organic PPAI), a gourmet scent and a repairing power for the lips.
Biolie presents Funky Yellow Gloss!
This transparent O/W microemulsion, OK Cosmos, recombines the hydrophilic and lipophilic active fractions of the beech tree (Fagus sylvatica) in a Yin/Yang concept to take care of the lips and give them a good dose of fun under black light.
A symbol of trust, patience and gentleness, beech fights over the sovereignty of the forest with oak. A vital force, full of refinement, joy and femininity, beech offers us its fruit to enhance beauty.
Sylver, aqueous extract, boosts collagen production for plumped lips, while Beech seed oil, oily extract, repairs and protects dry and damaged lips with its omega 6 and 9 essential fatty acids.
Who has never dreamed of shining a thousand lights on his outings? Adopt Funky Yellow Gloss and test its power under black light.


Mind and Body Calming Mousse.
Discover all the sensory delicacy and nourishing power of sea buckthorn oil from the Tibetan highlands in this creamy moisturizing foam.
This light and aerial foam allows a simplified application of the product while optimizing its absorption.
The subtle blend of natural oils and emollients nourishes the skin and provides it with suppleness and comfort.


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