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Tuesday, September 16, 2014News

Allergens: what the industry has to say

© fotolia/L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

In late 2012, the SCCS’s final Opinion recommending a strict revision of fragrance allergen regulations sent ripples of concern throughout the entire cosmetics industry. On 11 September 2014, in a conference given at the Beyond Beauty trade show, FEBEA Director of Scientific and Regulatory Affairs Anne Dux presented the arguments and the industry’s responses.

Reading time
~ 9 minutes

The SCCS Opinion on fragrance allergens published in late December 2012 is based on two principles of risk management:
• Primary prevention, which involves avoiding induction by defining concentrations for use
• Secondary prevention, which involves informing allergic consumers through labelling

Measures and consequences

Having evaluating the fragrances present in cosmetic products, the experts recommend:
• Prohibiting Lyral® (INCI: Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde), with a deadline of two years to market compliant products and five years to remove noncompliant products from the market
• Prohibiting atranol and chloroatranol (present in tree moss, Evernia furfuracea, and oak moss, Evernia prunastri), with a deadline of two years to market compliant products and the same timeframe to remove noncompliant products from the market
• Reducing the authorised concentration to 100 ppm (0.01%) for 11 fragrance allergens
• Broadening the scope of information available to consumers for approximately 90 allergens, when they are present at concentrations greater than 0.01% in rinse-off products and 0.001% in leave-on products, with a transition period of two years to reach compliance.

For Anne Dux, these are “measures that don’t make any sense,” for several reasons.
• To define the authorised concentrations, the SCCS used the elicitation (or revelation) thresholds …

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