Sun protection is guaranteed by synthetic filters and/or mineral sunscreens. Some of them protect against UVBs, others against UVAs, and a few against both types of UV rays. Some of them can be used in the form of nanoparticles, while others are suspected of acting as endocrine disruptors, of having a more or less strong allergenic potential, or of being harmful for aquatic environments… Those that are authorized in cosmetics are assessed by European scientific experts and their conditions of use are detailed in Annex VI of the Cosmetics Regulation. But all this does not prevent the recurring controversies on their possible hazards… Here is a presentation of the main substances used, together with their characteristics, regulations, and data available as regards their safety.
INCI: Benzophenone-3
Substance identification
• Chemical name/INN/XAN: 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone / Oxybenzone
• No CAS: 131-57-7
• No EC: 205-031-5
Protection
• UVA
• UVB
Regulation
• ASEAN: authorised up to 6%
• Australia: authorised up to 10%
• Brazil: authorised up to 10%
• Canada: authorised up to 6%
• China: authorised up to 10%
• European Union: authorised up to 6% (Not more than 0.5% to protect product formulation) - From 28 January 2023, 6% in face products, hand products, and lip products; 2,2% in body products, including propellant and pump spray products, 0.5% in other products
• India: authorised up to 6% (Not more than 0.5% to protect product formulation)
• Japan: authorised up to 5%
• United States: authorised up to 6%
• South Korea: authorised up to 5%
Additional information
• Allergenic
• Suspected of systemic toxicity
INCI: Benzophenone-4
Substance identification
• Chemical name/INN/XAN: 5-Benzoyl-4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzenesulfonic acid / Sulisobenzone (BP-4)
• No CAS: 4065-45-6
• No EC: 223-772-2
Protection
• UVB
Regulation
• ASEAN: authorised up to 5% (as acid)
• …
