What influence do ozone and fine particles have on skin ageing? Which cosmetic active ingredients help protect the skin against environmental pollution? What beauty rituals to adopt to prevent wrinkles and loss of radiance? The point with three experts.
Ozone: UV protector but powerful oxidant
For Fabrice Lefèvre, Global Scientific Marketing Manager Induchem,"Ozone (O3) is one of the most oxidizing chemical compounds in the air. Present naturally in the atmosphere, it protects us from harmful UV rays (atmospheric ozone), but from pollution (terrestrial ozone), it is a major player in the chemical aggression of our skin.
ozone is concentrated in particular in large cities, but also in our daily environment: photocopiers generate ozone in our offices, for example.A definition shared by Leslie Carombo, Cosmetologist-Trainer Consultant:"Ozone has two radically different facets: in altitude, it protects from the antiradical effects of the sun's rays (UV). At low altitude, it becomes a formidable pollutant mixed with fine particles (CFC- chlorofluocarbons) and attacks the functioning of the skin".
Its effects on the skin
According to Guylaine Le Loarer, Director of Research and Development Börlind GmbH,"External factors such as dust, smoke, particles from road traffic and UV radiation can accelerate skin ageing. The consequences are deep wrinkles, loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin and pigment spots".In contact with the skin, says Fabrice Lefèvre,"ozone oxidizes all its compounds: proteins are denatured, the skin's natural antiradical defences are weakened (reduction of squalene) and lipids are degraded, releasing irritating fatty acids. The consequences are multiple, with in particular irritated or dull complexions during a daily exposure to ozone".For Leslie Carombo,"it can cause skin cancers and especially accentuate oxidative stress which causes different imperfections to the epidermis: skin irritation, skin sensitivity, redness, dehydration, dry skin, wrinkles, spots, acne, dull complexion... But theOzone mixed with water or essential oils in vaporization can have a cleansing, anti-inflammatory and disinfecting effect for the skin. And give it a soft and velvety appearance";
An adapted cleaning morning and evening
Leslie Carombo recommends to fight against this environmental pollution to"favour a cleansing adapted to its skin type and make-up removal morning and evening, opt for"barrier" care, which revitalize, moisturize and detoxify the skin".But also"to avoid asphyxiating the skin with products too covering (certain foundations and powder) or with certain active ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate. To privilege products with antioxidant effects, rich in fatty acids and vitamins and to have moisturizing products with a UV filter.
Not forgetting that"in addition to providing the right nutrients to the epidermis, we must not neglect a varied diet rich in antioxidants and drinking plenty of water".
For Fabrice Lefèvre:"Unlike fine particles, which can be protected by film-forming ingredients, the cosmetic fight against the effects of ozone is more difficult.
There are certain ingredients that act as molecular traps for ozone, deactivating it before it causes skin damage. For example Unicontrozon C-49 which is a concentrated extract of a European medicinal plant".