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Thursday, November 19, 2015Focus on French Launches

Golden current...

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Gold invites itself in facial cosmetics. In formulas as well as in packaging. If it is usual in make-up and varnishes with the approach of the holidays, it is it less so in the care… Masks, day creams, primers, balms for the lashesIts pure light warms our winter complexions. Christmas is coming !

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Until now, there was little facial care containing gold. La Prairie (Cellular Complex Radiance Pure Gold, Revitalizing Serum infused with gold, 30 ml, 564 €) and Odile Lecoin (Gold Serum, 25 ml, 205 €) were among the rare to offer colloidal gold serums, both anti-ageing (it boosts collagen production and reduces wrinkles) and instant radiance perfector. But, because of Christmas, the phenomenon is growing and"nuggets of care" are now invading our bathrooms!

Skin Jewels

Guerlain launches L'Or, a pure gold shine essence (30 ml, 60 €). This sublimating make-up base is formulated with 24-carat pure gold leaves. These were shaped into ultra-shiny, reflective particles and then dispersed in a moisturizing, smoothing gel. This can be applied before foundation or mixed with it. Guerlain also offers Abeille Royale Gold Eyetech, Regard Sculptor Serum (15 ml, 100 €), with a patented applicator, gilded with fine gold, as ergonomic as it is designed, which gently follows the eye area, optimizes all massage movements and helps to refresh and decongest the eye contour area.

Biocyte designs the Gold Mask (38 g, 12 €), a regenerating and anti-imperfection mask in bio-cellulose based on gold, silver and lactoferrin, sold individually.

As for the certified organic brand Clairjoie, its Jolihor Youth Privilege Care (50 ml, 80 €) combines magnifying and anti-aging active ingredients: gold, white flowers, hyaluronic acid.

Luxurious and precious complete ranges

In 1889, in Japan, the workers working in the gold leaf workshops were under very difficult conditions, especially for their skin. Thus, they got into the habit of making their own skin care products from unused gold powders, but also to exchange their traditional and natural beauty recipes, made thanks to what made their daily lives. Quickly, from a simple protective cream for damaged hands, a complete ritual developed: the Makanai brand (literally (the gift made to workers") was born. It proposes a Beauty oil with gold particles (20 ml, 39 €) or lip balms with gold particles and silk powder, perfumed with yuzu or incense (8 g, 18 €). Formulated with shea butter and vegetable oils (sunflower, jojoba), they prevent irritation due to cold and leave lips shiny and pulpy. You can also find at the Maison de la Culture du Japon in Paris a gold leaf mask polishing, always at Makanai (20 gold leaves 24 carats high adherence, 58 €). The principle is simple: the gold leaf is placed on a clean and just"creamed" face. Leave on for a minute, then apply a little beauty oil to the gold particles and gently massage the two together until all traces of gold disappear. According to the brand," this ritual leaves the skin luminous, radiant, reduces dark circles and pigmentation spots, and stimulates cell renewal ".

Gold Mine

By Terry creates a whole gold collection called Gold Gotha. There is a complexion enhancer infused with 24-carat gold microparticles (Gold Élixir Glacé, Premium Concentré Lumière Or 24 Carats, 30 g, 215 €, limited edition), lip balms illuminated with precious yellow gold reflections, white gold and pink gold (Baume de Rose Trio Deluxe, 10 g, 295 €, with a retractable jewel brush) or a limited edition of Baume de Rose with 24-carat gold particles (Gold Baume de Rose Parure, bottle with foam tip 1.2 g, 25 €). And finally, a fragrance box that combines Terry's five favourite scents (Bleu Paradis, Rêve Opulent, Ombre Mercure, Rouge Nocturne, Terryfic Oud, 5 x 8.5 ml, 155 €).

Hormeta, creator of oligocosmetics since 1949, could not, as for him, miss gold! The Swiss brand offers a whole range Horme™ Gold, for mature and/or very dry skin, enriched with fine gold particles that melt on the skin to reveal the beauty of the complexion: Re-Generation Cream (50 ml, 139 €), Re-Generation Serum (30 ml, 143 €) and Horme™Flash Golden Radiance Mask (50 ml, 79 €). Special mention to the latter, particularly welcome during the holiday season, which immediately smoothes and illuminates the skin, blurring signs of fatigue.

Orlane, for its part, combines fresh royal jelly and gold (24-carat gold and colloidal gold) in its anti-aging Crème Royale programme, a real queen's treatment! There are four exceptional treatments for the most demanding skins: Crème Royale (50 ml, 480 €), Élixir Royal (30 ml, 480 €), Crème Royale Yeux (15 ml, 250 €), Crème Royale Couture and Décolleté (50 ml, 260 €). According to the brand,"  24 carat pure gold is a rare metal that is perfectly tolerated, a powerful antioxidant and a natural anti-aging dopant. Colloidal gold potentiates the properties of 24-carat gold. Its detoxifying and anti-inflammatory properties and its surprising"insulating" power help the skin to fight against aggressions and free radicals. It stimulates cell metabolism and regeneration ".

On the Institute Care side…

Maria Galland develops the Golden Glow Care (135 €, limited edition), only during the holiday season in a selection of institutes. The"highlight" of this anti-aging treatment is a professional peel-off mask that combines 24-carat pure gold and pearl extract. The result is firmer skin and a more radiant complexion.

On the occasion of the end of year celebrations, the Spa Charme d'Orient imagines the "Nuit Étoilée" treatment (75 minutes, 115 €), a face and body ritual for a moment of beauty and sparkling well-being (modelling and wrapping from the soles of the feet to the shoulders with shea butter, leaving a light iridescent veil on the body).

Gold is also starting to radiate in perfume bottles (it will change us from black!), notably at L'Artisan Parfumeur, which offers one of its bestsellers: Mûre et Musc Extrême, in an all-gold bottle (100 ml, 195 €, limited edition).

Gold can also slip into the name of the perfume (Cartier Must Gold, eau de parfum, 50 ml, 89 € or 100 ml, 125 €). It's only a beginning that will perhaps be confirmed next year?

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics
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