CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques
Feb. 15, 2018Focus on French Launches

New wave hydration…

The 2018 vintage stands out with its peculiar ingredients (novel plant extracts, rare thermal water, use of probiotics…), booming concepts like neurocosmetics or anti-pollution, and sorbet or transforming textures. The gel texture and extreme sensoriality are at the forefront. As for hyaluronic acid, it asserts its ubiquity. In any case, whatever the added value highlighted, hydration remains the most everlasting skin need…

Anti-aging mainly requires hydration. No one can question that, especially not Guinot and their latest cream: Hydra Summum (50 ml, €90).
The same goes for the Carita Concentré Hydro Repulpant rich in hyaluronic acid and tripeptides (a plumping hydro-concentrate in the Les Précis range, 15 ml, €49.50).
So’Bio étic also advocates youth through hydration with Soin Hydratant Anti-rides Jour Précieux Argan (50 ml, €13.50, next March), ‘the first organic, anti-wrinkle moisturizer available in supermarkets’.
The flagship brand of the Léa Nature group has also developed a moisturizing serum, Sérum Hydratant+ Hydra Aloe Vera (30 ml, €10.90), one of the rare tube-packed serums for sensitive and reactive skins.

Gel textures and hyaluronic acid in the spotlight

The gel texture is used in the first Le Petit Marseillais face care products recently launched in supermarkets (Fraîcheur de Rose Gelée Hydratante Désaltérante, a thirst-quenching, fresh gel for normal to combination skins, and Éclat d’Abricot Gelée Hydratante Sublimante, a beautifying gel for normal to dry skins, 50 ml, €5.70).
Diadermine have also put this texture forward with cream-gels: Hydralist Gel-crème Désaltérant (50 ml, €9.90) and Sensibiafine in pharmacies (Gel-Crème Visage Hydratant Désaltérant Effet Fraîcheur for a sense of freshness, 50 ml, €15.90).
If the last two contain hyaluronic acid, Belif products do not: the new Korean brand wholly dedicated to hydration will be available in Sephora stores next March. Their best-seller (The True Cream Aqua Bomb, 50 ml, €35) actually features an alchemilla extract in an instantaneously-absorbed melting gel-cream texture – only Korean cosmetics brands know this secret.
L’Occitane have imagined the Aqua Réotier Ultra-Thirst Quenching Gel, named after a source that conceals both rare and precious water (50 ml, €28).

Urban hydration

In the Hydro Boost range, which also puts the emphasis on hyaluronic acid, Neutrogena provide additional protection against pollution and UV ray-related damages (Écran de Ville Fluide Hydratant SPF25 moisturizer, 50 ml, €9.90; Soin Réveil eye contour, 15 ml, €9.90).
As for Diadermine, they have developed the Hydralist Brume Fine Hydratante fine mist (100 ml, €9.90), a one-of-a-kind product in supermarkets which boosts hydration in skins confronted with urban dehydration.

A spate of sensoriality

No doubt you will shiver with the new Dior Hydra Life range, which features multiple textures for both freshness and hydration (sorbet, frozen…). Most formulas are natural and enriched in prebiotics (fermented sugar or rice milk proteins) to stimulate and rebalance the skin flora (Deep Hydration Sorbet Water Essence, 40 ml, €64; Fresh Hydration Sorbet Crème, 50 ml, €61; 2-in-1 Eau Fraîche Hydratation Rééquilibrante, 175 ml, €35.50; Soin Yeux Hydratation Givrée with a fresh ceramic tip, 15 ml, €49).
As for Laboratoire Promicea, they have placed neurocosmetics at the core of their latest moisturizing cream (SciTech Crème hydratante, 50 ml, €49). The patented active extracted from brown algae helps maintain optimum cell communication. The quick-break texture has not been left behind. This water-in-oil emulsion breaks down when applied on the skin and turns into water. If the aqueous phase accounts for more than 90%, the cream provides true comfort.

Ariane Le Febvre

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