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Thursday, December 10, 2015Focus on French Launches

Makeup removers in the spotlight this winter

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

It is unusual for them to take centre stage in the middle of winter, but it is a fact, cosmetic brands, certified organic as conventional, have given themselves the word to launch innovations in this sector. The new cleansers are the superheroes of the moment.

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While make-up removal is regularly launched throughout the year, this winter, the brands have decided to reconcile us with this essential gesture to the beauty of our skin, to transform what seems to be a"chore" for many women into a moment of pleasure. Main critic? He's taking too long. The objective of the new products: to remove make-up quickly and well, to increase sensoriality, to find more practical solutions, to create a purification ritual which makes it possible to leave one's"social mask" and to"wash" one's day to become oneself again.

Cat or fish?

According to Nivea, which this month is launching the first make-up remover to be used in the shower (Démaquillant Sous la Douche, 150 ml, 3.95 €, with one reference for all skin types and the other for sensitive skin), 22 million women regularly apply make-up in France and therefore remove make-up (Source: Nivea BHT 2013 Harris Interactive). 50 % of them remove make-up in the evening and morning (Source: Omnibus Nivea, Harris Interactive, 300 women, 2014). The brand distinguishes two profiles: cat (we hate water, we like cotton and micellar water, or, more adapted to winter, milk and lotion) or fish (we love water, we feel the need to rinse to feel clean, we plebiscite foams, oils and cleansing gels). Rightly so, because in the end, it is THE question that really divides women when we examine their make-up removal habits: with or without water? The other priority is to remove make-up effectively, because with more and more tenacious make-up, especially mascaras, you often wake up with panda eyes! For the 45% of French women who shower in the evening (88% of whom use a shower gel to wash their face!), this novelty can therefore be the solution. No need for cotton. A single product that gently removes make-up from the face and eyes, without rubbing and preserving the hydrolipidic film. Thanks to the combination of a hydrogel and an oleogel (we know that make-up removers must contain lipophilic and hydrophilic agents, make-up products being at the same time composed of lipidic and aqueous molecules), make-up removal becomes fast and effective.

Cocooning make-up removal…

Absolution, Lodesse, Sanoflore… honour to the new cleansers certified organic which pamper the skin and are really worth to be discovered.

Lodesse Velvety Make-up Remover (200 ml, 26 €) is a rich and creamy milk that turns into oil after a few moments of massage. It contains 70% vegetable oils and leaves a very comfortable feeling of nutrition and flexibility. Cherry on top, it smells like almond blossoms!

Absolution Gentle Cleansing Cream (125 ml, 39 €) is just as benevolent and comforting!

As for Sanoflore, from February, the brand will offer a whole range of make-up remover called Acacia Botanica with 10% organic blueberry floral water, with antioxidant, soothing, decongestant and protective properties: - Mousse d'Eau Nettoyante, 150 ml, 14 € ; - Micellar Cleansing Water, 200 ml, 13,50 € ; - Gentle Cleansing Milk, 200 ml, 14 €.

With an innovative double transformation texture that promises a new sensoriality (Acacia Botanica Cleansing Oil Jelly, 125 ml, 18 €). Between the freshness of a gel and the richness of an oil, it eliminates all make-up, including waterproof, leaving the sensation of a well hydrated epidermis. Its fatty phase higher than 80% (sunflower oil, fatty acids…) gives it high emollient characteristics. All Acacia Botanica make-up removers also contain very gentle 100% natural surfactants derived from brown cane sugar.

Luxury brands are not left to pamper the skin during make-up removal: - Sublimage Démaquillant Confort Suprême de Chanel, 150 ml, 88 € - Crème de Beauté, Crème Démaquillante Pureté Éclat de Guerlain, 200 ml, 65 €.

… or cleaning with water

Associated with detox, black cleansers continue their momentum (see Zoom News Plant charcoal, the emerging black ), such as Natura Siberica Detoxifying Soap from the Far North, certified ICEA (120 ml, 15 €, at Monoprix), which allows, on a basis of activated carbon, wild herbs and berry extracts, called"Nordic blend" (sea buckthorn, Siberian pine, linseed and raspberry oils, bilberry and birch bud extracts…), a deep facial cleansing that leaves the complexion luminous. Sold with a black sponge, its smell is delicious!

Hervé Herau offers a top-of-the-range anti-aging duo that revives cellular dynamics. It consists of a cleanser that rinses off with water and a gel lotion to massage on his face (The Way of Alchemy, Face Cleanser Care, 100 ml, 65 € and Gel Lotion Care, 100 ml, 60 €).

The acneic skins weakened by the drying treatments are not forgotten (Effaclar H Moisturizing dermo-soothing cleansing cream La Roche-Posay, 200 ml, 12,90 €).

Finally, Neutrogena helps to eliminate pimples and prevent their reappearance as soon as you wash (Visibly Clear Spot Control Cleansing Gel, 200 ml, €5.95).

Micellar waters with"a little something extra"!

Micellar waters are often blamed for not removing waterproof mascara, or for irritating delicate skin. Those forgets are now fixed! The SVR Dermatological Laboratory has just launched a micellar water which removes all make-up even waterproof (Physiopure Micellar Magnesium Oxygenating Water, 200 ml, 7.50 €).

Here again, certified organic micellar waters have nothing to envy to others! Patyka offers a Micellar Blueberry Floral Water Jelly for all sensitive skin types (150 ml, 26 €). The Micellar Cleansing Water Acacia Botanica of Sanoflore contains a polymer of natural origin (xanthan gum) which gives it a slightly textured aspect and a great softness of application, just to cushion the frictions related to cotton !

The new generation micellar water offers added value. It can be a new"pump-inverted" bottle, like the Collector edition of Bioderma's Créaline H2O, recently relooked by Internet users via the brand's Facebook page (Micellar Cleansing Solution, 500 ml, 14.50 €). Or Baïja's exfoliating formula, enriched with fruit acids, hyaluronic acid, pomegranate and sugar maple extracts (Micellar Face Water, 200 ml, €19.90).

Let us finally mention in another register the Make Up Eraser cleansing towel (20,55 €, at Sephora, from the end of January). Thanks to its 100% polyester fibres, it removes make-up when moistened and can be reused up to 1000 times!

Ariane Le Febvre

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