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Friday, January 20, 2017Focus on French Launches

Nail varnish is going green

© CosmeticOBS-L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

From now on, you will find quite surprising ingredients in the composition of nail varnish, like radish, manioc, or potato… Everyone knows that right now, nail varnish cannot be organic-certified. Some have already tried, but without success: it does need a bit of chemistry to meet expectations in terms of long wear, quick drying, colour radiance, and easy removal. However, what is interesting is that formulas are more and more natural and safe for our nails.

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Every brand has adopted their own slogan: ‘7 free’ or ‘5 free’ formulas, meaning free from the most disparaged chemicals in nail varnish: DBP (Dibutyl phthalate), phthalate, phthalate resin, formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, toluene, synthetic camphor… What is better than that?

Colorisi has developed ‘9 and 10 free’ nail varnish formulas (8ml, €10, 10 shades, as from April 3), free from the seven ingredients mentioned above, but also from formalin, parabens, xylene, styrene, benzophenone, and rosin (except for one shade, which may contain rosin traces). All in all, they contain up to 80% of natural ingredients and are enriched with fortifying organic silicon. And the icing on the cake is that the brand also targets allergic individuals with nail varnish free from nickel and gluten! Lastly, they claim they are ‘vegan’, which means their products contain no material of animal origin.

The same goes for Aroma Zone ready-for-use nail varnish, which will finally be launched in February (6ml, between €2.90 and 3.50, depending on the shades, seven shades all in all + a top coat). Respectful of animal wellness – to their fingertips… and down to insects – these formulas do not contain any cochineal (obtained from this small insect that is crushed to extract its red colourant). Instead, you will find a plant-derived base with agro-solvents derived from potatoes, manioc, wheat, and corn, but also (although it is rarer) plant pigments derived from red radish, pink sweet potatoes, elderberries, or… spirulina!

Increasingly natural formulas

Again, there is a build-up in percentages.
To Kartika, the creator of Kure Bazaar, one of the first brands to have developed, as soon as 2012, ‘as natural as possible’ nail varnish based on plant-derived solvents, pulpwood, cotton, corn, potato, and wheat, ‘85% is the maximum percentage of naturalness you can reach to guarantee an irreproachable formula, without any compromise on long-lastingness, colour, and shininess.’ Indeed, her initial choice was to combine an eco-friendly formula and the vibrant colours of Parisian fashion. And it is a success, as the packaging is seducing, and the shades are really attractive, like the latest Rose Nude Collection or Rouge Stiletto (10ml, €16). As a matter of fact, these ‘eco-trendy’ formulas were selected straight away by the high-profile Bon Marché Rive Gauche department store.

Bo.Ho Green Make-up nail varnish offers the same composition style (5ml, €5.99, 44 shades), as it is endowed with a UV filter (not very green) which acts against nail discolouration or yellowing, and is also enriched with silica.

Naturalness in nail varnish has also settled in supermarkets! For example, Essence Cosmetics (distributed in Auchan supermarkets) has launched the Nail Polish Little Beauty Angels collection, which comprises three original ‘beautifying’ nail varnish products based on tea extracts and argan oil (8ml, €2.49), in three pastel shades: pale pink, mint green, and lilac. The first brightens the nails, the second evens tone differences, and the third reduces nail yellowing.
The brand has also developed the Glow & Care Luminous Nail Polish (8ml, €2.29), a new range based on kukui nut oil to reinforce and protect the nails.

But the king of natural varnish in supermarkets is still So’Bio étic, who just keep going and will launch three new ‘7 free’  nail varnish shades this spring, with biosourced ingredients and fortifying organic castor oil: Blanc French, Rouge Coquelicot, Prune Noire (10ml, €8.90, 12 shades all in all, as from next March).

Let’s finish with the two bases of the new ‘Organic’ range by Hérôme. The first is a 2-in-1 formula, Base + Top Coat, with pistacia resin (10ml, €15.50). The second is a Strong Hardener with Rose des Alpes stem cell extracts (10ml, €16.50).

Ariane Le Febvre

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