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Thursday, October 2, 2014Focus on French Launches

Perfect skin care

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Beautiful skin without makeup is every woman's dream. The new radiance in 2014 comes through these facial perfectors (the simple word radiance is no longer enough on a pack), which are divided into 2 categories: mattifiants that tighten pores (for 30-year-olds) and anti-stain (for older ones). But they all make a prettier skin surface right away. These new generation cosmetic"photoshoppers" are flocking this fall. They are even starting to come in certified organic versions, for the body or… for men!

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After the Blur (a"tracing" effect on the complexion), the"miracle" treatments (cousins of BB creams with pigments that adapt to the complexion of each) and other"ideal skin", in the wake of the brands of the L'Oréal group (Vichy first with its Idéalia franchise, then Sanoflore, Biotherm, L'Oréal Paris, Garnier…), the time has come for perfector treatments that improve skin texture and quality. The more"classic" ones refine the skin texture, tighten the pores and mattify the epidermis. The newer ones are combined with an anti-stain. As for textures, serums and creams dominate, but there are also"cream serums", fluids and even lotions! Filorga announced in December a Perfecting Solution (100 ml, 29 €), in its Skin Perfusion range distributed in institutes, a liquid peel based on gluconolactone (derived from glucose), which is as powerful but better tolerated than AHAs.

The category"pore tighteners"

Rather for women in their thirties, when wrinkles and sagging are not yet a major concern, they are aimed at women who are primarily looking for a global correction of skin quality. Their"pretty skin texture" active ingredients are a bit always the same: fruit acids or salicylic acid for a"peeling-like" effect and ingredients pore-minimizer such as pore-reducing sealant. This is the case of Perfect + Perfect Skin Serum from Filorga (30 ml, 54.90 €, in November) which also offers a beautiful golden glow, thanks to an extract of rapeseed whose action is similar to that of a light self-tanner, as well as extracts of white sapphire, presented in the form of flat crystals, which increase the reflection of light and give a glow immediately to the face. With its blurring and mattifying charges close to the skin's refractive index, radiance is also part of Biotherm's Skin.Best Serum-In-Cream programme (30 ml, 49 €), a unique creamy serum based on astaxanthin (a powerful natural antioxidant) and spirulina, an algae that boosts the skin's energy. Matte finish still thanks to pine and bamboo powders for Inixial Perfection Matte Balancing Care (40 ml, 24.90 €), which tightens pores and helps reduce imperfections (vegetable salicylic acid, iris/zinc/vitamin A complex). As for Pink Perfect Crème, Soin éclat perfection from Erborian (45 ml, 33 € or 15 ml, 12.50 €), which has just been released by Sephora, it uses the astringent properties of khaki (a fruit with a high tannin and flavonoid content that helps tighten pores) and horsetail extract to improve skin quality. Without pigments, but endowed with a pink color, this melting balm offers a blurred effect pearled all in transparency, a little like a tights veil which dresses and embellishes the legs. L'Oréal Paris Perfect Sublimist Anti-Fatigue Day Care (35 ml, €12.40) uses chromatic micro-beads (in other words, pigments) and Perline to tighten and refine pores. We can also classify in this category, although it is clearly positioned as the"Roll's" of anti-aging, the very luxurious Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Elixir Duo Remodeling Perfector of Estée Lauder Skin (30 ml, 355 €, from November 3). In addition to its"black diamond" truffle extract which preserves the skin's youthful appearance, the brand rightly tells us that with age, the loss of firmness can bring out the appearance of pores. This pore sagging, which affects an increasing number of women, is corrected by a brown seaweed extract that refines the pores and makes them less visible, for a more even-looking skin. With regard to the luminosity of the complexion, extracts of pearls from the South Seas and illuminating optical technologies make it possible to perfect the skin's natural radiance.

Certified organic

The Perfect Skin Serum Thermal Water from Jonzac (30 ml, 24.10 €), uses an angelica extract to smooth the skin texture. It can be applied to all skin types, even sensitive. Also certified organic, My Perfect Skin Serum by Ami Iyök is a mattifying and unifying serum that tightens pores (15 ml, 62 €).

The anti-stain category

Here, antioxidant active ingredients and vitamin C and its derivatives take precedence. As in RoC's Pro-Renove anti-ageing range, which acts as much on skin texture as on pigment spots, thanks to a polyvalent active ingredient of synthetic origin: Hexinol™ (Unifying Anti-ageing Fluid, 40 ml, 27.90 € or Rich Unifying Anti-ageing Fluid Cream, 50 ml, 27.90 €). This exclusive and patented Johnson & Johnson molecule has been used in cosmetics for over 30 years to stabilize the pH of formulas. RoC laboratories have discovered that in high doses, it has anti-aging power, particularly lifting and firming. Yves Rocher, in its Zéro Défaut range, uses the powers of 2 plant extracts: licorice, to regulate melanin synthesis, and white lupin to eliminate cells highly concentrated in melanin and stimulate cell renewal (Anti-stain perfector serum, 30 ml, 37.80 € or Anti-stain perfector fluid Day SPF 30, 50 ml, 37.80 €, in November). Pearlixime Soin Perfecteur Lumière SPF 20 by Ixxi (50 ml, 37 €) combines its OPC antioxidant pine (polyphenol family) with an extract of sea fern to reduce and prevent the appearance of stains. Estée Lauder's Enlighten Perfect Radiance Correction Cream (50 ml, €70, starting November 3) is highly moisturizing and helps the skin maintain its natural repair processes to stay even. Even the new Lightening Serum Le Blanc de Chanel (30 ml, 118 €), with its vitamin C derivative (Ascorbyl glucoside) and its fine pearl and lily extracts for one day, unifies the skin by refining its texture and amplifying its luminosity.

Men too!

Women do not have the ideal skin monopoly, men will also be entitled to it in 2015! Next January, Vichy Homme will launch Idealizer (50 ml, €24.40), a perfector treatment that the brand calls"lifeproof" (that is, it resists life!). It will be available in 2 versions: for beard wearers or those shaved close up.

And even for the body

Ahava proposes the Dead Sea Concentrate Osmoter™ Special Body, a brightness and texture correcting serum (pump bottle 100 ml, 40 €, November 1st). This precious care transforms the skin to give it a younger, firmer and brighter appearance. It corrects its texture for a unified aspect and a velvety touch. A trail to follow, perhaps more in good weather, when you start to reveal your skin…

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics
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