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Wednesday, April 30, 2014Focus on French Launches

Perfuming skincare waters

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Ideal for sunny days, these perfumed waters not only reveal more and more effective moisturizing virtues, but also scientifically proven benefits on well-being. Zoom on the cosmetic news of the week by Ariane Le Febvre.

Reading time
~ 5 minutes

Exquisite when mercury climbs, scented skincare waters are the fastest way to hydrate your body and smell good in one step. They are particularly appreciated in summer, because they do not leave a greasy substance on the epidermis, but airy and aqueous"soft skin" agents (glycerin, aloe vera, vegetable extracts of kiwi or ginseng, emollients derived from corn…) that do not make the skin perspire.

If, until now, they hydrated everything in lightness, their hydrating capacity is more and more demonstrated. Thus, those of Lierac, formulated without alcohol (Sensory Fresh Toning Water with 3 citrus blossoms or Sensory Moisturizing Care Water with 3 white flowers, in sprays of 100 ml, 33.40) offer"the freshness of water and the hydration of milk", ensuring hydration that lasts 24 hours.

Intimate and discreet fragrances

Their delicate scents do not invade others, which is always pleasant when it is hot. Small happiness"for oneself", they do not impose themselves and charm with sobriety and measure, such as the new Eau Délassante Parfumante by Nuxe Body. (100 ml, 28,50 €), a relaxing and refreshing care water, while enveloping the skin in a veil of caressing softness. Its notes of coconut sorbet and white flowers, white musks and wild vanilla ("my skin smells good" atmosphere) provide immediate pleasure, as well as an ultimate touch of sensuality.

They are more or less moisturizing and odorous. Yves Rocher's (Eau de soin végétal, 100 ml, €12.90; introductory price: €6.90 from May 5 to June 22) with organic aloe vera pulp from Mexico is thirst quenching and invigorating, but not very fragrant. Embryolisse (Eau Parfumante, spray 100 ml, 28 €), is a good compromise between citrus fragrance (grapefruit, orange, lemon) and satinizing agents (glycerin of vegetable origin, aloe vera, hyaluronic acid). On the other hand, that of L'Occitane in Provence (Hydratant Fraîcheur Frisson de Verveine, 250 ml, 23 €, from June) is almost a perfume in its own right!

The Body Mist (Body mist) so popular with Anglo-Saxons (they make a"cardboard" in the United States) are also found in certified organic brands such as Acorelle which offers no less than three, based on alcohol and organic moisturizing glycerin (Marine Sage Scent Mist, Absolute Fruit Balancing Scent Mist, Exquisite Vanilla Scent Mist, 100 ml, 12 € each).

Proven aromacological benefits!

But what we are discovering and measuring is the feeling of well-being that they distill. A new study conducted by Dr Arnaud Aubert of the Spincontrol Laboratory (an independent establishment specialising in the evaluation of cosmetic products) has just been carried out by Roger&;Gallet pour son Eau des Bienfaits, a deliciously citrus composition with essential oils of blood orange, mandarin, bergamot, lemon and bigarade petit-grain, with a note of mint, enriched with aloe vera, vegetable extracts of kiwi and ginseng, as well as sweet lemon acids to smooth the skin (new vaporizer diffusing like a mist 100 ml, 32,60 €). This study, which is entitled"positive emotions and well-being associated with the prolonged use of a scented water" has proven the aromacological benefits and the effect on the well-being of Beneficial Water. It was conducted with two groups of 22 women over 14 days. Group A used the Water of Blind Benefits every day. Group B used its usual scented water every day. At the end of the 14 days, the first group revealed lower stress (one of the main functional markers of well-being) for 79% of women, with an associated declaration of well-being. Proving the aromacological effects of a fragrance, and moreover in the long term, had not yet been achieved. What used to be a subjective feeling is now confirmed by a scientific study. To objectively evaluate well-being, the Spincontrol Laboratory used various cognitive tests, such as the Stroop test, frequently used in neuropsychology, which measures emotional reactions (voice and breathing rhythm modulations, muscular tensions, etc.).

Some precautions…

Rich in essential oils (often citrus, the most photo-sensitizing) and most of the time containing alcohol (to check in the ingredient lists), scented waters should not be applied in the sun (unless specified on the case). If you can use them in the morning in your bathroom in an urban setting where you are protected by clothing, it's better to forget them if you have to stay outside a good part of the day.

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics
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