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Thursday, May 15, 2014Focus on French Launches

Summer decoy time!

© L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

A little disgraced last year, the self-tanner is back in style this spring, thanks to new innovations, more"in tune" with consumers' desires. Body make-up is back on the scene. Zoom on the cosmetic news of the week by Ariane Le Febvre.

Reading time
~ 6 minutes

Many women are apprehensive about exposing their skin in the early days. The self-tanner is very practical to avoid the complex"white skin" and store foundation or tights until the following season. The look is good, even if the self-tanner does not hide anything of the cutaneous defects (it would rather tend to accentuate them, in particular the black points, because of the oxidation which it generates). As a reminder, it does not protect against UV rays but offers a significant advantage: it allows you not to run after your tan (or less) by overexposing yourself. Easier to live with, without"carrot" effect (the combination of DHA - Dihydroxyacetone and Erythrulose, with a more harmonious result, is adopted by the greatest number), its perfume is much more pleasant and the textures dry quickly and facilitate spreading. This spring, the numerous innovations allow self-tanners to return to the front of the stage.

A simpler gesture

One of Clarins' most original inventions is: Addition Concentré Éclat, Auto-bronzant Hâle à mesure (15 ml, or 3 months of use depending on the brand, 25 €) is a self-tanning concentrate (packaged in dropper bottles) of which 3 drops are mixed with its usual facial care. Highly concentrated in DHA, its use is simple and modular at will. The idea is ingenious and the result much less likely to lead to traces and other streaks.

Shades of tan…

Other interesting creations that allow the intensity of the tan to be adjusted to each complexion, those in Lancaster's Self Tan Beauty range, distributed by geographical location, a fun and meaningful way to visualize tanning! Thus, the clearest self-tanner is called"Week-end In Capri" (Self-Tanning Gel for Face & Body Natural Male Progressive, 01 Light, 125 ml, 35 €), the medium,"A Week In Ibiza" (Instant Golden Tanning Comfort Cream for Face & Body, 01 Light, 125 ml, 35 €), the medium,"A Week In Ibiza" (Instant Golden Tanning Comfort Cream for Face & Body), and the"A Week In Ibiza" (Instant Golden Tanning Comfort Cream for Face & Body); Body, 02 Medium, 125 ml, 35 €) and the darkest"Trip to Copacabana" (Self-Tanning Delight Face & Body, Tan Sublime Intense, 03 Intense, 200 ml, 35 €) ! All formulas contain DHA of plant origin combined with melanin to mimic the skin's natural tan, which reduces the risk of orange tones. They are also enriched with fillers and soft focus pigments, antioxidant and moisturizing agents (macadamia oil, coconut water extract…) and Tan Activator Complex (sweet orange extract and buriti oil) to stimulate the rise of natural melanin and its homogeneous distribution on the skin's surface. Doped by this natural pigment, the self-tanning result blends much better.

Face and body formulas

We appreciate the practicality of these self-tanners that can be applied to the face and body, one of the trends of the season. They are found in very diverse textures: serum at L'Oréal Paris (Sublime Bronze Autobronzing Serum Extraordinary effect return from face & face holidays body, 100 ml, 12.90 €), mist for Payot (Sun Minute Self Tanning Mist face and body, 125 ml, 25 €), milk at Topicrem (Self Tanning Milk face and body, natural progressive tan Glamour Care, 200 ml, 11.50 €), or Les Cosmétiques Design Paris (Hydra-Satinized Self Tanning Milk face & body with tiare flower Sun Ultimate, 6.79 €, in Carrefour stores).

Special face

From hyper natural progressive self-tanner, to be preferred if the skin is clear (Sun Care Self Tanning Veil with Uncaria d'Amazonie Galénic, 40 ml, 16 €), to a tan that lasts a week (1 Week Natural Bronzer Radiant Complexion Self Tanning Cream special face Garnier Ambre Solaire, 50 ml, 9.90 €), including organic self-tanner, with vegetable DHA, extracted from rapeseed oil (Lavera Facial Self Tanning Cream, 50 ml, 10 €)…, to each her own! Practical, the tinted self-tanner makes it possible to judge immediately the good spreading (Sunific Self-tanner Tinted Jelly Face & Décolleté Lierac, 40 ml, 26 €). Diorskin Nude Tan Prime & Bronze (30 ml, 39.50 €, 2 shades: light or dark skins), the first special summer foundation, combines"primer" and progressive self-tanner to enhance a light tan. As for Sampar's new Crazy Cream Tan (30 ml, 35 €, 2 shades, at Sephora), it contains neither self-tanner nor sun filters, but unifying micro-encapsulated pigments, as well as a biotechnological molecule (Uvaxine) that hydrates and stimulates the skin's self-protection against UV rays.

A range of body textures

Creamy milk (Super Self Tanning Body Moisturizer Sisley, 150 ml, 80 €) or moisturizing cream to offset the drying effects of DHA (Self Tanning Light Cream Thalgo, 150 ml, 23 €), gels (Terracotta Sunless Self Tanning Gel Guerlain Tinted Tanner, 150 ml, 48 € ; Polysianes Klorane Self Tanning Jelly, 100 ml, 13.20 €) or foam (Vita Liberata Perfect Tanning Kit, including a 2-3 week Medium 50 ml Self Tanning Mousse, a 30 ml Moisturizing Scrub and an applicator glove, 29 €, at Sephora)… there is something for everyone!

Body make-up in the spirit of the times

Tinted, these formulas without transfer dry immediately, do not stain clothes (better still avoid white lingerie) and can be removed with water and soap or shower gel (water-soluble pigments). They naturally color the skin, in all transparency, without covering effect. Their golden mother-of-pearls catch the light and sublimate the skin. They are available at Sisley (Phyto-Touche Body Tinted Gel, 100 ml, 70 €), Vita Liberata (24 Carats Silken Shimmer, Body Tinted Gel, 200 ml, 25 €) and Marionnaud (Sunny Body Gel, 100 ml, 12,90 €).

The art of autobronzing

No good results on dry and rough skin. The day before the self-tanner is applied, it is erased and hydrated. You have to be methodical: the product is applied from bottom to top for the body, with wide smoothing movements, then the same areas are ironed without using the product again, this time in small circular movements. We finish with the feet and knees. After application, pat dry and thick areas (elbows, knees, heels) with a damp cotton pad. The same applies to the face: smoothing is done from the centre of the face towards the contours, followed by small circular movements. Avoid the hairline and eyebrows or blend these areas with a cotton swab. To dilute the effect, especially around the eyes, a treatment is applied before the self-tanner. The applications are to renew according to the desires of tanning: every day for an intense tan, every two or three days for a more subtle result. Don't forget to wash your hands after each application. And we prefer small capacities (self-tanners are products that degrade and oxidize quickly, it is better not to keep them from one year to the next).

Ariane Le Febvre

The Observatory of Cosmetics
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