Thursday, January 24, 2019Focus on French Launches

Vegan formulas are invading the hair market!

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A step above in naturalness and respect for life, the vegan products, even if they are different from organic certification, becomes a little bit the new organic! Even if this underlying trend also affects skin care, it is particularly present in hair care. Why, how? We are trying to find answers…

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This may seem surprising, and after all not so much because there were a lot of ingredients of animal origin in the hair products (especially in smoothing products).
This trend affects all distribution channels and the most trendy brands (Kevin Murphy, Maria Nila, j.f. Lazartigue, Huygens…), such as the trendiest hair salons (Massato, David Mallett, Marisol…) or the mastodons of the market (L’Oréal Paris, Yves Rocher, Eugène Perma…).

Do not confuse organic and vegan certifications

Organic and vegan certifications are different, although consumers tend to mix them up. “In people’s minds, vegan is becoming a bit like the new generation of organic products, even if we can have a vegan certification (editor’s note: excluding all substances of animal origin, animal testing for cosmetic products being banned since 2004 and their ingredients since 2013 in the EEC) without being certified organic, this is our case. We still have a high naturalness rate (95% on average) and all our formulas are sulfate- and silicone-free,“ says Sophie Goldberger, general manager of j.f. Lazartigue, which has just been acquired by the Filorga group and completely redesigned (packs and formulas).

Thus, of the 50 references, 90% will be vegan by next September. “Hair cares and in particular anti-loss and smoothing lines used quite a few ingredients of animal origin (ray cartilage, allantoin, milk casein, collagen or keratin of animal origin…), we removed them all. The vegan crystallizes a profound transformation of our way of consuming. Today and even more so tomorrow. Animal respect is at the heart of these new expectations, but also the fight against hyper-consumption and the refocusing on the real. The vegan certification is subject to drastic guidelines, from PETA* or the British Vegan Society (an independent external organization symbolized by a sunflower), it is the certification we have chosen for our products. The latter thus prohibits coconut oil from coconuts collected by monkeys! So of course our products will not be distributed in China (editor’s note: which requires animal testing), but I am convinced that China will eventually soften its regulations. In September (when the new visual identity will be unveiled), our packs - like our formulas which are already eco-responsible - will also be eco-responsible (organic PP for the tube as well as for the fully recyclable capsule),“ she added.
Among the latest innovations, the purifying massage gel before shampooing (75 ml, €31) or the high nutrition mask with shea butter (200 ml, €45).

Vegan is omnipresent in “trendy” hair brands….

Thus, all customizable shampoos and conditioners from Huygens are 100% cruelty-free (Morning Mix Shampoo, 250 ml, €17 or Morning Mix Conditioner, 250 ml, €22).

The same applies to Massato products. Among the new features:
• Detox Cleansing Care with microalgae, 200 ml, €42
• Japanese oil with cherry extract, 100 ml, €69
• Smooth & Care Kit, 3 X 100 ml, €55

Maria Nila, a Swedish brand, is 100% vegan and sulphate-free, with certified eco-responsible packaging. Latest news (from February):
• Invisidry Shampoo, dry shampoo without sulfate (250 ml, €24, from February),
• Curlicue Cream, a rich and moisturizing cream for curly and wavy, dry and curly hair (100 ml, €26)
• Quick Dry Heat Spray, a protective spray that accelerates drying (150 ml, €24)

We can also mention Christophe Robin’s Aloe Vera Moisturizing Solid Shampoo (100 g, €16) or David Mallett’s care and shampoos (Shampoo N°3 La Couleur, 250 ml, €35).

Last minute: developed by Jean-Michel Karam (creator of Ioma), the 11 formulas of the new Elénature Hair Care brand, available from spring, are certified organic (Cosmébio) and vegan.
Among these:
• Shampoos without sulphate (for frequent use by the family), 250 ml, €29
• For dry and damaged hair, or coloured and highlighted hair (250 ml, €32 each)
• 2 in 1 Shampoo and Nourishing Solid Conditioner Bar (€18) • Volumizing Dry Shampoo (50 ml, €25)
• The Hair Moisturizing Mist without rinsing (100 ml, €25)
• Nutri Protective Serum for dry and damaged tips (50 ml, €36)
• The Restructuring Repair Mask (200 ml, €38)
• The Protective Anti-Pollution Hair Mist without rinsing (100 ml, €27)
• The Conditioner Balm Detangling and Nourishing Conditioner (150 ml, €32)
• The Intense Nutritive Mask (200 ml, €38)

… but also among the market giants in supermarkets

Like L’Oréal Paris or the Eugène Perma group, which is launching a new Naturanove brand from Kéranove, with both organic and vegan certification.
You can find Calendula Shampoo certified organic for all hair types, Walnut for fine and fragile hair or organic nettle for oily hair (250 ml, €5.50 each), Oat Mask certified organic for dry hair (200 ml, €6.90), etc.

As for L’Oréal Paris, a dramatic turn of events next February, the entire Botanicals Fresh Care line will be switched to vegan, with at least 97% of its formulas biodegradable from natural sources, without sulphate, silicone or colouring agents, in 100% recycled packaging.
It offers 4 ranges :
• Soothing Lavender (for delicate hair)
• Ginger & Coriander Source of Strength (for fragile hair), Argan & Safflower Infusion Richesse (for dry hair)
• Rose and Geranium for coloured hair (Shampoos 400 ml, € 6.90; Detangling Balms, 200 ml, €6.90) • Nourishing, Radiance or Fortifying potion without rinsing, 125 ml, €10.90
• Pre-shampoo oil 150 ml, €8.90; Mask 200 ml, €6.90)

As we can see, this very promising trend is a real tidal wave and it is not about to stop. We can only be delighted….

*PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) is a non-profit association dedicated to establishing and protecting the rights of all animals. Since 1980, PETA has been fighting animal cruelty, trying to convince many organizations and legislators to stop their exploitation. Its “Cruelty Free” label (the “Leaping bunny” rabbit) is a confidence criterion to help consumers identify beauty products that are humane to animals.

Ariane Le Febvre
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