CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques

Oakmoss Extract Add to my portfolio
pro subscription only feature
see our subscription plans

INCI Name
Evernia prunastri extract
English name
Oakmoss Extract
CAS No.
90028-68-5 / 9000-50-4 / 68917-10-2
CE No.
289-861-3 / - / -

Origins

  • Plant

CosIng functions

  1. Perfuming

Regulation

Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, Annex III/91

Restrictions
• The presence of the substance must be indicated in the list of ingredients when its concentration exceeds:
> 0.001% in leave-on products
> 0.01% in rinse-off products

Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, Annex II/1381 - Atranol

• Chemical name/INN: 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzaldehyde (atranol)
• CAS number: 526-37-4
• EC number: —

From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing that substance, a natural component of oak moss Evernia Prunastri, shall not be placed on the Union market.
From 23 August 2021 cosmetic products containing that substance shall not be made available on the Union market.

Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, Annex II/1382 - Chloroatranol

• Chemical name/INN: 3-Chloro-2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzaldehyde (chloroatranol)
• CAS number: 57074-21-2
• EC number: —

From 23 August 2019 cosmetic products containing that substance, a natural component of oak moss Evernia Prunastri, shall not be placed on the Union market.
From 23 August 2021 cosmetic products containing that substance shall not be made available on the Union market.

IFRA Standard, 43rd amendment

Restrictions
Limits in the finished products:
• Category 1: 0.02%
• Category 2: 0.03%
• Category 3: 0.1%
• Category 4: 0.1%
• Category 5: 0.1%
• Category 6: 0.5%
• Category 7: 0.1%
• Category 8: 0.1%
• Category 9: 0.1%
• Category 10: 0.1%
• Category 10: No restriction

Specifications
Oak moss extracts used in fragrance compounds must not contain added tree moss, which is a source of resin acids.
Traces of resin acids may be carried over to commercial qualities of oak moss in the manufacturing process. These traces must not exceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) dehydroabietic acid (DHA) in the extract.
The concentration of resin acids in oak moss can be measured with an HPLC Reverse Phase –spectrofluorometry method.
Further, levels of atranol and chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in oak moss extracts.

IFRA Standard, 49th amendment

Applicable from 10 February 2021 for new fragrance creations, and from 10 February 2022 for existing creations.

Restrictions
Limits in the finished products:
• Category 1: 0.020%
• Category 2: 0.016%
• Category 3: 0.10%
• Category 4: 0.10%
• Category 5A: 0.076%
• Category 5B: 0.076%
• Category 5C: 0.076%
• Category 5D: 0.076%
• Category 6: 0.18%
• Category 7A: 0.10%
• Category 7B: 0.10%
• Category 8: 0.032%
• Category 9: 0.10%
• Category 10A: 0.10%
• Category 10B: 0.10%
• Category 11A: 0.10%
• Category 11B: 0.10%
• Category 12: No restriction

Note
For Oakmoss and Treemoss extracts, the restrictions in the Standards are directly linked to the presence of Atranol and Chloroatranol in the finished products. To ensure that those remain below trace levels, the upper concentration levels have not been increased (compared its last publication in the Amendment 43 (2008)).
In the presence of Treemoss extracts, the level of Oakmoss in the respective category has to be reduced accordingly, such that the total amount of both extracts does not exceed the maximum permitted level in each category as listed above. If the same fragrance mixture is intended to be used in more than one IFRA Category, then the most restrictive limitation (based on foreseen use concentrations and maximum permitted level) will apply.

Specifications
Oakmoss extracts must not contain added Treemoss, which is a source of resin acids.
Traces of resin acids may be carried over to commercial qualities of oak moss in the manufacturing process. These traces must not exceed 0.1% (1000 ppm) Dehydroabietic acid (DHA) in the extract.
The concentration of resin acids in Oakmoss can be measured with an High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) Reverse Phase – Spectrofluorometry method.
Further, levels of Atranol and Chloroatranol should each be below 100 ppm in Oakmoss extracts.

*See the cosmetic products included in the different categories in the IFRA sheet

Knowledge to date

This is not the real text :). Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Nunc vitae suscipit ipsum. Fusce ultrices congue erat vitae lobortis. Aenean augue urna, aliquet viverra quam id, elementum iaculis leo. Phasellus imperdiet neque nec magna condimentum hendrerit. Nam vel sagittis justo. Cras dignissim efficitur tortor et vestibulum. In ullamcorper sodales enim quis egestas. Cras varius, erat malesuada efficitur lobortis, tortor ante placerat urna, nec venenatis ipsum justo eget purus.

This content is only available for subscribers PRO

References

This is not the real text :). Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Nunc vitae suscipit ipsum. Fusce ultrices congue erat vitae lobortis. Aenean augue urna, aliquet viverra quam id, elementum iaculis leo. Phasellus imperdiet neque nec magna condimentum hendrerit. Nam vel sagittis justo. Cras dignissim efficitur tortor et vestibulum. In ullamcorper sodales enim quis egestas. Cras varius, erat malesuada efficitur lobortis, tortor ante placerat urna, nec venenatis ipsum justo eget purus.

This content is only available for subscribers PRO

© 2019-2020 CosmeticOBS

Products containing this ingredient