CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des cosmétiques

Press review

Our press review service automatically collects all current topics related to the cosmetics sector recently published on the Internet, all media combined.

03/12/2019 Lush Creates Packaging-Free Shops. But Will Other Retailers Follow Suit?

Lush, recently opened its first packaging-free store in the U.K., offering customers the chance to buy its hair care, bath bombs, shower gels and skin care in a shop completely stripped of plastic.

The Manchester “Naked” shop joins others in Berlin and Milan as Lush experiments with how its consumers can buy products without harming the environment along the way.

Already 100% vegetarian and against animal testing, these packaging-free stores are another way for the cosmetics chain to add to its ethical credentials.

But as plastic waste becomes an issue that consumers want to tackle, will other retailers take note and follow Lush’s example?

Plastic-free shops are few and far between. For a conscious consumer, their options are shopping online or finding an independent packaging-free shop in their area if they’re lucky.

But that doesn’t mean that the demand isn’t there. Nine out of ten people would like to see a plastic-free aisle in supermarkets, according to one survey, and millions of people participate in Plastic Free July every year.

“Lush is recognizing that there is a demand and they are the first mass market retailer to do that,” explained Emily Salter, associate analyst at GlobalData Retail.

Although, Salter admitted, the cosmetics retailer has an easier job getting its customers on board with the idea of plastic-free shops.

“Lush has always been known for its strong ethical stance,” Salter said. “It has a solid base to work from and eliminating plastic is something that quite a lot of its customers will be interested in anyway, because of the type of retailer they are.”

The challenge is for other mass-market retailers whose customers may not be as conscious of the plastic problem to get on board and change their ways.

How other retailers can be persuaded to go plastic-free

The way that retailers will become plastic-free is through pressure. And that pressure will come from both consumers and competitors, Salter said.

Consumers have the power to change a retailer’s approach to packaging if they can demonstrate to the store just how strongly they feel about the issue.

Reusable cups and bags, the huge audience and appetite for documentaries such as Blue Planet, and refusing plastic straws have all been successful ways of demonstrating that shoppers care about making a change.

Once one retailer reacts to consumer demand, it’s a matter of letting the pressure build on its competitors until the balance tips and they would be losing out on business if they didn’t join the rest of the market.

That’s the pattern that campaigners hope will play out for the reduction, and elimination, of plastic from the retail industry.

What other areas of retail should go packaging-free?

Lush’s Naked stores are a great example to other cosmetics businesses that packaging-free can be done in that product category.

But where else can be persuaded to reduce packaging? Food and groceries is another area of retail that desperately needs to cut down its reliance on plastic.

“In supermarkets and convenience shops, a lot of food is packaged with plastic. There’s almost nothing you can buy without it,” said Salter.

In the U.K., supermarkets are vowing to recycle plastic bottles and remove plastic bags, but there’s more work to be done to offer customers an alternative to plastic-wrapped products.

An experiment that should be closely followed by retailers is from Loop.

The online store is working with giants of the FMCG world, such as Unilever, Procter & Gamble and Nestlé to test out how staple products can be put into reusable, eco-friendly packaging which consumers can send back to be refilled as many times as they like.

How soon will retailers go plastic-free?

As more plastic-free packaging options become available, and consumer pressure grows, the fewer excuses that retailers have not to act.

And most retailers have already made conscious efforts to lessen their environmental impact over the past couple of years.

Though don’t expect big changes to be made any time soon. Lush’s packaging-free stores are a leading example of how to cut out plastic from high street stores, but the chain said it was part of a decades-long sustainability journey.

Anna Schaverien - Forbes
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03/11/2019 How Mentors, Teamwork and Lessons from Failure Led to Success for CEO of e.l.f. Cosmetics

Tarang Amin has taken brands from $50 million to $2billion. As Chairman and CEO of e.l.f. Cosmetics, and former President, CEO and Director of Schiff Nutrition, he has a phenomenal career that spans different companies. When he visited his alma mater, Duke University’s Fuqua School of Business, we sat down to discuss his formative years, important mentors, teambuilding strategies, and the role of failure plays in success.

Sanyin: Tell us about your journey before you became the CEO of e.l.f. Cosmetics.

Sanyin: Building diversity and inclusion is a strategic imperative for you at e.l.f. Cosmetics. Tell us how this factors into the success of the company.

Tarang: e.l.f. was founded 15 years ago as an e-commerce company selling cosmetics over the Internet for just $1. We’ve since migrated to other price points and other channels, but the core remains the same: We make prestige quality cosmetics and skin care at an extraordinary value. Our average prices are around $3.50, a fraction of most of the category.

But the most important thing we do is engage young diverse beauty enthusiasts. These are the women who are driving the entire category. So, we make sure that our company reflects the consumers we serve. I take great pride that our company is comprised of 85% women, 75% millennials, and over 60% are ethnically diverse. I believe that having a company full of the same beauty enthusiasts that we aim to serve gives us a huge advantage.

Sanyin: You’re known for co-creating products with your customers at e.l.f., in a sense. Can you talk about that?

Tarang: We have the #1 e-commerce site in mass color cosmetics and have received over 130,000 product reviews. For perspective that’s 20 times the next highest brand and shows that our consumers are incredibly engaged with the brand. We respond to every single review, because that’s how we get better. We take our enthusiasts feedback into account when we make new products and improve old ones – and especially like the negative reviews. There’s a strong sense that it’s not our brand. It’s the community’s brand, and they have the ability to shape and drive it.

Sanyin: Can you tell us a story that illustrates a defining moment in your life?

Tarang: In December of 1979, I was 14 years old. As I mentioned, I come from an immigrant family and, as many immigrants do, we rose as entrepreneurs. We sold our house, took every penny we had, and bought a small motel on Route 1 in Alexandria, Virginia. We moved into the manager’s apartment, and my dad and I ran the motel. It was stressful because at the time interest rates were above 18%. Every penny we had was in this property.

It was tough to make that adjustment. But I look back fondly at that memory for two reasons. First, every major door that’s ever been opened for me goes back to that initial motel experience. It made me appreciate my education at Duke so much more. I remember applying to business school when I was an undergrad. The dean at the time said, “You don’t have business experience.” But I was able to share my business experience that started at 14, and that’s what opened that door.

In my first year at Duke University’s Fuqua School of Business, my name showed up on an interview list for marketing internships at Procter and Gamble. I didn’t think I knew anything about marketing. Yet, when I started talking about what we did at our motel - - how we priced, how we differentiated each room, how we knew who our customers were – these were all rich marketing experiences. Years later, when I made the switch from large CPG companies to private equity backed mid-market growth companies, being able to go back and talk about those entrepreneurial roots at our motels helped get my first CEO position.

And second, it was such a rich learning experience because I learned how to operate a business at an early age. P&G was a great training ground, but everything that I know about cash flow, economic profit, and how you treat people came from those early days in our motels. I’ve been able to take many of those entrepreneurial skills to scale much larger businesses and have them operate more effectively because of that. So, while it seemed like a rough experience at the time, I cherish it to this day.

Sanyin: Did you expect your 14-year-old self, or even your 18-year-old self, to do what you’re doing today?

Tarang: No, I had no idea. When I came out of Duke undergrad, I thought I was going to go into international development. In fact, during business school, I concentrated more on finance, thinking I was going to go work at the World Bank. I didn’t even know what P&G was when I was put on the interview list I mentioned. But during that internship at P&G, I enjoyed my experience on a brand and decided to go back. Since then, for 25 years, I’ve worked on building brands in every major sector, and I absolutely love it.

Sanyin: In my experience as a CEO Coach, the best leaders are also good mentors. You yourself are well known for your mentorship of others. Who have been some of your mentors?

There was also A.G. Lafley, who was P&G’s CEO. I’ll never forget that he took time out of his busy schedule during a tumultuous time for P&G to walk stores together. We were able to share perspectives on different products and categories by seeing their placement and organization on shelves. I learned more in that one afternoon than I did through months of sales training most brand people went through.

Tarang: We look for people who fit well with our culture. We find that there are many qualified people with great credentials who are interested in joining our team. But we really look for people who have demonstrated an ability to move at a faster pace, where they can fit into our culture, and where they’re willing to change and grow with us. The glue that holds us together is our shared value system, which includes diversity.

Sanyin: Diversity is so important. How do you make sure everyone feels connected?

Tarang: We try to make sure everyone feels connected through a number of rituals. First and foremost, we have a high-performance team framework which focuses on building passionate relationships, promoting healthy conflict and mutual accountability. And we take it seriously. We make sure everyone understands this framework, gives candid feedback to their peers, and holds each other accountable.

Second, we get all of our employees together every couple of weeks in a town hall and we share stories about what worked and what didn’t work. This creates a common narrative, promotes transparency, and increases candor.

And third, we have an incentive system to promote teamwork. We focus on the individual development, but the goal is always to make sure the entire team is working well together.

Sanyin: I think we can learn from failures as well as successes. Can you tell us about a moment of failure and how you learned from it?

Tarang: When I was at P&G, I was running the Bounty paper towel business. I was brought in when the business was struggling. P&G was also going through a CEO transition – from Durk Jager to A.G. Lafley. BusinessWeek wanted to do a story on P&G, but P&G didn’t want to put Lafley up for an interview at that time. I had done some media before, so they asked me if I would do the interview.

The BusinessWeek P&G story was featured on the front cover when it was released. And the inside flap said, “If you want to know what’s wrong with P&G, look no further than the Bounty business.” Remember, that was the business I was running. I felt sick. I went to Lafley’s office and started apologizing: “I’m sorry it was such a bad interview. It was such a negative piece.” But he reassured me, “Don’t worry about it. Nobody reads BusinessWeek. Just stay focused. You have the right plan. Focus on that plan.”

In that moment, I felt a lot better, but then I got home, and my neighbor was by my fence and said, “That was a bad article.” And I thought, oh my God, people do read BusinessWeek.

Human instinct is to curl up and go quiet or fight and write BusinessWeek what was wrong about what they published. Then I took a step back and thought of my team. There were a few thousand people on the Bounty team at that time. I did not want them to get discouraged because I knew how hard everyone was working. So I wrote a letter to every single member of our team and explained both my disappointment and that some of the points in the article were right. We had let our prices get too high. We didn’t innovate fast enough. We forgot what the brand was about. It was a great opportunity for me to refocus our mission, strategy, and culture. I tried to use the article as a rallying cry for the organization. So instead of feeling sorry for ourselves, we redirected and reinforced our values and plan.

Tarang: Practice giving pinpointed, candid feedback with the intent of helping the team succeed. This is one of the core attributes of every high performance team I’ve had as it promotes building passionate relationships, healthy conflict resolution and mutual accountability. Yet, at 21 years, regularly giving such feedback took a back-seat to acquiring other skills.

Sanyin Siang - Forbes
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03/10/2019 Lip service: what Kylie Jenner really sells us is a brush with fame

Move over Zuckerberg. The success of the new youngest self-made billionaire is all about lifestyle aspiration in the Instagram age

In the spring of 2015, girls started sucking shot glasses. They would put their lips into the glass, and then they’d suck, creating a vacuum which drew blood to the surface of their lips to create a swollen, puckered pout, and then they’d post a selfie on Instagram, hashtagged #KylieJennerChallenge. Kylie Jenner had been 10 when she first appeared on Keeping Up with the Kardashians eight years earlier, alongside her siblings and parents, Kris and Bruce (now Caitlyn), and she grew up on screen. On “screens”, really: she built a following of millions on social media, where her selfies became a brand of their own.

The popularity of the hashtag caused ripples, and those ripples made waves. There was controversy surrounding the injuries sustained by the teenage participants, and discourse on the sexist and racist politics of lips - all the Kardashian-Jenner sisters have been accused of altering their bodies to look more like black women, in countries that objectify their features but ignore their achievements. There was debate, too, about whether the pout everyone was copying had actually been achieved with lip fillers rather than mere gloss. When she was 17, Jenner denied having had surgery. And, as pressure mounted, she spoke out against the challenge: “I’m not here to try and encourage people to look like me.” Finally, she admitted that, actually, yes, she had had her lips augmented.

But, rather than causing outrage, her admission was read as a kind of vulnerability, a door opening. That summer, she capitalised on the attention by launching Kylie Lip Kits, which sold out within minutes. Last year, Kylie Cosmetics made $360m (£275m). And last week, Jenner, now 21, knocked Mark Zuckerberg off the top of Forbes’ list to become the world’s youngest ever self-made billionaire.

The reaction to this has been noisy and layered, a multi-storey car park of opinion. “It’s not self-made, it’s because her sister made a sex tape,” claimed Piers Morgan. There was curiosity about how a teenager, even one from an entertainment dynasty such as the Kardashians, could make a billion dollars out of lip gloss.

What her sister did for bums, Jenner has done for lips. That is: focused attention on them, enabled them as fetish objects, promoted the idea that they can be reshaped seasonally. Reporting on the increase in buttock lifts last year, I heard Kim’s name in every room; similarly, Kylie has been named as the inspiration for a huge rise in women getting lip fillers. A day after she admitted her pout was the result of regular gel injections, one British clinic reported a 70% rise in inquiries. Lip augmentation was the most popular non-surgical cosmetic treatment of 2016 - Elle magazine suggested it had become as “routine as teeth whitening”. Jenner’s lip kits could be read as an entry-level drug - they are marketed as “your secret weapon to create the perfect Kylie Lip”. A lip best known for being … fake. And yet the success of Kylie Cosmetics pivots entirely on Jenner’s manipulation of social media.

“It’s the most authentic thing I’ve done in my career,” Jenner said of her cosmetics line, in an interview with her sister Kim Kardashian. “I was insecure about my lips, and lipstick is what helped me feel confident. And I feel like people could see that it’s authentic to me.”

She’s right, despite the fact that the authentic life she’s reflecting is a swimming-pooled, white-rugged, celebrity-partied, infinitely broadcast life cushioned by credit cards and the impossibility of failure. Her one-year-old daughter, Stormi, has a net worth of $8m, suggesting that Jenner has learnt from her own mother, who has been managing her children’s careers since they were born. In this family, the day you secure your first sponsorship deal is the day you become an adult. “I had such a strong reach before I was able to start anything,” Jenner told Forbes of her many millions of followers on Instagram and Snapchat. They would have bought whatever she was selling. Because, of course, what she is really selling is herself.

With every purchase of Coconut lip liner and Yesss Girl gloss, fans buy access to a covetable life, one filled not just with crystal-studded tchotchkes but an ever-moving soap opera of babies and breakups, and theses about body image. Their family is a machine that makes more machines - reports on Jenner’s billionaire status drive readers to her website, and there cosmetics (all production and sales are outsourced - she runs the company from her phone) continue to sell out. She was born into a brand, and, using its built-in influencers, has franchised it to glittering success.

The key to Jenner, and the modern business model, is that word “authenticity”, a word that shifts in meaning according to whose shadow it stands in. For her, it means that, even though her sponsored Instagram posts are valued at $1m each, they read less like ads and more like the check-ins of a girl who would be sharing these selfies even if she were not promoting “all-new” setting powders. For her, it may not mean relatability: in that same interview with her sister, Kardashian asked what her last text message had said. It was a message to her security guard to buy her apples. One day she will post a swimsuit picture; the next, she’ll talk about her shyness about her body - the push-pull of exposure and its effect, and the commodification of such anxieties, have been part of her life since she was born. This is authenticity, albeit of the 1%.

The machine keeps whirring; her wild success inspires debate. Last year she stopped getting lip fillers. “Now that she’s made her fortune?” tweeted activist Brittany Packnett. “Those lip fillers came out. The fake tan disappeared … She’ll exploit black culture and black people for as long as it’s profitable, and then return to the comfort of whiteness.”

Both Jenner and the world’s richest woman, 65-year-old L’Oréal heir Françoise Bettencourt Meyers, are in the cosmetics industry. Which, for some, undermines any potential message of feminist empowerment. But it is possible to enjoy the expressive potential of makeup and also to wonder if both fortunes rely on female panic, a pursuit of uncatchable perfection. Both also profit from what’s described as the “lipstick index”, the observation that lipstick sales tend to be inversely correlated to economic health.

Jenner’s business thrives in bad times and benefits from controversy. So, if the critics continue poking, we can expect her billions to double by Christmas.

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03/06/2019 F.D.A. Confirms Asbestos in Claire's Products and Calls for Stronger Regulation

The Food and Drug Administration warned on Tuesday that it had found asbestos in cosmetics sold by Claire’s, a retailer that markets jewelry and makeup to teenagers, and urged consumers not to use the products.

Consumer claims of asbestos, a known carcinogen, in some Claire’s cosmetics were reported in 2017. The company withdrew products from store shelves but did not recall them.

The F.D.A., which received its test results in February, said Claire’s refused to recall the products. The agency issued a safety alert urging consumers not to use certain eye shadows, compact powders and contour palettes.

Claire’s did not immediately respond to a request for comment, though it said in a statement in 2017 that initial test results showed its cosmetics to be free of asbestos. The retailer filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection last March and emerged in October after shedding $1.9 billion of debt.

On Tuesday, the F.D.A.’s departing commissioner, Scott Gottlieb, criticized the “outdated” way the agency regulated cosmetics safety. The regulator is hemmed in by “limitations on our cosmetic oversight authority,” Dr. Gottlieb said in a joint statement with Susan Mayne, the director of the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition.

The agency is not, for example, allowed to force Claire’s to recall the contaminated products.

The legislation that determines the extent of the F.D.A.’s authority, the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act, has not been updated since it was enacted in 1938, Dr. Gottlieb said. The agency relies on the cosmetics industry to police itself.

The F.D.A. called on the industry to be more forthcoming about its safety procedures, especially in relation to how it sources and tests talc. The agency said it had used the most sensitive methods available to test 34 cosmetic products from four talc suppliers in 2010 and found no traces of asbestos.

Asbestos can contaminate talc because the minerals are often intermingled in mines. It is “one of the deadliest substances in existence,” Scott Faber, the senior vice president for government affairs for the Environmental Working Group advocacy group, said in a statement.

The New York Times and Reuters reported late last year that Johnson & Johnson had known for decades about the risk of asbestos contamination in its popular baby powder and other talc-based body powders, but tried to keep negative information from reaching the public. The company received subpoenas for more information last month from the Securities and Exchange Commission and the Justice Department.

Last month, Senators Lamar Alexander, Republican of Tennessee, and Patty Murray, Democrat of Washington, said they hoped to overhaul cosmetics legislation this year.

“To modernize our overall approach, we need to expand the scope of what we’re able to do commensurate with the scope of the cosmetics industry, and we’re going to seek a broader dialogue on how we can make the overall system more robust,” Dr. Gottlieb and Dr. Mayne said in their statement.

Tiffany Hsu - The New York Times
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03/05/2019 6 Stylish Designer Makeup Bags for Your Next Trip

Investing in a designer cosmetics case can make a world of difference when traveling. Not just because they are specifically designed to hold your bottles, tubes, compacts, and even awkward-sized brushes, but they can also add a touch of glamour to your travel routine. Up ahead, we share six designer cosmetics bags that travel as well as they look.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake Prism Cosmetics Case

Store your lipsticks in style with the Bao Bao Issey Miyake Prism Cosmetics Case. Chic enough to use as a makeshift clutch in the evenings, but spacious enough for all of your makeup must-haves, the flexible mesh pouch boasts serious style and functionality.

Bao Bao Issey Miyake Prism Cosmetics Case on sale for $195

We love this Miu Miu Leather Cosmetics Case for its organization and ability to go from suitcase to crossbody bag in no time. With enough room for your lipsticks, eyeshadows, and other beauty essentials, you can transport your products safely.

Saint Laurent Loulou Matelassé Leather Cosmetics Bag

Looking for a gorgeous makeup pouch that will hold everything you need on vacation? Look no further. The Loulou Matelassé Leather Cosmetics Bag from Saint Laurent boasts enough space for your brushes and compacts.

Saint Laurent Loulou Matelassé Leather Cosmetics Bag on sale for $425

Small but mighty, the Gucci Small Ophidia Canvas Cosmetics Pouch is perfect for everyday use, as it’s small enough to keep in your handbag or work tote, or travel for transporting your essentials on vacation. You can even use it to store small electronics like chargers and headphones in your carry-on.

Gucci Small Ophidia Canvas Cosmetics Pouch on sale for $390

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MCM Vintage Rockstar Visetos Coated Canvas Vanity Case

Storing your makeup in a travel-friendly vanity case can ensure that your compacts and other beauty breakables remain intact whether you check your luggage or carry-on a bag. This mini square vanity case from MCM can protect your makeup and also comes with a strap, so you can take the crossbody from suitcase to dinner.

MCM Vintage Rockstar Visetos Coated Canvas Vanity Case on sale for $550

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Kate Spade New York Morley Medium Cosmetic Pouch

No matter how long you’re OOO for, makeup pouches are a must for keeping everything organized. Use this Morley Medium Cosmetic Pouch from Kate Spade New York for makeup, skincare, or other toiletries, or toss it in your work bag for a mid-day touch-up.

Forbes Finds - Forbes
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03/05/2019 Bénédicte, l'essentiel pour la peau selon les saisons

Lotion tonique, sérum, gel nettoyant, contour des yeux, réduction des pores: l’attirail de soins pour le visage est très diversifié et les marques proposent des produits de plus en plus spécifiques en misant, à chaque lancement, sur un nouveau produit phare. Après la mode du layering, application de soins en plusieurs couches inspirée notamment par la mode des rituels de beauté coréens ou japonais, la tendance cosmétique se tourne actuellement vers des produits naturels et multifonctionnels.

En plein dans cette mouvance, la nouvelle marque romande Bénédicte a été lancée en 2018 par Bénédicte Siriex, biochimiste de formation avec une solide expérience au sein d’un grand groupe pharmaceutique. “J’ai cherché des produits pour soigner ma peau et me suis rendu compte qu’on peut se perdre parmi la multitude de l’offre. En essayant de trouver une crème qui honore ses promesses, j’ai eu un déclic en pensant à des produits élaborés selon les saisons. Nous ne nous habillons ni ne mangeons de la même manière selon les époques de l’année. Physiologiquement l’état de la peau varie aussi selon les attaques qu’elle subit: froid, chaud, air sec, vent, soleil.”

Lire également: Face aux exigences des consommateurs, les marques de cosmétiques naturelles explosent

Après avoir fait des recherches et validé ce postulat de base, la Nyonnaise écrit toutes les formules de ses cosmétiques et entame les procédures afin de développer et fabriquer en condition industrielle, à Fribourg. La marque Bénédicte entend satisfaire les besoins de l’épiderme avec une gamme simple et courte: une mousse nettoyante et un gommage doux pour toute l’année, ainsi qu’une crème de soin du visage et un masque élaborés selon des saisons. Le vocabulaire utilisé ne fait pas appel à la renaissance, au merveilleux et à la métamorphose, mais simplement à une peau “belle, saine et équilibrée”.

Certifiées naturelles à 90%, les formules contiennent des hydrolats et des huiles végétales. Leur conservation est aussi garantie comme bio et donc dépourvue de parabènes, phénoxyéthanol ou autres conservateurs toxiques, encore présents dans la cosmétique conventionnelle. “Je défends des produits qualitatifs qui contiennent des actifs choisis en bonne quantité, ce qu’on appelle dans le jargon pharmaceutique des pourcentages objectivés, car chaque actif fonctionne à partir d’une concentration précise. L’avantage de résumer notre routine beauté à l’essentiel est qu’on obtient plus de résultats dans la régularité plutôt que mélanger ou enchaîner plusieurs produits.”

Francesca Serra - Le Temps
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03/05/2019 Kylie Jenner's makeup makes her the world's youngest billionaire

Kylie Jenner, the youngest member of the Kardashian-Jenner American reality TV family, has become the youngest ever billionaire at the age of just 21.

Jenner, who grew up under the watch of TV cameras filming Keeping Up with the Kardashians, was on Tuesday admitted to the “nine-zero” fortune club by Forbes. The business magazine ranked Jenner as the world’s 2,057th richest person, and crowned her the “youngest ever billionaire in the world”. She becomes a billionaire two years younger than Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg who took the title at the age of 23.

“I didn’t expect anything. I did not foresee the future,” Jenner said in an interview with Forbes to celebrate her good fortune. “But [the recognition] feels really good. That’s a nice pat on the back.”

Jenner’s fortune comes from Kylie Cosmetics, the makeup company she runs largely from her black iPhone X, with the help of her mother Kris. Forbes estimated that the cosmetics company, which is 100%-owned by Jenner, made $360m (£274m) in sales last year.

Forbes’s estimate of Jenner’s wealth comes in its annual ranking of the world’s billionaires. Its research found that the total number of billionaires had declined over the past year from 2,208 to 2,153. The world’s richest person remains Amazon founder and chief executive Jeff Bezos with a $131bn fortune, up $19bn on 2018.

Nearly all of Kylie Cosmetic’s sales come directly from Jenner’s social media accounts. She has 128 million followers on Instagram (three-quarters of whom are estimated to be aged 18-24). She has one of the most viewed accounts on Snapchat, and is followed by 26.7 million on Twitter. Such is the weight of her influence that when she tweeted that she was “sooo over” Snapchat last year, more than $1bn was wiped off the company’s stock market value.

Sales are driven higher by Jenner sparking fomo (fear of missing out) among her fans with warnings that collections are in very limited quantities. Her initial stock of $29 “lip kits” - matching lipstick and lip liner - sold out in less than a minute, crashing the website.

Jenner, who has been in the public eye since she made her debut on Keeping Up With The Kardashians a decade ago when she was 10, said: “Social media is an amazing platform. I have such easy access to my fans and my customers.”

The business, which Jenner founded in 2015, employs just seven full-time staff. It is almost totally outsourced. Jenner comes up with ideas for styles, but the products are made by Seed Beauty, a private-label producer which also produces makeup for KKW Beauty, run by Jenner’s half-sister Kim Kardashian West. More than 500 people at Seed Beauty, which owns makeup production company Spatz Laboratories, work on the Jenner-Kardashian brands.

Jenner does not directly sell her products either. Kylie Cosmetics’ orders and sales are outsourced to Shopify, a Canadian online company that also runs shops for Drake and Justin Bieber. Shopify promotes its success with Jenner to encourage other entrepreneurs to skip the boring things like fulfilling orders and logistics by using their services.

“The reigning Queen of Snapchat. Reality TV darling. Makeup mogul. She’s more than just a famous face - the youngest of the Kardashian clan, Kylie Jenner, has hustled beyond her 19 years, monetising her name and exploding it into a massive cosmetics brand,” Shopify says on its site. “Kylie Cosmetics entered the IRL (in real life) space for the first time ever, driving lip envy to a fever pitch.”

Jenner also does not have to worry much about the business’s finances or the day-to-day management of her 12 staff (seven full-time, five part-time). Those matters are outsourced to her mom or “momager” Kris Jenner, who manages all her children’s financial operations - in return for a 10% cut.

Jenner, who used her reality TV exposure to secure modelling work with brands like Topshop, said she had struggled to decide what to do with her life. Then her thoughts turned to her most talked about feature: her lips.

Jenner trademarked the phrase “Kylie Lip Kits … for the perfect pout” two years before setting up her company with $250,000 of money she had made through modelling and reality TV work.

The total combined wealth of the world’s billionaires is $8.7 trillion - more than three times the gross domestic product (GDP) of the UK - down from $9.1tn last year.

Forbes calculated that Bezos’s fortune, which is mostly held in Amazon shares, increased by $19bn over the past year due mostly to the increase in the online giant’s share price. Bill Gates, co-founder of Microsoft took second-place, with a $96.5bn fortune, up from $90bn last year. Warren Buffett is the third-richest with $82.5bn, followed by France’s richest man Bernard Arnault, who has an estimated $76bn fortune.

Donald Trump’s ‘net worth’ is unchanged at $3.1bn, but the US President rises from the 766th- to the 715th richest person on earth as other billionaires have seen their fortunes fall.

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03/05/2019 Zalando se lance sur le marché de la beauté en France

Zalando élargit son horizon. La première plate-forme de vente de mode en ligne d’Europe, fondée à Berlin en 2008, a annoncé, mardi 5 mars, son intention de se lancer dans la vente de produits cosmétiques dans cinq nouveaux marchés européens dont la France, la Suède, le Danemark, la Belgique et l’Italie. L’offre, déjà disponible depuis le printemps 2018 en Allemagne, Autriche et en Pologne, s’inscrit dans la stratégie de croissance effrénée du groupe allemand, dont le plus grand concurrent est le géant américain Amazon.

Zalando proposera sur son site français, à partir de la mi-mars, 200 marques de cosmétiques - dont des produits haut de gamme comme Estée Lauder, Mac, Clinique - qui bénéficieront des conditions de vente qui ont fait le succès du site : livraison gratuite un jour après la commande en point retrait (trois à cinq jours à domicile), un service de retour gratuit et surtout un assortiment gigantesque. Actuellement, 300 000 produits et 2 000 marques sont proposés en Europe, sur 27 marchés nationaux. L’entreprise allemande, qui ne communique pas ses chiffres par pays, est le troisième acteur de la mode en ligne en France, derrière Amazon et Vente-Privée, selon les données de Kantar Worldpanel.

" La France est un marché majeur pour nous. Le marché de la mode est un des plus importants d’Europe - autour de 40 milliards d’euros -, mais la part des ventes réalisée sur Internet est assez faible, par rapport à d’autres pays, à environ 15 %. C’est moins qu’en Allemagne ou au Royaume-Uni, où elle s’élève à 20 %. Il y a donc une importante opportunité de progression pour Zalando ", explique Yannick Mathan, responsable de la stratégie de Zalando France, à Berlin.

En se lançant dans des produits hors habillement, l’objectif de Zalando est aussi d’améliorer sa rentabilité et d’occuper le terrain dans un marché de la vente en ligne en plein essor. Car sur Internet vaut l’adage " the winner takes it all " (le gagnant emporte la mise). Pour s’imposer comme acteur de référence, il faut afficher le plus grand nombre de clients, le meilleur service de livraison, le plus grand assortiment, capter la plus grosse masse de données possible. Et surtout, faire passer la croissance avant la rentabilité. C’est bien la stratégie poursuivie par Zalando, qui vise 10 milliards d’euros de chiffre d’affaires en 2020, contre 5,3 milliards aujourd’hui, et 20 milliards en 2023-2024,

Pour générer de tels volumes, le groupe ne s’appuie plus depuis longtemps sur ses forces seules et s’est développé en tant que plate-forme : Zalando met à disposition des marques, par le biais de sa " place de marché “, sa force de frappe logistique, sa notoriété et sa connaissance du comportement d’achat de millions de clients. Les données collectées lui permettent de développer des technologies de conseil personnalisé en style et en taille, grâce à l’utilisation de l’intelligence artificielle. Les retours, encouragés par le groupe lui-même, afin que” l’expérience d’achat " soit la plus proche possible de celle vécue en boutique, représentent autour de 50 % des commandes, près d’un article sur deux étant renvoyé, selon les pays.

Mais cette stratégie est très coûteuse, donc risquée. A l’été 2018, l’action Zalando a ainsi décroché en Bourse après plusieurs avertissements sur les résultats. La croissance exceptionnellement faible au troisième trimestre, assortie d’une perte, a prolongé la baisse du titre, qui a perdu la moitié de sa valeur entre août et décembre 2018.

le 27 février, lors de la présentation des résultats, le codirecteur de Zalando, Rubin Ritter, a reconnu que " 2018 (avait) eu ses défis ". En 2018, le groupe a vu son chiffre d’affaires progresser de 20 %, contre 23,4 % l’année précédente. Une évolution dangereuse si elle se maintenait : une croissance trop faible et trop peu rentable fait fuir les investisseurs. Le groupe tente depuis l’été de limiter les coûts des retours, afin de gagner en rentabilité.

Mais cette croissance à tout prix est-elle compatible avec la conscience écologique accrue des consommateurs, en particulier les jeunes ? La mode est considérée comme une des activités les plus polluantes de la planète, à cause de la fabrication mais aussi de leur mise en vente. Le phénomène de " fast fashion “, qui veut que les vêtements soient peu ou pas portés, est montré du doigt par les associations écologistes.” Nous prenons cela très au sérieux, " assure M. Mathan, qui insiste sur les efforts pour réduire le nombre de paquets, leur volume et le nombre de trajets. Une initiative a également été lancée, Zalando Wardrobe (garde-robe) : elle propose aux consommateurs de revendre leurs articles déjà portés à d’autres utilisateurs ou à Zalando par le biais de la plate-forme. Cette fonction n’est pour l’instant pas disponible pour les consommateurs français.

Cécile Boutelet - Le
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03/05/2019 At 21, Kylie Jenner Becomes The Youngest Self-Made Billionaire Ever

n mid-November, Kylie Jenner marked a milestone moment with a visit to a strip mall. For the past three years, her Kylie Cosmetics had only sold its makeup online and briefly in pop up shops. But after signing an exclusive distribution deal with Ulta, the beauty retailer, Kylie Cosmetics was rolling its $29 lip kits – a matte liquid lipstick and matching lip liner – into Ulta’s 1,000-plus stores. And Jenner showed up to the Richmond Avenue Ulta in Houston to greet customers, sign autographs on lip kits and, of course, pose for selfies with her fans.

Over the next six weeks, Kylie Cosmetics sold $54.5 million worth of products in Ulta, according to estimates from Oppenheimer. “I popped up at a few stores, I did my usual social media – I did what I usually do, and it just worked,” she says.

Fueled in part by the Ulta expansion, Kylie Cosmetics’ revenue climbed 9% last year to an estimated $360 million. With that kind of growth, and even using a conservative multiple from the booming makeup industry, Forbes estimates Jenner’s company is worth at least $900 million. She owns all of it. Add in the cash Jenner has already pulled from the profitable business, and the 21-year-old is now a billionaire, with an estimated fortune of $1 billion. She’s the youngest-ever self-made billionaire, reaching a ten-figure fortune at a younger age than even Mark Zuckerberg (who was 23 when he hit that mark).

[Read More: Why Kylie Jenner Is Indeed A ‘Self-Made’ Billionaire]

“I didn’t expect anything. I did not foresee the future,” says Jenner, who is the youngest billionaire in the world. “But [the recognition] feels really good. That’s a nice pat on the back.”

The beauty of Kylie Cosmetics, which Jenner started in 2015, is its minuscule overhead – and the outsize profits that go straight into Jenner’s pocket. Her empire consists of just seven full-time and five part-time employees. Manufacturing and packaging is outsourced to Seed Beauty, a private-label producer in nearby Oxnard, California. Sales and fulfillment are handled by online merchant Shopify. Her shrewd mother, Kris, takes care of finance and PR in exchange for the 10% management fee she siphons from all of her kids. Marketing is done mostly through social media, where Jenner has a massive following. She announces product launches, previews new items and announces the Kylie Cosmetics shades she’s wearing directly to the 175 million-plus who follow her across Snapchat, Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.

“It’s the power of social media,” Jenner says. “I had such a strong reach before I was able to start anything.”

When Kylie Cosmetics launched in Ulta in 50 states, the reaction was a real-life version of the online rush Jenner created years earlier, when her initial kits sold out online in less than a minute. Ulta shoppers went wild. In some stores inventory was gone in hours. “It sold out faster than we planned,” admits Tara Simon, Ulta’s senior vice president of merchandising.

Ulta and Jenner are a sensible pairing. With Ulta’s mix of pricier prestige brands, like MAC Cosmetics, and cheaper selections, such as Nyx Professional Makeup, it has a larger footprint than that of its closest competitor, the more expensive Sephora. Analysts say Kylie Cosmetics is drawing younger customers through Ulta’s doors – teens who might not have a credit card to shop online. Plus, selling in physical stores gives Jenner a chance to reach “people that would never buy my products online,” she says. The ones who want to “see, touch and feel before they buy.”

Ulta provides access to a wide swath of America – more than just kids on the coasts – with stores across middle America. (It also has 714 more standalone stores than Sephora.) Ulta, meanwhile, gets a brand that requires no marketing push. So far, the retailer hasn’t spent a dime on traditional marketing to launch the brand in stores, which is “unheard of,” Simon says: “[Jenner’s] ability to communicate with well over 120 million people in a snap has a lot of power.”

“She did well online, but there’s only so far that that can take her,” says Shannon Coyne, an equity research analyst at BMO Capital Markets. “She probably realized: ‘If I want to get big, I’ve got to scale, and to do that, I need a partner.’ Ultimately, she wants to grow her brand, and she needs this store presence to do that.”

Indeed, Kylie Cosmetics has seen its growth slow rapidly lately. It went from essentially zero to $307 million in sales within a year of launching but managed only single-digit growth in 2017 and 2018, Forbes estimates. That’s despite adding 30 new products in 2017, including concealer and makeup brushes, and many more color combinations in 2018.

It’s not the first time Ulta’s breadth has helped propel a makeup entrepreneur. IT Cosmetics, cofounded in 2010 by Jamie Kern Lima, entered Ulta in 2012 and promptly grew to sales of $117 million by 2014. In August 2016, L’Oréal paid $1.2 billion in cash for it.

Would Jenner ever follow a similar route? She firmly dismisses the idea of a sale. But her mother is interested. “It’s always something that we’re willing to explore,” Kris told Forbes last year.

For now, Jenner is focused on expanding her product range to include a setting powder, and bringing eyeshadows, powders and bronzers to Ulta. “I see [Kylie Cosmetics] going very far,” Jenner says. “I work really hard.”

Whatever happens next, one thing is certain. Jenner will share it all on social media, much to the delight of her tens of millions of fans.

She is, after all, the first selfie-made billionaire.

Natalie Robehmed - Forbes
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03/05/2019 L'avenir de Zalando passe par les cosmétiques

Avec les produits de beauté, le géant allemand de la mode en ligne trouve le relais nécessaire à sa croissance.

Ses dirigeants rêvent que Zalando soit le “Netflix de la mode”. Que l’entreprise devienne un point d’entrée incontournable sur Internet pour la mode et le “lifestyle”, à l’instar de l’entreprise américaine pour les séries et les films. En 2018, le chiffre d’affaires du leader européen du prêt-à-porter a augmenté son chiffre d’affaires de 20 %, à 5,4 milliards d’euros. Pour garder le rythme sur un marché du textile malgré tout en recul, l’entreprise allemande a décidé de se lancer dans les cosmétiques. Testée d’abord en Allemagne, en Autriche et en Pologne, cette offre beauté a été étendue en Suède et au Danemark. À la mi-mars, 6500 produits de 200 marques feront leur apparition sur, puis en Belgique et en Italie.

" LIRE AUSSI - Zalando va se lancer dans la vente de cosmétiques

En France, selon la société d’études Kantar, Zalando fin février se plaçait à la troisième place du podium des sites Internet de mode derrière Venteprivée et Amazon. L’Hexagone est l’un des moteurs de …

Anne-Sophie Cathala - Le
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