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L'agrégateur de news est un service qui réunit de façon automatique tous les sujets d'actualité en rapport avec le secteur cosmétique publiés dernièrement sur Internet, tous médias confondus.


20 mars 2019 Novel mobility aid masterbatch improves PET bottle production efficiency

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Sukano has announced the launch of a new mobility aid additive masterbatch for Injection Stretch Blow Molded (ISBM) PET bottles. This new additive masterbatch allows bottle makers and brand owners to run their conveyor-belt systems and production robots without the need for a spray coating.

Bottles must rotate freely as they pass through the production conveyor, as forced rotation caused by friction can lead to a blockage on the line. The new SUKANO® Mobility Aid solution, believed to be the first commercially available for this application, is provided as a solid PET masterbatch that is blended with virgin PET or RPET material during molding or processing. Even at low concentrations, the masterbatch disperses consistently through the PET material, reducing its coefficient of friction (COF), and modifying the surface texture with a microstructure.

Benefits of a masterbatch mobility aid over spray coatings

This new masterbatch produces a silicone-like mobility aid effect in PET material, yet has been engineered to preserve material clarity with minimal impact on haze. It is well suited to clear, translucent, and colored bottles produced for personal care, household and cleaning, cosmetics, as well as food and beverage applications. It is also widely applicable, as PET material containing the new masterbatch can be run on existing ISBM bottle production equipment without modification.

Sukano is currently assisting a customer in the U.S. optimize its production process. “Our customer, a key and leading global player in the consumer goods industry, reported that PET bottle mispicks by their production robot decreased sixfold when using our SUKANO® Mobility Aid masterbatch,” stated John Price, director of technology and operations in the U.S.

The consistency and even distribution of the masterbatch lead to improved performance. The additive masterbatch preserves secondary processing steps that require adhesion, like labelling and printing. It also helps eliminate the cost and cleaning requirements associated with spray coatings, which leave a waxy residue on bottles and packaging equipment that must be removed through regular cleaning. Additionally, the SUKANO® Mobility Aid masterbatch avoids the potential risk of microbiological contaminations of bottle surfaces by aqueous-based coatings, which may require additional additives or application in a clean-room environment.

Expertise drives innovation

Significant effort was needed to engineer a product that combined the necessary properties with good thermal stability and performance-enhancing benefits to preserve material clarity and transparency. To develop the new PET additive masterbatch, Sukano leveraged its over 30 years of experience with masterbatches for film extrusion in packaging applications into the bottle packaging PET application and broadened its expertise in this field.“SUKANO® Mobility Aid offers a valuable and safe alternative for bottle makers who, until now, have had to apply spray coatings to PET preforms and bottles to manage the production problems associated with ISBM production,” said Michael Kirch, global head of R&D.

“Bottle makers and brand owners can now run their conveyor belts without interruption and minimize the mispicks by production robots, thereby improving productivity and maximizing yields, allowing the highest efficiency rates. Our high-performance masterbatch technology is applicable to any conveyor system,” Kirch added.

Circularity as a decisive design criterion to Sukano’s products placed in the market

PET recyclability is essential in an increasingly environmentally conscious world – and Sukano’s innovative mobility aid is formulated according to the European PET Bottle Platform (EPBP) guidelines. These enable the industry to innovate and bring new PET bottle packaging solutions to the market without disrupting the existing clear PET recycling value chain, with special focus on bottle-to-bottle recycling.

The company is keen to point out that it is firmly committed to achieving the concept of a “circular economy,” and as such is an active member of the Association of Plastic Recyclers (APR) and Petcore Europe, which recently joined forces with Plastics Recyclers Europe (PRE) to create the Global Plastics Outreach Alliance and publish a globally harmonized definition of plastics recyclability. The new mobility aid supports the PET value chain to keep and further enhance its circularity goals to meet the voluntary pledge of exceeding the Plastics Strategy targets for recycled PET rates by 2025.

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20 mars 2019 Cette nuit en Asie : le marché du luxe en Chine résiste à la crise

Les ventes ont progressé de 20 % en 2018, pour la deuxième année consécutive, selon Bain & Company.

Les difficultés de certaines marques de luxe en Chine sont davantage le reflet de mauvais choix stratégiques et d’une concurrence accrue que d’un ralentissement du marché. Tordant le cou aux inquiétudes des investisseurs ces derniers mois, " le marché chinois des produits de luxe est en plein essor “, indique sans détour une étude publiée par le cabinet Bain & Company.

Les ventes ont progressé de 20 % en 2018, soit exactement le même rythme de croissance que l’année précédente. Faisant fi du ralentissement de l’économie chinoise , les ventes atteignaient les 170 milliards de yuans (22 milliards de yuans) à la fin de l’année dernière, confirmant le rôle moteur de la Chine pour le secteur du luxe.

Rapatriement des dépenses en Chine

Bain & Company identifie quatre facteurs essentiels à la croissance du marché chinois. " La réduction des droits d’importation et les contrôles plus stricts exercés sur les marchés gris, combinés aux efforts des marques pour réduire l’écart de prix par rapport aux marchés étrangers, ont amené davantage de consommateurs chinois à faire leurs achats de luxe en Chine, au lieu de se déplacer à Hong Kong, Séoul, Tokyo et dans les villes d’Europe “, explique tout d’abord le cabinet d’études.

Les consommateurs chinois ont effectué 27 % de leurs achats de produits de luxe en Chine en 2018, contre 23 % en 2015. Evolution majeure à prendre en compte pour les marques de luxe, " cette part passera à 50 % d’ici 2025 “, indique encore Bain & Company. Le rapatriement des dépenses ne fait donc que commencer.

Engouement des Millenials

Autre explication, la demande des Millennials. Les consommateurs âgés de 23 à 38 ans sont disposés à dépenser pour des marques de luxe et sont financièrement capables de le faire.

" En outre, ces jeunes consommateurs sont bien informés sur le luxe et désireux d’adhérer à des tendances innovantes, telles que la convergence de la mode et du sport “, sur laquelle surfent des marques comme Louis Vuitton ( groupe LVMH , propriétaire du Groupe Les Echos Le Parisien) et Supreme. Les jeunes Chinoises sont plus sensibles au luxe que la gent masculine :” Les cosmétiques, une catégorie traditionnellement féminine, ont augmenté de plus de 25 % en 2018, par exemple, tandis que les montres, une catégorie à prédominance masculine, ont progressé de moins de 10 % “, relève l’étude.

Bond des ventes en ligne

Le troisième moteur de croissance est lié au numérique : les ventes de produits de luxe en ligne ont augmenté de 27 % en 2018 pour atteindre 10 % des ventes totales, bénéficiant notamment aux produits cosmétiques.

Enfin, les ventes demeurent soutenues par l’expansion rapide de la classe moyenne, censée constituer deux tiers des ménages chinois d’ici 2027. Autant de nouveaux acheteurs de produits de luxe en perspective.

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20 mars 2019 Time to Clean Your Wristwatch

For nearly 20 years, Troy Surratt, a makeup artist and the founder of the cosmetics brand Surratt Beauty, has worn a designer watch virtually every day. Every couple of weeks, he takes off the one he has had on his wrist – chosen from a rotation that includes 10 Hermès watches in styles like the Harnais and Arceau – and cleans it using a method he developed that was inspired, at least in part, by the way he shines picture frames in his home in Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood.

“I will use alcohol on either a Q-tip or a piece of cotton,” he said. “Sometimes, I’ll use a microfiber cloth and a little bit of alcohol, careful not to touch the strap because it can take the gloss or finish off of the strap. I really just sort of wipe down the face or the crystal.”

“I don’t know what a watchmaker would say about doing that,” he added, “but it’s always worked for me.”

The technique makes Mr. Surratt’s watches sparkle – and hasn’t damaged them – but it does indeed go against what watch care experts suggest. “Depending on what type of material the watch is made of, the recommendation is that you wouldn’t clean any watches, bracelets or cases with anything that has any chemical base in it at all,” said Ian Haycock, head of technical services for the retailer Watches of Switzerland.

Although cleaning and maintenance isn’t the most glamorous part of wearing a watch, it does keep timepieces looking their best as well as running efficiently. Mr. Haycock suggested cleaning watches with a soft cloth once a week.

On some parts, like metal bracelets, a damp cloth may be used; care instructions for such parts issued by several brands, including TAG Heuer, suggest using a bit of soapy water and a soft brush periodically to take off grime. Leather straps require a dry cloth, Mr. Haycock said.

It’s wise, experts say, to be cautious about cleaning watch cases. A slightly damp cloth is fine to use on many watches, particularly waterproof ones with intact seals, but exposure to excessive moisture can cause damage. The steam from a sauna, or even a home bathroom after a shower, also can be an issue.

Modern watches typically have a degree of water resistance but it’s frequently only about 30 meters (98 feet); so, taking water pressure into account, that rules out wearing most timepieces in the bathtub or shower. “The best way to describe a 30-meter water-resistant watch would be ‘splash resistant’, so I certainly wouldn’t recommend wearing it in the shower,” Mr. Haycock said. He suggested that, to wear a timepiece in the shower, it should have a minimum of 50-meter water resistance, and, to wear one while swimming, 100 meters.

For watches that can go underwater, salt water and chlorine can be corrosive, so a rinse in clean water after a swim is also advised by many brands.

Other sports could also create problems: Cartier’s watch care instructions advise against sports like golf or tennis – presumably in part because of sweating, although it doesn’t specify, as well as exposure to extreme temperatures.

At-home ultrasonic cleaners – the machines that clean dirt from items like jewelry with water or a liquid solvent and ultrasonic waves – typically aren’t suitable for most timepieces. (Some cleaners can work for truly waterproof watches, or for metal bracelets that have been detached from a timepiece; it’s key to follow each machine manufacturer’s directions.) Ultrasonic cleaners cannot be used to clean smartwatches; care directions for the Apple Watch, for example, recommend avoiding such machines, as well as soap, cleaning products or anything abrasive, but say the model can be cleaned with a damp cloth or even a small splash of water.

Specialists say that keeping a watch away from anything that could leech through its case is advisable as well, especially if it’s vintage. “You don’t want to expose it to perfumes, or hand creams, or any greasy substance that may intrude onto the dial and soil it – by that, I mean leave a stain,” said Edward Faber, the co-founder and chief executive of the Aaron Faber Gallery, a boutique in midtown Manhattan that cleans and repairs watches, and sells mostly vintage ones. “Many of these watches, especially the earlier ones before 1980, are not completely hermetic, so that oil or cream could seep into it.”

Storage

When they are not being worn, watches should be stored much like fine jewelry: away from anything that could scratch them and, ideally, in a case with a soft interior surface.

Mr. Surratt keeps his collection in a Hermès woven-leather-covered watch box, which has interior compartments lined in supple suede (it was a gift). Wolf, a company that has specialized in jewelry and watch boxes since 1834, offers a wide selection of cases with internal divisions, starting at around $50. The small pouches that high-end brands use to return watches after they have been repaired – Patek Philippe’s, for instance, are soft brown leather with a suede interior – are also an option, as are the boxes that watches come in at purchase.

Boxes with automatic winders are also popular; their action is designed to simulate wrist movement, to keep self-winding watches running when they are not being worn. However, the mechanisms inside these boxes sometimes wind in just one direction, Mr. Faber said, while most modern watches require movement in both directions – so it’s important to check before purchase.

While they might seem like a logical choice for storing valuables, bank safe deposit boxes aren’t recommended for watches. “It’s always cooler and drier in vaults, so what we see in a vault situation, 10 years, 20 years in, is, first of all, the gold starts to develop a black patina,” Mr. Faber said. “Also, it dries out the mechanism, so it’s not the best environment.”

Servicing

Periodically watches need care beyond what an owner can do at home. Many Swiss brands suggest that watches – quartz or mechanical – should be serviced at least every five years, to check details like the tightness of the case seals or the lubrication of internal gears.

Tourneau, one of the largest luxury watch retailers in the United States, offers a complimentary annual checkup for any watch it sells; Watches of Switzerland does, too. For quartz watches, batteries need to be changed periodically, and many owners opt to have that done professionally.

Selecting a local watch-repair business can be difficult: Unless a business is an authorized service dealer for a particular brand, it is hard to assess expertise or to ensure that the operation uses authentic replacement parts – so, say, the parts going into a Rolex have been made by Rolex, rather than less-expensive generic pieces. Many brands, like Omega, will cancel warranties if watches have been serviced by unauthorized dealers.

Some luxury Swiss brands, like Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, offer servicing in-house. The procedure can be expensive: at Patek Philippe, for example, the price of a routine quartz watch service cleaning starts at more than $600. They often send watches that need extensive work to their European headquarters, so the process can take several months and be even more costly.

“I carefully plan and carefully consider whether or not I want to put a watch in for service, knowing full well that the more complicated pieces do have to go back to Switzerland,” said Barry Beck, co-founder and chief operating officer of the beauty retailer Bluemercury, whose collection of about a dozen watches includes several Patek Philippe watches. What if he’s without a watch for several months? “I have to be O.K. with that,” he said.

Some collectors of vintage watches opt for independent servicing because, when brands replace something like the scratched crystal on a decades-old model, the resale value of such a collectible piece can be affected.

Although servicing might seem like a nuisance, some watch owners actually seem to revel in the experience. Once every other month, during business trips from his home in Bethesda, Md., Mr. Beck stops by Patek Philippe’s American headquarters in Rockefeller Center with a couple of his watches.

“Looking after them is part of the whole hobby,” he said. “It’s like art – half the fun is learning about it, looking after it, learning how to look after it better. I really the love all that, the same way that a guy who buys a car shows his car on the weekends. It’s part of the whole experience.”

Rachel Felder - The New York Times
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20 mars 2019 Glossier: From Beauty Blog to Billion-Dollar Brand Valuation

New York-based beauty brand Glossier has joined the ranks among the growing list of startup unicorns.

What started as a beauty blog by then Vogue fashion assistant Emily Weiss, is now valued as a $1.2 billion company after recently raising $100 million in Series D funding led by Sequoia Capital. Now Founder and CEO, Weiss has grown the company into a $100 million a year brand that has more than doubled revenue in this past year.

Her beauty blog “Into the Gloss” launched in 2010 and quickly amassed an impressive 10 million view a month readership. Weiss observed the opportunity for brand loyalty among her readers, that fused decided to create a direct to consumer beauty brand with messaging that fused into today’s growing, and Millennial / Gen Z driven empire also known as Glossier.

In an industry that historically pressures women to seek unattainable standards of beauty, Glossier pushes back against these norms and promotes a “less is more” approach, inviting women to enhance their assets rather than hide them. Since their launch in 2014, Glossier has expanded their offering to cosmetics, skincare and fragrances and is unofficially regarded as the “no-makeup” makeup brand. The company touts itself as a “casual and uncomplicated” beauty brand for “real life”.

Glossier has succeeded with Millennials and Gen Z by reaching them through their favorite medium: social media. Their ads feature women (and men) of all ethnicities, shapes, and sizes and offer compelling, high resolution content showcasing their beauty products in tangible ways. Glossier perfected the social outlet for beauty with visual content and a simple product design aesthetic.

Glossier is also among the rapidly growing digitally native brands who have gone into brick-and-mortar retail with locations in New York and Los Angeles and temporary pop-ups in between. The physical stores embody the brand with body positive messaging and swaths of pearly white and millennial pink décor. Pink jumpsuit clad employees armed with iPads provide a friendly and seamless shopping experience that mirrors the ease of their online experience. In other words, the store is designed to be highly instagrammable. According to Forbes, the month-long San Francisco pop-up reported a Glossier product was sold every 20 seconds on average, indicating the brand has plenty of runway for continued growth.

With the recent launch of their second beauty line, Glossier Play, and a shiny new billion-dollar valuation, this direct to consumer brand appears ready to take on the beauty giants.

Neil Stern - Forbes
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19 mars 2019 Facebook mise sur Instagram pour accélérer dans le commerce en ligne

L’appli intègre le paiement à son service shopping afin de faciliter les achats auprès des partenaires.

Déjà vitrine des tendances du monde entier, Instagram veut désormais devenir un magasin à part entière. Après le lancement de son bouton achat début 2018, l’application, qui appartient à Facebook, avance ses pions pour intégrer un peu plus encore cette fonction. Aux États-Unis, Instagram a lancé mardi un service de check out directement sur sa plateforme. On pouvait faire son shopping via Instagram, on peut désormais passer commande directement depuis l’application, sans être “rerouté” sur un site d’e-commerce. Pour ce test, l’entreprise a sélectionné vingt-deux grandes marques partenaires, dont Adidas, Nike, Uniqlo, Dior parfums, MAC Cosmetics…

Concrètement, ces marques continueront de “taguer”, c’est-à-dire d’identifier leurs produits sur le fil Instagram. Mais les consommateurs, qui auront cliqué pour accéder à la fiche d’information sur le produit, ne seront plus redirigés vers le site e-commerce de la marque ; ils pourront l’acheter directement sur la plateforme Instagram. En réduisant le …

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19 mars 2019 Kylie Jenner, l'ambassadrice du "filling"

Kylie Jenner, qui, à 21 ans, est la plus jeune milliardaire de tous les temps, n’a pas recouru à la reconstruction plastique pour transformer le visage, mignon sans plus, qu’elle avait à 16 ans en cette figure de poupée parfaite qu’elle affiche aujourd’hui. Son art, qu’elle confesse sans fard? La science aiguisée du make-up dont elle a fait sa petite (grande) entreprise et le filling, cette technique qui consiste à remplir lèvres et pommettes pour créer un triangle parfait conclu par une bouche XXL.

Sur le même sujet: Chirurgie esthétique, attention les yeux!

Jusque-là, rien de nouveau dans cet article du Times qui raconte la success-story de la benjamine du clan Kardashian. Ce qui est plus surprenant, c’est la manière dont la reine des réseaux sociaux - 129 millions de followers sur Instagram, quand même - a popularisé le filling, au point que cette pratique est aujourd’hui considérée par les teenagers comme un simple accessoire de beauté.

“Pour une jeune fille de 17 ans, désirer un comblement de la lèvre est aussi commun que désirer des bottes de chez Zara”, assure dans l’article Sarah Tongue, médecin esthétique basée à Londres. Son célèbre collègue français Jean-Louis Sebagh confirme: “Je reçois régulièrement des jeunes femmes de 18 à 20 ans qui souhaitent des pommettes rehaussées et des lèvres rebondies. Elles viennent avec leur maman et ont déjà créé sur leur iPhone une version du visage qu’elles espèrent, inspiré par celui de Kylie Jenner.”

Plus loin dans le reportage, des jeunes filles expliquent qu’elles veulent non seulement ressembler à leur égérie, mais, surtout, gagner en confiance personnelle. La star base d’ailleurs toute sa promo sur cet argument. En reprofilant son visage, il ne s’agit pas de se transformer en objet sexuel, assure la femme d’affaires, qui se considère comme un “modèle féministe”. Au contraire, il s’agit de se sentir assez belle et forte pour voler de ses propres ailes.

Diabolique, non? Il y a déjà quelque chose de stupéfiant dans ces visages ultra-maquillés. Un effet clone ou image virtuelle. C’est du reste assez drôle de constater que, tandis que l’industrie du numérique se démène pour créer des personnages virtuels plus vrais que nature, des millions de jeunes femmes se “virtualisent” par ce biais et finissent par toutes se ressembler.

Mais ce qui est plus stupéfiant encore, c’est, de la part de la star, l’art de maquiller en libération une formidable aliénation. Le temps consacré au make-up quotidien, la masse d’argent dépensée par les jeunes femmes pour les cosmétiques et les opérations, la modélisation… l’embrigadement me semble évident. Il y a du génie chez Jenner, mais son génie est un tout petit peu glaçant.

Marie-Pierre Genecand - Le Temps
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19 mars 2019 Instagram avance ses pions dans l'e-commerce

Propriété de Facebook, l’application lance un test avec 22 marques pour proposer l’achat de produits directement sur son interface. En améliorant sa fonction “shopping”, Instagram compte améliorer ses taux de conversion et vient concurrencer les géants d’e-commerce.

Plus qu’une simple vitrine, Instagram veut devenir un magasin à part entière. Après le lancement de son bouton achat début 2018, l’application qui appartient à Facebook avance ses pions pour intégrer davantage cette fonction. Aux États-Unis, Instagram teste à partir d’aujourd’hui un service de check out, directement sur sa plateforme, en partenariat avec vingt-deux grandes marques, parmi lesquelles Adidas, Nike, Uniqlo, Dior parfums, M.A.C. Cosmetics…

" LIRE AUSSI - Les cofondateurs d’Instagram quittent Facebook

Concrètement, ces marques continueront de “tagger”, c’est-à-dire identifier leurs produits sur le fil Instagram. Mais les consommateurs, qui auront cliqué pour accéder à la fiche d’information sur le produit, ne seront plus redirigés vers le site e-commerce de la marque et pourront l’acheter directement sur la plateforme Instagram. En réduisant le parcours d’achat et la friction, le géant américain compte améliorer le taux de conversion. “En intégrant le paiement directement sur notre plateforme, nous réduisons le parcours client en ligne et maximisons les chances d’aller au bout de l’acte d’achat. Actuellement, il faut compter en moyenne 22 clics entre l’ouverture de la fiche produit, la redirection vers le site partenaire et la confirmation d’achat, sans compter le temps de chargement”, explique Guillaume Cavaroc, directeur des activités distribution pour Facebook France.

" LIRE AUSSI - Facebook, Instagram et d’autres applications victimes d’une grave panne mondiale

Pour le paiement, Instagram s’est associé à PayPal. Comme pour commander un chauffeur Uber ou un panier-repas Deliveroo, les consommateurs devront d’abord renseigner leurs informations de carte bancaire, pour ensuite faire leurs achats au fil de leurs coups de cœur Intstagram. En simple intermédiaire, la plateforme transmettra les commandes aux marques qui conservent la partie logistique et payeront une commission sur chaque vente apportée par Instagram.

S’il est concluant, le test, qui ne concerne aujourd’hui qu’Instagram et le marché américain, pourrait aboutir au lancement d’un service de même nature sur Facebook et être développé dans d’autres pays.

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18 mars 2019 Misifus, pour des soins holistiques à Genève

Quand on discute avec Mari Carmen Ortiz Monasterio, propriétaire et fondatrice de Misifus, le mot “personnalisé” revient comme un mantra. Mais comment se décline cette promesse du sur-mesure en ce nouveau lieu niché dans le quartier résidentiel de Champel, à Genève? Chaque rituel de soin pour le corps débute par un échange avec la praticienne et un test de kinésiologie, pratique thérapeutique qui vise à “interroger” les émotions inscrites dans le corps en se basant sur l’étude du tonus musculaire. Cette étape donne des indications sur le traitement, les produits et les doses les mieux adaptés à la personne pour lui prodiguer tous les bienfaits de l’aromathérapie.

Elaborés selon les multiples propriétés des huiles essentielles, les produits appliqués sont signés Alqvimia, distribués en exclusivité romande. Fondée en 1984, cette marque espagnole se base sur l’alchimie des plantes et des fleurs pour nourrir la peau et libérer la vitalité. Cette cosmétique naturelle haut de gamme fusionne avec différentes techniques pour régénérer les corps avec des “rituels inspirés des traditions ancestrales et des sciences holistiques modernes”.

Il y a par exemple “Queen of Egypt”, qui évoque la routine de beauté de Cléopâtre, la femme la plus célèbre de l’Antiquité pour sa beauté fatale. Pour ce soin, les huiles essentielles d’encens et de myrrhe, connues pour la réparation cutanée et la régulation des émotions, s’associent avec une exfoliation ainsi qu’un enveloppement aux sels et algues de la mer Morte, suivis d’un massage antistress.

Toujours dédié aux femmes, le rituel “Feminine Sensuality” combine aromathérapie et lithothérapie en utilisation des pierres de grenat et de quartz rose pour stimuler la circulation et harmoniser le système hormonal avec les huiles essentielles. Le soin se poursuit avec un gommage, des moxas, sorte de cigares d’herbe ou de charbons qui sont allumés et posés près des points d’acupuncture pour stimuler la circulation - ainsi qu’un massage du ventre.

Les massages vont de la réflexologie plantaire aux massages au sol, une thérapie inspirée du yoga qui combine manipulations, pressions et étirements. Spécifiquement pour l’épiderme du visage, en plus de l’aromathérapie d’Alqvimia, les traitements dermo-cosmétiques de l’autre gamme du centre, DU Cosmetics, utilisent des complexes antirides classiques comme les vitamines et les acides lactique, glycolique, hyaluronique et rétinoïque.

Francesca Serra - Le Temps
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18 mars 2019 La contrefaçon dépasse les 450 milliards d'euros dans le monde dont 2,5 milliards en Belgique

La Chine et Hong Kong restent les principaux pourvoyeurs de marchandises pirates.

Selon le dernier rapport du Bureau européen de la propriété intellectuelle (EUIPO), que nous avons pu consulter en primeur, le volume de marchandises pirates et de contrefaçons vendues en 2016 - dernières données disponibles - dans le monde aurait atteint… 509 milliards de dollars (environ 450 milliards d’euros). Soit 3,3 % du commerce mondial ! Et encore, pointe l’EUIPO, " ce montant ne comprend pas les contrefaçons et les marchandises pirates produites et consommées dans le marché intérieur ni les produits numériques ayant fait l’objet de piratage qui sont distribués sur la toile “.

Pour rappel, la précédente évaluation de cette ampleur menée par l’EUIPO remontait à 2013 et à l’époque, le marché de la contrefaçon ne pesait " que " 2,5 % du commerce mondial (461 milliards de dollars). L’augmentation du poids des " fausses " marchandises inquiète donc l’EUIPO, d’autant " qu’elle a été observée au cours d’une période pendant laquelle l’ensemble du commerce mondial connaissait un certain ralentissement “. Au signe de cette hausse, au niveau de la seule Union européenne, les importations de contrefaçons s’élèvent à 6,8 % du total des marchandises importées (soit 121 milliards d’euros), contre 5 % en 2013.

Sans réelle surprise, c’est vers l’est, et donc l’Asie, qu’il faut tourner son regard lorsque l’on cherche les principaux pays d’origine des contrefaçons. Plus de la moitié des marchandises pirates viennent de Chine (hors Hong Kong), et ce chiffre grimpe à plus de 75 % lorsqu’on ajoute l’ancienne colonie britannique.

Chez nous, une autre étude menée par l’EUIPO évaluait à 2,5 milliards d’euros les pertes de chiffre d’affaires des entreprises belges actives dans les treize principaux secteurs frappés par la contrefaçon (pharmacie, textile, cosmétiques, téléphonie…). Cela représentait en outre plus de 8.000 emplois perdus dans notre pays (et plus de 430.000 à l’échelle de l’Union européenne).

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18 mars 2019 Sephora Accelerate: Announcing The Latest Cohort, and How The Program Has Evolved

I first wrote about the Sephora Accelerate program four years ago when it launched, and compared their model to that of other accelerators and incubators. Since then the program has grown and evolved to include a broader range of business sectors, countries and cohort members. Started by the Sephora Stands team in San Francisco that’s dedicated to social impact, Sephora Accelerate has since been embraced by Sephora globally, with start-ups winning a spot in the latest, exclusive cohort, coming from Canada, France, Brazil, Mexico, Australia and China. The list of start-ups, first announced publicly in this article, are below.

Criteria for selection include being a business with at least one female founder, having great vision, passion, a relevant background, at a minimum, a great prototype and initial formulation for testing, solving a need for which there aren’t many solutions currently, a sound business model and go-to-market strategy, and a meaningful social impact component.

I had the pleasure of interviewing 3 diverse and incredibly inspiring founders of different ages and nationalities that were just accepted into the program that starts in May. The program has grown with the latest cohort of 15 being the largest. 2 years ago, a third category of business was added, Sustainability, which includes ingredients, packaging and supply chain. The previous two include Technology, which includes hardware and software, and Merchandising, which includes products and services in color cosmetics, skincare, and fragrances. I was extremely impressed by the degree of sophistication and knowledge of the founders and how broadly their innovations and businesses can help people and the planet, above and beyond the cosmetics industry.

Sephora Accelerate falls within Sephora’s broader, multi-faceted, social impact Sephora Stands initiatives. The Accelerate program was designed to create a support network and business education that will help each business get to the next level. Participants develop relationships with other cohort members dealing with similar aspects of product development, merchandising, financing, supply chain, operations, business models, distribution, packaging, and ingredient sourcing. Combined with access to prior program alumni, these relationships will reap benefits, learning and other connections far into the future. The range of start-ups ran from early stage businesses not yet on the market, to more established businesses, already enjoying success.

There are 4 primary components of Sephora’s Accelerate program.

The 3 incredibly impressive women I interviewed from 3 different countries, all had very different and important business ideas. What follows is a brief description of each, to show the types of founders Sephora Accelerate supports. It also explains why they are so excited to be part of the program and what they expect to gain.

The company developed a natural, clean-label preservative extracted from mushrooms, for use in cosmetics and beauty products, replacing sulfates, surfactants and parabens. It prevents bacteria, yeast and mold in a safe and low-cost way. Natasha, who herself has a graduate degree in Biochemistry, is providing jobs for women with STEM educations.

Natasha is excited to be able to showcase her products to a range of vendors for added exposure and new application ideas, to learn from experts in the industry she would not otherwise have access to, and to compare experiences with the other women in the cohort.

Bread Beauty Supply is a hair care brand that serves women of color with naturally curly and coily hair with products that clean and relax hair naturally, without the use of chemicals.

Maeva is excited to learn more about all facets of her business from professionals, to further her prospects for new geographic markets beyond Australia, and to be part of a global group of amazing women that can inspire each other.

Ecologic Brands developed the world’s first paper bottle made from recycled cardboard as an alternative to standard plastic bottles. It’s a great and much-needed way to solve the mounting problem of plastic waste accumulating in oceans and landfills.

The eco.bottle® is already on the market, with a range of companies including L’Oreal, that uses it for their phytonutrient line, the first closed loop packaging solution on the market. The paper bottle uses L’Oreal’s own box waste to create the new eco-friendly packaging. Julie is looking forward to developing more opportunities and related ideas she’ll be exposed to as part of the program. As she so eloquently stated, the job of an entrepreneur is to expand your horizons every day and the Sephora Accelerate program will do that in spades.

What CMO’s Can Learn

Sephora is a very smart company. It’s best-in-class in many areas, and they know their customers better than almost any company I’ve observed. For years I’ve been teaching the Sephora Social Media Marketing Harvard Case to business school students and executives in global programs, and have followed their marketing and merchandising activities since it was written, to keep the case discussions current. Mobile Marketers identified Sephora, along with Amazon as the two top retailers globally in social media marketing.

The Sephora Accelerate program is what I call a quadruple win. It’s a win for Sephora because it’s great for its brand image to be supporting women-lead start-ups. It’s a win for the start-ups who gain valuable information and relationships that can significantly increase their chances of success. It’s a win for consumers because Sephora is helping bring products, ingredients, packaging and technology to market that are genuinely are better than what’s currently out there. Lastly, it’s a win for the planet and society by providing meaningful jobs and encouragement, and more environmentally friendly ways of getting beauty-related products and services to consumers.

The lessons for CMO’s are

  • Find meaningful CSR programs that fit with their brands and support their values, with a significant impact on consumers, society and the planet

  • Create broad scale awareness of these initiatives in an authentic way.

What follows is a brief description of each member of the new Sephora Accelerate Cohort, listed by category.

SUSTAINABILITY

Ecologic Brands developed the world’s first paper bottle made from recycled cardboard, an environmental alternative to the standard plastic bottle. In a world where plastic bottles are accumulating in oceans and environments, their paper eco.bottle® offer consumers a real solution to solve the mounting waste problem.

Chinova Bioworks developed a natural, clean-label preservative extracted from mushrooms for use in the cosmetics and beauty industry. This ingredient is broad-spectrum against bacteria, yeast, and mold and can be customized to target individual producers’ antimicrobial needs while remaining cost competitive.

TECHNOLOGY

See Thru is disrupting how consumers connect with beauty and wellness products for good. They power radical transparency through instant, in-depth, and personalized education on products while their customers shop online.

La Luer offers a non-invasive at-home facial device that delivers a standard facial process, effectively detoxing, toning, lifting and infusing the skin with active ingredients.

MERCHANDISING

Ascention is a self-care fragrance collection that helps people heal through the power of luxurious scent, the healing power of crystals and the setting of positive intentions.

Sagely Naturals infuses hemp-derived CBD into products making them effective, natural alternatives to traditional anti-stress, and anti-inflammatory pain relievers.

Green Barbès created an on-demand “micro-customization” approach that offers DIY all-natural skincare solutions allowing consumers to personalize their products based on their daily routine.

Médène offers customized essential oil blends based on a scientific algorithm to help consumers integrate oils into their daily habits as a natural solution for wellness.

Anagem supports growth for hair, lashes, brows and beards and is composed of 95% natural ingredients. Their formula has demonstrated efficacy backed by clinical research.

CARE Natural Beauty is a natural and organic certified makeup and skincare brand. Their products are 100% made in Brazil, ingredients are locally sourced, and packaging is thoughtfully designed and environmentally friendly, using only paper, glass and recyclable plastic.

Orna Makeup is a digitally-native brand founded by three sisters, focused on cruelty-free cosmetics that uses science to deliver smart personal care. Orna Makeup supports fair trade and conscious consumption, ensuring that their products meet the highest socially responsible standards.

Polvos Magicos makes organic superfood-based skincare products using locally sourced ingredients native to Mexico. The brand donates a percentage of its revenue to oceans’ conservancy projects.

The Tonik is a natural supplements brand bringing the convenience and benefits of natural health to the market via a fun approach. The brand believes that wellness comes from within, and that when you feel good you love yourself and love the skin you’re in. It wants to make healthy fun, convenient and sustainable.

Bread Beauty Supply is a hair care brand that is determined to better serve young women of color with natural curly and coily hair. Bread speaks to the Millennial and Gen Z audience, providing easy to understand products and hair routine kits for ‘naturals’ (non-chemically relaxed hair).

Paektu is a biotech company aiming to provide young women with healthy and natural skincare products, using lab cultured Cordyceps as a core ingredient. Cordyceps offer anti-aging, anti-oxidation, anti-radiation, anti-Inflammatory, and detoxification results when used on the skin.

Michelle Greenwald - Forbes
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