CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Agrégateur de news

L'agrégateur de news est un service qui réunit de façon automatique tous les sujets d'actualité en rapport avec le secteur cosmétique publiés dernièrement sur Internet, tous médias confondus.


11 juin 2019 Comment la cosmétique française s'adapte à la mode du local

Les achats de cosmétiques des touristes étrangers comptent pour 20%du chiffre d’affaires France des entreprises du secteur, soit 3 milliards d’euros.

Parfums, rouges à lèvres, soins visage… La cosmétique française continue de rayonner à l’international. Les exportations ont passé le cap des 14,5 milliards en 2018, en hausse de 6,3 %. Ce qui fait du secteur le troisième contributeur à la balance commerciale. La France reste le champion mondial de la beauté, avec 23 % de parts de marché.

On connaît L’Oréal, LVMH, Clarins, mais derrière les grands acteurs se cachent une myriade de PME, dont 82 % ont un actionnaire familial unique. Une filière très tournée vers l’international qui, des fournisseurs de matières premières aux fabricants en passant par la distribution sélective, affiche un chiffre d’affaires de 45 milliards d’euros, et emploie 246.000 salariés, indique une étude du cabinet Asteres pour la Fédération des entreprises de la beauté (FEBEA).

" Cette prédominance des exportations, qui compte pour 60 % de l’activité, oblige les entreprises à gagner en qualité, et renforce leur position y compris en France “, souligne Nicolas Bouzou, économiste et directeur de Astères. De fait, les touristes étrangers en visite dans l’Hexagone y font leurs emplettes de produits de beauté. Leurs dépenses comptent pour 20% du chiffre d’affaires local des entreprises, soit 3 milliards d’euros.

La " marque France " a donc une réelle portée dans ce secteur. La preuve, selon la FEBEA, les produits cosmétiques tricolores peuvent afficher un prix en moyenne 30 % supérieur à celui d’un produit équivalent d’un autre pays. Une puissance, qui repose d’abord sur un imaginaire fort et un art de vivre. " La cosmétique française fait rêver, elle évoque Paris, la ville lumière, le chic de la femme française, partout copiée, et de plus en plus le terroir, notamment la Provence “, relève Patrick O Quin, le président de la FEBEA.

C’est le constat de l’étude du cabinet CH2 sur l’attractivité de la France dans ce domaine. La qualité des produits, leur innocuité est aussi un atout non négligeable dans cette compétition mondiale. Par exemple aux yeux des consommateurs chinois pour lesquels, la sécurité est une forte demande. L’innovation est un autre moteur, plutôt conduite par les grands groupes, que les start-up. " Sur 15 milliards investis dans les start-up en 2018, seuls 100 millions d’euros l’ont été dans la cosmétique “, note la Fédération.

Pour autant, " cette puissance est menacée par les évolutions sociétales “, relève Patrick O Quin. En question, un” patriotisme économique “, mêlant à la fois une volonté” d’acheter local " et une plus forte conscience écologique. Le développement de la " slow cosmétique “, reprenant l’idée de réduire” les achats de produits dits futiles pour redonner du sens à sa consommation “, est un autre frein.

Sans parler de nouvelles applications, comme Yuka, QuelCosmetic ou INCI Beauty, qui analysent la composition de produits, et des études des associations de consommateurs qui tirent régulièrement la sonnette d’alarme sur la présence de perturbateurs endocriniens dans les produits. " Nos concurrents s’appuient sur ces publications pour semer le doute “, s’inquiète le président. La transparence, et la tracabilité sont devenues des exigences des Millennials. Ce qui favorise les cosmétiques” faits maison “, qui font une percée. Des défis auquel devront répondre les marques, en passant par un plus fort engagement en matière de développement durable.

La nouvelle concurrence des stars des réseaux sociaux aux Etats-Unis, qui ont lancé leur marque via le digital, est aussi surveillée à la loupe. Plus que l’essor des marques japonaises ou coréennes . Les Kylie Jenner, Rihanna, Anastasia Soare et autres Huda Kattan surfent sur ce marché de la beauté et réalisent déjà plusieurs centaines de millions de dollars, avec la vente de produits pour les sourcils ou de fonds de teint. Un phénomène pour l’instant cantonné outre-Atlantique, mais qui pourrait déferler en Europe.

Dominique Chapuis - LesEchos.fr
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10 juin 2019 How Safe Is Sunscreen?

A recent study on absorption into the bloodstream has caused concern, but you should be more worried about skin cancer.

Skin cancer is the most common malignancy in the United States, affecting more than three million people each year. Using sunscreen is one mainstay of prevention. But the recent news that sunscreen ingredients can soak into your bloodstream has caused concern.

Later this year, the Food and Drug Administration will offer some official guidance on the safety of such ingredients. What should people do in the interim as summer approaches?

The only proven health risk so far is too much sun exposure. Some may think covering up and limiting time in the sun is important only for those with lighter skin, but the recommendations against UV exposure apply to everyone.

Yes, you should probably keep using sunscreen, although some who may want to play it extra safe could switch to sunscreens that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Sunscreens were first regulated by the F.D.A. in the 1970s, and they were considered over-the-counter medications, before current American guidelines for the evaluation of drugs were put in place. Because of this, sunscreens didn’t undergo testing the way modern pharmaceuticals would.

In Europe, things are even more lax. Sunscreens are regulated as cosmetics, and because of this, many more sunscreens are approved there than in the United States.

The F.D.A., however, has wanted to know: To what degree are chemicals applied to the skin absorbed into the body, and what are the possible effects of those chemicals?

We now have information about the first question. A few weeks ago, a study was published in JAMA that randomly assigned 24 healthy people to one of four sunscreens. Two of them were sprays, the third was a lotion, and the fourth was a cream. Participants were instructed to apply the sunscreens to 75 percent of their bodies four times a day for four days, and 30 blood samples were drawn over a week.

The F.D.A.’s guidance says that any active ingredient that achieves systemic absorption greater than 0.5 nanograms per milliliter of blood should undergo a toxicology assessment to see if it causes “cancer, birth defects or other adverse effects.”

The study examined four common sunscreen components: avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene and ecamsule. For all four, systemic concentrations passed the nanogram threshold after the applications on the first day of the study. The levels were higher than the limit for the entire week for all the products except the cream.

They also increased from Day 1 to Day 4, meaning that there was accumulation of the chemical in the body with continued use.

This is not evidence that sunscreens are harmful. It’s entirely possible that the amounts absorbed are completely safe. In fact, given the widespread use of sunscreen, and the lack of any data showing increases in problems related to them, it probably is safe. Sunscreens are a key component of preventing skin damage that can lead to skin cancer.

But this doesn’t mean the effects of absorption shouldn’t be checked. The F.D.A. is preparing a final recommendation. For now, the proposed rule, which is still open for public comment, suggests that sunscreens with para-aminobenzoic acid (an association with allergies) and trolamine salicylate (an association with bleeding) should not be given the designation “generally regarded as safe and effective.”

The rule also proposes that sunscreens that rely on zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide should be “generally regarded as safe and effective.” These inorganic compounds are not absorbed into the body, and sit on the skin reflecting or absorbing the sun’s harmful rays.

Because they aren’t absorbed, they’re also noticeable. Most people prefer sunscreens that are absorbed. Lots of parents in particular prefer sprays because they’re easier and faster to apply to children, who weren’t even part of this study.

In recent years, vacation destinations like Hawaii, Palau and Key West have started to ban sunscreens with many organic ingredients because they may be damaging coral reefs. Those ingredients include oxybenzone, octinoxate and parabens.

These products can accumulate in living organisms over time, in both vacationing humans and sea creatures. Significant doses collect when tens of thousands of people wear sunscreen while swimming in the ocean. These quantities only increase when we wash them off in showers and baths into water that eventually finds its way into the ocean.

The International Coral Reef Initiative says that more research is necessary, but that while we wait for such work to happen, we should be careful. A review in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology agrees, but points out that most studies have been limited to the lab. Many have argued that we should shift to safer “reef-friendly” products.

It’s not clear, though, that sunscreens containing inorganic ingredients are good for the environment either. A study last year pointed to the fact that zinc oxide and titanium dioxide could also have bleaching effects on corals.

When it comes to personal health, a basic plan to cover up seems sensible. I wear a UV protective swim shirt and hat in the sun. My children tell me I don’t look as cool as the other dads, but I need to use a lot less sunscreen than they do. That not only makes my life easier, but it might help the environment, too.

Aaron E. Carroll - The New York Times
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6 juin 2019 La contrefaçon coûte 60 mds EUR par an à l'économie de l'UE

La contrefaçon coûte chaque année 60 milliards d’euros à 11 secteurs clés de l’économie européenne, selon une nouvelle estimation de l’Office de l’Union européenne pour la propriété intellectuelle (EUIPO) rendue publique jeudi.

L’enquête, publiée à l’occasion de la journée mondiale anti-contrefaçon, montre que les pertes directes annuelles dues au piratage et à la contrefaçon atteignent 7,4% des ventes dans les secteurs étudiés.

La contrefaçon pèse aussi sur l’emploi, puisque les fabricants légitimes produisent moins, compte tenu de la part de leurs ventes prise par les produits contrefaits, et donc emploient moins de travailleurs. L’étude chiffre à près de 468.000 les emplois perdus à l’échelle de l’UE.

En ce qui concerne la France, l’étude estime la perte à 6,2% des ventes des secteurs concernés, soit 7 milliards d’euros.

Le manque à gagner a reculé dans tous les secteurs sauf deux, dont le plus important en termes de volumes de ventes et d’emploi, les “vêtements, chaussures et accessoires”. L’autre secteur en augmentation concerne les “cosmétiques et produits de soins personnels”, note l’enquête de cette agence de l’UE.

De con côté, l’Unifab (Union des fabricants) qui réunit les entreprises engagées contre la contrefaçon met en garde contre le développement de la vente en ligne des produits de contrefaçon.

“La contrefaçon multiplie ses offres d’e-commerce en s’infiltrant insidieusement dans tous les réseaux de distribution sur internet: plateformes, réseaux sociaux, market places, sites de revente de produits d’occasion”, dénonce l’Unifab dans un communiqué.

Pour l’association, les canaux de distribution sur internet “se doivent aujourd’hui d’être les premiers acteurs à s’investir, aux côtés des marques créatrices et innovatrices, pour protéger le consommateur”.

L’Unifab rappelle que, selon une étude Ifop de 2018, plus d’un tiers des consommateurs (37%) déclarent s’être fait duper en achetant un faux produit en ligne en pensant qu’il s’agissait d’un authentique.

L’Unifab souligne toutefois que des technologies de pointe comme la blockchain ou les outils numériques de traçabilité et d’authentification “ont récemment permis de nouvelles méthodes au service de la lutte anti-contrefaçon sur internet”.

“La distribution de faux produits augmente” car les contrefacteurs “utilisent des moyens marketing offensifs pour toujours mieux duper les consommateurs”, note le président de l’Unifab Christian Peugeot, cité dans le communiqué.

Parmi ces techniques, il a cité l’usage de vraies photos, l’annonce de prix similaires à ceux des produits authentiques ou l’utilisation de “sites miroirs”.

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6 juin 2019 Hand-Wringing Over Hand Cream: 'Unlawful' Moisturizer Class Action And The Slippery Slope

As anyone who’s read Washington Legal Foundation’s commentaries here on Forbes.com on the “Food Court” knows, private enforcement of the federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDCA) via crafty state-law consumer class actions really sticks in our craw. These suits end-run the FDCA’s lack of a private right of action. Congress understood the risks of privatizing the regulation of products that account for about 20 cents of every dollar spent by U.S. consumers. And yet for nearly the last decade, federal judges have allowed suits targeting the labeling or advertising of FDA-regulated products to proceed when the applicable state law incorporates the FDCA wholesale. Here we focus on a recent decision in a class action involving Nivea skin lotion that endorses an untenable expansion of private FDCA enforcement and further greases an already slippery slope.

The Food Court Three-Step

Plaintiffs’ lawyers believed they had found an untapped source of revenue in challenging statements consumer-product manufacturers made on product labels, in ads, and on their websites. But the FDCA not only denies the lawyers a private right to sue, it also preempts any state-law claims demanding actions different from or in addition to those required by federal law. So initial class actions failed.

A workaround plan was hatched. Because California is the lawyers’ favorite venue for product-labeling class actions, we’ll use that state as an example, but the approach can also work in some other states. First, find a labeling practice that appears to violate the FDCA. Second, invoke the California Sherman Food, Drug and Cosmetic Law (Sherman Law), which incorporates the FDCA’s labeling rules. Third (because the Sherman Law provides no private right of action), allege the Sherman Law violation as a predicate act in support of claims under another California law, such as the Unfair Competition Act (UCA). This three-step maneuver has consistently helped plaintiffs’ lawyers defeat business defendants’ federal preemption arguments.

Ms. Franz filed a putative class action in the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of California, alleging that the Nivea Skin Firming Hydration Body Lotion she purchased was misbranded and was sold unlawfully as an unapproved drug. Certain statements on the product label such as “improves skin firmness within 2 weeks,” Franz argued, intimated that the lotion “affected the structure or function of the body,” terminology the FDCA views as indicia of a drug. Under this theory, Beiersdorf thus ran afoul of the state Sherman Law, a violation that rendered the product misbranded and unlawful under the UCA.

The district court decided in 2015 that Franz failed to state a cognizable claim for mislabeling, and that FDA had primary jurisdiction over whether the lotion was a drug or a cosmetic. Soon after, Franz filed a Citizen Petition with FDA asking it to warn Beiersdorf that it was marketing an unapproved drug. FDA denied the petition.

Undeterred by FDA’s denial, Franz amended her complaint, paring it down to the single UCA claim that the Nivea product was an unlawfully sold, unapproved drug. The district court again dismissed Franz’s suit for lack of standing under the UCA. Franz appealed, and the Ninth Circuit reversed and remanded in an unpublished opinion.

Beiersdorf moved yet again to dismiss the complaint this past January, arguing that Franz did not and could not plausibly allege that the lotion’s intended use was as a drug.

On May 20, the district court denied Beiersdorf’s motion. Beiersdorf’s brief cited to past FDA warning letters, FDA’s denial of Franz’s Citizen Petition, and to an FDA guidance stating that products with moisturization or hydration claims are cosmetics, not drugs. The court held that the FDA documents the defendant relied upon were non-binding and thus did not warrant judicial deference. Franz had made a plausible case that the lotion was a drug, the court concluded. It did stress, however, that the holding was “limited” and it was not deciding, at this early stage, that “the lotion is a drug.” It then suggested the court would welcome motions for summary judgment before considering class certification.

Analysis

While it’s understandable that the court would not defer to FDA’s non-binding warning letters and guidance documents, it could have dismissed Franz’s complaint on other grounds argued in Beiersdorf’s brief. First, in order to show that the Nivea lotion was being marketed as a drug, Franz had to allege that Beiersdorf intended that the product affect the structure or function of the body. Franz made no such allegation. Second, the product’s name and the statements on the label, when taken as a whole, fit far more squarely within the FDCA’s definition of “cosmetic” than “drug.” A cosmetic includes articles that are “rubbed or poured” on and “applied to the human body for . . . beautifying . . . or altering the appearance.” Federal-court caselaw establishes that a drug is a manufacturer’s intended use if label statements “constitute a representation that the product will affect the structure of the body in some medical- or drug-type fashion.”

Perhaps the arguments Beiersdorf made will be better fleshed out and successful at summary judgment. The court indicated its skepticism of Franz’s unapproved-drug claim in a footnote, referencing both FDA’s seven-year failure to take action against Nivea Skin Firming Hydration Body Lotion and the agency’s rejection of the plaintiff’s Citizen Petition as “instructive.”

That Franz’s claim made it this far, however, reflects just how pliable this indirect private right to enforce the FDCA can be. Franz’s claim, in our estimation, stretches the theory well beyond its breaking point. Franz alleges the defendant violated under the Sherman Law when Beiersdor failed to obtain approval from FDA of a New Drug Application (NDA). But the state-law duty to get FDA approval could not exist but for the FDCA requirement. And only FDA has the authority to review an NDA. The only law that Franz can ultimately enforce here through her state-law action is the FDCA.

No presumption against federal preemption applies to Franz’s claim. The defendant’s alleged marketing of an unapproved drug occurred solely because of the FDCA’s requirement. Drug approval is not an area that implicates “‘federalism concerns and the historic primacy of state regulation of matters of health and safety." See Buckman Co. v. Plaintiffs’ Legal Committee, 531 U.S. 341, 348 (2001) (quoting Medtronic, Inc. v. Lohr, 518 U.S. 470, 485 (1996)). Beiersdorf could not go to California regulators to cure its supposed violation of state law.

Buckman explained how state tort-law “fraud on the FDA” claims would “skew” the “delicate balance of statutory objectives” Congress sought to achieve with the Medical Devices Act. The same certainly goes for enforcement of the FDCA’s requirement that if a product is intended to be used as a drug, FDA must approve it. A proliferation of claims like that brought by Ashley Franz will undoubtedly skew the uniform, predictable legal framework Congress created in passing the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act.

Glenn G. Lammi - Forbes
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5 juin 2019 DEINOVE bondit grâce à un partenariat avec le géant américain Dow

(AOF) - Deinove bondit de 4,2% à 1,28 euro après l’annonce d’un nouveau partenariat avec un poids-lourd. La clean tech française engage une collaboration avec le géant américain Dow pour le développement conjoint d’un ingrédient cosmétique exclusif issu de sa collection d’extraits bactériens. Dow a sélectionné l’un des extraits d’intérêt issus de cette collection bactérienne et Deinove va désormais concevoir et optimiser un procédé de production dédié. Il assurera la transposition industrielle et la fabrication de l’actif développé.

Capitalisant sur son expertise et son laboratoire de biologie cellulaire en Belgique, Dow aura la responsabilité de qualifier l’actif cosmétique, l’intègrera à son portefeuille de produits et aura l’exclusivité commerciale au niveau mondial.

Les éléments financiers liés à cette collaboration restent pour le moment confidentiels.

LCM a confirmé sa recommandation d’Achat et son objectif de cours de 2,7 euros sur Deinove après la signature d’un partenariat avec Dow pour le développement conjoint d’un actif cosmétique exclusif. Le broker souligne que cette annonce confirme l’intérêt grandissant suscité par l’innovation technologique apportée par Deinove dans un contexte où la ruée vers les actifs naturels s’intensifie pour remplacer les ingrédients jusqu’ici pétrosourcés.

L’analyste rappelle que Solvay et Univar se sont positionnés l’an passé pour assurer la commercialisation du premier actif cosmétique anti-âge développé par Deinove, le Phyt-N-Resist.

Selon le bureau d’études, cette annonce devrait en toute logique être saluée par le marché.

Dans un contexte de volatilité des cours du pétrole, la chimie verte gagne peu à peu du terrain. Son chiffre d’affaires en France est estimé par l’Association chimie du végétal (ACDV) à environ 10 milliards d’euros. Même si cela représente moins de 15% du chiffre d’affaires global de la chimie en France (75 milliards d’euros), cette activité croît de 6% par an. C’est le double de la croissance de l’ensemble de l’industrie chimique d’après l’ACDV. Toutefois, les start-up qui travaillent sur ces problématiques ont du mal à attirer les financements, notamment en capital-risque. Depuis 2011, les fonds reçus ont reculé d’environ 25%. L’une des raisons tient au retard dans la mise en oeuvre des innovations technologiques.

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5 juin 2019 Édouard Philippe veut interdire la destruction de tous les invendus non alimentaires d'ici 2023 - L'Usine Matières premières

Mardi 4 juin, le Premier ministre a annoncé l’interdiction en France de la destruction des invendus non alimentaires. Édouard Philippe souhaite mettre en place cette mesure d’ici deux à quatre ans. Elle doit figurer dans le projet de loi sur l’économie circulaire porté par la secrétaire d’État Brune Poirson.

Selon le gouvernement, l’équivalent de 650 millions d’euros de produits non alimentaires neufs et invendus sont détruits ou jetés chaque année : vêtements, produits cosmétiques, électroménager… “Les Français ne peuvent plus tolérer qu’on mette en décharge ou qu’on incinère des produits neufs ! Cette élimination des invendus est un gaspillage qui dépasse l’entendement”, a dénoncé Édouard Philippe, en déplacement à Paris dans un magasin CDiscount.

Les filières REP devront s’adapter dès 2021

Présentée comme “une première mondiale”, la mesure doit s’appliquer dès fin 2021 pour les produits disposant d’une filière à Responsabilité élargie des producteurs (REP) pour la collecte et le recyclage des produits. Parmi ces filières REP, l’Ademe (Agence de l’environnement et de la maîtrise de l’énergie) recense de nombreux produits issus de l’industrie : l’ameublement, les produits chimiques, les médicaments, les textiles, les pneumatiques, les automobiles, les équipements électriques et électroniques…

La mesure s’appliquera pour les autres produits fin 2023 “au plus tard” selon le Premier ministre. Y compris pour les produits du luxe, secteur souvent pointé du doigt pour les destructions d’invendus. En mai, le président français avait déjà missionné le PDG de Kering pour fédérer les entreprises de la mode et du luxe sur l’enjeu écologique.

L'Usine Nouvelle - usinenouvelle.com/
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4 juin 2019 FDA Hears Concerns About The Unregulated CBD Market

Chances are that you, as a patient or consumer, have become a marketing target for cannabis-product sellers. The cannabidiol – a derivative of cannabis also known as CBD – product market is exploding. And that’s exactly why the Food and Drug Administration held its first-ever public hearing on the regulation of cannabis-derived products Friday, May 31.

According to research, the market is anticipated to reach $20 billion in sales by 2024. From candies to cosmetics, CBD is expanding to new product categories. For example, Ben & Jerry’s just announced its plan to launch a CBD-infused ice cream once CBD is legalized at the federal level. Currently, 47 states have legalized CBD for human use, according to Consumer Reports.

CBD products are being sold to youth, alongside older adults, offering multitudes of health remedies, pain relief and feel good vibes.

Also on Forbes:

However, buyer beware. The CBD product market is unregulated, leaving patients and consumers vulnerable and at risk.

FDA’s Public Hearing on CBD

At the FDA hearing – titled “Scientific Data and Information About Products Containing Cannabis or Cannabis-Derived Compounds” – on its Maryland campus, one by one, more than 100 speakers testified before a panel of the agency’s officials. They ranged from health professionals to academics to consumer advocates. As you might imagine, they provided widely contrasting views about CBD’s benefits and risks.

What most speakers agreed on: the need for federal CBD oversight for production quality, more testing and research and better product labeling and dosing guidance.

A Call for Regulatory Oversight

The FDA hearing’s first speaker, Peter Pitts, president of the Center for Medicine in the Public Interest and a former FDA associate commissioner, set the theme. “The absence to date, of advanced regulatory thinking relative to CBD has resulted in a maelstrom of false claims and shoddy quality standards,” Pitts said.

He called out “aggressive and misleading marketing campaigns” for CBD products, and urged, “It’s time for the proponents of CBD, including many highly vocal patients, physicians, pharmacists, manufacturers and distributors, to become part of the solution.

“Quality must always trump corporate convenience,” Pitts said, expressing the need for production quality oversight.

He also described a lack of a dosing schedule for CBD products. “When people are told to use CBD by physicians, pharmacists, friends or internet experts, they are not given any peer-reviewed guidelines on how they should take it or in what amounts – something that should never happen,” Pitts said.

Concern About Cannabis Addiction

Elise Weerts, professor of psychiatry and behavioral sciences at the John Hopkins University School of Medicine, presented on behalf of the College on Problems of Drug Dependence, an international group of scientists that promotes research on addictive diseases and educates legislators about implications for public policy.

“We need science to inform policy. Is cannabis good or bad? The answer is actually a little bit of both. It can have medical benefits in some cases, and also have problematic use.” Weerts said. “We’re in a vacuum right now.

“Is cannabis addictive? Yes,” Weerts continued. “There is a lot of data in scientific literature showing that thirty percent of regular users will come to have a cannabis use disorder and about three hundred thousand treatment admissions occur each year.”

Weerts explained to the FDA panel that people seek treatment for problems with functioning, memory deficits, withdrawal and other reasons.

“Few patients that seek treatment are actually able to abstain; only about 20 percent. And treatment options are not that good,” she said.

CBD Benefits for Epilepsy

Dr. Jacqueline French, chief medical officer of the Epilepsy Foundation and professor of neurology in the epilepsy program at the New York University School of Medicine, noted that CBD may be helpful for some of the roughly 3.4 million Americans who have epilepsy and seizures.

“Epilepsy, make no bones about it, is a serious and potentially life-threatening disease. And unfortunately, despite all of the therapies that are available right now, one-third of people with epilepsy do not have control of their seizures,” French said.

“I think that I speak in a unique position because CBD, we’ve been told, is not a drug,” she continued. “But we in the epilepsy community obviously know it is a drug and it is a lifesaving drug. It has been proven in randomized controlled trials of Epidiolex (a drug that contains CBD), that in high enough concentrations it can stop seizures. People who are in my community know that. They’ve heard that. They understand that. And they are looking for answers for their uncontrolled seizures.”

French told the FDA panel that taking all CBD products off the market except for those with very low concentrations of CBD, as another speaker suggested, would be detrimental to many people with epilepsy.

“As much as I’m afraid of what we have now, I am more afraid as a representative of my community of losing it,” French said. “CBD has been proven to be an effective treatment for the most severe forms of pediatric epilepsy, and I don’t know that there’s very many other circumstances where you have a drug that is life-saving as a medication and also available as a dietary supplement.”

More CBD Research Is Needed

Speaking on behalf of the Alzheimer’s Association, Dr. Keith Fargo, director of the organization’s scientific programs and outreach efforts, said he believes more CBD research on Alzheimer’s and dementia is necessary.

“Research findings to date have been inconclusive and contradictory,” Fargo said. “Although the chemical components of cannabis have been studied in relationship to Alzheimer’s and dementia, most of this research has been conducted on animal models, not in people.”

He said cannabis is, essentially, an untested drug for use with people suffering from Alzheimer’s disease and dementia.

“And like any untested drug, it cannot be responsibly recommended for human use. Only large randomized, controlled clinical trials can provide reliable evidence in efficacy in the drug for human use,” Fargo said, adding that since no such trials have been conducted, the lack of evidence creates substantial risks for people with dementia using CBD for it, and their families.

Quality Oversight Needed

Older patients are among the vulnerable without regulatory oversight.

Michelle Peace, associate professor in the department of forensic sciences at Virginia Commonwealth University, told the FDA panel that consumers wishing to buy CBD products to relieve pain or manage seizures have no way of knowing exactly what they’re getting.

“This is the case whether someone purchases from the internet or walks into a brick-and-mortar store,” Peace said. “We have seen a rash of reports nationwide of people being poisoned from taking CBD products that they purchased. Just two weeks ago, we received two CBD samples from the family of a 79-year-old woman who was convinced to take CBD by her grandchildren to relieve pain for rheumatoid arthritis. After not hearing from her for a few days, they did a wellness check. They found her hallucinating and still trembling after days of her taking it.”

Added Peace: “This unregulated industry with a high public demand and no requirements or oversight for quality, is at the edge of legality and is ample ground for nefarious activity.”

The Way Forward: FDA Invites Comments

In a May 31 story about the FDA hearing, The New York Times described in detail how the FDA was advised to move forward on regulating the cannabis industry. Dr. Norman Sharpless, the FDA’s acting commissioner of food and drugs, encouraged stakeholders to submit comments to the FDA’s Docket, which is open until July 2.

“Docket comments will help inform the FDA as we consider the important policy options related to the regulation of products containing cannabis or cannabis-derived compounds,” Sharpless said.

Next Avenue - Forbes
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4 juin 2019 Gaspillage : le gouvernement veut interdire l'élimination des produits invendus

Le gouvernement veut interdire aux producteurs, distributeurs et places de marché de détruire leurs produits non alimentaires invendus à partir de 2022 ou 2024, a annoncé mardi Edouard Philippe.

Le gouvernement entend interdire la destruction des produits non alimentaires invendus à partir de 2022 ou 2024, a assuré, ce mardi 4 juin, le Premier ministre Edouard Philippe.

Cette mesure figurera dans le projet de loi antigaspillage et pour une économie circulaire présenté en juillet au conseil des ministres, a précisé le Premier ministre. Elle doit contribuer à lutter contre le dérèglement climatique, sujet dont l’importance croissante s’est traduite par des scores élevés des partis écologistes aux élections européennes de la fin mai. Selon le texte, les entreprises devront réemployer - par des dons à des associations par exemple -, réutiliser ou recycler tous les invendus ou risquer une sanction. Le gaspillage de nombreux produits alimentaires est déjà encadré par la loi, encadrement étendu à la restauration collective et à l’industrie agroalimentaire par la loi qui a suivi les états généraux de l’alimentation, dont les décrets sont en cours de rédaction.

“Nous pouvons éviter la destruction d’objets, de produits en parfait état de marche et ce gaspillage scandaleux”, a dit le chef du gouvernement à des journalistes au côté de Brune Poirson, secrétaire d’Etat auprès du ministre de la Transition écologique, qui prépare le projet de loi. Pour les produits déjà couverts par une filière à responsabilité élargie du producteur, par exemple les textiles et les équipements électriques et électroniques, l’interdiction entrera en vigueur fin 2021. Pour les autres, elle interviendra au plus tard fin 2023, ont précisé Matignon et le ministère de la Transition écologique.

800 millions d’euros d’invendus non alimentaires chaque année en France

Selon le gouvernement, la France sera le premier pays à se doter d’une telle politique. L’objectif est d’éliminer à terme tous les invendus, ces contraintes devant favoriser une meilleure gestion des stocks. Seuls échapperaient à cette obligation les produits dont l’élimination est prescrite par la réglementation et ceux dont le réemploi, la réutilisation ou le recyclage sont impossibles, par exemple certains cosmétiques.

Selon le gouvernement, on compte en France près de 800 millions d’euros d’invendus non alimentaires chaque année, dont 180 millions d’euros de produits d’hygiène et de beauté, 49 millions de produits textiles et chaussures et 10 millions d’électro-ménager. Seuls 140 millions d’euros de produits font l’objet d’un don. Dans le monde, l’industrie du textile émet chaque année 1,2 milliard de tonnes de gaz à effet de serre, soit 2% des émissions globales, un montant supérieur aux vols internationaux et au trafic maritime réunis, souligne le gouvernement.

Reuters - La Tribune
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4 juin 2019 Naturopathica: The Sensorial Skincare Rooted In Herbal Medicine

In the 1980’s, Barbara Close was studying herbal medicine in Santa Fe, New Mexico when her mother was diagnosed with lung cancer. Close, a former social worker, decided to go back home to Virginia to support her mom during her treatments.

It was through this process that Close was able to see from her own experience how effective herbal remedies could be. “Western medicine falls short on palliative care. Fortunately, I was able to use my knowledge of herbal remedies to see firsthand how lemon-balm tea eased my mother’s anxiety, calendula salves soothed her radiation burns, and weekly aromatherapy massages alleviated her pain,” recalls Close.

From that point on, Close was determined to help other people learn about these simple, traditional remedies, and rituals that could help them live better lives every day.

Three years later in 1995, she opened the first Naturopathica Healing Arts Center in East Hampton, NY with holistic facials, massage, and herbal consultations where they offered tips and remedies to treat the source of skin and body imbalances. “The products were a natural progression soon after opening the healing arts center to make sure that our homecare aligned with our ingredient standards,” Close explains.

Over the last two decades, Close, who self-funded Naturopathica, has built the brand from the ground up fueled by consistent quality and consumer education.

“We weren’t looking to go from zero to 60 out of the gate,” explains Close. “In truth, we never set out to be a beauty brand. We opened as a healing arts center. The beauty piece grew from a genuine interest in skin care and herbal remedies that not only made the skin more beautiful, but also helped to address the source of an imbalance, so results had a lasting impact. Our steady growth made the investment more manageable.”

Naturopathica products are created using the principles of naturopathic medicine, which emphasizes doing no harm, treating the individual, and addressing the root cause of skin imbalances, not just the symptoms.

“We’re also advantaged with the wisdom of experience,” shares Close. “While many brands are just trying to clean up their act, we’ve been able to evolve and perfect our clean and effective formulas over two decades, allowing us to create more advanced products using green chemistry, safe synthetics and the most effective botanicals that nature has to offer.”

As a practicing herbalist, Close does product ideation with herbs from her own garden on Long Island. “I grow Calendula for salves, Passionflower for restful sleep tinctures, Lavender for bath oils, Chamomile for tea and more. I also get inspiration for products by foraging. For example, I discover adaptogens like Reishi Mushrooms on my hikes through the woods,” Close tells me.

As a pragmatic product formulator, Close gets inspiration from the classics as well as keeping an eye out on technological advances. “There’s so much fascinating research right now into herbs like Cannabis and Kava Kava that interact with the Endocannabinoid System, which plays a crucial role in regulating our physiology, mood, and everyday experience,” she continues.

While Close prefers to work with small, independent farms where herbalists grow and harvest herbs sustainably and with appropriate extraction methods to maximize the therapeutic properties of the plant, her supply chain isn’t always that cut and dry. “While there is a lot of interest in natural and organic products right now, the one issue that no one is addressing is sustainability,” Close says.

“There is simply not enough plant material to meet the demand and many plants are endangered, like Arnica, American Ginseng and Echinacea, for example. That’s why we choose to use green technologies such as plant stem cells, which are cultivated and harvested in a lab setting,” explains Close. “This method not only protects natural resources by decreasing water use, maintaining ingredient purity and reducing the depletion of whole plants, but it also creates more active ingredients.”

While Naturopathica was not the first natural skincare brand in the United States, they were the first to focus on ‘clean’ products.

“To us, this meant not only using clean active ingredients, but also safe and non-irritating surfactants, emulsifiers, and preservative systems,” Close says. Naturopathica was the first to introduce American-made facial oils in the U.S. with the Carrot Seed Soothing Facial Oil in 1996, and the first brand to go beyond ingredients to focus on holistic beauty using treatments, topicals, and ingestible herbal remedies such as teas and tinctures.

Because the brand has always believed in transparency, in 2009 Naturopathica became one of the first American brands to receive certification under the ECOCERT Natural & Organic Cosmetic standard.

“ECOCERT ensures the highest standard in clean skincare, guaranteeing that formulas contain a minimum of 95% plant-based ingredients, are from renewable sources, are manufactured using environmentally-friendly business practices, are packed and delivered in biodegradable or recyclable packaging, and are free of GMOs, parabens, phenoxyethanol, nanoparticles, silicon, PEGs, and synthetic perfumes and dyes,” states Close.

When I ask Close what her brand is synonymous with, she tells me, “We’re best known for being a destination for safe and sensorial skincare, especially for sensitive skin types. Some of our most well-loved products include our probiotic Manuka Honey Cleansing Balm – now a winner of Oprah, Self, Glamour and NewBeauty awards – our skin-saver Carrot Seed Soothing Facial Oil, and our Vitamin C15 Wrinkle Repair Serum, a brightening serum that smooths and plumps without redness and sensitivity.”

One of Close’s favorite products, the Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel, is also one of my favorite Naturopathica products. “This peel is a universal treatment for brightening and refreshing dull skin. Although most people think to invest in serums and creams, exfoliation is critical because it removes the dead skin cells that keep your serums and creams from penetrating.” Not only does this peel smell like a delicious, freshly made cherry pie, when you rinse it off you get the added benefit of tasting it too.

With a product portfolio ranging from skincare to body care, teas, and tinctures, I ask Close if there are any products she feels should be getting a little more attention? “If there is one lovechild after almost twenty-five years of business, it’s the herbal medicine and the ingestible products. Herbal tinctures were the original form of medicine,” responds Close.

When I ask her where she sees the brand headed in the next three-five years Close tells me, “While our clean commitment isn’t going to change, I think that all brands in the natural space will need to take a careful look at how we’re sourcing and choosing our botanical extracts, to make sure that we’re preserving both the quality and bio-diversity of these special ingredients.”

Close continues, “As this trend grows – and we hope that it does – we’ll need to be mindful of our finite resources and work to minimize pesticides, water-use, and plant-waste. We’ll look to green chemistry to help inform our innovation.”

Meggen Taylor - Forbes
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4 juin 2019 Pour relancer leurs ventes, les fabricants de cosmétiques se convertissent au bio

Lancement d’une marque de produits cosmétiques bio et conversion de plusieurs de ses produits chez L’Oréal, le leader mondial des cosmétiques. Obtention de la certification bio Ecocert pour certains pains de savon Unilever, le numéro deux du marché français des soins, qui a aussi dévoilé une nouvelle marque et remplacé dans ses shampooings " les silicones par de l’huile de noix de coco bio “. Même stratégie pour Henkel, autre poids lourd du secteur.

Dans les hypermarchés et supermarchés, premier circuit de vente de produits cosmétiques en France, le rayon de soins bio ne cesse de gagner des mètres carrés. L’inflation de produits bio y a atteint 55 % en un an. Et les nouveautés ne sont plus le seul apanage des grosses PME du secteur, dont Léa Nature. " C’est surtout le fait des grands fabricants de produits cosmétiques, dont le nombre de références bio a bondi de 155 % “, constate Emily Mayer, chargée d’études chez IRI, spécialiste de ce secteur.

Cette vague déferle aussi dans les parfumeries (20 % des ventes de produits cosmétiques en France). Les pionniers des soins naturels développent leurs gammes. Clarins, première marque de crèmes en parfumerie, a lancé une ligne destinée aux jeunes femmes de moins de 30 ans, et la promeut en vantant ses " 88 % d’ingrédients naturels " sans " phtalates, ni parabènes ni sulfates “. Sisley, marque de phytocosmétologie haut de gamme, fait un tabac avec sa nouvelle gamme de shampooings, notamment auprès des hommes. Du” jamais-vu “, assure Philippe d’Ornano, son président.

Toutes les enseignes réagissent. Le Printemps implante Aroma-Zone, spécialiste de l’aromathérapie, dans trois de ses magasins, à Metz, Strasbourg et Lille d’ici à septembre. Casino et L’Oréal développent leur réseau Le Drugstore parisien en y faisant la part belle au bio. Marionnaud a lancé sa gamme Green, composée de 17 produits fabriqués dans l’Hexagone à partir de 90 % d’ingrédients d’origine naturelle. " Que ce soit dans l’agroalimentaire ou dans la cosmétique, les consommateurs français sont en quête de naturalité “, juge Gabriele Pellegrini, directeur clients et marketing du distributeur.

Cette réaction est à la hauteur de la crise sans précédent que traverse le marché depuis trois ans. Les consommateurs ne cachent plus leur défiance envers l’industrie cosmétique et boudent les grandes surfaces. Un tiers d’entre eux disent ne plus y acheter des produits d’hygiène-beauté, d’après Kantar Worldpanel. En cause : un " manque de confiance envers leur composition “, explique MMayer. D’où le succès des applis Yuka ou QuelCosmetic, qui traquent les ingrédients sujets à caution.

Juliette Garnier - Le Monde.fr
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