CosmeticOBS - L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Agrégateur de news

L'agrégateur de news est un service qui réunit de façon automatique tous les sujets d'actualité en rapport avec le secteur cosmétique publiés dernièrement sur Internet, tous médias confondus.


12 avr. 2019 Unilever rachète Fluocaril et Parogencyl

Le géant anglo-néerlandais de l’agroalimentaire et des cosmétiques Unilever a annoncé vendredi qu’il allait acquérir les marques de soins bucco-dentaires Fluocaril et Parogencyl du géant américain des produits de consommation courante Procter & Gamble (P&G).

“Unilever a annoncé ajourd’hui (vendredi) avoir signé un accord pour acquérir les marques de soins buccaux Fluocaril et Parogencyl de P&G”, a indiqué la compagnie dans un communiqué, sans divulguer le montant de la transaction. L’acquisition devrait être finalisée au cours du deuxième trimestre de l’année 2019, a précisé Unilever, connu notamment pour ses produits Dove et ses crèmes glacées Ben & Jerry’s.

Fluocaril et Parogencyl sont des marques actives dans le secteur pharmaceutique, principalement en France et en Espagne, et “bénéficient d’un fort soutien de la part des professionnels de la santé”. “Grâce à cette acquisition, Unilever occupera une position de leader dans les soins bucco-dentaires au sein du secteur pharmaceutique en France, ainsi que des positions fortes en Espagne”, s’est réjoui la compagnie.

Agence France-Presse - Le Figaro.fr
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12 avr. 2019 Les cosmétiques, l'autre visage du " made in Japan "

Au rez-de-chaussée de la boutique Shiseido située à Tokyo, dans le quartier de Ginza, en cette fin de journée d’avril, une dizaine de Chinoises virevoltent autour des stands rouge et noir de la marque de maquillage et de soins. Elles pressent les tubes, dévissent les pots, étalent des crèmes sur le dos de leurs mains et rient des fards posés sur leurs paupières. " No photo “, réprouve une vendeuse en agitant les mains.

Les touristes chinoises sont nombreuses à découvrir les gammes de la plus réputée des marques japonaises de produits de beauté et à acheter ses produits blanchissants pour espérer une peau de porcelaine ou ses sérums pour lutter contre les dommages de la pollution en ville. A Tokyo, le prix est jugé plus avantageux que dans les grands magasins en Chine. De 15 % environ. De retour au pays, beaucoup d’entre elles continueront d’acheter du Shiseido, quitte à traquer les promotions sur Alibaba, le plus puissant des sites chinois de commerce électronique.

De fait, les ventes de produits de beauté japonais battent des records à l’export, selon le ministère de l’économie, du commerce extérieur et de l’industrie japonais (METI). En 2017, elles ont franchi la barre des 3,4 milliards de dollars (3 milliards d’euros). C’est trois fois plus qu’en 2012. Et le rythme de croissance est bien plus rapide que l’export des automobiles Toyota, Suzuki et Nissan.

En Chine, le marché de la beauté affiche une folle croissance depuis une dizaine d’années

Le débouché naturel du secteur nippon de la beauté, ce sont les pays voisins d’Asie, à commencer par la Chine et son 1,3 milliard de consommateurs. Tout comme les industriels coréens, les fabricants japonais y ciblent une population qui adore les produits cosmétiques. En Chine, le marché de la beauté affiche une folle croissance depuis une dizaine d’années. Il devrait atteindre les 40 milliards de dollars de chiffre d’affaires en 2021, grâce à une progression de 9 % par an, prévoit le cabinet Euromonitor International.

Conçus pour des carnations asiatiques et des cheveux noir de jais, les soins, shampooings et fards des Japonaises conviennent, sans surprise, aux Chinoises. Mieux : elles les plébiscitent. Ce qui n’est pas sans inquiéter les groupes occidentaux, dont le français L’Oréal et l’américain Estée Lauder. " Le repli identitaire est très fort dans tous les pays d’Asie. Il y a dix ans, les Chinoises étaient fascinées par les marques européennes, françaises notamment. Celles qui les influencent, aujourd’hui, ce sont les marques locales “, observe Nathalie Rozborski, consultante du cabinet de tendances NellyRodi, spécialiste de la beauté.

Juliette Garnier - Le Monde.fr
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12 avr. 2019 Europe shows Eastern promise for packaging sales

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Analysis in the latest strategy document from Smithers Pira identifies key national markets in central and eastern Europe that are set to grow demand for packaging for the next five years. Produced in cooperation with Packaging Europe, The European Packaging Competitive Landscape: Strategic Forecasts to 2023 combines expert national and company profiles and data forecasts for the evolution in this key region.

The saturated nature of western European consumption of packaged means most growth potential lies further east. While western Europe is just over 75% of the combined European market it is growing sluggishly at a rate of 1.3% year on year, compared to a mean rate of 3.7% year-on-year to the east.

This poses a challenge for packaging firms in terms of growing these markets. As the value of the eastern European market rise by over €10 billion across the next five years to reach €55.8 billion in 2023. In this region the key markets are:

Russia

Russia is now recovering from a recession in the mid-2010s, exacerbated by international sanctions following its conflict with Ukraine. A resurgence in oil prices is underpinning recovery in the largest economy in eastern Europe and rising demand for packaged goods. It accounts for almost one-third of total packaging sales in 2018.

Modern retailing is developing rapidly in Russia, which positively impacts packaged food sales with an increasing variety of packaged products becoming more widely available, along with lower unit prices. Moscow’s import ban on food from the EU is limiting this market for established converters in the west, but there has been a noticeable upswing in the domestic packaging sector as a direct effect - favouring Russian based converters.

Healthcare and cosmetics packaging are expected to perform well over the forecast period as the economy recovers and consumers’ real incomes start to rise again.

Soft drinks consumption has declined in recent years due to the economic crisis in the country. Beer consumption is also declining sharply due to the economic crisis and the introduction of government measures to discourage heavy drinking.

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Poland

The second largest packaging market in eastern Europe is Poland. Having exceeded €10 billion for the first time in 2018 it is worth more than a quarter of the total for Eastern Europe. The Polish economy is forecast to continue growing during 2018-23 at a healthy rate of close to 3.0% supported by solid investment and consumption growth.

This will be see positive growth for healthcare packaging and cosmetics and personal care packaging across this period. Packaged food continues to experience positive growth too, though soft drinks and alcoholic drinks packaging will only post moderate growth over the forecast period.

In recent years, Poland’s flexible packaging industry has experienced high levels of inward direct investment from international food brand owners, who are keen to take advantage of growing packaged food markets in eastern Europe and Poland’s lower production costs.

Other eastern Europe

The remaining countries of central and eastern Europe are mostly developing economies with good potential for further packaging market penetration, with many benefiting from entry into the European Union.

Hungary, the Czech Republic and Romania are the largest packaging markets in the region. Hungary, the Czech Republic and the Baltic States are the fastest-growing packaging markets.

Packaging market value is projected at €21.2 billion in 2018 and is forecast to grow 3.2% annually during 2018-23 to reach €24.8 billion.

The European Packaging Competitive Landscape: Strategic Forecasts to 2023 is available for purchase. Order now and claim an exclusive 10% discount for Packaging Europe subscribers.

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11 avr. 2019 2019 débute fort pour LVMH

(AOF) - “Encore !” commente aujourd’hui l’analyste de JPMorgan, résumant parfaitement les réactions des brokers à la publication des ventes de LVMH. Hier soir, le groupe a, une nouvelle fois, dévoilé un chiffre d’affaires trimestriel au-delà de toutes les espérances. Les ventes du numéro un mondial du luxe ont progressé de 11% en organique, marquant une accélération par rapport à la hausse de 9% du quatrième trimestre 2018. Le consensus tablait sur une hausse de 9%. En données publiées, le chiffre d’affaires atteint 12,5 milliards d’euros, en progression de 16%.

Le numéro un mondial du luxe peut compter sur l’appétit toujours plus vorace des Chinois pour la marque phare de sa branche Mode et Maroquinerie, Louis Vuitton, qui est aussi sa principale source de profit.

En effet, la croissance organique de cette division, qui intègre également des marques comme Christian Dior, Celine, Fendi, Loewe et Berluti, est ressortie à 15%, au-dessus des attentes du marché qui tablait sur + 12%.

Autre bonne surprise, sa deuxième branche la plus rentable, les vins et spiritueux, a rebondi. Après une décroissance organique de 1% au dernier trimestre 2018, elle a grimpé de 9% sur les trois premiers mois de 2019.

LVMH a expliqué que les cuvées de prestige avaient connu une performance particulièrement bonne, notamment aux Etats-Unis et au Japon. L’activité a bénéficié par ailleurs d’une politique ferme de hausse de prix. Le cognac Hennessy a vu enfin ses volumes augmenter de 11 %.

Si JPMorgan a confirmé sa recommandation d’Achat et son objectif de cours de 355 euros sur la valeur, d’autres ont ajusté à la hausse leurs prévisions.

Ainsi, Société Générale a relevé sa recommandation sur le titre de Conserver à Achat et porté son objectif de cours à 385 euros. De son côté, Deutsche Bank a revu à la hausse son objectif de cours de 310 à 330 euros tout en maintenant sa recommandation Conserver.

Seul bémol, Invest Securities a salué un “modèle unique par sa puissance et son rayonnement tant en termes de positionnement sectoriel que géographique”, mais rappelé que “ce qui est beau est cher”.

Aussi, le broker, jugeant “la prime au leader bien valorisée”, s’est-il contenté de relevé son objectif de cours de 265 à 305 euros tout en réitérant sa recommandation Neutre.

  • Leader mondial du luxe, notamment dans le champagne, le cognac et la maroquinerie, l’un des leaders mondiaux dans la mode, les parfums et les cosmétiques et numéro trois dans la joaillerie et l’horlogerie ;

  • Positions concurrentielles très solides avec 70 maisons de luxe (Louis Vuitton, leader mondial incontesté, au taux de croissance et à la rentabilité exceptionnels, Moët Hennessy, Dior, Céline Givenchy, Guerlain, Kenzo, Bulgari, TagHeuer…) ;

  • Contrôle étroit des canaux de distribution avec un réseau mondial de près de 4 400 magasins, dont DFS en Asie, puis Miami Cruise, Sephora et Le Bon Marché ;

  • Diversification dans l’hôtellerie, d’abord en France sous la marque Cheval Blanc, puis en Bulgarie et, récemment, avec l’offre sur le groupe Belmont, présent dans 24 pays, également présent dans les croisières et les trains de luxe ;

  • Marge opérationnelle maintenue autour de 20 % malgré un contexte économique défavorable au luxe ;

  • Situation financière très saine avec un cash flow de près de 5 Mds€, un ratio d’endettement de 24 % d’où la générosité envers les actionnaires (hausse annuelle de 12 % du dividende sur les 5 dernières années.

  • Impact négatif de la parité euro contre les autres monnaies, compensé par les hausses de prix ;

  • Montée en puissance du " marché gris “, fondé sur les écarts de prix entre l’Europe et l’Asie ;

  • Forte concurrence dans les marchés de la joaillerie et des montres ;

  • Déséquilibre des rentabilités entre branches, la maroquinerie apportant plus de 60 % des bénéfices du groupe avec une marge opérationnelle de près de 32 % ;

  • Volatilité accrue en raison des exigences à l’égard d’une valeur dans les tous premiers rangs du CAC 40 par sa capitalisation.

  • Corrélation de l’activité aux flux touristiques et forte saisonnalité des ventes traditionnellement élevées en fin d’année ;

  • Distribution avec service d’acompte ;

  • Sensibilité boursière aux déclarations des autres dirigeants du luxe ;

  • Evolution des activités Mode & Maroquinerie et Vins & Spiritueux qui assurent les 3/4 de la rentabilité opérationnelle ;

  • Capital verrouillé par le groupe familial Arnault (46,8 % du capital, directement et indirectement et les 2/3 des droits de vote).

Luxe et cosmétiques

Les partenariats entre les géants du luxe et les acteurs du digital se multiplient, les premiers cherchant à s’adapter aux évolutions du comportement des consommateurs, notamment en Chine. Le cabinet Bain & Co prévoit que les achats en ligne, qui représentent aujourd’hui 9% du marché mondial du luxe, représenteront 25 % d’ici à 2025. Ynap, la plate-forme de commerce en ligne de Richemont, va lancer deux applications mobiles avec Alibaba pour cibler la jeune clientèle locale en Chine. Il y a quelques mois, le groupe avait annoncé le rachat de Watchfinder, un site d’achat et de revente de montres de luxe d’occasion. Il avait auparavant pris le contrôle de la plate-forme Yoox Net-a-Porter. Chanel, est, lui, entré au capital du britannique Farfetch, une plate-forme de vente de produits de luxe. Quant à LVMH, il a pris une participation dans Lyst, un moteur de recherche dédié à la mode, après avoir ouvert la plate-forme internet 24 Sèvres.

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11 avr. 2019 La valeur du jour à Paris LVMH maintient la cadence

(AOF) - En hausse de 3,11% à 340 euros, LVMH signe l’une des plus fortes hausses du CAC 40, emportant dans son sillage Kering (+1%) et, dans une moindre mesure, Hermès (+0,1%). Les investisseurs saluent le début d’année éclatant du numéro un mondial du luxe. Encore et toujours alimentées par la boulimie des Chinois pour les produits de luxe, les ventes ont bondi de 11% en organique au premier trimestre 2019 après +9% au dernier trimestre 2018. Les analystes ne s’attendaient pas à une telle performance. JPMorgan, par ailleurs très positif sur le titre, n’escomptait qu’une croissance stabilisée à 9%.

Comme de coutume, la branche Mode et Maroquinerie, dont Louis Vuitton est le vaisseau amiral, a été la principale locomotive du groupe. Sa croissance organique est ressortie à 15%, au-dessus des attentes du broker qui tablait sur +12%.

Dans les Parfums & Cosmétiques, la croissance organique des ventes s’établit à 9%.

L’activité Vins & Spiritueux enregistre une croissance organique de 9 % de ses ventes à 1,349 milliard. Les volumes du cognac Hennessy ont grimpé de 11% grâce notamment aux fêtes du nouvel an chinois.

Le groupe d’activités Montres & Joaillerie enregistre au une croissance organique de 4 % de ses ventes, tirée par la performance de la joaillerie.

Dans la Distribution sélective, la croissance organique des ventes s’établit à 8%.

Au final, le chiffre d’affaires de LVMH a atteint 12,5 milliards d’euros, en progression de 16%.

Selon une source de marché, Société Générale a relevé sa recommandation sur le titre de Conserver à Achat et porté son objectif de cours à 385 euros.

Dans son bulletin quotidien, Invest Securities a salué un “modèle unique par sa puissance et son rayonnement tant en termes de positionnement sectoriel que géographique”.

Pour autant, a-t-il rappelé, “ce qui est beau est cher”. Aussi, le broker, jugeant “la prime au leader bien valorisée”, s’est-il contenté de relevé son objectif de cours de 265 à 305 euros tout en réitérant sa recommandation Neutre.

  • Leader mondial du luxe, notamment dans le champagne, le cognac et la maroquinerie, l’un des leaders mondiaux dans la mode, les parfums et les cosmétiques et numéro trois dans la joaillerie et l’horlogerie ;

  • Positions concurrentielles très solides avec 70 maisons de luxe (Louis Vuitton, leader mondial incontesté, au taux de croissance et à la rentabilité exceptionnels, Moët Hennessy, Dior, Céline Givenchy, Guerlain, Kenzo, Bulgari, TagHeuer…) ;

  • Contrôle étroit des canaux de distribution avec un réseau mondial de près de 4 400 magasins, dont DFS en Asie, puis Miami Cruise, Sephora et Le Bon Marché ;

  • Diversification dans l’hôtellerie, d’abord en France sous la marque Cheval Blanc, puis en Bulgarie et, récemment, avec l’offre sur le groupe Belmont, présent dans 24 pays, également présent dans les croisières et les trains de luxe ;

  • Marge opérationnelle maintenue autour de 20 % malgré un contexte économique défavorable au luxe ;

  • Situation financière très saine avec un cash flow de près de 5 Mds€, un ratio d’endettement de 24 % d’où la générosité envers les actionnaires (hausse annuelle de 12 % du dividende sur les 5 dernières années.

  • Impact négatif de la parité euro contre les autres monnaies, compensé par les hausses de prix ;

  • Montée en puissance du " marché gris “, fondé sur les écarts de prix entre l’Europe et l’Asie ;

  • Forte concurrence dans les marchés de la joaillerie et des montres ;

  • Déséquilibre des rentabilités entre branches, la maroquinerie apportant plus de 60 % des bénéfices du groupe avec une marge opérationnelle de près de 32 % ;

  • Volatilité accrue en raison des exigences à l’égard d’une valeur dans les tous premiers rangs du CAC 40 par sa capitalisation.

  • Corrélation de l’activité aux flux touristiques et forte saisonnalité des ventes traditionnellement élevées en fin d’année ;

  • Distribution avec service d’acompte ;

  • Sensibilité boursière aux déclarations des autres dirigeants du luxe ;

  • Evolution des activités Mode & Maroquinerie et Vins & Spiritueux qui assurent les 3/4 de la rentabilité opérationnelle ;

  • Capital verrouillé par le groupe familial Arnault (46,8 % du capital, directement et indirectement et les 2/3 des droits de vote).

Luxe et cosmétiques

Les partenariats entre les géants du luxe et les acteurs du digital se multiplient, les premiers cherchant à s’adapter aux évolutions du comportement des consommateurs, notamment en Chine. Le cabinet Bain & Co prévoit que les achats en ligne, qui représentent aujourd’hui 9% du marché mondial du luxe, représenteront 25 % d’ici à 2025. Ynap, la plate-forme de commerce en ligne de Richemont, va lancer deux applications mobiles avec Alibaba pour cibler la jeune clientèle locale en Chine. Il y a quelques mois, le groupe avait annoncé le rachat de Watchfinder, un site d’achat et de revente de montres de luxe d’occasion. Il avait auparavant pris le contrôle de la plate-forme Yoox Net-a-Porter. Chanel, est, lui, entré au capital du britannique Farfetch, une plate-forme de vente de produits de luxe. Quant à LVMH, il a pris une participation dans Lyst, un moteur de recherche dédié à la mode, après avoir ouvert la plate-forme internet 24 Sèvres.

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10 avr. 2019 Who Gets to Be a Citizen in 2024?

Both of my parents are from Ghana. I was born and raised in the Washington Heights neighborhood of New York City. I’m the youngest of three. One of my siblings is a doctor. One of my siblings works in administrative social work. I am an actor and a writer. Both of my siblings and I have master’s degrees or higher from Ivy League and/or extremely competitive universities. We are Africans. We are Americans. We are not descendants of “shithole countries.”

A doctor, MARY, dressed in her white coat, SIMON, a lawyer, dressed in a nice suit, and DANIEL, a schoolteacher and dressed as such, all sit in a waiting room. It could be a doctor’s office or the D.M.V. – suffice to say it’s a boring office where some version of important work is getting done. MARY and SIMON are in the middle of catching up like old friends.

MARY (Laughing.) Oh my God, she didn’t!!

SIMON She did! She marched right back in there and told that maître d’, “Listen, and you can tell that piece of crap you call a chef that I have been to the Caspian Sea and know what good caviar tastes like! Whatever that trash was that you just served us is not even good enough for my dogs!” And then she stomped out in the way that only Lexi can.

MARY Wow. You see, this is why I miss working with her. She was never afraid to tell it like it is.

MARY Well, please tell her I said hello. Actually, let me put in my reminders to call her. We are long overdue for a lunch.

SIMON Yeah, I bet. How are things going with the new hospital? It’s a women’s center right?

MARY Yes, right downtown, and it’s going great, thank you. We just hired a great team, an amazing group of doctors, and it’s a public center, which has been great for the community.

SIMON O.K., “New Amsterdam.”

MARY Ha! Not quite, but we’re trying. That first day we opened, we had so many people flooding in.

MARY – Yeah, for like two weeks and then going to see my mom since she retired and moved back.

SIMON Ugh, I know. But Lexi has a friend who had her meeting last week and she told me the wait was long but the meeting itself took only a few minutes and she was done – she was back at work by the end of the day.

MARY That’s good to hear. Though my only pressing engagement today is my 6 p.m. mani-pedi.

MARY – Soooo stupid. But what should we expect? This place has been upside down for so long, I don’t even remember what it was like on the other side.

SIMON The good ol’ days.

MARY Exactly. Well, hopefully this will be quick. I’ve heard it’s hard to tell who they are targeting.

MARY Oh, Si, you have to go. It’s incredible. Carl and I took the kids on a yacht through there last year, it was amazing. And so cheap! Only 25 for two weeks.

Just then, a WOMAN IN A DARK SUIT with an official-looking government badge on her lapel opens the door, holding a clipboard. She crosses a name off her list and then moves on to the next one.

DARK-SUITED WOMAN Do you have all of your paperwork filled out and appropriate IDs as requested?

SIMON hands her the paperwork. She quickly thumbs through it and seems satisfied with everything.

MARY Yeah, I’ll see you in a few minutes, or if not, then when Carl and I come over for dinner or something.

MARY I used to love English class. All the short stories and novels we got to read. All the essays we had to write. I was pretty good at writing, actually – if I do say so myself.

DANIEL Uh, yeah. Some personal essays. Responding to something or someone that’s weighing on their hearts and minds.

MARY (Laughs.) Are they all about their boyfriends and girlfriends? How their little hearts are broken from unrequited love?

DANIEL (Not amused.) No, actually. They are personal narratives about what it has been like seeing their families and communities torn apart by the BCR Act.

DANIEL (Is she serious?) Ummm … I don’t know what that has to do with it. I’m a teacher. You’re a doctor. And I don’t know what your little richie-rich friend who just went in there does, but none of that matters. We’re all still sitting here waiting to see if we’ve contributed enough to this country to keep our constitutional right to our citizenship. So I don’t know what my students’ social status matters.

MARY Whoa … O.K. I wasn’t trying to start anything. I’m just saying, there have been tons of articles written that show that the Birthright Citizenship Reform has mainly affected people who come from lower … income households. You know, people who, they … you know, deem as not the biggest contributors to the country. You and I and my dear friend Simon in there – who is a lawyer, by the way – we clearly are not in that category. But we have to go through the motions. It can’t look that rigged. It would just be unfair.

DANIEL Oh, that’s what you think? You think these people are not worried about the four million children born to black and brown immigrant parents every year? You think these people want me to be their kid’s teacher? Or you their doctor? Or Simon defending them in court? Wake up, sis. It’s real out here. And your little women’s hospital and your $20,000 yachts ain’t saving you from a damn thing! This is the America we were born into. Whether you’re just discovering its ugly side or not.

DANIEL rolls his eyes and tries to return to grading his papers, but he’s clearly very annoyed at everything – especially MARY. They both sit in silence for an uncomfortable beat.

MARY And for the record – this is not the America I was born into. I was raised to see this as a land of opportunity and that if you work and study hard, you can be anything you want to be. That there are endless possibilities out there for you … I’m sorry you don’t see things that way.

DANIEL Well, let me borrow your rose-colored glasses and I might.

The DARK-SUITED WOMAN opens the door with her clipboard, with the same menacing yet bored attitude she had moments ago.

DARK-SUITED WOMAN (Reading and butchering the name.) Add – Add – Ebola? Whatisthis? Ugh, whatever, something Mary something Johnson?

DARK-SUITED WOMAN Sure. Do you have all of your paperwork filled out and appropriate IDs as requested?

MARY hands her the paperwork. She quickly thumbs through it as before and seems satisfied with everything.

DARK-SUITED WOMAN Listen, I can’t give you any more information unless you are related to him. Now, step inside, ma’am.

MARY I want to know why he’s been detained. I need to call his wife and let her know.

MARY is shocked but for the first time looks scared. She looks back to DANIEL, who also looks terrified, then turns back to the DARK-SUITED WOMAN and nods as she slowly walks into the room. The DARK-SUITED WOMAN slams the door again, startling DANIEL a bit. He sits there alone in the silence. He looks around, unsure of what to do. After a moment, he wipes a tear that has escaped from his eye as he picks up the next paper in his stack.

McKENZIE FRYE wears a Boss coat, $695, and top, $895, hugoboss.com, and Alice & Olivia pants, $245, saks.com. JUAN CASTANO wears an Ermenegildo Zegna cardigan, $1,995, and pants, price on request, (212) 421-4488, Vince shirt, $195, vince.com, and stylist’s own belt. MICHAEL OLOYEDE wears a Z Zegna suit, $1,545, Ermenegildo Zegna shirt, $495, and Brunello Cucinelli tie, $225, brunellocucinelli.com. ANGELINA IMPELLIZZERI wears a Paul Smith jacket, $750, and pants, $395, paulsmith.com, and Boglioli polo, $400, (646) 870-8250.

Cover photograph by Todd Hido. Styled by Tracey Nicholson. Hair by Marki Shkreli using Marki. Grooming by Yui Ishibashi using MAC Cosmetics. Set design by Colin King. Photographed at United Palace Theater.

Digital tech: Michael O’Shea. Photo assistants: Jonathan Bumble and Paul Storey. Hair assistants: Yasu Nakamura, Natasha Taylor and Jenny Wimmerstedt. Makeup assistant: Evyta Soendoro. Stylist’s assistants: Sergio Mejia, Gabe Gutierrez and Susan Walsh. Tailoring: Martin Keen and Angie Bilotti.

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10 avr. 2019 To win back power, Democrats must do things that make them uncomfortable

JERRY BROWN, California’s governor, is once again pondering the decline of Western civilisation. Mr Brown is sitting in his San Francisco office, having spent part of the morning at a conference where business people were discussing how to use artificial intelligence to sell more cosmetics. “I’ve never heard the word ‘experience’ so often…the ‘make-up experience’…all that brain power, a massive mobilisation of talent and capital, and for what?” The governor will step down at the start of next year after a second two-term stint in Sacramento (his first was 1975-83), making him both the longest-serving governor in the state’s history and a reliquary of the changes the Democratic Party has undergone in the past half century.

In a state synonymous with cloudless skies, Mr Brown always seems to be expecting the next storm. He is something of a fiscal conservative, cutting spending and raising taxes, and will bequeath his state both a budget surplus and a full rainy-day fund when he goes. He was a serious environmentalist 30 years before protection of the environment became one of his party’s main purposes, and he was railing against the distorting effects of large campaign donations long before the Supreme Court’s Citizens United decision made that position fashionable on the left. But he is also the veteran of three failed presidential bids, proof that being correct in politics is not the same as winning.

Politicians are usually obliged to pretend that they can command the sea to part when they can really only surf on the waves. “The economy is the most important thing, and it’s the thing we can’t control,” muses Mr Brown. What they can do is be ready when a sufficient number of voters decide they want a change. At that point, the party or candidates who are not in power must be able to persuade people that they share their worries, are on their side and, at some level, are like them. Voting is partly an exercise in narcissism. People want to be able to look at a candidate and see something of themselves.

When your party does this, it is called empathy. When the other side tries, it is called identity politics. President Donald Trump’s hostility to immigrants who are not high-cheekboned Slovenian models suggests to a large number of white Americans that he cares about them and will put their interests ahead of other people’s. Democrats cannot do this kind of identity politics. What they can do, however, is avoid the wrong kind of identity politics. That would mean not speaking to the different bits of their mosaic coalition as if each had separate interests that are opposed to those of the population at large.

Because Democratic candidates are so aware of the need to bring a fragmented coalition together, their speeches can resemble lists, and any sizeable Democratic political event must feature speakers who are black, brown, white, male, female, gay, straight, natural-born citizens, immigrants and undocumented. The instinct behind this is noble: America is becoming more diverse and its future success depends on the acceptance of that.

But, whereas in the 1960s, identity politics on the left was about big issues such as free speech and racial segregation, now all too often it emphasises questions that affect very few people directly, such as transgender equality. The Democratic platform in 2016 contained 20 mentions of LGBT rights and almost no mention of illegal immigration. “There’s a whole set of parents in the country who just don’t get it,” says Lynn Vavreck of UCLA.

Democrats do not need to abandon small, vulnerable groups; but they cannot build a winning coalition out of them alone. Better identity politics requires playing down identity, not playing it up. “As a New Yorker, I am a Muslim. I am a Jew. I am black. I am gay,” Andrew Cuomo, the state’s governor, announced last year. “I am a woman seeking to control her body.” It would have been enough to say that everyone is welcome in New York, regardless of how they look, what they believe or whom they love, so long as they extend that tolerance to others. It ought to be possible to talk about the large numbers of black men murdered every year and the large numbers of rural whites dying of heroin overdoses in the same breath, as a sad waste of human potential, without getting into an argument over white privilege. It should also be possible to welcome into the party with equal passion women who are against abortion and those who oppose the president.

At its worst, putting identity first can become a way to close down debates that Democrats need to have. After supporters of Bernie Sanders were removed from key committees on the Democratic National Committee (DNC) in 2017, for reasons that really had to do with the senator from Vermont and his supporters speaking a language that many found too revolutionary, the DNC denied that it had retaliated against Mr Sanders’s allies, and said the changes were intended to increase diversity. The new additions included a black, millennial transgender woman and a child of undocumented migrants, as if the real problem with Mr Sanders’s people was that they were not oppressed or gender fluid enough. One Sanders supporter bruised by the experience describes this focus on oppression as “the misery Olympics”. The temptation to suggest that people’s views are a product of their skin colour, gender or sexuality is bad enough. As a principle for unifying a party as diverse as the Democratic Party, it is a disaster.

Many Democratic politicians deeply dislike what Mr Trump’s success reveals about their country. Yet in a political system where winning the popular vote does not necessarily result in gaining political power, they may need to wrap themselves in the flag and become as grounded in what Governor Brown calls “this Americana business” as the president is.

“Children do not respond well to scolding and neither do nations,” writes Mark Lilla in “The Once and Future Liberal”. “It just puts their backs up. They become better only when they are told they are already good and therefore can improve.” The spectacle of the president taking policy advice in the Oval Office from Kim Kardashian, a fellow star of reality TV, might convince Democrats that the demise of Western civilisation feared by Governor Brown is already here. They must put such thoughts aside and relearn the language of American civil religion: self-evident truths; a shining city upon a hill; life, liberty, the pursuit of happiness. And, above all, e pluribus unum: out of many, one.

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10 avr. 2019 LVMH : croissance organique de 15% pour Mode & Maroquinerie au premier trimestre

(AOF) - LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton a réalisé au premier trimestre 2019 des ventes de 12,5 milliards d’euros, en progression de 16 %. La croissance organique s’établit à 11%. Le trimestre poursuit les tendances observées en 2018. Toutes les zones géographiques connaissent de bonnes croissances. L’activité Mode & Maroquinerie réalise une croissance organique de 15 % à 5,111 milliards d’euros. Louis Vuitton continue sa remarquable progression. Dans les Parfums & Cosmétiques, la croissance organique des ventes s’établit à 9% pour des ventes de 1,697 milliard.

L’activité Vins & Spiritueux enregistre une croissance organique de 9 % de ses ventes à 1,349 milliard.

Le groupe d’activités Montres & Joaillerie enregistre au une croissance organique de 4 % de ses ventes (1,046 milliard), tirée par la performance de la joaillerie.

Dans la Distribution sélective, la croissance organique des ventes s’établit à 8% (3,51 milliards).

Dans un environnement porteur en ce début d’année, marqué cependant par un contexte géopolitique incertain, LVMH continuera à concentrer ses efforts sur la mise en valeur de ses marques, maintiendra une stricte maîtrise des coûts et ciblera ses investissements sur la qualité, l’excellence et l’innovation de ses produits et de leur distribution.

  • Leader mondial du luxe, notamment dans le champagne, le cognac et la maroquinerie, l’un des leaders mondiaux dans la mode, les parfums et les cosmétiques et numéro trois dans la joaillerie et l’horlogerie ;

  • Positions concurrentielles très solides avec 70 maisons de luxe (Louis Vuitton, leader mondial incontesté, au taux de croissance et à la rentabilité exceptionnels, Moët Hennessy, Dior, Céline Givenchy, Guerlain, Kenzo, Bulgari, TagHeuer…) ;

  • Contrôle étroit des canaux de distribution avec un réseau mondial de près de 4 400 magasins, dont DFS en Asie, puis Miami Cruise, Sephora et Le Bon Marché ;

  • Diversification dans l’hôtellerie, d’abord en France sous la marque Cheval Blanc, puis en Bulgarie et, récemment, avec l’offre sur le groupe Belmont, présent dans 24 pays, également présent dans les croisières et les trains de luxe ;

  • Marge opérationnelle maintenue autour de 20 % malgré un contexte économique défavorable au luxe ;

  • Situation financière très saine avec un cash flow de près de 5 Mds€, un ratio d’endettement de 24 % d’où la générosité envers les actionnaires (hausse annuelle de 12 % du dividende sur les 5 dernières années.

  • Impact négatif de la parité euro contre les autres monnaies, compensé par les hausses de prix ;

  • Montée en puissance du " marché gris “, fondé sur les écarts de prix entre l’Europe et l’Asie ;

  • Forte concurrence dans les marchés de la joaillerie et des montres ;

  • Déséquilibre des rentabilités entre branches, la maroquinerie apportant plus de 60 % des bénéfices du groupe avec une marge opérationnelle de près de 32 % ;

  • Volatilité accrue en raison des exigences à l’égard d’une valeur dans les tous premiers rangs du CAC 40 par sa capitalisation.

  • Corrélation de l’activité aux flux touristiques et forte saisonnalité des ventes traditionnellement élevées en fin d’année ;

  • Distribution avec service d’acompte ;

  • Sensibilité boursière aux déclarations des autres dirigeants du luxe ;

  • Evolution des activités Mode & Maroquinerie et Vins & Spiritueux qui assurent les 3/4 de la rentabilité opérationnelle ;

  • Capital verrouillé par le groupe familial Arnault (46,8 % du capital, directement et indirectement et les 2/3 des droits de vote).

Luxe et cosmétiques

Les partenariats entre les géants du luxe et les acteurs du digital se multiplient, les premiers cherchant à s’adapter aux évolutions du comportement des consommateurs, notamment en Chine. Le cabinet Bain & Co prévoit que les achats en ligne, qui représentent aujourd’hui 9% du marché mondial du luxe, représenteront 25 % d’ici à 2025. Ynap, la plate-forme de commerce en ligne de Richemont, va lancer deux applications mobiles avec Alibaba pour cibler la jeune clientèle locale en Chine. Il y a quelques mois, le groupe avait annoncé le rachat de Watchfinder, un site d’achat et de revente de montres de luxe d’occasion. Il avait auparavant pris le contrôle de la plate-forme Yoox Net-a-Porter. Chanel, est, lui, entré au capital du britannique Farfetch, une plate-forme de vente de produits de luxe. Quant à LVMH, il a pris une participation dans Lyst, un moteur de recherche dédié à la mode, après avoir ouvert la plate-forme internet 24 Sèvres.

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10 avr. 2019 The Rise of G-Beauty

K-Beauty got us hooked on Korean BB Creams and jelly cleansers. J-Beauty convinced us of the benefits of Japanese essences and sake ingredients. Probably we were bound to grab our beauty passports and move on to another country. And so we did: Now there’s G-Beauty.

In the last few years, German beauty brands have begun to inhabit nearly every beauty aisle, including Whole Foods and high-end beauty retailers like Bluemercury.

But unlike, say, K-Beauty, which started as a concerted effort by the Korean government to market Korean brands abroad, G-Beauty is less about pushing novel routines than it is about making clean beauty – a confusing space with many conflicting definitions – more approachable.

“Our customers like that Germany beauty follows the European standards for clean, which automatically means they don’t include many toxins,” said Jessica Richards, the founder of the influential Brooklyn boutique Shen Beauty. German brands also tend to have fairly minimalist, straightforward packaging, which is a good thing in today’s noisy beauty aisles.

Cassandra Grey, the founder of Violet Grey, a luxury beauty retailer in Los Angeles, is even more emphatic. “Customers now look for the Made in Germany stamp on skin-care products the same way we look for the organic sticker on our tomatoes,” she said. The three top-selling skin-care lines at her shop are from Germany.

In German beauty, clean, efficacious skin care can mean taking a farm-based, organic approach, as is the case with Weleda, a natural skin-care pioneer with Swiss-German roots that was founded in 1921; and Dr. Hauschka, a natural skin care and cosmetics line that has been around since 1967. Both have had decades to build out their biodynamic farms, labs and manufacturing processes.

“We have a lot of control over our ingredients, which is key for a natural beauty brand,” said Rob Keen, the chief executive of Weleda North America. “You don’t know where some of these companies are getting their naturals from.”

Weleda is experiencing a resurgence in the United States and gaining a cultish following for its classic Skin Food moisturizer ($18.99), a staple for many top makeup artists and, InStyle reports, for Rihanna, Julia Roberts, Victoria Beckham and more.

Last year, sales in the United States were up 19 percent, Mr. Keen said. (According to the market researchers Spins and Nielsen, German natural personal-care brands are up 13 percent in the United States compared with 11 percent for all natural personal-care brands.)

And while the German government is not helping its companies market abroad, “the country truly does support biodynamic farming and this idea of sustainability,” said Martina Joseph, the chief executive of Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. “If you look across many different categories and businesses in Germany, it’s about quality and ingredient integrity.”

For the most demanding clientele, though, the exciting brands are the ones that offer not only clean formulations, but also new science. That includes such German skin-care darlings as Augustinus Bader, Dr. Barbara Sturm and Royal Fern.

Timm Golueke, the dermatologist in Munich who is behind Royal Fern, thinks of his line, which includes an ingredient patented from fern extract, as “marrying wellness with German engineering.”

He points out that German brands are particularly transparent. The packaging is clear, the ingredients are laid out simply, and claims are backed up with science (in his case, his patent and decades seeing patients as a dermatologist).

“The patients I see in London and in Germany, they want the same thing,” Dr. Golueke said. “They want skin care that works, but they also want things to be nontoxic. That’s what German brands are building trust in.”

As a retailer, Marla Beck, the co-founder and chief executive of Bluemercury, has bought in. “German beauty is known for science-backed, clean formulas that deliver highly effective results,” she said, noting her particular admiration for the Dr. Barbara Sturm Brightening Serum, which features cress sprouts extract as well as shimmer particles that give a glow. (Bluemercury is the largest retailer of the Dr. Barbara Sturm line in the United States.)

Ms. Beck also mentioned the high quality of the ingredients, especially important when customers are shelling out $310 for said brightening serum.

Barbara Sturm, an aesthetic medical doctor in Düsseldorf, became the talk of social media for creating custom-blended creams with blood drawn from the patient. She created her highly regarded line based on the philosophy of eliminating all damaging ingredients.

“Clean beauty, which I take to mean nontoxic, nonirritating and noninflammatory, is at the center of my approach to healing the skin,” Dr. Sturm said.

Then there is the professor and scientist Augustinus Bader, who founded his namesake skin-care line two years ago. According to the company, it closed out last year with $6 million in revenue with just two products (moisturizers called the Cream and the Rich Cream). In February the company appointed a new chief executive, Maureen Case, a veteran of Estée Lauder, and has plans to introduce a new product this summer.

Dr. Bader, who has serious science credentials in stem cell research, took years to develop the two products. He approached his formulas from an epigenetics point of view – that is, using ingredients to stimulate repair signals inside the body.

“The stem cells, they work, but they work too slowly,” Dr. Bader said. “I thought, ‘How can we use the body’s own repair mechanisms?’ We have some inner clock as our skin ages that shuts down the repair mechanisms. My idea here is you can jump-start skin healing with the right triggers.”

“It’s a different form of treatment,” he said.

A last thought from Dr. Sturm, who, for all of her momentum, cautioned that G-Beauty is a marketing concept and that nationality doesn’t tell you if a product is “clean.” “Skin care is not the Olympics,” she said.

Bee Shapiro - The New York Times
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10 avr. 2019 Industrial cannabis is booming in China

T plant has a storied history in China. It was probably twisted into the world’s first rope there around 2,800. In the West you find it in cigarette paper and Bible pages. In the East, it is woven into uniforms of the People’s Liberation Army (). Since its cooler sister, marijuana, became legal for recreational use in Canada and many American states last year, industrial-use hemp – a variety of cannabis that contains trivial amounts of weed’s mind-altering substance, – is flourishing in a country that until a few years ago banned its cultivation outright and where cannabis traffickers can face the death penalty.

China grows nearly half the world’s legal hemp. In 2018 sales, mostly of textile fibre made from the plant’s stalk, totalled $1.2bn. Now global demand for its seeds, leaves and flowers is surging. Packed with fulsome fatty acids, seeds go into snacks and oil. Leaves and flowers contain cannabidiol (), a non-intoxicating compound that reduces anxiety and inflammation. It is being added as a supplement to food, drinks and cosmetics across the West. In June America approved the first medicine, for epilepsy.

China’s first licence to extract went to Hanma Investment Group, owner of its largest hemp planter and processor, in January 2017. By next year, estimates New Frontier Data, a cannabis consultancy, Chinese sales of will more than quadruple to $228m. Investors are rushing into the field. A Chinese hemp index tracked since 2018 by Wind Information, a data provider, has more than doubled in value this year. Shares in Shanghai Shunho New Materials Technology, a packaging firm, rose threefold after it received a licence to plant hemp in south-western Yunnan, the first province to lift a national ban in 2010. Shineco, a biotech company whose market capitalisation on New York’s Nasdaq exchange has nearly doubled to $25m since it unveiled a hemp subsidiary last month, plans China’s largest industrial-cannabis project in frosty Heilongjiang.

That north-eastern province became the second to legalise hemp-growing in 2017, issuing a three-year plan to become the biggest cannabis base in the world by 2020. In its inaugural year, Heilongjiang harvested 30,000 hectares (74,000 acres) of hemp – nearly one-third the size of European and Canadian fields combined. Neighbouring Jilin province, too, will soon earn a licence.

Chinese growers are already setting their sights farther afield. In December America legalised industrial hemp nationwide for the first time since the second world war. Hanma ships more than half its domestic output there. Tan Xin, chairman of Hanma, says he will begin to grow and process hemp in Nevada later this year. American hemp has higher levels than China permits.

On March 27th the anti-drugs squad declared that China had never approved industrial cannabis as a medical or food additive; the hemp index briefly drooped. Mr Tan expects China’s government to tighten monitoring, while gradually allowing wider application of the plant’s by-products. Factories in China are also closely monitored with cameras and workers are subjected to daily urine tests. But Hanma has teamed up with the to develop a -based drug to treat post-traumatic stress. That will be the next chapter in the plant’s long history in China. During the long years of the hemp ban Yunnan’s ethnic minorities continued in secret to harvest leaves, stalks and seeds. Today they can earn farmers 50,000 yuan ($7,400) per hectare, at least twice as much as corn.

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