The first public alert came from a study conducted by French researchers published in March 2024, relayed in June by a press release from the French National Academy of Medicine.
In a communication dated 16 October 2024, the French Anses says that since the beginning of the year, it had received four reports of acute kidney failure following the application of “Brazilian smoothing products” containing glyoxylic acid, as part of the national cosmetovigilance system.
It points out that the people intoxicated recovered following treatment.

The Agnce stresses that it took up the case itself as soon as the first case was analysed, in order to take stock of the current state of knowledge on the renal toxicity of glyoxylic acid in hair application. Its assessment of the case is intended to document a proposal for changes to European regulatory provisions in order to provide an appropriate framework for the use of this substance, which is not currently restricted in cosmetic products.

Pending the conclusions of this expert report, the Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes (Directorate-General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Control - DGCCRF) and the Direction Générale de la …