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Cosmetic Days - Sun protection
Friday, August 17, 2012Ingredients

Ecocert suspends the ZinClear approval

©L'Observatoire des Cosmétiques

Are there nanoparticles in the ZinClear IM 500CCT, a sunscreen marketed by the Australian company Antaria, as whistle-blown by the Australian branch of Friends of the Earth association? Widely used in sunscreens, especially in organic ones, this cosmetic raw material was yet approved by the certification body Ecocert. It has reconsidered its position.

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CosmeticOBS-L’Observatoire des Cosmétiques has released a paper on this topic on 25 July 2012 : the Friends of the Earth association stated that the “nanoparticles-free” claim on some sunscreens is deceitful, when they contain Zinc Oxide known as ZinClear IM 50CCT. Their analyses had detected traces of nanomaterial in these sunscreens, while the raw material’s supplier claimed it as “without nano-particles.”

The story of an approval

As of 2008, Ecocert has introduced in its reference frame the principle to ban nano-particles in cosmetic products. This position was  taken on behalf of the principle of precaution: indeed, the nanomaterials could be a safety hazard to the health personnel during manufacturing as well as to users when applied, as nanos are able to go through the cutaneous barrier and enter the body.

Ecocert approval of an ingredient that could contain some is based on the supplier providing a “nano-free” certificate. This is the standard procedure for a non vegetable (hence, non-organic) raw material, which the certification body does not audit. On the other hand, the manufacturer shall give the assurance that its product will not be liable to the [nano] labelling enforced in 2013 by the new European Regulation.

“Currently, we cannot …

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