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Monday, April 24, 2023Ingredients

Luteana: the first ingredient that rebalances and soothes sensitive skin with an integrative approach

Luteana : le premier ingrédient qui rééquilibre et apaise les peaux sensibles avec une approche intégrative

Microphyt, a leader in natural ingredients with high added value derived from microalgae, has come up with LuteanaTM, a new solution for sensitive skin. This innovative cosmetic active ingredient targets the latest research in the field of sensitive skin: the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system.

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Sensitive skin is not a minor problem; this disorder affects half of the world’s population and can occur in men or women alike.
The phenomenon is triggered by cutaneous hyperreactivity to external stress factors (excessive use of soap, weather conditions, repeated micro-rubbing) or internal factors (variations in hormone levels).
Recurrent symptoms experienced by people with sensitive skin include itching, burning, redness and prickling.
The chronic and multi-faceted nature of sensitive skin complicates the approach. Conventional soothing strategies consequently achieve short-term results (at best) or unsatisfactory results.

Microphyt therefore drew inspiration from recent research, particularly on the identification of a new mechanism: the neuro-immuno-cutaneous system (NIC). The term “NIC” points to the existence of multiple interactions between skin cells (keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts), nerve fibers and immune cells.
The NIC system thus perceives various stimuli from our environment and transmits them to the central nervous system. These exchanges involve precision mechanics: in the case of sensitive skin, a hyperactivity of this cellular trio caused by repeated stress creates an imbalance in the network which leads to sensitive skin.

Drawing on its expertise in microalgae, Microphyt developed a new active ingredient that can sustainably soothe sensitive skin.

Tisochrysis lutea, a golden Tahitian microalgae with remarkable adaptability.

The unique microalgae, Tisochrysis lutea, lives in an idyllic-looking environment off the coast of Tahiti, in French Polynesia.
Despite its thin wall and its fragility, its powerful metabolism has enabled it to adapt over the centuries to survive in its hostile environment: strong UV radiation, high temperatures, high salinity and acidity.

Figure 1: French Polynesia (left); Tisochrysis lutea (right) (x 800)

LuteanaTM, a sustainably extracted active ingredient that is rich in active molecules.

Thanks to its exclusive, unique photobioreactor technology, which makes it possible to cultivate microalgae in the best conditions, together with an optimum extraction process, Microphyt developed LuteanaTM, an active ingredient with a standardized fucoxanthin content.
This bioactive molecule belonging to the carotenoid family has proven its activity on the three types of NIC cells: it has a neuroprotective and anti-inflammatory effect (Zaho et al., 2017), it regulates inflammatory imbalances (Natsume et al.,2020), and it activates the natural homoeostasis of skin cells (Travares et al.,2020).
This active ingredient also contains polyunsaturated fatty acids from the omega-3 and phytosterol family.

LuteanaTM, the first comprehensive solution to rebalance and soothe sensitive skin

Several scientific trials (in-vitro and clinical) have been conducted and have proven the effectiveness of LuteanaTM:
• Reduces chronic skin inflammation
• Reduces neuronal hyperactivity
• Restores the NIC network and neuronal homoeostasis
• Activates endogenous receptors which soothe the skin (Figure 2)

Figure 2: LuteanaTM increases MOR (mu opioid receptor) expression by +278%**** as the opioid receptors activate the skin’s natural soothing effect

Significance: ****<0.0001

Protocol: co-cultures of keratinocytes and human sensory neurons exposed to stress (AITC and/or capsaicin). Immunolabeling of mu opioid receptors (MOR). LuteanaTM is tested at 0.05%.

The 14-day clinical trial conducted on volunteers who suffer from sensitive skin and consider themselves stressed showed that LuteanaTM:
• Reduces skin inflammation
• Reduces skin sensitivity
• Boosts the barrier function
• Improves well-being and reduces itching

Figure 3: LuteanaTMreduces the vascular component

Protocol: clinical trial conducted on women with sensitive skin and exposed to stress. Two applications per day of a cream with 0.5% LuteanaTM or the placebo for 14 days. Measurement of the vascular component.

Technical data:

• INCI: on request from Microphyt
• Standard compound: fucoxanthin
• Preservative: none
• COSMOS: approved
• Naturalness (ISO 16128): 100% natural origin
• Recommended use: 0.5%
• Appearance: oil-soluble liquid

For more information: contact@microphyt.eu

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