For a long time, organic cosmetics has been protected from the climate of mistrust that has developed among consumers regarding the safety of cosmetic ingredients. This is no longer the case today, far from it. Nanoparticles, titanium dioxide, sulphated surfactants, preservatives… are on the spot like petrochemical or synthetic ingredients. ...

Some raw materials used in cosmetic products are victims of a real witch hunt, rightly or wrongly. This crisis of confidence is forcing the industry to review its formulation methods and turn to more naturalness. During the JEST 2019, organized by Cosmed on September 27th in Montpellier, Sabrina Pappatico, development manager at ...

On 4 October 2019, the European Commission adopted the Delegated Regulation amending for the 14th time the CLP Regulation on classification, labelling and packaging of substances and mixtures. In particular, this text provides for the addition of Titanium dioxide to its Annex VI, as a category 2 carcinogen by inhalation for mixtures placed on the market ...

During its first “Ingredients Meeting” devoted to raw materials that can be used in COSMOS-certified formulas, the Cosmébio association also granted, for the first time, its Ingredients Awards. Two new active ingredients have been distinguished for their innovative aspect and the sensory properties they bring to natural and organic cosmetics.

ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) has just announced that its Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) has concluded on the harmonised classification of 15 substances. Among them, three (including Methyl Salicylate or Citric Acid) may be used in cosmetic products, and two are subject to a classification as CMR2 that eventually may lead to a ban ...

The RIFM (Research Institute for Fragrance Materials), an international scientific body that assesses the safety of raw materials used in perfumes, has just published its conclusions on Methyl 2-Octynoate, one of the 26 allergens subject to mandatory labelling in cosmetics. Experts’ conclusion: the substance is safe.

2019 is the year of algae for Codif. After presenting two new active ingredients from marine resources at the in-cosmetics 2019 exhibition, the French company has just announced the launch of Cywhite, an ingredient designed to homogenize the complexion and made from Arc-en-Ciel seaweed.

The organic cosmetics sector is booming. Market growth has exceeded 20% over 2016 and 2017 and the number of brands continues to grow. The demand for ingredients of natural origin is therefore also expected to increase in the coming years. To understand all the challenges this represents for the sector, Cosmebio is organizing a day ...

Silab Softcare research teams have demonstrated the clinical efficacy of fructosans from Ophiopogon japonicus in the reduction of flares of atopic dermatitis in Caucasian patients. This clinical study has just been published in the journal Acta Dermato-Venereologica, following a peer-review process by experts in the field.

On September 3, 2019, the French government presented a second national strategy on endocrine disruptors to reduce population exposure and environmental contamination. It is announced as aiming “to reduce the population’s exposure to endocrine disrupters and environmental contamination through research and expertise, public information, training of professionals and better regulatory framework.”

Plastics are present just about everywhere in the human environment nowadays. Global production of plastic is growing and more and more plastics end up in the environment. That this topic has an effect on aquatic ecosystems has been known for a long time. There is currently a lot of public ...

A start-up company Naturbeads, based at the University of Bath (UK), is working with companies to replace microplastics in cosmetics products with biodegradable microbeads made from cellulose. Naturbeads has been awarded funding by a partnership between UK Research and Innovation (UKRI) and Sky Ocean Ventures (SOV), through the Plastic Research ...

The SCCS has published its Opinion on the safety of a hair dye ingredient, Methylimidazoliumpropyl p-phenylenediamine HCl (A166). This Opinion has been adopted by written procedure on 29 July 2019, and is opened to comments until 21 October 2019.

The safety of three coatings for Zinc Oxide in its nano form will be assessed by the SCCS. The request was made by the European Commission and published on 19 August 2019. The Scientific Committee accepted this mandate by written procedure on 29 July 2019.

Previously authorised without restrictions (only HICC is subject to labelling requirements), three allergens are now banned from use: Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (HICC), as well as Atranol and Chloroatranol, two components of Evernia prunastri oak mosses and Evernia furacea tree mosses. This prohibition stems from the publication of Regulation 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017. It began to ...

ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) has just announced that its Risk Assessment Committee (RAC) has concluded on the harmonised classification of 10 substances. Among them, four (including phenoxyethanol) may be used in cosmetic products, and one (Methylene di-t-butylcresol) is subject to a classification as CMR (Repr. 1B) due to its effects on fertility that ...

The European Commission having concluded that the framework of Regulation 1223/2009 was sufficient to manage the risk that endocrine disruptors may represent in cosmetics, one might be tempted to bury their heads in the sand and ignore the fact that there can be a problem. But we also know that some substances ...

On 27 May 2019, the OECD added two new opuses to its series on the safety of manufactured nanomaterials. These Nos. 90 and 91 are intended to facilitate the identification of the most relevant parameters and best available methods for ensuring data and reporting quality, and focus on physico-chemical information.

Solabia Group announced that it has acquired Algatech Ltd., a global leader in the development, cultivation and commercialisation of ingredients delivered from microalgae and used by leading food supplement, food and cosmetic brands worldwide. The acquisition represents a growing awareness of the opportunities presented by microalgae-based products, which is currently ...

Peaked face, dull complexion or a tired face are all skin issues that consumers face. To provide solutions, Codif focused on the internal functioning of the cells. At in-cosmetics 2019, the ingredient supplier unveiled its latest innovation: an algae-based active ingredient that fights cell senescence and therefore signs of fatigue.

On May 3, 2019, Health Canada opened a consultation on several updates of the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist. In the scope: the authorisation of Dihydrocoumarin and Thiurames which were previously prohibited, the mandatory labelling of a warning statement for eucalyptus essential oil, the prohibition of Sodium Bromate and new conditions of use for ...

Water is an essential component in the formulation of a large majority of cosmetics… but it is also a resource that is becoming rare and precious. To limit its use, and therefore preserve it, Seppic has created a collection of water from algae. The ingredient supplier presented this new product ...

Whether out of respect for nature, for his health or both, the consumer wants to know what his cosmetics are made of. There is no longer any question of taking the consumer for a fool in view of the multiple sources allowing to decipher (correctly or not) an INCI list. ...

True stars of the 2019 edition of the in-cosmetics exhibition, algae have invited themselves to many stands of ingredient suppliers. This is the case of Agrimer, a Breton family company specialising in the transformation of marine resources into ingredients or active ingredients, which presented its latest innovation at the show: Fusion Gel.

The beauty industry is redoubling its imagination to formulate ever more responsible products. This is where the valuation of resources that are usually discarded comes in. This trend, also known as up-cycling, is gaining the heart of more and more ingredient suppliers for even greater sustainability. Some of them, such ...

JRC scientists have developed, together with partners from the NanoDefine project, a unique categorisation scheme which matches material properties with the capabilities of techniques for particle size measurement. This technique was published in the Journal Nanoscale Advance.

This is the second consecutive year that Cosmed organize a congress dedicated to essential oils. For the 2019 edition, industrialists and health professionals are expected in Avignon on July 4 and 5, in order to control the design, claims and prescription of products based on essential oils.

At in-cosmetics, Gattefossé presented one of its new products: Emulium® Illustro. It is a water-in-oil emulsifier particularly suitable for pigments with applications in products such as make-up or sunscreen. Presented in the “Innovation zone” of the 2019 edition of the in-cosmetics exhibition, it received first prize in the category “best functional ingredient”.

Every year, in-cosmetics brings together thousands of visitors curious to discover the latest innovations from ingredient suppliers. The 2019 edition had its share of beautiful surprises. A brief summary of the new features that caught the eye of the editorial staff of the Observatoire des Cosmétiques.

The European Parliament voted in favour of this resolution on 18 April 2019 by an overwhelming majority. Considering that “there is no valid reason to postpone effective regulation,” MEPs ask the Commission to make, by June 2020 at the latest, legislative proposals to insert specific provisions for endocrine disruptors, similar to those applicable to CMRs, into ...

Can we still talk about a trend when we talk about sustainability in cosmetics? For some years now, consumers have been letting consumers know that they want products that are good, healthy and safe for themselves and the planet. This request has not fallen on deaf ears since a large ...

In a press release dated 17 April 2019, the French Government announced the suspension of the placing on the market of foodstuffs containing titanium dioxide as from 1 January 2020. An decree must be published “as soon as possible”, and will be notified to the European Commission for examination of the measure by the other EU ...

Algae are widespread in the food industry and are gaining more and more ground in the beauty sector. They come from all over the world and compete with each other for cosmetic benefits. Ingredient suppliers are tearing them apart. As proof, they were the stars of many of the stands ...

Will the authorisation to use titanium dioxide (TiO2) be suspended by the French government? Following the publication of the new ANSES report, which concludes that a lack of scientific data does not make it possible to remove uncertainties about its safety, the hypothesis seems likely, at least for the food ...

On April 2, in-cosmetics Global 2019 presented its awards for the best ingredients. Each year, they identify the most innovative active and functional ingredients launched over the past six months. They also saw green, sensory and make-up innovations highlighted. Presentation of the main ones, in texts and images!

On March 20, 2019, the ANSM issued a DPS (Décision de Police Sanitaire - Health Police Decision) to require manufacturers of leave-on cosmetic products containing Phenoxyethanol to indicate on the label that they cannot be used on the buttocks of children under three years of age. This decision, which was given nine ...

By a Health Police Decision of 13 March 2019, published on the ANSM website on 20 March, the French National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products requires manufacturers of leave-on cosmetic products containing the preservative Phenoxyethanol to indicate on the label that they may not be used on the buttocks of children ...

The cosmetics industry’s interest in the skin microbiota has already been strong in recent years. The trend was further confirmed at the Cosmetagora exhibition, held in Paris on 15 and 16 January 2019: many exhibitors proposed new ingredients to influence the balance or regulation of the microbiota, and to meet cosmetic claims as diverse as ...

Among the main trends identified at Cosmétagora, held in Paris on 15 and 16 January 2019: the fight against the effects of blue light on the skin. Many exhibitors offered cosmetic raw materials designed for this purpose, all with protection claims and anti-ageing effects. Presentation of some of them.

On 30 January 2019, ECHA (European Chemicals Agency) published three proposals for restrictions on substances used in cosmetics. They concern microplastics, formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing agents, as well as siloxanes D4, D5 and D6. The European Commission should now present within three months draft restrictions for these substances under the REACH Regulation.

The idea is widespread that there are currently insufficient analytical methods available to characterize nanomaterials and adequately address the requirement for labelling of nano-ingredients in cosmetic products. An idea that Georges Favre, Director of the LNE Nanotech Institute, wanted to break new ground at the 16th Cosmetic Valley Perfumes and Cosmetics ...

The Cosmétagora exhibition was held in Paris on 15 and 16 January 2019. Among its 170 exhibitors, many of them offered cosmetic raw materials based on the natural trend, which is increasingly present and is becoming a prerequisite in all categories of ingredients, functional or active. Presentation of a few of them.