Monday, January 20, 2020Ingredients news

Risk assessment of poly- and perfluoroalkylated substances in cosmetic products

Substances poly- et perfluoroalkylées dans les produits cosmétiques

Poly- and perfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), also known as fluoroalkyl, are an important group of substances used in a wide range of cosmetic products. Polyfluoroalkylated compounds are fluorinated compounds having one or more carbons in the carbon chain completely substituted by fluorine atoms. If all the carbons in the alkyl chain are substituted with fluorine atoms, they are called perfluoroalkyl [1]. Lighting from Expertox.

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PFAS should not be confused with water-soluble inorganic fluoride salts: sodium fluoride (NaF) or sodium monofluorophosphate (Na2PO3F), which are used in toothpastes to strengthen tooth enamel. These substances do not fall within the definition of perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl.
Within perfluoroalkyles, a subgroup can be defined by the nature of the functional group to which they are attached. Among them are perfluorinated acids, one of the best-known subfamilies of which is perfluorinated alkyl carboxylates (PFCAs), which have a carboxylic acid function at the end of the carbon chain. PFOA or perfluorooctanoic acid is one of them. It is considered to be the reference for the group of perfluoalkyl acids.

PFAS are used in cosmetics as skin care agents allowing products to penetrate more easily, making the skin shinier… They are found in many products such as foundations, moisturizers, eye shadows, powders, lipsticks, shaving creams, etc.
They are found under the INCI nomenclatures:
• C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate
• PEG-10 Dimethicone
• Perfluoronononyl Dimethicone
• Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane
• PTFE
• Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluoroethyl PEG Phosphate
• Ammonium C6-16 Perfluoroalkyl Ethyl Phosphate

These compounds can be used as cosmetic ingredients, but can also be present as degradation products of fluorinated molecules or as production impurities. …

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