A recent French study, published in the Journal Annales de Dermatologie et de Vénéréologie - FMC, scrutinised the INCI lists of cosmetics used in dermatology. The results: only 15% of them were free of ingredients of concern to the target population.
The team of researchers started from the observation that certain ingredients used in cosmetics recommended by dermatologists, in association with medical treatments, may present risks to which their patients are particularly sensitive.
They specifically targeted substances of concern for human health (SCH), the environment (SCE), allergens and fragrances.
Methodology
The INCI lists of 316 specialities marketed as emollients, healing agents and cleansers by partner laboratories at recent dermatology congresses were analysed between 1 February 2024 and 1 April 2024.
An ingredient was classified :
• SCH if it was designated as carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic as described by the French National Institute for Research and Safety (INRS) or if it was present in the European list of endocrine disruptors (EDs) or in the list of substances of very high concern (SVHCs) in the European REACH Regulation
• SCE if it was classified as dangerous for the environment by the INRS (CLP Regulation)
• Allergen if it was listed on the Redival-Gerda standard and addition batteries or on the list of 26 labellable fragrance allergens
Certain widely used ingredients such as titanium dioxide and phenoxyethanol, which are the subject of conflicting opinions, have been included as a precautionary measure.
A total of …
