When linked to lipids, peptides enter the stratum corneum more easily. This promising active ingredient is among the most exciting cosmetic anti-aging launches of this period … A focus on this week’s novelties, by Ariane Le Febvre.
A lipopeptide is a fat (a lipid) linked to a peptide, which always comprises several amino-acids: 2, 3, 4 or more … When there are two, it is a dipeptide. With three, it is a tripeptide, etc.
Penetration (hence, their efficiency) of peptides is optimized when they are combined with lipids that act as a carrier. Released in the extra-cellular environment, lipopeptides increase the bio-availability of the peptides, which, thus, can go to their biological target more easily.
Toning, anti-glycation, DNA protectors, smoothing or anti-wrinkles, lipopeptides are found in the most innovative anti-aging launches of this autumn:
• Avène, from November (new YsthéAL formulations: Dry Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream, 30 mL, €27; Normal to Combination Skin Anti-Wrinkle Emulsion, 30 mL, €27; Eye and Lip Contour Care, 15 mL, €24,
• La Prairie, in October (Skin Caviar Luxe Sleep Mask, 50 mL, €264, at the same time a mask and a night cream),
• Filorga, launched in May 2013 (Deep-Fill, Deep Wrinkle Soothing Treatment, high precision pen, 10 mL, €39).
Avène has developed an anti-glycation lipopeptide: Glycyl Glycine Oleamide (O.G.G. - INCI name: Oleoyl dipeptide-15 and Oleoyl tetrapeptide-31), which protects the entire cutaneous elastic capital (collagen and elastin), while stimulating the cellular …
