The Orientals gave birth to the greatest perfumes in the history of perfumery: Shalimar (Guerlain), the inventor of the genre, Coco Mademoiselle or Coco Noir (Chanel), Opium (Yves Saint Laurent), Youth Dew (Estée Lauder), Angel (Thierry Mugler), Habanita (Molinard)… But this rich and opulent family needed to be revisited to seduce a younger audience. It's done this fall! The perfumers took them out of the naphthalene and, if you had the impression to breathe them to see your great-aunt emerge, there is no more any more risk of this kind with the neo-orientals! The latter retain the codes and the frame (power of diffusion, presence of vanilla or mandatory patchouli (the combination of patchouli and vanilla transports illico in the East) and more and more oud wood, contrast between a fresh and citrusy opening and warm and persistent base notes. But they have been dusted of their old accents and lightened of their heaviest and most heady facets. Enriched with new gourmand, fruity or luminous notes, they become ultra contemporary. All generations can rediscover these concentrates of femininity with their fascinating seductive power and unforgettable imprint. In a 2015 version with more modern writing.

Flower orientals

This is the most important family. There is Shalimar Souffle de Parfum Limited Series by Guerlain (Eau de parfum, 50 ml, 98 €), a more aerial version of the mythical oriental. Refreshed with orange blossom water absolute and coated with white musks, it is presented for Christmas in a collector bottle illustrating the Shalimar gardens. Note the absolute novelty of orange blossom water that reinforces the floral trail and gives a honeyed effect to the fragrance. This absolute comes from two stages: distillation to produce floral water, then extraction to obtain the precious absolute. The 2015 technologies make it possible to purify raw materials and treat them with maximum naturality, as close as possible to flowers, woods or spices. Thus, the molecular distillation of patchouli rid it of its earthy, slightly"mouldy" appearance.

By combining bergamot, rose, tonka bean and a unique note of rose geranium leaf, Chanel has created a truly modern oriental (Coco Noir, eau de parfum in a new 35 ml format, 71 €).

Must de Cartier Gold (Eau de parfum, 50 ml, 89 € or 100 ml, 125 €) is the first green oriental that dares a high concentration of jasmine and vanilla, undertended with herbaceous galbanum.

The new elixir The One Essence from Dolce&Gabbana (40 ml, 89 € or 65 ml, 119 €) is the highest concentration of The One fragrance. One finds there litchi, peach and white flowers (with a hypnotic lily in majesty), sublimated by the plant richness of the amber resins and the sweetness of vanilla.

L'Absolu, eau de parfum is also the most intense of Carven fragrances (30 ml, 50 € ; 50 ml, 70 € ; 100 ml, 90 €). It sums up the perfect incarnation of the floral oriental: a sparkling opening of green mandarin essence, a bouquet of white flowers (ylang ylang, jasmine, tuberose), a clearly oriental trail (patchouli, sandalwood, cistus absolute…).

As for Trésor Midnight Rose Élixir d'Orient by Lancôme (Eau de parfum, 75 ml, 118 €), this tasty nectar is governed by Damascena rose absolute, oud wood, wild raspberry and blackcurrant bud. In a bottle that evokes a moucharabieh.

The madness of the oud

The mythical essence of the Orient, the oud has been the object of a real cult for several years already, especially among the populations of the Middle East. As a reminder, oud wood is in fact a very odorous resin that the tree produces over the years in response to an attack (it is infected by a fungus). The transformation of this one into essential oil requires time: two months of maceration in water before being distilled during six to seven days. After distillation, the oud wood resin gives a woody, leathery, balsamic, warm and animal essence. Its fragrances are incomparably powerful. What can be considered the most carnal natural ingredient of perfumery is used in fumigations by Arab princesses to perfume their clothes. Due to the growing interest in this wood, prices are soaring. It is worth recalling that this material is classified as an endangered and now protected species (the cutting of planted trees is subject to authorization, as is distillation). After having seen it bloom in many very private, luxurious and confidential collections (at Dior, Acqua di Parma, Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, By Kilian… not yet at Chanel nor Serge Lutens, yet the king of oriental scents but surely eager not to do like everyone else), here it is democratizing.

It can be found at L'Occitane (Oud et Rose Collection de Grasse, its most expensive eau de parfum : 75 ml, 70 €) or Yves Rocher (Rose Oud, Secrets d'Essences, eau de parfum, 50 ml, 69,80 €). The latter combines it with the spicy tonalities of cumin and amber labdanum. In addition, to ensure a sustainable resource, the brand works with a Laotian company, directly linked to family plantations, in an integrated and rational management approach.

Almost inseparable from the rose with which it blends so well (this blend irresistibly evokes the Orient), it can still be found in 1001 Ouds Les Absolus by Annick Goutal (Eau de parfum, 75 ml, 195 €). This whole collection, which still has two perfumes (Ambre Sauvage and Vanille Charnelle), speaks to us of the Orient.

As in Oud Saphir Metal Collection by L'Atelier Cologne (Cologne Absolute concentrated at 18%, 30 ml, 95 €; 100 ml, 165 €; 200 ml, 240 €), the only one not to associate it with the rose.

The Oriental Woodlands

They count singular perfumes like Olympéa de Paco Rabanne (Eau de parfum, 30 ml, 48 € ; 50 ml, 68 €, 80 ml, 88 €). Here again, by using a hydroponic jasmine (a soil-free crop that removes the animal facets of jasmine) with aquatic notes, much more airy than the absolute traditional jasmine, technology serves modernity. The vanilla itself is enriched with a"salty vanilla" accord, mixing calone (the sea spray scent) with salicylates (solar notes with a small"grain of salt"). The fragrance becomes that of a"fresh oriental". The evolution is then more greedy (caramel accord). The trail is woody and musky (sandalwood, cashmeran, patchouli, ambergris, musks).

In this category, we can also mention So Elixir Bois Sensuels by Yves Rocher (L'Eau de Parfum, 50 ml, 57 €) which focuses on patchouli, iris and vanilla.

As well as Gaïac Mystique from Atelier de Givenchy 2015 (Eau de parfum, 100 ml, 180 €), a delicious woody oriental with a balmy character and powdery notes (iris).

Spicy orientals

This family is Yves Saint Laurent's chosen land with Opium. Still as haunting, the sulphurous essence is adorned for the holidays with a new red lacquered case (Opium Collector Rouge Fatal, Eau de parfum, 50 ml, 89 €). The floral bouquet (jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, carnation), enhanced by myrrh and spices (cinnamon, chilli, pepper…), did not move. The bottom (benzoin, vanilla, opoponax, patchouli) is orientalissime !

As for the Caftan fragrance in Yves Saint Laurent's new Le Vestiaire des Parfums Collection (Eau de parfum, 125 ml, 240 €), it gleams its contemporary exoticism against a background of amber and incense, embroidered with benzoin, vanilla and pink pepper.

Soir d'Orient de Sisley (Eau de parfum, 50 ml, 126 € or 100 ml, 192 €) also belongs to this register. A sparkling flight (lemon, saffron accord, galbanum from Iran), a floral-spicy heart (black pepper, Turkish rose, Egyptian geranium), a mysterious woodsy trail (sandalwood accord, Somali incense, Indonesian patchouli)… take us into the disturbing atmosphere of an oriental palace.

Ariane Le Febvre