Traditionally devoted to men, the leather accord is becoming more feminine. Perfumery, both niche and luxury, rubs up against this mythical note with a strong personality. Fascinated by flowers, softened with musks or warmed up with spices, it becomes the new obsession of perfumers..;
A little history…
Leather is almost at the origin of French perfumery. A noble material par excellence, it refers to the original profession of perfumer, that of glovemaker. In France, the city of Grasse, famous for its tanneries, has developed its perfume expertise to mask the smell of tanned leather. That's how it became the perfume capital of the world. The leather accord gave birth to the legendary Russian leather, obtained with birch oil (the Cossack leather boots were tanned with burnt birch bark), sometimes accompanied by incense and juniper wood, as in the famous Russian Chanel Leather (collection Les Exclusifs, 75 ml, 130 €). Its fragrances can also be recreated by combining natural raw materials such as styrax, ciste-labdanum, agar oil, cassia, or synthetic materials such as Suderal (at IFF) or IBQ (Isobutyl quinoline)… Close to tobacco or"pyrogenic" notes (a burnt scent that evokes tar or a warm tire), this powerful and singular olfactory family has recently been confined to men's fragrances. It reappears today in majesty in luxury women's perfumery. In perfect coherence with saddlery brands like Hermès, or Haute Couture (Chanel, Dior, Givenchy…) which have leather goods lines, it becomes the new perfumed snobbery.
Less abrupt changes of direction
Less animal and tarred, today's leathery fragrances are easier to wear. The evolution of raw materials has given birth to new synthetic notes, more supple and downy, evoking velvety suede and weaving unique links with the skin, as in Cuir d'Ange d'Hermès (Hermessence collection, eau de toilette 100 ml, 185 €). Softened with musk, heliotrope and hawthorn, the leather becomes light and intimate. Same floral roundness (orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine), with chypre and caramelized facets, for Christian Dior's Cuir Cannage (La Collection Privée, eau de parfum 125 ml, 210 €), caressed with lipstick notes (pink and violet) and honeyed blond tobacco puffs. As for L'Atelier Givenchy's Cuir Blanc (eau de parfum 100 ml, 170 €), this neo-cuiré with a tactile grain could almost touch itself before being breathed in! Coated with white musks, this skin fragrance, carnal and tight as a sheath, has nothing androgynous about it! Even Lady Gaga's Eau de Gaga (eau de parfum from 29.90 € the 30 ml, at Sephora), has a spicy leathery tonality that changes us from fruity fragrances. girly !
The niche perfumery seizes it
For Clara Molloy, creator of Memo perfumes, who dedicated a whole collection to her (Cuirs Nomades)," l he leather palette is vast in perfumery. If p or some, it evokes a second skin, a protective shell , p or others, its sleek elegance is a model of refinement. L he leather fashion is sexy and modern. It offers an ambiguous seduction, which makes it possible to play on the male-female contrast ". French Leather (eau de parfum 75 ml, 168 €) is a fresh, floral leather that pays homage to the rose, combining strength and fragility. According to Alienor Massenet, IFF perfumer who signs all Memo juices," the leather immediately gives a strong colour that you must know how to handle with delicacy. For French Leather, we used suede leather that evokes the inside of a handbag. It brings an intimate atmosphere, an impression of promiscuity ". Vintage and subtle, The British Bouquet by Atkinsons (The Legendary Collection, eau de toilette 100 ml, 110 €, Printemps Haussmann) is a new tawny trail with woody and ambry inflections (gaïac, birch oil, ciste-labdanum, benzoin). It's the only mixed scent in our overview.
Ariane Le Febvre
