But what do they all have to want us"masked"? We only have one skin and days only have 24 hours, right? We're not getting up at night to make a mask! Yet that's what the brands would like, judging by the number of masks coming out at the beginning of this year… A real epidemic! Impossible to name them all: we have counted more than 100! Focus, therefore, on the most innovative or"trend". The face masks or eye contour were already very present in 2015, but 2016 really looks like the year of all masks ! More and more ritualized and sophisticated (selective obliges), some do not hesitate to exceed 300 euros!

In line with the sleepings packs

Night masks abound! While remaining punctual (once or twice a week), they replace night cream and aim at skin recovery, especially for 30/40 year-olds, an age group particularly affected by fatigue. Lancôme is the first to offer, in its premium anti-aging Absolue Precious Cells range, a Revitalizing Night Ritual Mask that contains a cold rose distillate (75 ml, 133 €). It relaunches one of the most complex mechanisms of skin biology, revitalization, by acting on the one hand on the vectors of inflammation and on the other hand on tissue repair. Shiseido launches in March, for thirties, Ibuki Rested Skin Night Mask (80 ml, 42 €), an express recovery cure for all nights too short. A"high adherence" gel texture (no possible transfer to the pillow!), rich in encapsulated vitamins and phytoplankton, with a relaxing violet scent. In the same vein, StriVectin's Intense Night Moisturizing Mask (90 ml, 65 €, at Sephora) should satisfy mature skin often disappointed by the lack of moisturizing anti-ageing care. Erborian's Sleeping BB Mask has been so successful that it comes out in mini format (15 ml, 12.90 €). Organic version, we can still quote Divinissime Immortelle Le Masque Chrono Nuit by Lift'Argan (50 ml, 24.90 €).

Truly original anti-aging masks

It is in this segment that we find the most innovations. After the cream masks (L'Oréal Paris, L'Occitane…) and the massage masks (Chanel, Shiseido…) released in 2015, here are the"double-sided" masks (cotton inside and thin layer of metal alloy outside) that we find very effective! Like a protective cocoon, they penetrate the active ingredients into the skin in 10 minutes, 25 times faster than a traditional cotton mask, according to the brand (Advanced Night Repair Mask Enveloping Repair Concentrate from Estée Lauder, pack of four masks, 103 €, mask unit 28 €, from April). Another 5 star Estée Lauder creation: Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Energizing Black Mask (50 ml, 330 €, sold with its ultra soft face brush, from March 7). A purifying and regenerating ritual in 2 steps. First, a revitalizing massage is performed using the"cashmere sensation" brush, inspired by the"dry brushing" ritual, to gently stimulate microcirculation. Then we apply the mask, a mixture of minerals and the most noble nutrients (bamboo charcoal, 24 carat gold, Black Diamond truffle extract, South Sea pearls…). As for the Dr. Brandt brand, from 15 February Sephora will be offering the 3D Mask Needles No More (50 ml, 95 €). Inspired by the last fillers medical to increase the volume of the face, this plumping mask fills wrinkles and hollow to redraw the contours, with great reinforcement of hyaluronic acid, regenerating peptides and complex resculptant. More affordable, Sculptwear Clinique Firming Smoothing Cream Mask (50 ml, 55 €) and Yves Rocher's Resculptant Wrinkles & Lifting Plant Serum Mask (spatula tube 40 ml, 30 €), whose fresh and sheathing texture envelops the face, neck and décolleté of a tightening mesh.

Seasonal masks

Bubbling under a duvet of cream, it is true that winter lends itself particularly well ! Here we find: - the cream of cream masks, such as Esthederm Nutritive System Nourishing Bath Cream Mask formulated with cellular water, gourmand at will with its delicious honey fragrance (75 ml, 40 €), - Annick Goutal's Splendid Face Mask with Rose (50 ml, 60 €), - Thalgo Cold Cream Marine Intense Nutrition Mask (50 ml, 27 €), - the new formula of Extreme Tolerance Sterile cosmetic mask of Avène (50 ml, 17,80 € ), - or Bobbi Brown Skin Nourish Mask (75 ml, 45 €). But spring, with its desire to make new skin and to drive out the greyness of winter, also encourages the gesture of the mask. Witness, this Spring Tea Mask from Cha Ling l'Esprit du Thé (100 ml, 250 €, at Bon Marché Rive Gauche), which integrates for the first time the anti-aging and antioxidant active ingredients of Pu'Er tea leaves from the Chinese province of Yunnan. The Glam Glow Illuminating Mask (50 ml, 49.90 €, at Sephora), or the highly hydrating aquagel texture of the Bamboo Waterlock Replumping Water Mask from Erborian, to use as a mask or facial treatment (100 ml, 42 €).

From masks to new generation clay

Unless you prefer to make"clean space" with these deep cleansing masks which are distinguished by the fact that their texture no longer dries. The case of Wonder Mud, an oxygenating mask resurfacing with Biotherm seaweed extract (78 ml, 50 €), a clay mask that causes no tightness. Or the new Baïja kaolin face mask (75 ml, 23.90 €) and Bobbi Brown Instant Detox mask (75 ml, 45 €). This clarifying mask based on white clay and Hawaiian sea water eliminates toxins, refines pores and nourishes the skin without removing its layers of natural protective oils. Natural grain exfoliating masks are always present, such as Bobbi Brown Radiance Boost Mask (75 ml, 45 €) with ultra-fine nut granules, or Kiehl's Cranberry Seed Energizing Radiance Mask, Radiance Mask, 75 ml, 34 €, in March. In the same brand, the anti-pollution mask with coriander seed oil and orange extract (Cilantro & Orange Extract Pollutant Defending Masque, 75 ml, 34 €, also in March) helps the skin to protect itself from the effects of pollution and strengthens the skin barrier. You can also opt for a peel-off mask filled with vitamins (Peel-Off Orange Oil and Vitamin C from Face Food, two sachets of 6 ml, 1.49 €, at Parashop and in pharmacies). Or prefer an enzymatic mask (especially in the air of the time) that eliminates dead cells without"scratching" the epidermis (Pumpkin Enzyme Mask by Peter Thomas Roth, 150 ml, 49.90 €, at Sephora).

Fabric patches or masks

Patches always answer the call, especially for the eye area. We thought they were a bit out of fashion, but the Patchness brand, distributed at Monoprix, puts them back in the spotlight. It offers no less than nine different patches, for the face, the eye contour (including a black collagen membrane for men), slimness, feet or after-sun ! Let's only remember here those for the face in biocellulose or silk, sold by unit (City Mask, Hydratense Mask or Caviar Mask, 12 € each), or the specific eye contour (Eye Patch Pink anti dark circles, ten patches, 14,90 € ; Eye Patch Gold, ten patches, 19,90 €, Eye Patch Black for men, ten patches, 14,90 €). The fabric masks, too, are still there at the beginning of this year, like those in Qiriness microfibre, sold individually (Wrap Coup d'éclat, Wrap Hyal-Aqua or Wrap Purifiant, each 3.90 €). But the palm goes to Sephora, which offers most of its single-dose Night Masks, classified by ingredient and texture (Comfort cream honey, Fresh jelly pomegranate, Non-fat jelly green tea, Rose melting gel-cream, Lotus fresh jelly, Lingzhi creamy, Fresh jelly ginseng, Pearl melting gel-cream, each 8 ml, 3.95 €) in fabric version (24 g, 3.95 €). Not to mention the five hand or lip masks launched in January (always at the unit price of 3.95 €).

Highlight of the Institute

Let's finish by doing justice to the world of the institute that inspired many of these creations, and for whom the mask stage has always been one of the key moments in cabin care. Among the latest innovations in this field, the Phytomer Heating Cleaning Mask (its thermal effect is due to volcanic rocks) seduces as much by its effectiveness as by its sensoriality. This super purifying pro product (its marine microsponges trap incrusted impurities and toxins), which massages with brushes, will be particularly appreciated at this time!

Ariane Le Febvre