Inspired by salon techniques, these formulas are available in mass distribution as well as in perfumery. Their main assets: the long life of the varnish (between 5 and 12 days), its gloss and its resistance to shocks. Zoom on the cosmetic news of the week by Ariane Le Febvre.
The shine of a semi-permanent varnish in the salon, but at home and without UV curing, you're tempted? To you the new gel formulas which do not require any lamp (therefore, no weakening of the nail which accompanies this polymerization reaction), nor tedious removal almost always using acetone based solvents (ProNails offers recently, in institute, a semi-permanent varnish - Sopolish Protect & Peel - which peels off like a peel-off), even less appointments in institutes. You can now benefit from their ultra-shiny colour and their hold (not quite equivalent to that of the pros, but still higher than that of a"lambda" varnish), by barely lifting a finger!
Thicker textures
Nitrocellulose (the main component of nail polish) is associated, in gel formulations, with various plasticizing agents (flexible resins, film-forming polymers, etc.) which create a resistant matrix, allowing the polish to"cling" to the nail and adhere to it for a long time without flaking. Some formulas, such as Dior's laminated glass technology, transform each coat of varnish into a smooth, glossy glass film. Others, like those of Models Own (English brand, exclusively at Monoprix) require only one application to perfectly"coat" the nails and can be removed simply by peeling off the varnish like an adhesive. Bonus: the thicker consistency of the gel helps to fill in streaks.
Top coat gel
In all logic since their function is to prolong the life of the varnish, it is the top coat which, first, benefited from the gel technology (Top Coat Gel Guerlain, 10 ml, 23,50 €; Nail Laque Terrybly Ultra-Glossy Top Coat Gel By Terry, 10 ml, 24 €; Top Coat Gel Look Vitry, 10 ml, 9,50 €). These protective shields, in addition to intensifying the hold, colour and shine of the varnish, offer a"false nail effect" and a slightly curved result (3D effect). Guerlain even proposes for night owls a Top Coat Ultra Violet Gel (10 ml, 23,50 €) whose originality is to make the nails fluorescent under the black lights of discotheques!
Colour varnishes with gel effect in perfumery
Dior has just launched its gel varnishes (Dior Vernis, 10 ml, 25 €, 21 shades). Enriched with organic silicon, the formula strengthens the nail surface. Made with 80% natural ingredients, it is free of phthalate, toluene, formaldehyde or synthetic camphor. The brand has designed a new brush that removes the ideal amount of varnish for uniform application. Choose from the summer colours: a solar coral (Aventure 551), a bubble gum pink (Wonderland 575), or a shocking pink (Bonheur N°661).
The"freeze" wave in mass distribution
It is in this circuit that the innovations are the most numerous. Bourjois was one of the first to offer, in 2012, a gel formula enriched with silicone that dries quickly (Varnish 1 Second gel formula, 9 ml, 9.99 €). Today it exists in 37 shades, including the red of the moment, a geranium red, slightly orange (N°10 Poppy Red).
Spring 2014 : L'Oréal Paris is launching Infaillible Vernis Gel Duo Longue Tenue (2 x 5 ml, 9.90 €, 12 shades). On one side a varnish containing high intensity pigments. On the other, a top coat gel with mirror shine that incorporates a combination of flex-resin™ silicones to fix the color and enhance its shine. The brand guarantees us"a result worthy of an institute manicure and an impeccable varnish for up to 12 days".
Gemey-Maybelline creates Tenue & Strong Pro Technology Gel Nail Polish (10 ml, 7.60 €). No less than 43 shades and a 7-day hold. This formula has a texture with"shape memory" (structure called thixotropic) which has the particularity to be modified at will. When shaken, it becomes thinner to better coat the nail. At rest, it solidifies and keeps the colour in suspension. Thanks to this astonishing property, varnishes offer a texture whose viscosity is perfectly adjusted to slide on the nail and ensure a perfect coating. The latest Megawatt collection pulsates colour and comes in 4 ultra-vitamin shades (Lime Me Up, granny smith green, Orange Punch, Pink Volt or Purple Surge). As for Models Own, its Varnish Hyper Gel Formula (14 ml, 5.99 €, 10 colours trendy including an opaque white), is the cheapest on the market.
Ariane Le Febvre
