Similar to gelled waters, these liquid moisturizers (not to be confused with skin care lotions) leave the sensation of fresh dew on the skin and are worth all day creams in summer. This cosmetic fashion, once again coming from Asia, is invading French facial skincare products intended for thirty-somethings.
There is no escaping this trend that Japanese and Korean women love.
As we know, the high humidity in their countries encourages them to seek these ultra-fluid and light"featherweight" moisturizers. And to escape the greasy substances that make the skin sweat in hot and humid climates.
French versions
French cosmetics brands (led by the L'Oréal group) have adapted them to France with one constant, however: almost all contain hyaluronic acid. Thus, Lancôme has just created a lotion that contains 24% moisturizing agents and replaces the day cream, an energizing and antioxidant cocktail based on melissa, goji berry and gentian (Energy of Life Smoothing Liquid Care & Glow Booster, 50 ml, 59 €).
With Aqua Source Everplump (50 ml, 47 €), Biotherm offers a melting moisturizer that provides immediate comfort.
Kiehl's offers a Moisturizing Mist with cactus flower and Tibetan ginseng (75 ml, 16 €) from June 6.
As for Dior, its new Hydra Life range, inspired by the"Yolo" philosophy ( You Only Live Once ), puts pleasure hydration back at the heart of the daily beauty ritual. Sleeping Masque Gelée (50 ml, 69 €) is a night gel that transforms into water on contact with the skin"for an 8H sleep complexion". It combines Dior mallow jelly (in its highest concentration), hyaluronic acid and a cocktail of active ingredients of natural origin targeting aquaporins. It does not require rinsing and is suitable for all skin types. The Water BB SPF 30 Aqua-Gel Tinted Beauty Immediate Moisturizer (30 ml, 54 €) is the first BB aqua-gel. As for the Réhydratants Réveil Beauté Masks packaged in 5 ml capsules to take with you everywhere (7 x 5 ml, 39.50 €), their ultra-fresh cream-gel texture water the epidermis throughout the night.
In pharmacy, Aqua Infini Galénic Water Booster Serum (30 ml, 45 €, from May) is a powerful moisturizer based on a rare active ingredient (rock flower), conveyed in an innovative galenic structure. The latter is composed of three"molecular sieves" the first, made up of the largest meshes, keeps the active ingredients of the largest molecular weight (hyaluronic acid and gel-forming polymers) on the surface of the skin the second, with intermediate meshes, keeps the active ingredients around the cells (vegetable glycerin, sugar derivatives) the third, with the finest meshes, brings rock flower extract (the smallest molecule) to the heart of the cells. Thanks to this structure, assets will be transported quickly to the right place. Water infusion" way, Vinosource Crème Sorbet Hydratante de Caudalie (40 ml, 20,70 €) quenches dehydrated sensitive skin.
The same goes for Hyaluro+ Intensive Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizing Serum Gel-Cream from Mixa Expert Sensitive Skin (50 ml, 7.80 €), because, yes, you can even find this type of texture in supermarkets.
And institutes with DR. Doctor Renaud (Gel Sorbet Fraîcheur Fraîcheur Soin Hydratant, 50 ml, 27,90 €).
Anti-pollution, anti-aging and even body variants
Decléor highlights the plant hydration of urban skin with its Hydra Floral range with essential oil of neroli, sea crist, wild thought and moringa oleifera seeds. There is an Anti-Pollution Moisturizing Care Water (100 ml, 50 €, from May), light as water, moisturizing as cream, an Anti-Pollution Moisturizing Fluid SPF 30 (50 ml, 50 €), as well as an Anti-Pollution Moisturizing Jelly (50 ml, 50 €), which also contains Centella Asiatica extract and micro-droplets of encapsulated essential oils.
So'Bio étic Precious Night Jelly Argan (40 ml, 11,70 €) is one of the rare anti-ageing variations which concentrates all the properties of argan (oil and ceramides) and aloe vera sap (much more difficult to formulate than aloe vera powder mainly used, because the sap is full of electrolytes, minerals…), in a gelled oil. A first in certified organic cosmetics (the texture literally melts on contact with the skin) that the brand has managed to obtain thanks to biotechnology.
The body is not forgotten. Biotherm proposes an Aqua-Body Jelly (200 ml, 21 €), exact during their facial treatment. We can certainly predict that there will be other products of this type by the summer of 2017!
A galenic present in certified organic cosmetics
After Melvita and its Extraordinary Waters (latest: Eau Extraordinaire Jeunesse, 100 ml, 19 €), it is Sanoflore's turn to launch Aqua Rosa Essence botanique de beauté fraîche (200 ml, 22 €, starting May 1st).
Anne-Marie Börlind uses vegetable hyaluronic acid from the spindle-shaped tremelle and a red seaweed extract in her Hydro-Booster Intensive Concentrate for skin lacking in hydration (15 ml, 39.90 €).
As for So'Bio étic, it has just released Aqua Energy Gel-Crème Dynamisant Oxygénant Jour, with boreal algae and water liposomes from glaciers (50 ml, 14.85 €).
Ariane Le Febvre
