Wednesday, March 31, 2021Congress reports

Solid cosmetics: regulatory points of vigilance

Cosmétique solide : les points de vigilance réglementaires

The concept is not strictly speaking new: one of the “oldest” cosmetic products, soap, has been in solid form since the dawn of time. But this trendy concept is now a growing market. Although it is not covered by the Cosmetics Regulation, its products must nevertheless meet its requirements. During the day dedicated to it at the U’cosmetics event on 18 March 2021, Stéphanie Garrel, COSMED’s Regulatory Affairs Officer, detailed the specific points applicable to cosmetic products in solid form.

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Regulationally speaking, a solid cosmetic product is first and foremost a cosmetic product, which must, like all others, comply with the principles and obligations of the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009, particularly in terms of safety and responsibilities.
But in practice, the solid form generates very specific issues, which are as many points of vigilance for marketers.

Product stability

A classic liquid shampoo is packaged in a way that minimises the formula’s contact with water, air and light. On the other hand, a solid shampoo has to be kept in special storage conditions: on the edge of the bathtub, in the humid environment and high temperature of the bathroom, frequently wet…
The manufacturer must therefore ensure that the stability and integrity of the product are adapted to these particular conditions of storage and use, and that they are maintained throughout its life, which is much longer than that of conventional products.

Microbiological safety

Under these particular conditions of storage and use, the risks of microbial contamination are a priori significant.
The anhydrous form of solid products can partly counterbalance this specificity as it is less conducive to microbial proliferation. The formula may also contain surfactants with antimicrobial properties.
However, the risk must …

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