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Thursday, January 8, 2009Congresses

Allergies to cosmetics - A report on the Paris, 2008 Conference on Dermatology

© L?Observatoire des Cosmétiques

The Paris Conference on Dermatology was held on mid-December. Coordinated by the French Society of Dermatology, they help the professionals to broaden their knowledge, thanks to the latest pieces of information. The last conference  dealt with the allergies to cosmetics.

Reading time
~ 14 minutes

During this conference, a three-lecture session was about the allergies to cosmetics. Current regulation, new allergens, management of patients, or management of the specific cases of hair cares or sunscreens creams: an occasion to learn more about troubles that draw more and more patients to meet dermatologists.

First part: Regulation and management

The European Regulation on cosmetics makes it mandatory to put on the labels the list of ingredients , with their INCI names, in descending concentration's order.
The allergic patient and his (her) M.D. shall learn to read in " INCI language ", and it is not always that easy … Underneath, some examples of this INCI language:

• Plants often come with their Latin name: Myroxilon Pereirae is the Peru balsam.
• The names of chemical ingredients are often almost incomprehensible: for instance, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde is nothing other than Lyral (an allergen recently added to the 2009 European Standard battery of tests).
Water comes as Aqua (while it is listed as Water in the CTFA nomenclature, which is applicable in the USA) …

Further, reading the list of ingredients once is not enough: the manufacturers may modify the formula (sometimes while keeping the same name and …

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