The Observatoire des Cosmétiques recently rightly focused on a very interesting class of ingredients, lipopeptides. In my opinion, it would be more accurate to say"deliver" rather than"put", as these ingredients are so remarkable. Indeed, they do have the properties described in this article, but many others. Born decades ago, they have never really found the echo that suits their performances.
In Europe, and in France in particular, it was Jean Morelle who made the first progress. Besides his work on thio acid derivatives, this curious and eclectic chemist will propose a series of ingredients based on the combination of a protein derivative and a fatty acid. He will give them the name Lipacid.
These ingredients are the result of a chemical reaction, acylation, which is well known to chemists but not widely used. This reaction consists in reacting an acid chloride with an amino function to form a very solid and robust covalent bond, protecting the carboxyl function of the amino derivative.
The conditions of realization are quite drastic, which means that few manufacturers will be interested in these derivatives. The intellectual property situation will also make things difficult. Jean Morelle, holder of numerous patents, will long reserve the right to entrust the use of these ingredients to a few selected companies through an initiatory process that the oldest may remember.
The performance of these derivatives is multiple.
In acid form, therefore not neutralized, they are practically insoluble in water, which makes their use delicate. But they allow a better availability of the functional molecules associated with them, which the …
